Need help folks,2003 TB,just bought it so I am learning things, with the radio fuse installed the battery drains and is dead in 2 days,with the radio fuse out,everything is fine.Next I unplugged the OE radio (UBO) and no battery drain,.Trying to be sure its the radio that is at fault before replacing it. Now today I plugged in a radio from 03 yukon that had bose,of course it lit up and said locked and didnt expect it to work . I guess I will see if it drains the battery in a few days.Any help or direction would be appreciated,
SOLVED! Radio drains the battery in about 2 days.
- Thread starter TBgonzo
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
This test with the Yukon radio should confirm if your original radio is the cause of the drain. It does happen. Replacement radios should be plentiful in yards however the VIN will need to be programmed into it. You will be able to test it with key on aux but as soon as you put it to run, it will lock.
Last edited:
Mooseman
Moderator
Some shops have either a Tech 2 or an advanced scanner able to do it. At worse, a dealer can do it for sure. 10 minute job.
I would be more curious to see if the RAP is turning off like it should. RAP causes more dead batteries than you would think.
We have a network of tech2 tools on the forum.
@movietvet - I know your in Oregon, you got a tech 2 or a Autel to unlock radios?
We have a network of tech2 tools on the forum.
@movietvet - I know your in Oregon, you got a tech 2 or a Autel to unlock radios?
Mooseman
Moderator
Testing showed 1.47 amp draw,took about 5min. to work its way to .01,then after 35 seconds it will click and shoot back to 1.47.then do it all over again.I pulled the radio fuse.it then would read .85 and shortly drop to .01,after a few seconds it clicked then shot back to .85 then shortly dropped to .01,I got tired for staring at it for 20min. it had not moved.What is likely causing wake ups? Thanks to all that is trying to advise.
2.6 MV reading at radio fuse.
OEM radio
2.6 MV reading at radio fuse.
OEM radio
Last edited:
Mooseman
Moderator
well, you should probably read up on some of tjbaker57 posts on monitoring the data bus traffic to see what's up. Having said that, in the mean time, you can try unplugging the lift gate module which can be a source of "ugliness" due to problems with the wiring going to it and the amount of "open / close" action that has taken place in the vehicle history.
Last edited:
ANY flaky door switch will cause the vehicle network to wake up and activate circuitry that can cause the click you hear.
For about $15 you can get an OBD2 adapter and use a free terminal app to record the network traffic. This can directly identify if there is something like a door switch causing the trouble. I can provide instructions to do this.
For about $15 you can get an OBD2 adapter and use a free terminal app to record the network traffic. This can directly identify if there is something like a door switch causing the trouble. I can provide instructions to do this.
Here is whats wierd, i have a spare oe bose radio,with it plugged in ,it goes to sleep quickly less than a min. and it stays asleep.i can push most buttons and it will draw for a few seconds and then back to sleep,unlike the oe non bose.just the cd eject works with key off,maybe clock.
I do have a blue driver,rear latch disconnect is a good test ,ok, ........thanks for you help people.Could this bose be made to work?
I do have a blue driver,rear latch disconnect is a good test ,ok, ........thanks for you help people.Could this bose be made to work?
No it cant be made to work. Missing pretty much everything it needs to work.
So you have a Non-Bose radio stock?
So you have a Non-Bose radio stock?
BlueDriver as far as I know is a proprietary device that does not work with other softwares. So it cannot be used to view the serial data traffic as I described.
This is what it looks like on the serial data bus when the unlocked drivers door is opened and no key fob button has been pressed....
The first highlighted line is the Drivers Door Module (DDM) sending a bus wake-up message.
The second highlighted line is the DDM reporting the drivers door has been opened.
The next line after that is the BCM sending a "power moding" message to all modules on the network instructing what is the desired operational status.
The next line is the BCM acknowledging the message that the drivers door is open.
Next is the LGM reporting the hatch glass is closed.
And so on and so on. Everything seen here plus a whole lot more happens before you have even had time to let go of the door handle.
To my knowledge none of the fancy scantools, oscilloscopes, BlueDriver type devices display this sort of thing in a readable form.
This is what it looks like on the serial data bus when the unlocked drivers door is opened and no key fob button has been pressed....
The first highlighted line is the Drivers Door Module (DDM) sending a bus wake-up message.
The second highlighted line is the DDM reporting the drivers door has been opened.
The next line after that is the BCM sending a "power moding" message to all modules on the network instructing what is the desired operational status.
The next line is the BCM acknowledging the message that the drivers door is open.
Next is the LGM reporting the hatch glass is closed.
And so on and so on. Everything seen here plus a whole lot more happens before you have even had time to let go of the door handle.
To my knowledge none of the fancy scantools, oscilloscopes, BlueDriver type devices display this sort of thing in a readable form.
Last edited:
I thought there was two power connections for the radio... power and memory... what fuse are you pulling? This statement seems to imply that the radio is not involved in the problem.
Nope. No need for a "memory" power as the radio power is unswitched "hot at all times". The "Power Moding" message from the BCM tells it when to operate and when not to.
If the vehicle has a Premium sound option there will be a separate amplifier and that will have its' own unswitched "hot at all times" power feed and fuse. It too will behave in accordance to the Power Moding messages from the BCM.
Newest,I listen for the click when it went to sleep and shot back up.,it was faint and sounded like the cluster.With cluster removed it would not wake back up.So I borrowed a cluster from a 03 SLE envoy (working on my 04 LS TB) plugged it in all cluster worked,.waited and it went to sleep and stayed .So I will leave it in with battery connected and see what happens in a few days,guess i can check battery volts each day.Does this make sense yal?cluster will do this thanks for responding.
Yes... This is due to the loss of using Pure Lead in Solder; the alternate bonding choice being a Low Melting Point Tin Alloy Metal in Non-Lead Solder. This change in the type of Solder will... over time... allow these Weird Crystalline Conductive Tendrils to grow and continue propagating in odd and sundry directions all over the Logic Board.
Eventually, some of them will make just the Right (Wrong) Contacts and wind up Shorting Out the Board if these 'Metal Whiskers' touch anything that is "HOT at All Times" completing a Power Contact Circuit and thus, result in Draining Down the Battery ... even when the Ignition Switch is in the "OFF" Position, or with the Key removed.
Whenever Automotive Clusters are repaired by any of the Reputable Repair Shops...The Technicians will first Clean the Mobo - Logic Boards with a Special Acid or Solvent to break apart, dissolve and remove all of these often Nano-Sized Metal Spikes or Threads... thereby breaking up all of the unintended conducting paths... conducive for Electrons to Flow. Then the Technicians can affect the needed repairs of re-soldering the ordinary mini-parts like the SMC's (Surface Mounted Components) right back onto the PCBs using Leaded (Pb) Elemental Solder to solve this issue:
These are often referred to as "TIN WHISKERS" or "Silver Migration" and they are MORE than capable of creating Unintended Electrically Completed Circuits:
These Videos come from several such inexplicable Parasitic Draw incidents with GM Vehicles well documented by Eric "O" from (SMA) South Main Auto up in Avoca, NY. During the Post Repair Phase in the Last Video of a Two Parter involving a Silverado, Eric called the IPC Repair Technician who performed this work... and the Tech was good enough to explain the aforementioned phenomena... and all of the actions he took to mitigate this problem:
Some Preliminary Videos... Chasing a Classic "Unknown Parasitic Drain" while using my favorite Tool Kit of Choice for Diagnosing THIS Particular issue:The Snap-On Vantage MT2400 Graphing Multi-Meter with a Snap-On Low Amp Clamp set onto the mV Scale:
Then... Watch from around 7:30 into THIS Video to witness the Phone Call Event and what Eric "O" Discovered from the IPC Tech as the actual Cause and Origin of this "Mysterious Overnight Battery Drain":
Eventually, some of them will make just the Right (Wrong) Contacts and wind up Shorting Out the Board if these 'Metal Whiskers' touch anything that is "HOT at All Times" completing a Power Contact Circuit and thus, result in Draining Down the Battery ... even when the Ignition Switch is in the "OFF" Position, or with the Key removed.
Whenever Automotive Clusters are repaired by any of the Reputable Repair Shops...The Technicians will first Clean the Mobo - Logic Boards with a Special Acid or Solvent to break apart, dissolve and remove all of these often Nano-Sized Metal Spikes or Threads... thereby breaking up all of the unintended conducting paths... conducive for Electrons to Flow. Then the Technicians can affect the needed repairs of re-soldering the ordinary mini-parts like the SMC's (Surface Mounted Components) right back onto the PCBs using Leaded (Pb) Elemental Solder to solve this issue:
These are often referred to as "TIN WHISKERS" or "Silver Migration" and they are MORE than capable of creating Unintended Electrically Completed Circuits:
These Videos come from several such inexplicable Parasitic Draw incidents with GM Vehicles well documented by Eric "O" from (SMA) South Main Auto up in Avoca, NY. During the Post Repair Phase in the Last Video of a Two Parter involving a Silverado, Eric called the IPC Repair Technician who performed this work... and the Tech was good enough to explain the aforementioned phenomena... and all of the actions he took to mitigate this problem:
Some Preliminary Videos... Chasing a Classic "Unknown Parasitic Drain" while using my favorite Tool Kit of Choice for Diagnosing THIS Particular issue:The Snap-On Vantage MT2400 Graphing Multi-Meter with a Snap-On Low Amp Clamp set onto the mV Scale:
Then... Watch from around 7:30 into THIS Video to witness the Phone Call Event and what Eric "O" Discovered from the IPC Tech as the actual Cause and Origin of this "Mysterious Overnight Battery Drain":
Last edited:
Had seen the first two SMA videos in the recent past,this last one sure does explain things.Eric is super sharp.
On this TB the weird thing is a Bose radio would not cause a parasitic draw but the old radio and matching wrecking yard radio would draw.Thanks to all that spoke up here.
On this TB the weird thing is a Bose radio would not cause a parasitic draw but the old radio and matching wrecking yard radio would draw.Thanks to all that spoke up here.
Last edited: