stabilizer bar end links why so thin??

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
I bought the AC DELCOs and didnt notice the HUGE difference between the Original and all the ones for sale...
The originals are 3x thicker than these replacements...
Why is that???
and what a PAIN getting these off... at 1030pm I decided to go "QUICKLY" replace them thinking 15minutes tops... I mean I just took apart the whole left side rear upper lower arms on my friends Corvette so this should go just as quick....
330am I was finally done with only 1 side. allen wrench stripped on the top bolt... vice grips would grab hard enough to hold the bolt... couldnt get the sawzall up there.... well at first!!!! at 3am finally was able to get sawzall up and onto the bolt then snapped it off...

so anyway... what is up with the original one being 3x thicker???? does it matter? I dont see any on rock auto that are any thicker.
 

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IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Ideas

1.) Materials grade. The original part may have sacrificed using a bit more material in return for using lower-grade (and therefore cheaper) metal. It may add up to where it saved money in the long run.

2.) Cheapness. The aftermarket folks may be saving a little money by minimizing materials usage. For better or worse, who knows until they try it?

3.) Possibly superior design (or at least equal). Look at where the bar meets the ends on the OEM part. That one side is flat, and the other side has something more like fins connecting the part rather than just being one solid piece from beginning to end. It also appears the OEM part may have been die-cast while the replacement is two ends, with a bar welded between them from the looks of it.
 

smt 59

Member
AC Delco is the second grade down from OEM, I would go with OEM or a quality after market, I have used the AC's and replaced a year later due to failure of product. Second time around is really easy. :thumbsup:
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
smt 59 said:
AC Delco is the second grade down from OEM, I would go with OEM or a quality after market, I have used the AC's and replaced a year later due to failure of product. Second time around is really easy. :thumbsup:
Delco IS OEM for a lot of stuff in GM vehicles. And Delphi for some of the more complicated electronics.
 
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bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
I dont think its from being cheap since they all look like this on rockauto. i guess its a better design.
my vette friend told me i should have drilled thru the knuckle into the ball. then jam a nail or allen wrench to stop it from spinning. that prob is better aa the nut just gets harder near the end!
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
smt 59 said:
AC Delco is the second grade down from OEM, I would go with OEM or a quality after market, I have used the AC's and replaced a year later due to failure of product. Second time around is really easy. :thumbsup:
what was the failure? the stock ones the ball area was shot
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
alright I did the opposite side...
Yeah drilling into the knuckle would have sucked!
I had to band the allen wrnech in as the bolt was mega rusted...
Once it go too lose the allen wrench would not stay in... so got the sawzall out!!!
Everyone needs to own a sawzall!!! wow! cut half way thru then bent broke off the bolt!
Fun fun, the truck doesnt have any bangs anymore driving around haha.
the right side actually seemed fine, but oh well, once you get it lose, it has to come off, because of all the rust and no way to stop it from turning.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
smt 59 said:
The passenger side got sloppy and clunking as well the bushings started breaking apart and I replaced those again(Moog)
ah...
I really dont think the passenger rear side was bad when I replaced it, but once you start taking that nut off and the allen strips, there isnt much choice but to cut it off and replace it.
I know the driver side was definitely shot as it let u know at every bump plus you could physically grab it and rattle it around.
Next up is cutting that hitch piece off the spare tire thing! been putting it off!
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
bspurloc said:
what was the failure? the stock ones the ball area was shot
My failure was the actual link breaking and flopping around.

Oh, these were aftermarket units. The tech at the dealership (warranty work - settle down!) finally used the original, thicker unit. No failures since.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
C-ya said:
My failure was the actual link breaking and flopping around.

Oh, these were aftermarket units. The tech at the dealership (warranty work - settle down!) finally used the original, thicker unit. No failures since.
Interesting they snapped. I wonder how that even happened, I dont think they actually get pressure on them in normal use to do that. My friends vette they are plastic. he replaced them with metal ones
 

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