A/C removal question

[ConeKilrAutoX]

Hello all,
tomorrow I am planning on removing the A/C lines and the accumulator to make more room in the engine bay. I have no need for A/C...thats why someone invented power windows
I have had it discharged when my condenser failed last year, but the questions I have are:

- can I remove the A/C lines and accumulator and leave the A/C compressor in?

- will I still have the ability to use heat?

- Is there any risk ?

- Which lines can I remove ? I primarily want to remove the line that goes up and over the front of the engine.

THANK YOU I appreciate the help

 

[meerschm]

your windows will fog up more easily without the A/C drying the air in the winter. (more of an issue in cold rain and wet snow conditions, esp if you track snow inside, or let it blow in the open window )


If you disconnect the wire to the A/C clutch ( or pull the fuse) it seems to me like you should be ok to leave the compressor in and maintain belt routing. you don't want to try to spin the compressor too long without the lines attached. I would pull the fuse first to see if you get a CEL to deal with. in fact, my recommendation would be to pull the fuse and wait for a snowstorm or two to see if you like it without the A/C (unless it has not worked for a winter)

Heat should be ok, as far as I know.

 

[C-ya]

Heat will be fine as it a separate system. I spun a compressor for a couple thousand miles with no pressure in it. I did put the oil in it, but with no clutch engagement, it probably wasn't necessary. I found out there was a spacer pulley to continue using the A/C belt, or you could check the routing for a non-A/C system to see if you can just get the shorter, non-A/C belt. Since it was (probably?) standard on all these vehicles, there may not be a non-A/C belt. My experience was on a SBC with a serpentine drive system in my '97 Isuzu Hombre. I never hooked the A/C up, but I left everything there in case I wanted to.

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

oh ok. yes last winder i did not have the ac on ever either. I might do this later in the week so I can think it over but I will try pulling the fuse and see what happens today. I might look into a belt that bypasses the ac also. thanks for the help!

 

[jimmyjam]

The pressure switch should keep the compressor from switching on, pull the fuse or wire will guarantee it.

last compressor I bought came with rubber plugs for the lo/hi side connections on the compressor. may want to figure out a way to plug those up as to not contaminate the compressor. i guess if its got a bad seal it needs a rebuild anyway so...

you can remove all the refrigerant lines, from the firewall (evaporator), dryer, condenser, compressor. I drove around with the compressor unplugged for a few months, never noticed any issues

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

The pressure switch should keep the compressor from switching on, pull the fuse or wire will guarantee it.

last compressor I bought came with rubber plugs for the lo/hi side connections on the compressor. may want to figure out a way to plug those up as to not contaminate the compressor. i guess if its got a bad seal it needs a rebuild anyway so...

you can remove all the refrigerant lines, from the firewall (evaporator), dryer, condenser, compressor. I drove around with the compressor unplugged for a few months, never noticed any issues

thank you maybe I will start taking it apart today

 

[The_Roadie]

There is indeed a shorter AC bypass belt - 70.5"

View attachment 25480

 

[ConeKilrAutoX]

There is indeed a shorter AC bypass belt - 70.5"

View attachment 11247

great information thank you roadie! I assume this would be ok to use long term and with my plans for the turbo in the spring? (I dont need or want the a/c any way) I just didnt know if you or anyone thought the short belt would cause any issues?