I'm going to be hooking up a small sub in my son's '04 Envoy and trying to find the Bose amp wiring diagram to tie into the front door speaker pre-amp wires. I have done lots of searches on multiple sites and have found the 2005 (LUX version) but nothing for my '04 (non-LUX version). Any input is appreciated.
2004 Bose amp wiring diagram needed
- Thread starter Guenther
- Start date
Guenther said:
They sure are, shame on me for not previewing the post.
These are the front low level outs from the radio to the amp.
+left - tan
-left - dark green
+right - light green
-right - orange/black
These are the outputs from the amp to the front doors (after being eq'd).
+left - tan
- left - gray
+ right - light green
- right - dark green
I haven't done this myself but I've heard all kinds of opinions on which way works best. The majority says that the outputs from the amp to the front doors are preferred for subwoofers.
Guenther said:MAY03LT, thanks for the diagrams and thanks for all the maintenance videos you've done. Pink Floyd would be proud of your singing too
You're welcome!
Nice timing fellas. My buddy wants me to help him install some subs in his stock Voy w/Bose, this is just the info I was about to search for. 
I got it all wired up in anticipation of the amped sub coming and I'm a little corn-fused. Listed you have the post-amp as:
+left - tan
- left - gray
+ right - light green
- right - dark green
I did not have a gray wire but an orange/black instead in the bundle of front wires so it wasn't like the diagram above nor like the 2005 lux version. I'm hoping I'm good to go but until the amped sub gets here I won't know. I did some searching and it looks like GM used my 2004 amp (#15112641) for only a few months and then went to the non-lux. I used the rear fuse panel for power since it's only 150W max and a ground on the rear seats. Finding the trigger is the hard part I think. I tied into the radio fuse but I don't know if that will work because I think I read that it wouldn't power on others because it is a pulse signal. I can't see anything that will give power in the ACC and only in the RUN. There is the fuse for the Bose amp but I don't want to overload that circuit. I'm not sure where to tie into
+left - tan
- left - gray
+ right - light green
- right - dark green
I did not have a gray wire but an orange/black instead in the bundle of front wires so it wasn't like the diagram above nor like the 2005 lux version. I'm hoping I'm good to go but until the amped sub gets here I won't know. I did some searching and it looks like GM used my 2004 amp (#15112641) for only a few months and then went to the non-lux. I used the rear fuse panel for power since it's only 150W max and a ground on the rear seats. Finding the trigger is the hard part I think. I tied into the radio fuse but I don't know if that will work because I think I read that it wouldn't power on others because it is a pulse signal. I can't see anything that will give power in the ACC and only in the RUN. There is the fuse for the Bose amp but I don't want to overload that circuit. I'm not sure where to tie into
The remote signal just triggers the relay in the amp to draw power from the main source. It's not drawing enough to overload anything. 
Where to find switched power:
If you go to the ignition switch:
RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:
White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START
RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:
Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START
If you go after the fuse block path, using an add-a-fuse gadget:
On in RUN/ACCY modes only:
rear fuse #29 - Rain sensor (rare option) 10A
rear #33 - front wiper motor - 25A
rear #31 - TBC ACC - 3A
ACCY, RUN, and START:
rear fuses 47 (IGN 0)
50 (TBC IG)
RUN only mode:
front fuses 22 (IGN E)
16 (TBC IGN 1)
27 (BACKUP)
28 (PCM 1)
54 (AIR SOL)
53 (O2 A
54 (O2 B)
26 (ENG 1)
Plus some fuses that are fed by RAP that I haven't documented yet.
If you go to the ignition switch:
RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:
White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START
RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:
Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START
If you go after the fuse block path, using an add-a-fuse gadget:
On in RUN/ACCY modes only:
rear fuse #29 - Rain sensor (rare option) 10A
rear #33 - front wiper motor - 25A
rear #31 - TBC ACC - 3A
ACCY, RUN, and START:
rear fuses 47 (IGN 0)
50 (TBC IG)
RUN only mode:
front fuses 22 (IGN E)
16 (TBC IGN 1)
27 (BACKUP)
28 (PCM 1)
54 (AIR SOL)
53 (O2 A
54 (O2 B)
26 (ENG 1)
Plus some fuses that are fed by RAP that I haven't documented yet.
Guenther said:
I compared the original diagram posted with one from an 04 and they are identical.
What they are showing is in the amps 24 pin connector, one row has 4 empty cavities followed by Tan and then Gray. Those are the LF outputs from the amp. The two next to them, light green then dark green, are for the RF outputs. The other row has every cavity filled, including the nearly identically-colored input wires, again all next to each other (org/black, light green, dark green, tan).
If your 24 pin does not have the wires oriented that way, let me know what is different and I'll see what I can find.
Black LT
Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2011
- Posts
- 211
Guenther said:
Nah, his UQA diagram matches mine, which I went and compared to all 03-07s with UQA.
I used your pics to compare to the amp pinouts, and low and behold, buried in the amp connector section, they have separate class2/non class 2 pinouts (at least in the 04 manual, I didn't check the rest).
In yours, which is class 2, the front door speaker outs are in the 8 pin connector that you posted, and the wire colors are the same that I posted earlier.
edit: now looking back it's obvious that the front door outputs are in C2. The pinout that I used for double checking was for C1 (non class2) and since everything "was there" it didn't raise a red flag.
Guenther said:GM can lick my butt with all the changes they make. Time for me to do some rewiring tomorrow but no big deal I guess. Thanks for all the help fellas!
Yeah, and classifying multiple audio systems under a single RPO code doesn't make our job any easier.
Thanks for posting the pics btw.
Got the Kenwood KSC-SW10 installed using the revised wiring. I put it in the rear cubby area so it's totally out of the way and you don't know it's even there. It's a small flat amped/sub and adds enough bass to make the Bose system tolerable. I'm pleased with the way it turned out and thanks for all the help.
Phantom
Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2012
- Posts
- 277
MAY03LT said:They sure are, shame on me for not previewing the post.
These are the front low level outs from the radio to the amp.
+left - tan
-left - dark green
+right - light green
-right - orange/black
These are the outputs from the amp to the front doors (after being eq'd).
+left - tan
- left - gray
+ right - light green
- right - dark green
I haven't done this myself but I've heard all kinds of opinions on which way works best. The majority says that the outputs from the amp to the front doors are preferred for subwoofers.
You're welcome!
Thanks for this. I had issues with My wifes voy a while ago.. What i used was the scosche Fai-3a. and I installed it behind the HU. well it wouldn't turn up or down with the volume, just a set volume. Was driving me crazy, just didn't really want to take it all apart and install it post amp.. Well today I finally did. Followed the wiring that you gave here and noticed that it wasn't as loud as it was. then i unplugged one of the rca cables and it got as loud as it was before. Plugged it back in and it wasn't as loud. I got lucky and happen to make sure the connections were tight on the scosche unit and i could pull the right neg wire out. when i did that it got loud again. so i switched the right neg. with the right pos. and it worked. Now then i went and checked the wires and the right wires are backwards on our truck the right pos is dark green and the right neg is light green or I just happened to get a F**ked up scosche unit and it was backwards on their part. Either way it works and sounds really good for just one twelve. I just figured that I would share what happened to me just in case anyone else has issues like this and they can have something to try.
Martinez_LJC
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- Jul 30, 2013
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- 3
MAY03LT said:These are for an 03 with premium audio. Since you specifically mentioned the front door speakers it sounds like you already know why folks recommend using them. So I included the amp output diagram as well.
can you tell me the color for the rear low level inputs? i am trying to wire up a auxiliary input directly. cant tell what it says on your diagram,too blurry.
i'm hoping to get better quality than an fm-modulator and dont want to buy the expensive harness.
The schematics you linked to don't have that connection sheet anyway. Did you not find what you need in posts 5 or 12?Martinez_LJC said:
Martinez_LJC
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- Jul 30, 2013
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the roadie said:
No only MAY03LT's first sheet has the rear low level signals,towards the right side of the sheet. I'm just not able to read the color of the leads.
Black LTs schematic has clear letters but only has front signals on his sheet.
Ahhhhhh, sorry. I get it now. You haven't shared what year you have, but in my '04 schematics, there are two versions. The Class 2 amp does the front/rear fading by way of a data link command, so there are no separate front/rear low level signals going to the Bose power amp. And the colors are given in post 5.
If you have the non-Class 2 amp, then the rear low level signals are:
Left + BN/WH
Left - D-GN/WH
Right + D-BU
Right - BK
If you have the non-Class 2 amp, then the rear low level signals are:
Left + BN/WH
Left - D-GN/WH
Right + D-BU
Right - BK
Martinez_LJC
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the roadie said:
My bad its for an 03 envoy.my harness is identical to the images Guenther posted. the wires you wrote down arent on any harness as you can see on his pics
would it be a different diagram?