Help all new to the trailblazer and need so help so I had to use the 4x4 the tb was stuck in snow drift it put it in 4 high and no help it is as if the front wheels would not engage I had my wife get out and the front wheels were not spinning just one back tire was spinning tried awd and 4lo same thing so after getting pulled out I started testing the system it seems the front wheels will not engage from a standstill but if I drive 20 or so feet they will lock in now when it does lock in all is good until I turn you can tell it is locked in and starting to bind then the front end kicks out of 4x4 until I stop turning then after 20 or so feet same thing locked in till turning when front starts to bind wham it kicks out? Any help would be great thanks
4x4 problem
- Thread starter chevman
- Start date
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
chevman said:
Your front axle disconnect may be going out, or the clutches in your transfer case are done for.
When you purchased the vehicle was it in A4WD, or do you use A4WD, by chance?
Try going through the troubleshooting flowchart I've posted below and let us know how the results come out. If we can single out at least one single part of the system it'd save you some time, and more importantly a decent chunk of money.
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Ok going out to the garage now to do the test in the flow chart I bought the truck off my parents last year and my dad said he only used the 4x4 a few times I have also used the 4x4 auto a few times I know the truck was well taken care of since my parents bought it new and they are in there 70s and take care of there vehicles and it is fairly low mileage for a 2005. I will update after I do the test off the flow chart u provided. Thanks steve
The truck just turned 54000 miles only fluids they said they have changed is oil every 3000 miles thanks
Ok so I done the test in the flow chart and it shows the problem is in the 4x4 disconnect now I know nothing about the disconnect is this an easy fix? Thanks for the help
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
chevman said:
It's not quite a "change your oil" job, and not a "removing cylinder head" job. I suppose it could be considered middle-road. There's a bunch of threads around here talking about the actuator. Some people have disassembled theirs, bought the part(s) they needed and successfully rebuilt the unit. Others end up placing in a brand new unit, which runs $300 or so. ATP and Dorman both have replacement actuators, sans actuator. Since it appears that your actuator is working okay (you didn't get a service 4x4 light at any time right? Just the symptoms you mentioned in the first post?) you can probably get away with getting a new disconnect unit without the actuator, and reuse your old one. Let me know if you need links.
The list of tools includes:
-Stuff to remove your tire. The tire iron in the standard tire change kit provided with the truck will do just fine, you could use an impact wrench or something if you've got the means, ends up saving time.
-18mm and I believe 13mm sockets to remove the brake assembly.
-35mm (stock) or 36mm (aftermarket) axle nut socket. You can use a 36 on the stock 35, it shouldn't hurt anything.
-Assorted other sockets and wrenches, can't remember the rest of the sizes.
-A pry bar just in case the actuator is stuck on good. In this case, removing the oil pan skid plate will allow much easier access.
-Torque wrench. Pretty well mandatory to make sure everything's as tight as it needs to be.
The video I've posted below may help a bit, but it doesn't appear to have a whole lot of action shots, which can be valuable sometimes. There's a ton of members who've had their disconnects off, sometimes more than once, who could give you a lot more first-hand experience than myself. I've also found an article on here, it's listed as how to replace the CV shaft, but includes removing the front axle disconnect. GMTNation - How To: Replace Passenger CV Shaft with pictures
On the issue of fluids, since you're going to be wrenching anyways you should consider changing transfer case fluid. It's due every 50,000 miles and most people's experience on here is that the service interval is non-negotiable if you want it to stay working. You'll need two bottles of Autotrac II fluid, which can be gotten at the dealer or through Summit Auto Racing (Summit lists it at $7-8/bottle), and a 10mm hex key socket. A large allen wrench could be used, but a socket is better since you can use a torque wrench. Remove the fill plug before the drain plug to ensure that it comes off okay before you go draining the fluid out. Use a pump of some sort to get the new fluid in.
And most of us don't recommend using A4WD, instead skipping the option entirely. Stick to 2HI for regular scenarios, or 4HI or 4LO for all other scenarios. The way A4WD operates accelerates wear on internal components in the transfer case (specifically, the clutch pack) and a new transfer case (brand new, not junkyard) is $1500. In the end it's your vehicle and you're free to use it how you'd like, this is just our hearty recommendation from many people who've seen what it does to the system.
[video=youtube;p9kRAJRcxW0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9kRAJRcxW0[/video]
Thanks for all the info and tips I will stop at the dealership tommorow and order the disconnect and get the tc fluid to change again thanks for the help.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
chevman said:
No problem. If your actuator (the motor and gear reduction system that operates the disconnect) is in good working order, make sure you get just the disconnect and not the disconnect + actuator. Can save you a number in the 3-digit range.
A lot of people around here use Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease (the red stuff) for packing their disconnects. I'm not sure if new units come greased or not.
ok so I will be picking up the new disconnect tomorrow looks like an easy enough job. I did change the tc fluid and it only had 1.5 qt in there I put 2 qt back in I don't see any leaks does the just vanish or under fill from the factory? would this of hurt anything driving it low on fluid? the old fluid was a dark blue the new fluid was a lot lighter blue so it was time to change it thanks for the heads up on changing it.
Eeeek.chevman said:
There's a way to overpay, unless you have a dealer that gives you a fair price like $400-500.Yes you are correct It was pricey for a used part it cost me 275.00 they said they could not order it new anymore so they found one with 44xxx on it I just hope that for that much money it has no problems! They are giving me a six mo warranty on it
GM's inability to support the platform with new parts whose design was fatally flawed, has spawned aftermarket vendors. You can get new ones for just a bit more than that. Just not from the dealer.
in your opinion should I just go with the aftermarket one for a bit more$$ or stay with the used one with 44xxx miles? thanks
You're going to have to pull the used one apart and inspect everything and I would replace the outer seal at the very least anyway, plus repack it with Mobil synthetic grease like the How-To Tech document on ORTB shows. Assume you've read that tear-down document so you know what the inside looks like?
I am looking for a transfer case for a coworker he has an 2004 tb are there any advantages/disadvantages on the year of tb it comes from? thanks
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
chevman said:
Here's some links!
http://www.amazon.com/ATP-111001-Front-Axle-Disconnect/dp/B004QBZPS6 A bit over $300 (List price of over $1000 is a humongous load of crap, you can get an entire new transfer case for $1500 and it's more than a bit more complicated than this part, I think they did that to make it look like you're getting mega-savings)
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-600-115-4WD-Actuator-Housing/dp/B00A6RKTMG Also a little over $300
I'm not sure that any brand has a better track record than the other, ask around and maybe someone would know.
Offroadtb.com Front Axle 4WD Disconnect Front Axle Disconnect teardown and theory of operation.
chevman said:
I remember someone saying after a certain year they changed some bearings or something inside to provide more durability. 2006 and up maybe? I'll see if I can dig up where I saw that and try verifying it.
got the new disconnect today thanks amazon prime!! put it on and works like new!! the part was so much easier to install than I thought it would be the old unit did not look bad to me just a little dirty grease but the new one took care of the problem is there much of a market for the old disconnect had 54xxx miles on it? thanks for the help
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
chevman said:
Depends on what's broken inside. I bet if the shift fork's still good someone would take that off your hands, easy.
Did you go OEM, or use a Dorman or ATP part? I'd like to hear a bit down the line how it's working out for you so far. I'm curious as to if the aftermarket units meet or exceed the reliability of the OEM (which isn't hard, the OEM was pretty crap).
went with the doorman unit I will update the progress of the unit also selling the old one if anyone is interested I will take 100.00+shipping for it looks as if only the bearings need replaced thanks steve