Plug and hitch question

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
I have only had my TB for a few days, and it snowed and iced here so I haven't explored it that much yet. I did notice the hitch and plug are marked GM so I guess its a factory tow package. Thats great for me.

I can't seem to get the cover off the trailer light plug though. It turns and the whole is released to slide out of the holder but what the heck is up with the cover? Maybe it has never been used and is stuck. I tried WD 40 to soak it for awhile.
Here are some pics. Thanks guys.

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the white foam is the WD40
 

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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Is it above freezing? But do you have to get at it for towing right now? The real connector just pulls off that dust cover from the BACK.

Yes, it's a factory item. What year is yours? I seem to think only the SS models, rarely used for towing, had a covered connector like that. And they were provided with a stub cable adapter that plugged in there, and on the trailer end had a more industry-standard female connector. Did you get a stub cable?

There's some part numbers in this thread: Trailer Hitch Wire Harness - How To - TrailBlazerSS.com

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Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
Oh I see, so you leave it in the holder and pull it out..going out to try that ...
No stub wire but my umbilical on the trailer is pretty long. I will look under the storage cover and see if something is in there. Thanks a lot.
This vehicle is a little odd. It has a rear defroster...wires and window wiring but no switch. Its an LS.
I had to order a remote for the door locks too. Maybe I will need that stub cable also. I do use trailer brakes so i need a 7 pin connector.

Can't complain as it is in nice shape and was a good price.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
That's a little odd to have the wires on there.

Did you look at the climate control console? There is a button on there that shows a square with wavy arrows, that would be the rear defogger toggle. A small yellow light will illuminate on it when active. It's a little different to have it on the climate controls rather than a discrete switch, but that's where it's at.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
did not find a stub cable...surprise...could not pull out the plug on the back side,,,thinking I should cut that thing off and add a real 7 way connector. Might stop by the Chevy dealer and see if they can tell me how to get that plug off.

So the battery is under the back seat? Thats convenient..
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
Alansd said:
did not find a stub cable...surprise...could not pull out the plug on the back side,,,thinking I should cut that thing off and add a real 7 way connector. Might stop by the Chevy dealer and see if they can tell me how to get that plug off.

So the battery is under the back seat? Thats convenient..
That is a fuse box under the left rear seat.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
djthumper said:
That is a fuse box under the left rear seat.

Thought it was the battery...duh! Black box with a lightning bolt on it.

Still trying to get the trailer light plug open...it doesn't pull out..what am I missing?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Reading the Owner's Manual is a CRITICAL and required step in owning a new vehicle. Every page. Cover to cover.

If you didn't get one because the previous owner was a goof, PDFs are trivial to find by good Googling.
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
Alansd said:
Thought it was the battery...duh! Black box with a lightning bolt on it.

Still trying to get the trailer light plug open...it doesn't pull out..what am I missing?

From my experience with the trailer socket:
There is a lock tab to release the cover and then twist it ccw about 90 and it will pull out.

The wiring harness will be attached to the back of the cover, you should see a release.

Next, you need to purchase the 7-pin socket (I found it on Amazon, GM #12191503, Dorman #924-307 about $20-$30) with a hinged cover and a connector on the back that matches your harness.

Connect the harness to the socket, push into the bracket, twist cw to lock, No cutting needed.


I had to replace my socket because of damage from a collision that occurred before I bought my truck.
And apparently not all trucks came with the socket, just a cheap cap to keep the connector clean and safe.
What did they save?? $5 a truck ????
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
Alansd said:
Still trying to get the trailer light plug open...it doesn't pull out..what am I missing?


Owner's manual? Edit: oops. Slow browser today.
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
BRomanJr said:
From my experience with the trailer socket:
There is a lock tab to release the cover and then twist it ccw about 90 and it will pull out.

The wiring harness will be attached to the back of the cover, you should see a release.

Next, you need to purchase the 7-pin socket (I found it on Amazon, GM #12191503, Dorman #924-307 about $20-$30) with a hinged cover and a connector on the back that matches your harness.

Connect the harness to the socket, push into the bracket, twist cw to lock, No cutting needed.


I had to replace my socket because of damage from a collision that occurred before I bought my truck.
And apparently not all trucks came with the socket, just a cheap cap to keep the connector clean and safe.
What did they save?? $5 a truck ????

You are absolutely correct. However at $5.00 per vehicle and 1,000,000 vehicles that is 5,000,000 dollars. That is how an automotive bean counter looks at it. Now you know why they do some of the dumb things they do. :frown:
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
RedEnvoyDenali said:
You are absolutely correct. However at $5.00 per vehicle and 1,000,000 vehicles that is 5,000,000 dollars. That is how an automotive bean counter looks at it. Now you know why they do some of the dumb things they do. :frown:

More importantly, they add $5 to the cost and charge $100 or whatever for the "towing package." Even then, during the mid 2000s GM had a big problem with selling under cost for vehicles just to try getting their name out there, part of the reason for the bailout.

Or maybe the reason here is the whole "SS" thing. People who buy things that look pretty and sleek often get extraordinarily particular, and hiding the harness unless you opt to install the factory connector thing is probably part of that. There's some people who'd go insane if everything isn't symmetrical on the exterior. Others may just think it looks "ugly" because the SS is all "sporty" rather than your daily towing choice. A bunch of reasons why this could be, really.
 

Mark20

Member
Dec 6, 2011
1,630
Alansd said:
Thought it was the battery...duh! Black box with a lightning bolt on it.

Still trying to get the trailer light plug open...it doesn't pull out..what am I missing?

I too thought it was a battery the first time. Wondered why there would be two. Until I realized the battery symbol was really a fuse symbol. :duh:
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
Mark20 said:
I too thought it was a battery the first time. Wondered why there would be two. Until I realized the battery symbol was really a fuse symbol. :duh:

Thanks I am no so car dumb been working on them for 50 years now ..... I have read the Manual and downloaded the pdf of it for browsing. Doesn't tell much about the tow set up.

And my rear defogger does not have a button anywhere. Wonder why not...the wiring seems to be all there. Weird

I will buy that conector and get the trailer lights working....I looked all over the net for a stub, or pigtail. Did not find any.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
BRomanJr said:
From my experience with the trailer socket:
There is a lock tab to release the cover and then twist it ccw about 90 and it will pull out.

The wiring harness will be attached to the back of the cover, you should see a release.

Next, you need to purchase the 7-pin socket (I found it on Amazon, GM #12191503, Dorman #924-307 about $20-$30) with a hinged cover and a connector on the back that matches your harness.

Connect the harness to the socket, push into the bracket, twist cw to lock, No cutting needed.


I had to replace my socket because of damage from a collision that occurred before I bought my truck.
And apparently not all trucks came with the socket, just a cheap cap to keep the connector clean and safe.
What did they save?? $5 a truck ????

That is perfect..its only 20 bucks with shipping. Thanks a lot
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,687
Tampa Bay Area, FL
They do have HVAC modules without the rear defrost button. When I bought an Ebay replacement for my LED mishap, I was shipped one like that by mistake. Granted, I don't have a whole lotta use for it living in my location, but I insisted on getting the right part.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Blckshdw said:
They do have HVAC modules without the rear defrost button. When I bought an Ebay replacement for my LED mishap, I was shipped one like that by mistake. Granted, I don't have a whole lotta use for it living in my location, but I insisted on getting the right part.

And right you were. Let's be honest, with the way the weather's been getting progressively, it wouldn't hurt :thumbsup:
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
the roadie said:
It's in the manual. :undecided: And on yout HVAC control head.

Nothing there, a black cover over that spot. I will have to see if I can put one in there.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Then maybe either someone replaced the back glass (less likely, you said the bungee wires were there attached to the grid?) or they replaced the HVAC head and got the wrong one by accident. I know some absolute-base models did have a rear defog delete option, but there wouldn't be a grid on the rear window then.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
its not high on my list but at soem point I will check the wiring and see if I can install the switch.
Thanks for all the ideas and help so far.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
thanks guys..for the help.. I found the trailer plug adaptor at Auto Zone. It fits right into the factory mount and adapts that connector to my 7 Pin trailer umbilical The lights all work now.

I hooked up the wires for the Prodigy brake controller, they all color matched as I followed the e-trailer schematic in the video there. The thing is not working yet, but I suspect I blew a fuse when I was wiring the harness up. Will check it tomorrow. Under the seat...maybe

Appreciate all the suggestions. I am happy as heck I found that connector so easily.:biggrin:
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
If you don't have one, a 7-to-4 pin adapter may prove useful if you find yourself hauling various trailers. For instance, the 12-footer U-Haul I used required a 4-pin connector. I bought one rather than renting one, wasn't too bad.
 

Alansd

Original poster
Member
Feb 12, 2014
102
IllogicTC said:
If you don't have one, a 7-to-4 pin adapter may prove useful if you find yourself hauling various trailers. For instance, the 12-footer U-Haul I used required a 4-pin connector. I bought one rather than renting one, wasn't too bad.

yes I do have one of those... I mainly tow my Airstream trailer.. 8 or more times a year.
 

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