crate2002 said:
Thanks! Ill look into that website. I fabricated the front 3" suspension blocks myself. I am a fabricator and figured I would tackle the task. They are precision and 3" on the dot. I just finished the lift on Saturday afternoon so no alignment yet. Just made an appointment to have that done. I troubleshooted more with speed, and I found that high speeds it does not do it. Lower speeds It does. Dead stop launch it does. That makes me think weight shift. I drove some back roads full of hills to see If I can get it to make some noise / vibration. I think I have pin pointed the problem to be the front CV shafts during weight shift. I crested a hill and when the tires stayed flat on the road and the body gained some elevation, It made the exact noise and vibration. Maybe an alignment will help this but they aren't off too badly at all. I might be right at that boarder line with the cv shafts being at too hard an angle. Normal driving fine. normal driving 4x4 low and high fine. Small offroad flexing at crawling speed fine. There are several companies making 3" front suspension lifts so I would imagine someone out there HAS to have had the same issue. Or its just my luck that I am the only one.
End result, I may have to just NOT hit the throttle that hard, or less suspension lift up front and add body lift, or find aftermarket CV shafts designed for a lifted TB.
crate2002 said:
They are on top due to the bilstein HD being factory length. I thought it would top out too quickly adding the lift inside the coil...
Your issue is entirely due to excessive lift OUTSIDE the strut. You're way beyond the borderline.
You can safely put no more than 3/4" spacer on top of the strut unless you're 2WD. The only commercial lift I approve (and I've been evaluating suspension products for years) that uses an outside the strut spacer uses 1/2".
At this point I think your CV shafts are toasted and if you run that kind of launch test again they might break. The stresses are enormous.
Yes, the shocks are the down-limiting element in the suspension design. Due to two elements they are protecting:
1) The inner CV joint is angle-limited. Because the shafts are short.
2) The upper ball joint shaft is under tremendous stress at full extension, and some have even snapped. Without custom upper arms, the universal countermeasure that all of us offroaders do is remove the upper arms, flip them upside down and from side to side, and then the ball joint angle is more normalized.
You MUST put a spacer inside the strut due to these issues. Yes, an inside-the-strut spacer does nothing but trade up-travel for down-travel. All it does is pre-load the spring to change the resting height. People have claimed the spring pre-load changes the height because it increases the spring rate (in inches per pound) but we have constant-rate springs so this analysis is flawed. There are about 7" of travel no matter what you do. If your old resting height gives you 3" of up-travel and 4" of down-travel, then your modified strut might give you 1" of up-travel and 6" of down-travel, and in return you win 2" increase in resting height.
Please post pics of what you built, but please also cease testing it to the point of shaking. What you built was attempted in the middle east a few years ago by a guy who slapped on 4" spacers on top of his strut. I nicknamed it the "Kuwaiti Death Trap."
Please don't be that guy.
) but have read of a few persons using the outside the strut lifts (see second post for example). Just trying to head off issue for you but could be to late. I am hoping Roadie and other ORTB veterans with chime in here. 
I ride ATV in the Pennsylvania coal region so Ill still get my offroad fix lol.
