Unhitching?

Instrumental

Original poster
Member
Jan 29, 2012
268
I did some towing with my new ride for the first time today, the air leveling suspension was great, brought a heavy trailer right up to ride height. However, when I went to unhitch, I barely had enough travel in my trailer jack to get it off the ball. Of course, when I started up it settled right down to ride height.

Anyone have similar experience? If I left it running while I unhitched, would it lower as pressure was reduced?
 

Jkust

Member
Dec 4, 2011
946
Instrumental said:
I did some towing with my new ride for the first time today, the air leveling suspension was great, brought a heavy trailer right up to ride height. However, when I went to unhitch, I barely had enough travel in my trailer jack to get it off the ball. Of course, when I started up it settled right down to ride height.

Anyone have similar experience? If I left it running while I unhitched, would it lower as pressure was reduced?

Sure, that's how it is with my boat as well. It is way too heavy to lift by hand unlike my snowmobile trailer. I have to wind the trailer jack all the way up and that's how it's been with all three of my 360's. The system will recognize when you unhitch and lower down to the normal height just not in as dramatic of fashion as when it raises it. If it becomes a problem just get a slightly lower hitch.
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
You could also take a gardem paver or some thing else with a large base and put it under the jack before lowering it. This could give you a few extra inches.:raspberry:
 

harmless

Member
Nov 21, 2011
2,049
blazinlow89 said:
You could also take a gardem paver or some thing else with a large base and put it under the jack before lowering it. This could give you a few extra inches.:raspberry:

Not to be confused with a "garden paver" or your foot. For the record. :raspberry:
 

Jkust

Member
Dec 4, 2011
946
blazinlow89 said:
You could also take a gardem paver or some thing else with a large base and put it under the jack before lowering it. This could give you a few extra inches.:raspberry:

Sure but presumably he needs to finalize the trailer position by hand and push the trailer around a bit.
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
The paver would be under the jack foot, and you can move the paver. Although that should be none issue anyways as the reason for the paver in the first place is to get it off the truck after it self adjusts. So when you go hook back up the vehcile will be lower than the hitch mount. Throw paver in back of truck and repeat the process. :thumbsup:

I carry 5 for the pop up, 1 for the trailer jack, and 4 for leveling jacks.
 

Jkust

Member
Dec 4, 2011
946
blazinlow89 said:
The paver would be under the jack foot, and you can move the paver. Although that should be none issue anyways as the reason for the paver in the first place is to get it off the truck after it self adjusts. So when you go hook back up the vehcile will be lower than the hitch mount. Throw paver in back of truck and repeat the process. :thumbsup:

I carry 5 for the pop up, 1 for the trailer jack, and 4 for leveling jacks.

Ah yes, my jacks have wheels on them. If for example, I was unhitching and I put a paver under the jack wheel, and given I can't lift the trailer tounge alone off the paver, that would be a non starter.
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Jkust said:
Ah yes, my jacks have wheels on them. If for example, I was unhitching and I put a paver under the jack wheel, and given I can't lift the trailer tounge alone off the paver, that would be a non starter.

I do not quite see how this relates to needing to move it by hand. If it cannot be lifter off the paver by hand, it definitely is not being moved by hand.

Another option to remove the paver would be to put something like say a floor jack, or even a leveling jack under a portion of the tongue/frame, away from the trailer jack and paver. Drop the trailer jack until the frame rest on the temporary support. Bring the trailer jack up enough to take any weight off of the paver. Take the paver out and lower the trailer jack until it takes weight off of the temporary support. The paver can be removed and so can the temporary support.

I have had to use this method once before and while it does take a few extra minutes, I always leave the jack foot on a paver. Provides a wider foot print to keep it from sinking into wet ground or hot asphalt. If you have concrete then it is none issue.

harmless said:
:rotfl: I couldn't resist. :tongue:
Its all good :biggrin:
 

Instrumental

Original poster
Member
Jan 29, 2012
268
Yep, I already have a 4x4 block under it, I guess I could build something a bit higher. For the popup I use a 4x4 attached to a square of plywood to spread it out and help stabilize a bit.

On the opposite note, I had the engine running while hitching today, and as I was still lowering the jack the pump kicked in and started leveling before I had the trailer popped onto the ball.
 

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