'06 Envoy 4.2: Crank but will not start

[mlkmgr]

I am looking at a co-workers 2006 Envoy XL SLT 4.2.

He filled up with gas on Wednesday and before he could get home, the truck stalled and would not start again. He pushed it into his driveway and it fired up but quickly stalled again. After this it would not start again, only crank.

I looked at it today and he mentioned the gas gauge has not been working and still continues not to. It started up and ran for about 5 seconds but it was sputtering and then died. Tried again and it fired but immediately died and then would only crank again after.

I ran a code scanner and came up with current codes of P0014 and P0463 with a couple pending but cannot retrieve anymore (i don't know why??) but they appeared to be bank 1 sensor 1/2 or something along those lines but they are not showing anymore.

Now neither of these current codes should prevent the truck from running correct?

I swapped the VVT Solenoid (CPAS) with an AC Delco part and vehicle would still not start.

I checked at the schrader valve and there was fuel spray as he turned the key for me. I did not have my pressure gauge with me at the time and am uncertain of what the pressure should be when the pump primes vs cranking vs engine running.

Oil changed a couple months ago although he is not sure on mileage but typically drives the car less than 200 miles per week (work and local driving only).

**edit: zero issues other than the non-working gas gauge prior to Wednesday.

Any thoughts on where to go from here??

 

[BlazingTrails]

There are a lot of things that can keep the engine from running. Not much to go on here?

Did you try resetting the codes?
I would check all of the fuses with a meter first.
It could be the cam sensor, possibly a loose ground. Also could be something to do with the throttle body/electronic throttle control.

Will it stay running if you press the accelerator?

Did his battery go dead?

 

[mlkmgr]

I just reset the codes. now there are no codes registering at all while key in on position or while cranking (still no start).

Battery is not dead yet but draining. will throw on charger overnight and follow up with fuse testing in the morning.

Did just receive P1682 but wasn't sure if that was due to voltage drop.

Thanks!

 

[gmcman]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-tCIRJH9p0&feature=kp

 

[gmcman]

Sorry but I missed the first sentence of the opening post.

Anyway....did your friend fill it with diesel?

This happens ALOT and since the nozzles are the same size now it's very easy to do.

 

[mlkmgr]

Got it to turn over for a about 10 seconds n then it died. Smelling like gas pretty bad n then received codes P0135 n P0141.

See they are both O2 sensor related but I thought truck bypasses O2's during start up?

He stated no onthe diesel.

 

[RayGumm]

This sounds spookily like what my truck is doing, except it never died while driving, and I have intermittently been able to start and drive, but this honeymoon phase of my issue seems to be over.

I have a thread here on it too if you want to look at what other people have suggested for my problem.

http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/11000-intermittent-crank-and-no-start/

 

[IllogicTC]

Both of those codes are for the O2 heaters. The heaters are started up on a cold start to bring them up to operating temperature more quickly in order to make the switch to closed loop more quickly.

Along with the fan performance, camshaft code, and a possible drain, I'd call a definite electrical gremlin. P1682 states Powertrain Control Module fault, I'm not sure if there's an actual fault or something due to the gremlin. Perhaps check into Relay 57 in the underhood fuse block. It supplies power to IGN 1 VOLT at the PCM, the heaters for the O2 sensors, and the MAF sensor. If there's another relay with the same part number, you can swap them around to see if any difference is made.

If the relay checks out good, check the yellow wire C10 on connector C2 on the underhood block to see if it receives a ground (to complete the circuit on the control side of the relay) when the switch is in RUN. It should.

Also check fuses 29 and 23 (both 10A fuses) in the underhood block to make sure they're good, they are the next step after the relay.

 

[mlkmgr]

Relay - no difference. Fuses looked good. Working from my cell phone so I apologize for asking questions I could typivally search for but where is connector C2?

 

[mlkmgr]

Ok. Zero pressure at the fuel rail now and am getting code P0230 and P0463 (again). Had about ~56 psi earlier although still wouldnt start up.

 

[mlkmgr]

Friend has a solus pro scan tool but when checking relays, put the fuel pump relay in wrong location so that was explanation of P0230.

Question: will we hear the fuel pump prime every time the key is turned to 'on'position? Hear it once in about every 10 key to 'on' turns but not all the time.

 

[gmcman]

Double check the fuel from test port that it evaporates on contact and doesn't feel oily. I know you said your buddy didn't put diesel in but it's just the same story my buddies wife told us. I'm only saying this because it's very coincidental.

Also, did the vehicle sit for a long time without being driven?

 

[mlkmgr]

Vehicle was driven daily to and from work. I will double check the fuel at the port to be safe.

Spark plug tips are black and gaps on 2 I checked were both about .047 or so. Not sure if this is directly related but going to change them tonight regardless with AC Delco replacements.

He wants me to replace the fuel pump but I am apprehensive about replacing it when it cannot be 100% certain that is the issue. Buddy with solus scanner believes it is the fuel pump.

How long should pressure hold in fuel rail after trying to start?

 

[dmanns67]

Vehicle was driven daily to and from work. I will double check the fuel at the port to be safe.

Spark plug tips are black and gaps on 2 I checked were both about .047 or so. Not sure if this is directly related but going to change them tonight regardless with AC Delco replacements.

He wants me to replace the fuel pump but I am apprehensive about replacing it when it cannot be 100% certain that is the issue. Buddy with solus scanner believes it is the fuel pump.

How long should pressure hold in fuel rail after trying to start?

There is another member who had the same issue this week with his 2006 TB. He took it to a shop and found a, "Flaky/loose connection on underside of fuse block underneath the #41 relay-fuel pump relay."

That resolved his issue. Not sure if you seen the thread or not.

 

[gmcman]

How long should pressure hold in fuel rail after trying to start?

When you turn the key to cycle the fuel pump, it will build pressure then shut off. If you continuously do this there's a good chance there will be sufficient pressure to keep the pump from energizing from the previous cycle.

 

[mlkmgr]

Key to on and there was 55 psi on the gauge n held for quite awhile. Dropped to 50 after half hour.

Started briefly but shut off after a couple seconds. Started again but shut off immediately. It seams to start after sitting for awhile but only momentarily. After this, it would only crank again until battery died.

Gas evaporated with no oily residue.

 

[RayGumm]

Started briefly but shut off after a couple seconds. Started again but shut off immediately. It seams to start after sitting for awhile but only momentarily. After this, it would only crank again until battery died.

Dude this totally happened to mine before I broke and took it to a shop. could be the same issue. Maybe that the vibration of cranking is not allowing fuel pump to stay on because of the flaky connection under the #41 relay. Check the underside of the fuse block out and save your coworker $150 if its the issue. Gotta get the upper and lower portions of the block apart for this, which I failed miserably at. Good luck, sir!

 

[mlkmgr]

Checked all wiring under fuse box n all looked good but didnt test any or know how. Going to drain gas n try sm new gas. Following that, off to the shop.

 

[gmcman]

Check the fuel injector harness connector on top of valve cover towards rear, just an idea.

 

[mlkmgr]

Will do that as well. Thx.

 

[mlkmgr]

Just to follow up and close this one out. (can't stand when you search forums and the OP just drops off the map with no follow up/solution)

Friend took it to dealer where they initially said it was the pcm. They kept it over a week and said they still couldn't get it started.

In the end "the rear fuse box was not getting any power and shorted out so they had to order a whole new fuse block". They also found shorted wires between the engine bay and the rear fuse box they had to replace.

I did not get the location of the shorted wires but if you are having issues, it could very well be wiring.

They did not charge for the pcm but charged him for labor, fuse block, and wiring.

I personally replaced the fuel pump, VVT solenoid, cleaned the throttle body, and gave it a tune-up. Running good as new and his gas gauge works again so he was happy with my work.


***BIG THANK YOU to all those who contributed and made suggestions!! Much appreciated.

 

[PProph]

Thanks for closing out! I agree with the your opinion on unresolved threads.