4WD screw up

NJTB

Original poster
Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
Well, I did it this time. Before I took it apart, I knew the axle disconnect had a broken shift fork. The good news is, that was correct (thank you all here). The bad news is when I was removing it, it was stuck so bad I broke it.
As far a breaks go, this one is beautiful. When I first tried to get it off with gentle hammering and it was a no go, I took the front case half of the axle disconnect off, still no go. The rear case half (axle disconnect) thats bolted to the oil pan has a clean break all the way around, and I don't see any way to get the broken part out without damaging something else.
None of the bolt bosses are damaged, and I can assemble it then put it on.
Soooo, my plan is to rebuild the disconnect and try some gasket maker on the broken part. Wish me luck.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Most people who do that need to drill little holes all around the seized-in part, being wicked careful to not nick the oil pan. Then careful chiseling. And put the replacement back in with anti-seize.
 

NJTB

Original poster
Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
Yes, the proximity of the oil pan is what's stopping me. The decision came down to 'do I take a chance on screwing up the oil pan, or chance a backyard repair'? I went with the gasket maker solely because I don't want to remove the oil pan. This break is so good I can't tell where the oil pan starts and the disconnect ends.
I did have thoughts of taking a chisel and working it around the outside of the break, but can't tell where to chisel. How seized up can this thing be?
Thanks for the tip on the screws. I'll keep it in mind.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Corroded aluminum to aluminum in a salt using state can be pretty darn stuck. I meant to use anti-seize on the HOUSING when you put the replacement back in there. I have every confidence that this won't be a permanent repair. But it may work for a year.
 

NJTB

Original poster
Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
I understand. Right now there's a ton of snow and I'm working in an unheated garage, and unfortunately need the car. I'll probably wait until the spring, take a few days vacation, buy a new disconnect, hopefully not screw up the oil pan, and fix it properly.
You may be generous with the year long repair, it's what I'm hoping for.
 

Gix1k4

Member
Feb 9, 2014
9
NJTB said:
I understand. Right now there's a ton of snow and I'm working in an unheated garage, and unfortunately need the car. I'll probably wait until the spring, take a few days vacation, buy a new disconnect, hopefully not screw up the oil pan, and fix it properly.
You may be generous with the year long repair, it's what I'm hoping for.

I'm thinking that "JB Weld" or some other form of "liquid metal" might be a better choice than RTV. Hope it works out for you though, they are a pain in the rear to remove. I broke one and then decided to use a MAP gas torch on the next one. I was replacing the seals and bearings anyway, so heat damage wasn't much of a concern.
 

NJTB

Original poster
Member
Aug 27, 2012
612
Flemington, NJ
Gix1k4 said:
I'm thinking that "JB Weld" or some other form of "liquid metal" might be a better choice than RTV. Hope it works out for you though, they are a pain in the rear to remove. I broke one and then decided to use a MAP gas torch on the next one. I was replacing the seals and bearings anyway, so heat damage wasn't much of a concern.


Yes, it did work out, passed it's 10 mile road test without tearing anything out of the front end. I found a snow/ice covered road and went through all the 4wd positions.
Like I said, I needed the car and was a bit desperate, hence the poor fix.
When the weather gets warmer, I'll take it apart and repair it properly. Right now it only has to work to get me up the driveway in a house I own in PA.
I read another post with pictures of the same problem. This guy used Roadies fix with drilling small holes and then chiseling it out, There was a PILE of aluminum shavings on the floor in the pic. My problem is I can't really tell where the oil pan starts and the disconnect begins, and don't want to drill into the pan.
Another thing-after doing this job for the first time and taking out the ABS wire, caliper, stab. link, etc., I may just pull the whole spindle out next time. When I'm in there I'll decide if it's more or less work.
 

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