My disconnect in my 03 trailblazer is on its way out. I know the popular remedy is to install the sleve from awd units. Instead of rebuilding can I install the awd disconnect from the bravada, rainer?
4wd Splined Disconnect Compatibility
- Thread starter c0a8l0v6i8n9
- Start date
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
GM part number 12471636.
http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=4596
Check it out. Try a few searches along the way. If your disconnect is not too chewed up, you may get away with grease and the sleeve.
http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=4596
Check it out. Try a few searches along the way. If your disconnect is not too chewed up, you may get away with grease and the sleeve.
I know my outer bearing is on its way out the cv has some play where it enters the disco. I'm trying to avoid the rebuild and just replace the whole unit. I searched but couldn't find anyone that used the disco from an awd vehicle.
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
Buy an ATP disconnect off the net, got mine from ebay, and order the part. Or pay a grand to have someone do it.
Edit: Were you able to find a disconnect for a Rainier or Bravada?
Edit: Were you able to find a disconnect for a Rainier or Bravada?
Playsinsnow said:
I'm sorry maybe I'm not making myself clear.
ATP makes two disconnects for our platforms.
111001 for the trailblazer
111002 for the bravada and rainier
Can I use the 111002 in my trailblazer which already has the awd component installed already.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
c0a8l0v6i8n9 said:
The disco are interchangable...SS, TB, Voy, Rainier, Bravada, 9-7, all the same but for the guts.
c0a8l0v6i8n9 said:
I found the ATP on amazon to be the cheapest @320, but they are out of stock. I ordered one and will rebuild the one I am removing.
They sell both units
Good luck
To be clear, you want to keep it electrically connected and tucked out of the way. Just not bolted in.
Ok removed mostly everything but I ran out of daylight. Tomorrow I have to remove the half of the disconnect that it stuck to the oil pan.
I'm going to drop the skid plate and try to chisel it off of the oil pan.
I'm going to drop the skid plate and try to chisel it off of the oil pan.
Rs8892 said:
Amazon was selling a "used" unit that was describe like new with some surface scratches. It was $215 but had a $20 gift card. On arrival it just looks like a return that wasn't even installed.
Looks like they still have one in stock still if anyone is interested shows a price of $189.
tbyoda
Member
- Apr 19, 2013
- 187
That's a good deal. Now that you are going have spare you should do the awd mod also. See http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech-docs/front-axle-4wd-disconnect/c0a8l0v6i8n9 said:
Darkrider_LS
Member
- Jan 25, 2013
- 9,332
So by installing this disconnect set up you are essentially converting the front end to the AWD set up correct?
Darkrider_LS said:
Correct. The front shafts will be locked together just like the Bravada. Power to the front wheels will only occur when I shift to A4WD (When demanded), 4HI, and 4LO.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
As I figured the housing broke off in the oil pan. Had to drill relief holes in the housing and chisel out the remains.
I zip tied the actuator to the frame so I get no service 4x4 light.
My recommendation is to leave the inner housing attached to the truck and just swap over the internals. Pics to follow.
I zip tied the actuator to the frame so I get no service 4x4 light.
My recommendation is to leave the inner housing attached to the truck and just swap over the internals. Pics to follow.
You say that so calmly and sound like you cleared it out competently and quickly.c0a8l0v6i8n9 said:
You'd be astonished how many folks come in here or trailvoy all crybaby when that happens, like it's the end of the world and they're going to have to replace their ENTIRE oil pan or pay a mechanic $1400 to get it out. 
tblazerdude
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 321
c0a8l0v6i8n9 said:
haha yes leaving that inner housing may be the way to go. But while trying to remove mine, it broke in multiple pieces. Fairly quickly. I would recomend you keep both sides bolted together while trying to remove. Either way, letting something defeat me wasn't going to happen. The only thing I have done more frustrating, was remove spark plug threads from a LT1 block. Just the threads, that were seized in.
Hatchet said:
Yea it's hard to see from the picture but it's actually a rubber plug.
I can pull it out and add grease into the unit.
View attachment 31519
Attachments
Well, for that type of money, instead of replacing my front axle actuator, I think this is what I am going to do. Interesting to see its that easy.