Which Halogen Headlights Should You REALLY Buy?

[therealsethallen]

To answer the question in the title, the answer is simply that there isn't a bulb I've found that I suggest. But this thread is more than that. Over my now 11 month ownership tenure with my 9-7x I've gone through approximately five sets of headlight bulbs. All by choice, and all for my own experimentation.

Hipro Power H11 5600k Halogen HID Headlight Bulbs $13.99 on Amazon- SKIP
GE NightHawk Sport H11 Halogen Headlight Bulbs- $23.95 on Amazon- 3 of 5 Stars
Sylvania SilverStar Ultra H11 Halogen Headlight Bulbs- $35-44 from different retailers- SKIP
Sylvania SilverStar H11 Halogen Bulbs (Received as a replacement to the Ultras from Osram)
Sylvania XtraVison H11 Halogen- from Walmart $23.97

So, the bulbs I bought the truck with lasted from the day I bought them to the beginning of the second week I owned it. I had ordered a set of HIPRO POWER H11 5600k Halogen bulbs from Amazon. Which were so dim that I got pulled over by the Massachusetts State Police to see if I could see. Realistically, I really liked the color of the lights, but not the lights themselves. They were pretty crap.

Then came the XtraVisions, which I LOVE. They had excellent downroad, and good color and both of them still work! I'm extremely impressed with these. I removed them only to try the Nighthawks.

Next up was the GE Nighthawk Sports, which I bought in an H11, thinking that's what my 2001 Volvo S60 took (they're actually H7). So, they sat in a package for months. The day that trooper pulled me over, the nighthawks went in. Color was a nice white, downroad visibility was quite good. One burned out in about ten weeks, and I was pretty ripshit but all the reviews I read did mention a short life, and I never called GE for a warranty set.

The Silverstar Ultras, well that's a funny story. I purchased a set in October after driving from New York through the Berkshires back home with one of the Nighthawks burnt out. I ran them all winter, and right up until the week before the engine died. I called Osram (who's offices are about an hour's driving time from me) and they sent me a set FedEx, which SOMEONE STOLE OFF MY STOOP.
They sent me a second replacement set, but last week one of those burned out. I honestly attribute the short life to the fact I still (and forever will) have my DRLs on.

After a kind correspondence with an Osram staffer yesterday, they agreed to send me a set of Silverstars. I'd previously pledged myself to PIAA Night Tech's for the low beam lights, it's what I used in my Volvo the entire time I owned it. They're fantastic. In two years and running at full power all the time, they lasted the whole time. They're quite expensive $52 a pair but worth it.


In short. While HIDs in reflector housings really piss me off they are the best, those or LEDs are probably the best.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Osram Nightbreaker... I am liking them for halogens. I tried about all the sylvania and none thrilled me. I would try GE next if these had not preformed well.


And my recent thread with some info on Halogen bulbs

http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/what-halogen-h1-bulbs-are-best.15290/#post-496195

 

[therealsethallen]

I've heard the Nightbreakers are actually the Siverstars, just dressed up as a different name. I've never been able to substantiate this. But, it seems true. I just installed the set of regular Silerstars tonight. I dig them.

 

[therealsethallen]

Here are some photos comparing the Sylvania's Silverstar to their Basic

 

[dmanns67]

I've heard the Nightbreakers are actually the Siverstars, just dressed up as a different name. I've never been able to substantiate this. But, it seems true. I just installed the set of regular Silerstars tonight. I dig them.

Osram is the parent company to Sylvania, so it is quite possible.

 

[seanpooh]

HIDs can't go wrong. I do get the occasional flashing by bypasses of cars but I can see the deer.

 

[therealsethallen]

Osram is the parent company to Sylvania, so it is quite possible.

Most of the Sylvania bulbs actually say OSRAM on them. The Sylvania basics do not. But the Silverstars do.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

It has been a few years since I used the Silverstars, but while they worked decent, they lasted for shit. I was hooping the Nightbreaker would do better so hopefully they are not the same.

 

[therealsethallen]

It has been a few years since I used the Silverstars, but while they worked decent, they lasted for shit. I was hooping the Nightbreaker would do better so hopefully they are not the same.

Were they regular Silverstars or The Ultras? I honestly think having DRLs is what killed the Ultras for me. If I'm really honest, they weren't extremely bright downroad, and I'd prefer good downroad over whiter light. Safe before sexy, I suppose.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I have the 100% DRL mod so it does not affect bulb life. I think they were Ultra, but it was awhile ago and I tried to get the best available before iwent to HID.

 

[therealsethallen]

Typically, The Ultras are usually regarded as the best for bright and worst for life. There's a YouTuber with 5.3 SWB TrailBlazer LT that seems to dig the PIAA Extreme White Plus, which cost $80 a set! I REFUSE to spend that much on headlight bulbs.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I was looking at some "offroad" Hella bulbs that were good for the H1 my current lights use,. They had decent price end reviews

 

[therealsethallen]

Hella is an extremely well regarded brand. I've always had good luck with their products. In fact, their Optilux line is what I used for fog bulbs until an impromptu off road excursion ripped one fog lamp assembly out. After that I got the LEDs and juried them to work.

 

[CajunWon]

The OEM headlight replacement for 2006 GMC Envoy Denali
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A1HD9HC/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[Mooseman]

I think the original idea of this thread was to get something more than just OEM style bulbs.

I've had HIR style bulbs for a while now. Definitely a difference in light output while keeping it as a halogen at same wattage. These ACDelco are the original HIR that are no longer made. Pricey at $29USD each but I know they work. Just need a slight modification to fit in the high beam.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9QPKS/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[Chickenhawk]

Sorry but there is no disputing the laws of physics. All the marketing hype, fake reviews and myths aside, you do NOT GET SOMETHING FOR NOTHING. Whiter light (as in higher on the kelvin scale) does NOT result in longer range visibility. It only appears to be longer range because the light is closer to daylight. One will never see a deer farther away because the light is whiter.

Sorry for everyone who buys into the myths, but those "bluer" headlights are ONLY for the looks; they do not result in the slightest bit of extra safety.

HIDs in housing not originally designed for them are illegal. There is NO state or province in North America where they are legal. Just because one has "not been pulled over yet" or "the cops didn't say anything" doesn't make them suddenly legal. They do not meet NHTS regulations, period. They also blind oncoming drivers.

Ironically, there is zero documented evidence - aside from the "seat-of-the-pants" reviews - that they shine farther anyway.

The brighter and whiter halogen lights burn hotter. They give more downrange light, but they burn out faster. There is no free lunch; one can get a hotter light that burns out in months, or one can get a dimmer light that lasts for years. Silverstars, Nighthawk Sports and ALL the "whiter" bulbs are brighter, but burn out faster. Plus, they are only marginally better as far as REALLY seeing that deer on the highway.

I have tested every single legal bulb on the market, and this is why I know one doesn't get something for nothing. Whiter does not equal brighter; whiter does not equal longer range, and brighter equals shorter life. Nobody pulling you over doesn't make it legal, and illegal bulbs does not equal better bulbs.

So in all my research and head-to-head range tests, what is the best bulb that is the best compromise between hotter (i.e. longer range) and service life? Right now, it is still the GE Nighthawks (not the Sport line) and Sylvania Xtravision (not the Silverstar line.) They are only slighter higher on the kelvin scale, and only slightly shorter in service life from OEM. They provide a nice increase in downrange brightness, at a cost of a slightly shorter life.

I run GE Nighthawks. They burn out about every 4 years, and they tend to burn out both bulbs within a month of each other. (The sign of a well-engineered and designed bulb.) Sylvania Xtravision are virtually the same bulb.

Nobody needs to listen to me, but in my opinion, don't buy into the "whiter is brighter" hype or the illegal HID hype (that blinds drivers but doesn't allow you to see that deer any farther.)

Yes, there will be some on this forum who will argue with me until the deer cross the road, but HIDs in housings not coming from the factory are illegal, plain and simple.

 

[Mooseman]

@Chickenhawk , you are bang on, however, have you done any testing with the HIR (Halogen Infra Red) bulbs? They're not like those other "whiter" bulbs that just burn hotter. The inside of the bulb glass have a coating that reflects the infra-red light back at the filament (hence the bulbous shape), making it brighter.

I have a set HIR 9011 for the highs in the Saab (used to be in the old TB) and they are noticeably brighter. The original Toshiba made ones, now available only from ACDelco, have lasted well but reading on the Philips version (with the regular tubular bulb shape) apparently burn out fast, which lead me to believe they are not true HIR but are cheating (à la SilverStar) by making them burn hotter and brighter to get the same light output.

 

[dkvasnicka]

It has been a few years since I used the Silverstars, but while they worked decent, they lasted for shit. I was hooping the Nightbreaker would do better so hopefully they are not the same.

In my experience the Nightbreakers are significantly better at shining at things but last shit. I was going through them so quickly I went back to "regular" H11s and they last significantly longer... Or, maybe I have little gremlins in my electrics, dunno.

 

[Mooseman]

More than likely, they just cheat like all the others, by using a thinner filament. Kinda like when putting 12V to a 6V bulb. Sure it will be bright but not for very long.

 

[Chickenhawk]

Mooseman, my good friend, in answer to your question, I have not used HIR bulbs. I tend to have strong opinions - yeah, a shocker, I know - but I back up everything I say with real world experience and, preferably, back-to-back testing. This is why I didn't mention my opinion on HIR bulbs.

The reason why I haven't tried them yet is simple - I am happy with the GE Nighthawks, and they just do not burn out often enough for me to consider trying anything else. We have two Trailblazers in our family so I buy the Nighthawks on Amazon, two pair at a time. (They ALWAYS burn out within a month of each other.) GE Nighthawks are harder to get in Canada, so I rely on Amazon.

If I had to choose between my top choices for better brightness at the cost of a slightly shorter service life, I would go with Nighthawks over the Xtravisions, but they are so close as to almost be a draw. But the Xtravisions are available at any Canadian tire store here in Canada.

I run Nighthawks and my wife runs the Xtravisions. (No particular reason other than she rarely does highway driving, and I am on the highway all the time. Plus ... I jealously guard my supply of GE bulbs.)

As for HIR bulbs, I will rely on those with more experience, provided it is a fair test and not a "whiter-is-brighter" test or a seat-of-the-pants review.

All that being said, I will admit to running one of the whitest (and most overpriced) bulbs in my high beam. PIAA. Why? Hey, I am an old road/rallye racer and I just wanted PIAA up there. The short life will have minimal impact in high beams because in my area here, I rarely get to use them. Please don't tell anyone that I am not even bright enough - so to speak - to follow my own advice sometimes.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Might also be that I have my DRL off most of time and when they are on, it is at 100% not the fluxuating bulb killing BS GM did.

 

[shovenose]

Alright, so here's what I have to say. I work at an auto parts store that basically carries (from cheapest to most expensive) Eiko, Syl Basic, Syl XtraVision, Syl SilverStar, Syl SilverStar Ultra, and Syl zXe.

Eiko is usually about $1 cheaper than Sylvania Basic, and light output looks the same. They don't publish any numbers for lifespan. Of the Sylvania offerings, the Basic bulbs are the cheapest, and have the highest rated hours. Then, for the most part, the more expensive you go, the less rated hours they have, though this varies widely based on the number/fitment of the bulb.

Something you should know is that all the Sylvania bulbs I've seen have a one year warranty, so keep the receipt!

Personally I just want working headlights, but I always replace in pairs, so I get XtraVisions for my stuff, friends, and family. It's hard to do a comparison from an old Basic/OEM bulb to a new XtraVision, but a two-pack of those is very close in price to two individual Basic bulbs (they don't come in two-packs), so I figure why not get the slightly "better" bulb.

The only time I would use Basic bulbs is if it's a vehicle where changing the headlights is a huge pain, because I wouldn't want to do it again.

I've put in a lot of bulbs in a lot of different cars and when customers want one bulb only and they get a SilverStar (for example) and on the other size have a "regular" bulb, sure, the new bulb always looks brighter and whiter, but I don't know if that actually correlates to "better" performance when driving, in fact I've heard that the "whiter" bulbs use a blue coating to achieve that, which really reduces usable light. Sure, Sylvania advertises that the more expensive bulbs have things like "better clarity, better downroad" etc but I just don't see how this is technically possible since that's up to the housing, not the bulb.

In terms of GE vs Sylvania, my new headlight housings for my Crown Vic included new bulbs. One is a "regular" Sylvania/Osram and one is a "regular" GE. Both have identical light output.

 

[Tiggerr]

I've tried many different bulbs and lights over the years in cars and semi trucks.... have to say.... The XtraVisions are about the best halogen light I've used...especially for he price/durability...

Silverstars are pretty good but last for shit and are too pricey


I disagree that HID is not better... IF properly done...
They may not shine that much farther down he road than a good halogen but the spread and color of light is far superior...
Obviously this depends greatly on the quality of projectors and bulbs/ballasts....

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Projectors are not really part of this discussion....of course in them an HID is superior.

 

[Mooseman]

HID in non-HID housings are illegal. Period. I don't care what anybody says, aimed properly, blah, blah, they blind the shit out of oncoming vehicles.

 

[therealsethallen]

The Saab does have projectors, meaning I could retro LEDs/HIDs into it and be "sort of" legal, but I don't think I'll do that. After dealing with the Warranty Department at Osram/Sylvania twice within one calendar year, was enough for me to switch, they sent me a set of XTraVisions, and I hope to get more life from them.

As for the argument on HIR bulbs, I know nothing about them aside from they look like the type of bulb I use in my office lamp.

 

[Mooseman]

Apparently doing a retro HID in halogen projectors is no better. I've seen the newer trucks that have projectors that seem to be projecting light everywhere, meaning they were retrofitted with HID's. Or maybe I'm just getting old.

 

[Chickenhawk]

Lots of good info in this thread. I have to agree with shovenose. Silverstars and similar bulbs look "whiter" because they use a blue coating to move the natural white balance of the halogen bulbs from warm white (about 3200K to 3600K) to daylight (4200K to 5600K or higher.) Again, one does not get something for nothing. To move these bulbs upward requires a coating. ANY coating reduces the actual amount of light shining downrange. This is why "whiter" is not always "brighter." Whiter is usually LESS light overall.

Because I work in the film industry, we are very familiar with Kelvin scale and how it relates to colour and light output. We deal with this stuff every day.

With halogen bulbs, I rely on uncoated ones that burn slightly brighter at a cost of slightly shorter life. (GE Nighthawks and Sylvania Xtravision.)

By the way, the one time I needed to best light possible was driving home at night from a training session with one of the actors on a recent movie, and a deer appeared directly in my lane. (I was on low beam.) I hit the brakes and stopped with room to spare and, apparently, did not break a syllable.

 

[Mooseman]

While tube surfing, I happened upon this video. Quite interesting and also surprising on some of the results.

Since this thread has become more than a halogen bulb question, I stickied it to the FAQ.

 

[Chickenhawk]

Good find. It really supports what many of us have been saying. Well-aimed HIDs in housings designed for them can throw light farther. HID conversions in non-HID housings are hit and miss, as well as illegal in most states and provinces. Poorly aimed HIDs can really blind (and irritate) oncoming drivers at the exact instant that you need the oncoming driver to be able to see.

It is hard to beat good Halogen bulbs.

As for LEDs, they still need a lot of refining. In the film industry, LEDs are the future but they still have a ways to go before they can cast good quality, controlled light at long ranges. You will notice in the video that the LED bulbs actually "cheat" their test results - they shine farther and cast more lux numbers simply because they are poorly focused. In fact, they are almost like driving on high beam all the time. (This is why the lux figures for low beam versus high beam are quite close.)

I put little value in lux numbers anyway because they cannot show you the quality of the beam or how much light is scattered randomly. Lumens is the total amount of light hitting a surface; lux is the instantaneous reading at any one spot. You can fill a swimming pool with a high-pressure garden hose ... but it will take forever. The high-pressure nozzle on a garden hose has impressive amounts of water pressure hitting one tiny surface, but the TOTAL amount of water filling the pool is nothing like a large-volume water pump.

Plus, lux is VERY dependant on distance, and with LEDs, lux falls off very rapidly. This is why variations in only a few inches back and forth can literally double or half lux numbers.

So "bluer" is not always "brighter," well-aimed HIDs in proper housings do a good job (but don't really cast that much more light farther away) and LEDs have a way to go before they are viable replacements.

The other issue to keep in mind is that the natural warm white colour of halogen bulbs can be an advantage over bluer (more daylight balanced) bulbs, especially in fog, rain or blowing snow.