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Water pump recommendation and bolt part number?

Discussion in 'Vortec 4.2L I-6' started by Dshow, Dec 19, 2016.

  1. Dshow

    Dshow Active Member

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    Hi,
    I have a 2003 Trailblazer LT, 4.2L. I need to replace my water pump for the 3rd time. The original one failed and I replaced it with a new one from Autozone that came with a "Life Time" warranty. So after replacing this multiple times, I want to get the OEM one or one that will last... There are two that I'm looking at, AC Delco for ~$40 and original GM for ~$120. What's the difference?

    Also, since I've used the original bolts multiple times, I thought I'd replace them to. Does anyone have the part number of the water pump bolts?
     
  2. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

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    @webdawg should be with you momentarily for the bolts. He has a set he can send you.

    For the difference, not sure. Maybe one is made in China and the other in Mexico? I got the cheaper ACDelco when the one year old Gates and then the Cardone died. It has lasted the longest.
     
  3. djthumper

    djthumper Administrator

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    I had 2 go out from O'Reilly's and replaced it with a Delco from Amazon.
     
  4. Dshow

    Dshow Active Member

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    Things come with a 'Lifetime Warranty' meaning you will be replacing it multiple times over its lifetime... Can I get the bolts from the local HW store? Anything special about these?
     
  5. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

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  6. Dshow

    Dshow Active Member

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    Thank you... Great post. A couple of questions...
    1) I ordered the AC Delco from Amazon and the feedback said get the metal gasket as well, so I ordered that. Do I put any gasket sealer on that when installing?
    2) When tightening the bolts, it says:
    On the initial pass, tighten the bolts in sequence to 10 Y (89 lb in).
    On the second pass, tighten the bolts in sequence to 10 Y (89 lb in).
    On the final pass, tighten the bolts in sequence shown an additional 45 degrees.

    What is 10 Y (just chris cross?) and why is pass 1 and 2 the same?

    I think the seal failed on one of my reinstalls so I want to make sure I do everything by the book.
     
  7. Mooseman

    Mooseman Moderator

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    Personally, I've never used a gasket, just RTV sealer. I have no idea what the 10y is. I just install it without following anything except a cross cross pattern.
     
    AtlWrk likes this.
  8. AtlWrk

    AtlWrk Well-Known Member

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    No clue what the "Y is about but 10 is the torque in Nm: 10Nm=89in-lbs.

    I also opted for just RTV (copper, because it's what I had and it was 2am) over the provided paper gasket. If using the metal gasket I would definitely use a gasket sealer. :thumbsup: The most important thing is to make sure everything is very very clean and dry before reinstallation.
     
    Mooseman likes this.
  9. webdawg

    webdawg Well-Known Member

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    Did you get the part numbers for the bolts?

    Also out of curiosity where did you get these instructions? (Was it ebscohost?)

    On the initial pass, tighten the bolts in sequence to 10 Y (89 lb in).
    On the second pass, tighten the bolts in sequence to 10 Y (89 lb in).
    On the final pass, tighten the bolts in sequence shown an additional 45 degrees.


    You should read my entire thread that the linked to. It talks all about the bolts, the 45 degree turn, everything. I even talk about the metal gasket and how to handle that.

    I think the instructions were either changed in the manual or the year got mixed up because the 45 degree turn means torque to yield which is only used on newer vehicles when installing the water-pumps then.

    I have my old water pump bolts but I will not be back from travels until after the new year.
     

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