Intermittent PRDNL Indicator Weirdness, P0700 and other Goodness

spfautsch

Original poster
Member
Feb 6, 2024
37
Montgomery City, MO
As I've officially reached wit's end, I'm back on this subject.

This problem is on a 199k mile 5.3 Envoy XL I picked up around the first of the year. The previous owner had reached the end of his rope with paying for repairs on it, and let it go for what I thought was a steal - a 5.3 Denali with a nearly immaculate leather interior, no check engine light and no obvious cobbling / mods. I brought it home and stored it for a bit, and then started replacing all the obvious stuff such as the driver side exhaust manifold that had been leaking so long the cast iron had rusted and eroded away from the #1 exhaust port and would never seal again. About $3500 later it was running and driving so well I decided to try getting the A/C working. Turns out the high side service valve (an $8 part) had leaked all the refrigerant out. I vacuumed it down and charged four cans of 134a and the A/C is still going strong three months later. Sweet?!?

All that aside, the issue I'm having ties back to this other thread by currently AWOL user Spck here. The reason I reference that is that the more I read of his initial posts the more I find in common with my issue.

What happens is when the engine and / or transmission and / or underhood temp is in a certain range, that the PRNDL indicator in the IPC will randomly and intermittently jump from whatever gear is actually selected, to park, and then back to the selected gear. Obviously if it's in park nothing observable happens, but I have had it set a P0700 or P0604 code before even shifting out of park. Most of the time this phenomenon will occur when transitioning from stopped to moving or hitting a patch of pavement that unsettles the suspension to the driver's side, and other times it will happen for absolutely no apparent reason while in motion, with frequency decreasing as speed increases. But it will also occur when sitting motionless in neutral with no-one (including the driver) in or even near the vehicle.

When this problem occurs, a side effect is that the door locks will cycle from locked to unlocked and back to locked. This is how I have the BCM option set - lock doors when shifted out of park, unlock all doors when shifted into park. Since on the V8 models the only module capable of sensing and communicating what gear range the shifter is set to, the T42 TCM is undeniably the source of the erroneous information. Since it only connects to the ECM and ALDL connector over canbus, I don't think this issue could possibly be caused by problems on the older class 2 network. Side note: the door lock circuitry is not resposible for this issue. I will not reiterate this statement again. I've disabled the door lock options, and the only difference it made was that the problem was only easily perceptible when I happened to be looking at the PRNDL indicator, or was in motion and felt the transmission momentarily become as limp as a wet paper towel.

I won't demand that you go read what I've posted in the other 'Prndl going crazy' thread that was several years old when I hijacked it, but if you're so inclined please do - click here.

Here's a list of what troubleshooting / parts cannon steps I've taken, in chronological order (as well as my memory serves):

1) swapped the range switch (aka neutral safety switch) with a known good unit
2) checked grounds / wiggled wires / harnesses and added an auxiliary ground to the case of the T42 module
3) split the under-hood fuseblock numerous times searching for any evidence of a cracked copper shunt
4) replaced the T42 module after the exiting module apparently developed a recalcitrant P0604 - Internal Control Module Random Access Memory Error
5) disconnected, stripped, inspected and re-loomed the branch of the wiring harness that goes over the back of the intake manifold and connects the transmission, lambda sensors and vss sensors
6) replaced the ignition switch
7) replaced the alternator
8) replaced the EPC solenoid, manifold pressure switch and internal transmission harness - I didn't replace the two a-b shift solenoids because this has happened while in every possible commanded gear
9) once again replaced the used T42 module with a re-programmed salvage module after what I refer to as 'the clicking incidents' worsened and became less temperature-dependent. The replacement module set a code on first start and even after clearing codes went into limp mode several times on a normal 115 mile commute circuit.
10) purchased a new GM 24252114 module and programmed it in-vehicle. It acted almost identically to the second salvage module
11) disconnected the purge canister vent solenoid power from the power circuit that supplies the TCM "always on" power
12) as I suspected the ground circuit to the range switch which passes through the underhood fuseblock may be goign open, I drove around waiting for it to start happening, and then switched to manual 2nd - the only condition where all circuits from the range switch to be open. It "clicked the locks" in second more than once.
13) I momentarily gave up and posted this

My guess here is that something is either causing loss of power to the T42 module which causes it to "reboot", or one of the inputs is causing it's internal programming to crash / watchdog, and cause it to (re-)start up in a state where it assumes the inputs should indicate the transmission controls and sensors suggest it's in park. Whatever the case, this module is one of two canbus enabled modules, so it can't "talk" directly to the IPC or BCM where the PRNDL indicator and door lock controls are being being leveraged.

Here's a video. Please let me know if you have trouble viewing it and I'll transcode. click

In the video, when I say "it's up to temperature", I mean it's up to the temperature where this symptom is easily reproduced. And when I say "there's 2nd", I mean I shifted into manual 2nd, the only gear selection where the range switch has all the pins open (i.e. not grounded) which would be equivalent to the ground wire to the range switch being open (broken).

I hope this is something stupid and remedial, but I'm going to come in saying it's a post-graduate level problem. In short, don't bother asking me about the health of the battery as it was bought new at the end of January (3 months old). Or how the transmission fluid looks as it would have zero bearing on such an obviously electrical problem. I've researched extensively and replaced or ruled out (to my satisfaction) all the usual offenders.

mrrsm: I appreciate you, but please keep your French vocabulary response down to the most basic (oui / non). I'm much better at decoding broken english.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,064
kanata
not sure how accessible things are but since you indicated some temperature type interaction... maybe try heating the connector area with a hair dyer to see if the causes things to happen or prevents things from happening.
 

mrrsm

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Well...OP... You've probably already done the obvious here... But, Just In Case... Not... THIS comes courtesy our Legendary GMT Nation Alumnus "The Roadie" from way back in 2009 from over at the TV Site.

PS... Just In Case the Question begs an explanation... The Word "Alumnus" is LATIN (Singular, Masculine Reference) ... NOT French...

BOBSBALLCAP.jpg


And Now... for some "Guided Component Tests" in Multiple Parts for The Range Switch:

Part 1 Range Switch Components Description:


IMG_8675.jpegIMG_8676.jpegIMG_8677.jpegIMG_8678.jpegIMG_8679.jpegIMG_8680.jpegIMG_8681.jpegIMG_8682.jpegIMG_8683.jpegIMG_8684.jpeg

More to Follow...
 

Attachments

  • [SOLVED] - transmission indicator jumps between D and P !! Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS a...pdf
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mrrsm

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Part 2: Range Switch DC Voltage Tests:

IMG_8685.jpegIMG_8686.jpegIMG_8687.jpegIMG_8689.jpegIMG_8690.jpegIMG_8691.jpegIMG_8692.jpegIMG_8693.jpegIMG_8694.jpegIMG_8695.jpegIMG_8696.jpegIMG_8697.jpeg


More to Follow...
 
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mrrsm

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Part 1 of 3 Parts for Range Switch Resistance Tests:

IMG_8698.jpegIMG_8699.jpegIMG_8700.jpegIMG_8702.jpegIMG_8703.jpegIMG_8704.jpegIMG_8705.jpegIMG_8706.jpegIMG_8707.jpegIMG_8708.jpegIMG_8709.jpegIMG_8710.jpeg

More to Follow...
 
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mrrsm

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Part 2 of 3 Parts for Range Switch Resistance Tests:

IMG_8698.jpegIMG_8699.jpegIMG_8700.jpegIMG_8701.jpegIMG_8702.jpegIMG_8703.jpegIMG_8704.jpegIMG_8705.jpegIMG_8706.jpegIMG_8707.jpegIMG_8708.jpegIMG_8709.jpegIMG_8710.jpegIMG_8711.jpeg

More to Follow...
 
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mrrsm

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Part 3 of 3 Parts for Range Switch Resistance Tests:

IMG_8712.jpegIMG_8713.jpegIMG_8714.jpegIMG_8715.jpegIMG_8716.jpegIMG_8717.jpegIMG_8718.jpegIMG_8719.jpegIMG_8720.jpegIMG_8721.jpegIMG_8722.jpegIMG_8723.jpegIMG_8724.jpeg

And with all that Imagery laid bare in the Order these Screen Prints Appeared... While you may not be able follow each and every Step-By-Step to do in the absence of having THIS Remarkable Diagnostic Tool...At the very LEAST...it will clarify just how Complex that Simple PNS (Park-Neutral-Safety Switch)...Ooops... "Range Switch"... REALLY is in the face of your Mysterious Dilemma. I imagine we''ll soon see how any of this comports with your thinking on how to sort out... What Has Gone Wrong.... Where...and...Why.
 
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AmpOverload

Member
Jul 10, 2023
121
USA
Several questions come to mind after I've read the hijacked thread and your post above.

First, you mention that your scantool is not even capable of reporting which node is reporting the DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code). Have you gotten any better scantool since then? I consider this reasonably important since this problem is so elusive and even a bit more so since (as you know) this 2006 Envoy XL has both an Engine Control Module (ECM) and a Transmission Control Module (TCM). There's no need to buy anything even close to $500 (from your post in the hijacked thread). Both of those nodes, as you know, are on the ISO 15765-4 CAN bus (OBD2 connector pins #6 and #14), so even the low-end scantools (like the $14 Veepeak 'OBDCheck VP11') can read from those nodes.

Your truck may be reporting DTCs for the transmission that you're completely unaware of, given the diagnostic tool(s) you're using now. Many (I might even say, "most") transmission-related DTCs will not turn on the "CEL"/"MIL" (Check Engine Light / Malfunction Indicator Lamp) since that is used for emission-related DTCs. Yes, I know that your MIL was coming on, but it could have been related to DTCs (even TCM-triggered ones) which might be emission-related. My point is that transmission-related issues must be diagnosed by reading non-emission-related DTCs too and that's a different command to the vehicle than most inexpensive, all-in-one scantools support.

Second, since your symptoms seem to point to the TCM getting a bad value for the "TR" (Transmission Range) switch (as it's called in Tech2/Tech2Win), I wonder how confident you are about the TR switch that you installed. I know you said "swapped the range switch (aka neutral safety switch) with a known good unit", but it would be highly illustrative to see what the TCM thinks this value is. It's actually four 1-bit values: A, B, C, and P. I've run my CANbus simulator with Tech2Win with your 2006 Envoy XL (with V8) as the selected vehicle and I see that the TR switch and "TFP" (Transmission Fluid Pressure) switch values are both reported in Mode $22 PID $1951, so it would be useful for you to have a cheap scantool and something like Torque Pro to monitor (or, even better, "log" and/or "plot") that PID while the vehicle is misbehaving. It would rule out everything else besides the TR switch and/or the wiring between it and the TCM.

Third, it wasn't clear to me just how many TCMs you've used in this diagnosis. I think I count 3 -- the original, a replacement, and a 2nd replacement. Can you please clarify that? Also, how long has the current TCM been installed in the vehicle without seeing any DTCs like P0601, P0604, P0700, or U0101. Stated another way, "Have you had any DTCs reported with the current TCM?".

IIUC, your Envoy XL comes with the 4L60E transmission, correct? If so, I'll point you to the attachment in @mrrsm's post #66 in that hijacked thread. That PDF document has information that may prove invaluable, especially if you have a scantool to monitor PID $1951.

I understand your frustration with this, so I hope my post is somewhat helpful. I think you can get to the bottom of this without spending a small fortune, so I hope you aren't ready to give up just yet!
 

spfautsch

Original poster
Member
Feb 6, 2024
37
Montgomery City, MO
Thanks for the responses.

I have purchased a better scan tool (Xtool A30M) but from the user interface it doesn't treat the TCM as a separate module - it lumps all that data under "Powertrain". I can look at live trans data with it but I'm not completely certain whether it's getting the live data from CAN or class 2. It has shown me a few U0101 DTCs that didn't set the MIL.

I'm fairly certain the TCM is rebooting because when it happens while looking at live data all the data #s go invalid and it stays like that for several seconds.

To clarify, I am on module #4.

1) The one that was in the vehicle which is completely done - post-mortem picture of it is in the hijacked thread.

2) First salvage yard module. It is currently not in the vehicle, but it's the only one that hasn't experienced a P060x or P0700 DTC.

3) Second salvage yard module - returned to seller

4) New GM 24252114 currently in vehicle and was when video was shot

I will ultimately end up using #2 as it has proven most robust, but I wanted to have a spare and they're cheap (relatively speaking).

mrrsm:

Thanks for those pics - the logic matrix it shows for the switch contradicts what I'd found randomly searching the interwebs. So I guess I have some reading to get done.

When you say courtesy of The Roadie, are you referring to the smarta** hat or the diagnostic images? I only ask because I'm curious what diagnostic tool that is.

I guess I get to spend the day crawling under this sob again. :-\ But first I'm going to verify the ground at the fuseblock b/c I made the false assumption it couldn't be the issue.

I'm also starting to question the health of the new Autozone ignition switch and think I better take a look at ignition voltage b/c when I was looking over some of the scantool logs just now I noticed the IGN voltage reported in the trans live data was 12.4 while the engine was running. Additionally, I've noticed another electrical gremlin - two or three times since installing that switch I've had the issue where the IPC goes bonkers with all the gauges reading zero and nearly every light illuminated along with the service stabilitrack nag in the DIC. This problem is usually accompanied by non-functional window controls on the driver side. I'm going to have to pore over my credit card statements b/c I'm not 100% certain the IPC and DDM weirdness did not predate the switch replacement.

But first, coffee and then appease the dog with a walk so he'll quit begging.

Thanks again guys!
 

spfautsch

Original poster
Member
Feb 6, 2024
37
Montgomery City, MO
Sure enough, the credit card statement doesn't lie. Ignition switch was bought / installed on 3/1, first incident with DDM was on 3/8. First incident with the IPC was a week or so later.

I don't see a lot of voltage difference though - at least when I check at the TCM fuse in the rear fuseblock.

Replacing it anyway, the local parts house had one with the grey cover / revised design where the Autozone branded one has the black cover. Doubt it will help, but I've seen a lot of mention of the IPC symptoms caused by the switch.
 

AmpOverload

Member
Jul 10, 2023
121
USA
I'm fairly certain the TCM is rebooting because when it happens while looking at live data all the data #s go invalid and it stays like that for several seconds.
My guess here is that something is either causing loss of power to the T42 module which causes it to "reboot", or one of the inputs is causing it's internal programming to crash / watchdog, and cause it to (re-)start up in a state where it assumes the inputs should indicate the transmission controls and sensors suggest it's in park.
Anything is possible, but I would not expect the TCM to reboot based on a bad input since there would be little point in doing so.

Assuming that's true then... if the TCM is rebooting and if you can find evidence that no other node (e.g. EngCM) on the CAN bus is also rebooting and since you've seen the 'PRND321' problem with multiple TCMs, then it should be (relatively) simple -- the TCM power and/or ground wiring/connectors/fuses are faulty, right?

I have purchased a better scan tool (Xtool A30M) but from the user interface it doesn't treat the TCM as a separate module - it lumps all that data under "Powertrain". I can look at live trans data with it but I'm not completely certain whether it's getting the live data from CAN or class 2
For the record, I also run a VPW simulator alongside my CAN simulator when testing with Tech2Win and I see no evidence of any VPW ("Class 2") traffic when displaying either "Engine Data" or "Transmission Data" in Tech2Win. FWIW, I was surprised to see that Tech2Win shows the transmission "OSS" (Output Shaft Speed) on the "Automatic Trans." page, which is accessed via the "Engine Data" page and (by monitoring my CAN simulator's output) I can confirm that it's showing OSS with nothing more than EngCM (CAN address $7E0) queries, i.e. using no TCM (CAN address $7E2) queries. I find that rather weird.

I just noticed something else. The "Engine Data" page in Tech2Win (which is built with nothing but EngCM queries) reports a "PNP Switch" (i.e. "Park/Neutral Position"). I wonder where it gets this information from. Is this distinct from the TCM-reported "TR" (Transmission Range) switch? Or is it somehow derived from it instead? That may be irrelevant to your issue, but it makes me curious.
 

spfautsch

Original poster
Member
Feb 6, 2024
37
Montgomery City, MO
Anything is possible, but I would not expect the TCM to reboot based on a bad input since there would be little point in doing so.

The other possibility I thought of when considering the ignition switch tangent is perhaps it's going into a forced power save mode when the IGN signal drops below a certain level.

... then it should be (relatively) simple -- the TCM power and/or ground wiring/connectors/fuses are faulty, right?

One would think. I've satisfactorily eliminated the module ground by attaching an auxiliary ground to the module case. I've tested continuity to the BAT power pin as best as possible with the equipment I have. I guess this is the excuse I needed to buy a digital storage scope. I'd drop a smiley here but my mad money balance is as low as it's been since I found that pewter 2001 Corvette I just had to have in 2022.

For the record, I also run a VPW simulator alongside my CAN simulator when testing with Tech2Win and I see no evidence of any VPW ("Class 2") traffic when displaying either "Engine Data" or "Transmission Data" in Tech2Win. FWIW, I was surprised to see that Tech2Win shows the transmission "OSS" (Output Shaft Speed) on the "Automatic Trans." page, which is accessed via the "Engine Data" page and (by monitoring my CAN simulator's output) I can confirm that it's showing OSS with nothing more than EngCM (CAN address $7E0) queries, i.e. using no TCM (CAN address $7E2) queries. I find that rather weird.

I just noticed something else. The "Engine Data" page in Tech2Win (which is built with nothing but EngCM queries) reports a "PNP Switch" (i.e. "Park/Neutral Position"). I wonder where it gets this information from. Is this distinct from the TCM-reported "TR" (Transmission Range) switch? Or is it somehow derived from it instead? That may be irrelevant to your issue, but it makes me curious.

My "expertise" on the subject of computer controlled stuff begins with the 94 flash based PCMs, and tapers off to the end of the P01 controlled systems. But what information I've been able to find on the subject seems to indicate that the T42 operates as a "slave" to the P38. Looking at the wiring diagrams for the V8 gmts, the range switch and the manifold pressure switch connect only to the TCM. So if the data is being reported by the ECM, it must have come from the TCM.

Edit: Just to clarify, the point I was attempting to make is when you consider that the rest of the modules in the vehicle are class 2 VPW only, it's apparent that the ECM is proxying information to them from the TCM.

Another bit of telemetry I've noticed and found interesting is the trans input shaft sensor speed (late 2006 and up). The Xtool interface displays TCC PWM percentage, and the delta of engine speed and input shaft speed, aka TC clutch slippage in RPM. I was perplexed when I noticed that during decel the TCM actually commands reduced PWM to allow the TCC to slip more. I'm sure there's a method to GM's madness on that, but I'll be damned if I understand it. My thinking would be use as much of the decel inertia as possible to eliminate the need for the engine to produce torque / consume fuel.

Edit: Nevermind that, it now occurs to me they were trying to preserve as much vehicle inertia as possible. Stupid automatic transmissions. All my other cars have the correct number of foot pedals.

I'm getting ready to pull the fuseblock, re-pin the vent solenoid power and then re-inspect everything there carefully. Then replace that ignition switch. After that it's to the concrete floor I go...
 
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AmpOverload

Member
Jul 10, 2023
121
USA
One would think. I've satisfactorily eliminated the module ground by attaching an auxiliary ground to the module case. I've tested continuity to the BAT power pin as best as possible with the equipment I have.
One thing that I keep thinking about is, in your video, how the 'PRND321' glitch (current gear --> Park --> current gear) can happen multiple times very quickly, typically twice in less than a second, and then at other times only once. I don't know how long a TCM reboot would take, but the inconsistency just seems slightly odd.

My "expertise" on the subject of computer controlled stuff begins with the 94 flash based PCMs, and tapers off to the end of the P01 controlled systems.
With GM, I'm mostly experienced with P04 PCMs. Vehicles with EngCM + TCM are rare in my world. However, I was perusing the wiring diagrams for your 2006 Envoy and I see a connection between EngCM (connector C3, pin 45, yellow wire) and TCM (pin 5) called "Signal High - Front". I have no idea what that is and an Internet search turned up nothing useful. The EngCM and TCM may well share data via broadcast messages on the CAN bus, but I have no such bus captures to analyze.

But what information I've been able to find on the subject seems to indicate that the T42 operates as a "slave" to the P38. Looking at the wiring diagrams for the V8 gmts, the range switch and the manifold pressure switch connect only to the TCM. So if the data is being reported by the ECM, it must have come from the TCM.

Edit: Just to clarify, the point I was attempting to make is when you consider that the rest of the modules in the vehicle are class 2 VPW only, it's apparent that the ECM is proxying information to them from the TCM.
Completely agree.

Also, the wiring diagrams did confirm what I suspected. The "TR" (Transmission Range) and "PNP" (Park/Neutral Position) signals are one-and-the-same. Since the EngCM is queried for that "PNP" value in Tech2Win, the EngCM is clearly getting it from the TCM, much like the "OSS" value, it seems.

Another bit of telemetry I've noticed and found interesting is the trans input shaft sensor speed (late 2006 and up). The Xtool interface displays TCC PWM percentage, and the delta of engine speed and input shaft speed, aka TC clutch slippage in RPM. I was perplexed when I noticed that during decel the TCM actually commands reduced PWM to allow the TCC to slip more. I'm sure there's a method to GM's madness on that, but I'll be damned if I understand it. My thinking would be use as much of the decel inertia as possible to eliminate the need for the engine to produce torque / consume fuel.

Edit: Nevermind that, it now occurs to me they were trying to preserve as much vehicle inertia as possible. Stupid automatic transmissions. All my other cars have the correct number of foot pedals.
I have very little recorded data for GMC trucks, but on GM Buicks (for which I have the most data), the TCC PWM duty cycle typically drops to 0% on deceleration, which correlates well (IIUC) to your edited comment.

I'm getting ready to pull the fuseblock, re-pin the vent solenoid power and then re-inspect everything there carefully. Then replace that ignition switch. After that it's to the concrete floor I go...
Good luck!
 

spfautsch

Original poster
Member
Feb 6, 2024
37
Montgomery City, MO
One thing that I keep thinking about is, in your video, how the 'PRND321' glitch (current gear --> Park --> current gear) can happen multiple times very quickly, typically twice in less than a second, and then at other times only once. I don't know how long a TCM reboot would take, but the inconsistency just seems slightly odd.

Having designed and built a coil per cylinder ignition module for the 91-96 LT1 optispark engines, I can tell you that 0.08 seconds (in this case the time from power applied to microcontroller to firmware fully initialized) is a very short time interval. That's with an archaic 8 bit, 8mhz Atmel microcontroller. Pretty sure everything GM used after 1999 was 16mhz.

Good luck!

Thanks! Normally I would say I make my own, but in this case I feel like I need it!
 
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mrrsm

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Those Images-Screen Prints are Photographs that I took of the Diagnostics Screens of my Snap-On Vantage Pro which allows me to enter pretty much any Domestic and Asian Vehicles between the Years of 1981 and 2015 by Year-Make-Model and then just "Follow The Bouncing Ball" through the relevant issue at hand. I just Plugged in YOUR 2006 Envoy with the 5.3L Motor and 4L60E Transmission ...and went ahead with examining the Component Lists and instructions for investigating the "Range Switch".

Actually, having these second hand tools that are in good shape are Game Changers for owners of Legacy Vehicles that even the Dealership Dudes with the ASE Shoulder Patches won't work on because they cannot MAKE MONEY off of them. When you read a TSB that explains (If you have P1345 Code for this or that reason... Just Order a New Engine...) THAT is the state of things on the Pro Side of the Auto Dealership and High End Private Repair Operations...and it is getting worse by the minute.

I own a Snap-On Modis Scan Tool Kit...and an Autel MaxiDAS DS708 and an SPX OTC AUTOBOSS Scan Tool Kit and a Snap-On Vantage Digital Graphing Multi-Meter and most recently the Snap-On Vantage PRO and FOUR Oscilloscopes ( Jesus Palomino... I Love Oscilloscopes) simply because I Refuse to be Held Hostage to the Knowledge and Skill Sets of other Men when I am perfectly capable of Learning and Doing these exotic Problem Repairs... Myself. Oh...and sharing as much as the law (and the Mods) will allow...HERE. :>)

Actually... ALL of these Tools are quite simply... Miraculous...and the "New To Me" Snap-On Vantage PRO seems amazingly adept at explaining Three Important Things (1) What does the System Involve DO? (2) What Parts and WHERE are the Connectors located that I have to Plug Into with my Various Built-in Probes & 2 Channel "O" Scope and Pin Probes to gather up Information? (3) What Step-By Steps AND Component Tests specific to Each Individual Years Makes & Models are involved and SHOWS ME WHAT TO CHECK AND HOW TO TEST? Oh...and "Make It SNAPPY!...Will YAZ?" :>)... Pun Intended.

I'll get off this *Snap-On Rah-Rah Carnival Ride with its Worthwhile Brass Ring worth Grabbing at as you Go along on these Repair Merry-Go-Rounds" ...But it's worth it alone JUST because of All of that Hand Holding being done means that I won't have to rely upon as many Deep Internet Dives or Additional Research that might produce Bad or Specious information ...and NEVER actually solve the problems.

There are Working Mechanics on this Earth who simply cannot and will NEVER be able to Construct...Experience and Maintain an Institutional Memory on Repairs that a device like the Vantage PRO contains (250,000 Parameters on its Compact Flash (CF) Drive) that sadly ended with the 2016 Last Update of Version (16.4). Even if they have limited Component Diagnostics...it STILL has a Dual Channel Oscilloscope and a GRAPHING Multi-Meter in its features...IT IS NOT A SCANNER...It's Harry Potter, Gandolph and Gollum rolled up inside of a Red Box filled with SO MANY Swords of Gryffindor!!!

If you want to "Walk in The Tall Corn with The Big Dogs" for ALL Repairs... Save Your Bread...Do your research on eBay (and search around in HERE too...For God Knows I've Posted enough about all this Hi Tech Gear over the years) and then invest in the REAL Equipment. And... You Won't Go Broke Doing This ...for about as much as your paid for those 4 TCMs ...you could have owned THIS Snap-On Vantage PRO for $588.00. :>)


PS... Think *Pink*...follow EVERY single *Pink* Wire leading from the Ignition Switch down to the 20 Pin Solenoid Harness poking up and out of the 4L60E on the Passenger side Case Ledge and any *Pink* Wire leading to the TCM...and ANYWHERE Else that there is a *Pink Power Wire*, too. Check them ALL for Intermittent Shorts to Ground from signs of Abrasion or Cuts or Damage in the Wire Bundles and Connectors...REMEMBER PULL GENTLY ON THE WIRES AT THE RELATED CONNECTORS AND LOOK FOR ANY SIGNS OF GREEN CUPRIC OXIDE ...CORROSION..
 
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spfautsch

Original poster
Member
Feb 6, 2024
37
Montgomery City, MO
The ignition switch and other fiddling didn't solve the problem as I expected. Tomorrow I'll attempt to work towards another troubleshooting tangent.

Hey, waitaminnit! My VPW simulator PCB was designed (about a year ago) to work with that exact sort of microcontroller (ATMega328, specifically)! :wink:

OK, I admit it... I'm archaic. 😄

As am I: link

I'm fairly certain I'm the only hobbyist that's ordered more than 50 two-layer PCBs with through-hole components in this decade. But I did.

I also like old stuff. Newer than a transistor radio, but older than DRM / Napster. This 2006 buggy has aged 18+ years, and so it qualifies as "old" in my book. Not as old as me, or either of my children, but you get the point. Personally I'd prefer it was 10 years older, but you take what you can get.

Actually, having these second hand tools that are in good shape are Game Changers for owners of Legacy Vehicles that even the Dealership Dudes with the ASE Shoulder Patches won't work on because they cannot MAKE MONEY off of them. When you read a TSB that explains (If you have P1345 Code for this or that reason... Just Order a New Engine...) THAT is the state of things on the Pro Side of the Auto Dealership and High End Private Repair Operations...and it is getting worse by the minute.

Trust me, I know exactly where you're coming from.

I own a Snap-On Modis Scan Tool Kit...and an Autel MaxiDAS DS708 and an SPX OTC AUTOBOSS Scan Tool Kit and a Snap-On Vantage Digital Graphing Multi-Meter and most recently the Snap-On Vantage PRO and FOUR Oscilloscopes ( Jesus Palomino... I Love Oscilloscopes) simply because I Refuse to be Held Hostage to the Knowledge and Skill Sets of other Men when I am perfectly capable of Learning and Doing these exotic Problem Repairs... Myself. Oh...and sharing as much as the law (and the Mods) will allow...HERE. :>)

Actually... ALL of these Tools are quite simply... Miraculous...and the "New To Me" Snap-On Vantage PRO seems amazingly adept at explaining Three Important Things (1) What does the System Involve DO? (2) What Parts and WHERE are the Connectors located that I have to Plug Into with my Various Built-in Probes & 2 Channel "O" Scope and Pin Probes to gather up Information? (3) What Step-By Steps AND Component Tests specific to Each Individual Years Makes & Models are involved and SHOWS ME WHAT TO CHECK AND HOW TO TEST? Oh...and "Make It SNAPPY!...Will YAZ?" :>)... Pun Intended.

I'll get off this *Snap-On Rah-Rah Carnival Ride with its Worthwhile Brass Ring worth Grabbing at as you Go along on these Repair Merry-Go-Rounds" ...But it's worth it alone JUST because of All of that Hand Holding being done means that I won't have to rely upon as many Deep Internet Dives or Additional Research that might produce Bad or Specious information ...and NEVER actually solve the problems.

There are Working Mechanics on this Earth who simply cannot and will NEVER be able to Construct...Experience and Maintain an Institutional Memory on Repairs that a device like the Vantage PRO contains (250,000 Parameters on its Compact Flash (CF) Drive) that sadly ended with the 2016 Last Update of Version (16.4). Even if they have limited Component Diagnostics...it STILL has a Dual Channel Oscilloscope and a GRAPHING Multi-Meter in its features...IT IS NOT A SCANNER...It's Harry Potter, Gandolph and Gollum rolled up inside of a Red Box filled with SO MANY Swords of Gryffindor!!!

Wow, I've never heard so many nerd references in the context of automotive repair. I own most of the Tolkien books and most of the Rowling books and have read them all numerous times. That said, I get where you're coming from and appreciate that you shared. Hopefully it will help.

IIf you want to "Walk in The Tall Corn with The Big Dogs" for ALL Repairs... Save Your Bread...Do your research on eBay (and search around in HERE too...For God Knows I've Posted enough about all this Hi Tech Gear over the years) and then invest in the REAL Equipment. And... You Won't Go Broke Doing This ...for about as much as your paid for those 4 TCMs ...you could have owned THIS Snap-On Vantage PRO for $588.00. :>)

I've not enough energy to address all your points sufficiently, but we're kindred spirits. But the tools aren't miraculous, they're simply trading your time for your money - or in other words, knowledge for convenience. I'm of the school where walking in the tall corn with the big dogs implied making your own tools, because honestly I'd rather spend my money elsewhere. I have a whole box full of improvised tools for 4l60e rebuilds, etc. I've repurposed my aforementioned ignition controller to align the optispark base on gen2 LT-1s. It's all about what works. Sometimes the best tool is a baseball bat. Sometimes it's a microscope. I've never had the words "I think I'd like to buy that Snap-On [whatever]" roll out of my mouth, for numerous reasons. I'm glad you did, but I can't. At the same time, here I am with a seemingly un-solveable problem.

PS... Think *Pink*...follow EVERY single *Pink* Wire leading from the Ignition Switch down to the 20 Pin Solenoid Harness poking up and out of the 4L60E on the Passenger side Case Ledge and any *Pink* Wire leading to the TCM...and ANYWHERE Else that there is a *Pink Power Wire*, too. Check them ALL for Intermittent Shorts to Ground from signs of Abrasion or Cuts or Damage in the Wire Bundles and Connectors...REMEMBER PULL GENTLY ON THE WIRES AT THE RELATED CONNECTORS AND LOOK FOR ANY SIGNS OF GREEN CUPRIC OXIDE ...CORROSION..

I've seen no corroded connectors, and I've dis/re-connected a lot of them. There seems to be about 2 miles more wire in these vehicles than was necessary. I'm worried I won't have enough years left above the dirt to find what's crossed / broken. But I will soldier on and hopefully find something. Sooner would be great, but I'm not holding my breath.
 
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mrrsm

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Around HERE... "Whoever has the MOST Tools Before he DIES...Wins" At 75 and counting (Day By Day)... My Money is on ME! :2thumbsup:
 

spfautsch

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I've worked in IT for the past 27 years, and I'd like to say "I accept your challenge", but I"m not sure it would matter in the current "modus operandi" - there's some latin for you! The OEMs have gotten the message from the feds with the cash for clunkers campaign, and also taken the hint from the software companies that turned their entire business model into "subscriptionware". I.E. pay us a monthly fielty or your stuff will stop working.

I don't like any of it. I've been an open-source advocate for my entire IT career. The industry has primarily gone in the opposite direction. I guess money talks and bullshit walks. I'm the guy that walks. But I say bring it on. I have plenty of parts for Holley and Rochester carbs in my parts cache.
 
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AmpOverload

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Great site and content, thanks!
I'm fairly certain I'm the only hobbyist that's ordered more than 50 two-layer PCBs with through-hole components in this decade. But I did.
Through-hole PCBs -- yes, I think we may have to drag you into the new millennium on that one! :wink: I was dragged to SMD parts about 13 years ago, when I tried to order some wire-wrap DIP sockets, saw how outrageously priced or unobtainable they were, and realized that I was a fossil who had to move forward or die. I will admit to using a few through-hole parts on my HVS-VPW (Hardware Vehicle Simulator) PCB from 2023, though. :yikes:

I've been an open-source advocate for my entire IT career.
I, too, am strongly in favor of open-source software and hardware. The former (especially Linux and the GNU compilers) has been good to me for decades now and the latter for almost that long.
 

mrrsm

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Off Topic but relevant your last comments ...and following that SMD Theme to a contemporary problem (which I have yet to solve and restore THIS Snap-On Vantage PCB)... if you would not mind taking a look at Post #7 through Post #11 over in THIS Thread and advise me on how to remedy THIS difficulty...I would appreciate the help:

 
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spfautsch

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Feb 6, 2024
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Montgomery City, MO
Not having read it in great detail, those shouldn't be too rough to remove. C13 should have markings that will help identify the size and voltage. I would want to remove C1 to measure it, and if it's a relatively small value such as picofarads even then I wouldn't trust the measurement that much, but it's also not likely to be very critical as it's likely there for protection / decoupling and not a resonator circuit.

That pin pitch of SMD is a breeze to work on relatively speaking. Lately I've been working on hacking some cheap chinese POE security cameras, and needing to solder leads onto the UART pins to interrupt the bootloader. These have SMD caps that are 1/4 the size of your C1 there. Naturally there's one right next to the TX pad.

On the TCM, I'm done for today. Was able to check the range switch function at the TCM connector, but not a lot else. The difficulty I'm having is it never acts up without the engine running, and it's a major PITA to work on anything on these vehicles. Backprobing the range switch is never going to happen b/c even if you remove the front driveshaft it's still a squeeze to get to. The best I was able to do is reach over the crossmember and wiggle the harness while I had the meter measuring continuity to ground.

The only thing I did find was the 6 ga battery cable that feeds power to the underhood fuseblock was dropping 120mv due to corrosion inside the crimp. I was able to spread the old terminal and re-use it but I'd like to find a new one and the correct crimp tool. Unfortunately, it didn't help the TCM issue.

I think I'm going to have to build a breakout cable so I can put test leads on different pins to see what's happening. Those connectors are 'spensive. :-\
 
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mrrsm

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I was just wondering... Is it worth considering just replacing the 4L60E Solenoid Harness of the proper Year-Make Model for your Vehicle as per these shown over on Amazon... (or via RockAuto) Just in case there is a Momentary Short Circuit happening somewhere down inside there? I really HATE throwing parts at anything...But ...On Very Rare Occasions:

Desperate Times ...Call for Desperate Measures:

 

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AmpOverload

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That suggestion was meant for the OP @spfautsch ...
 

spfautsch

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I was just wondering... Is it worth considering just replacing the 4L60E Solenoid Harness

From first post:

8) replaced the EPC solenoid, manifold pressure switch and internal transmission harness - I didn't replace the two a-b shift solenoids because this has happened while in every possible commanded gear

Since there's nothing apparently wrong with the old harness I'll keep in my parts cache in case I ever need the 2007 4l60e in my storage unit that my boneheaded relative ran out of fluid. I suspect the connectors in it are going to be brittle b/c the fluid smelled so bad it triggered my gag reflex.
 
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mrrsm

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I know this might be a bit of a reach... but it might be worth trying to update the TCM Calibration if this is any kind of Software *Glitch* going on...

MYSTERIOUSP0700.jpg
 

spfautsch

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There were no GM published updates for this controller when I flashed it last Thursday.

No offense, but that website seems like one of the generic "car help" sites where they aggregate useless information and regurgitate it for people who are too lazy to actually turn a screwdriver.
 

mrrsm

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And beyond the 'Reach" suggested... Here we have The Proof that "The Road To Hell...is Paved with Good Intentions..."
 

spfautsch

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Montgomery City, MO
Well I do have some news to report - when driving it to the storage unit last night it was very upset with me. I could feel the trans acting strange just about any time the front of the vehicle was lower than the rear. Locks clicking like crazy. I feel like I was close to the "pinched nerve" when I peeled the TCM branch out of the split loom.

IMG_20240428_134638298.jpg

I suspect the problem wire is likely covered in tape where the five or six branches converge. That's going to be "fun", but at least it's not underneath the vehicle.
 
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Mooseman

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Wouldn't be surprising. There have been instances of wires in that loom breaking for no apparent reason.
 

spfautsch

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I guess it's poetic justice. The first thought I had when I considered it could be a wire is that I hope the hell it's not in that mess. On the V8s there are four branches for the TCM + ECM, one going towards the top of the engine, one going to the fuseblock, maybe even another. All converging around the power steering reservoir.

Somewhat off-topic but I've been searching for a right-angle ring terminal similar to the ones GM used on the 6ga lead supplying power to the fuseblock. Seems like I'm going to have to make due with a flat one b/c I'm not finding anything readily available that looks like it will fit.
 

spfautsch

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Well day 2 of staring at wires has proved pointless. The main engine / TCM / ECM harness was actually not too bad to get stripped bare - the end where the ECM & TCM live is the only place where five branches converge. Next is a Y where one branch heads to the top of the engine, and another Y heads to the fuseblock. Nonetheless, I've found squat other than some wires who's jackets were mildly stuck together, a bit short or looped around other stuff that could've been done better.

Long story short, I've wiggled and fidgeted around with the bare harness and found nothing that directly causes the symptoms.

In the process I've found numerous things in the repair manual (the pdf one for the 2006 Buick) that are patently erroneous. Primarily the location of splice pack S101, which the manual claims is "4 cm from breakout to C107" (see pages 17 & 155 of "electrical components"), when in fact it's right next to the front differential vent, which isn't a few centimeters from anything in terms of wire length.

I just ordered a cheap chinese storage scope, and two days ago a salvage connector for the TCM. Intentions are to cannibalize the dead TCM connector to make a break-out cable to connect between the harness and TCM so I can probe circuits two at a time while driving, as it seems whatever's upset w/ me is most upset when the vehicle is moving slowly over sloped pavement, especially at certain temperatures. Getting it into the garage yesterday was worrying b/c the TCM was resetting constantly and when it does the 1-2 shift solenoid was being shut off, commanding a shift to 2nd while trying to climb the ramp and two 1-1/2" steps into the garage.

This is by far the most frustrating automotive problem I've ever attempted to diagnose.
 

Realism

Member
Nov 25, 2015
188
Idaho
As I've officially reached wit's end, I'm back on this subject.

This problem is on a 199k mile 5.3 Envoy XL I picked up around the first of the year. The previous owner had reached the end of his rope with paying for repairs on it, and let it go for what I thought was a steal - a 5.3 Denali with a nearly immaculate leather interior, no check engine light and no obvious cobbling / mods. I brought it home and stored it for a bit, and then started replacing all the obvious stuff such as the driver side exhaust manifold that had been leaking so long the cast iron had rusted and eroded away from the #1 exhaust port and would never seal again. About $3500 later it was running and driving so well I decided to try getting the A/C working. Turns out the high side service valve (an $8 part) had leaked all the refrigerant out. I vacuumed it down and charged four cans of 134a and the A/C is still going strong three months later. Sweet?!?

All that aside, the issue I'm having ties back to this other thread by currently AWOL user Spck here. The reason I reference that is that the more I read of his initial posts the more I find in common with my issue.

What happens is when the engine and / or transmission and / or underhood temp is in a certain range, that the PRNDL indicator in the IPC will randomly and intermittently jump from whatever gear is actually selected, to park, and then back to the selected gear. Obviously if it's in park nothing observable happens, but I have had it set a P0700 or P0604 code before even shifting out of park. Most of the time this phenomenon will occur when transitioning from stopped to moving or hitting a patch of pavement that unsettles the suspension to the driver's side, and other times it will happen for absolutely no apparent reason while in motion, with frequency decreasing as speed increases. But it will also occur when sitting motionless in neutral with no-one (including the driver) in or even near the vehicle.

When this problem occurs, a side effect is that the door locks will cycle from locked to unlocked and back to locked. This is how I have the BCM option set - lock doors when shifted out of park, unlock all doors when shifted into park. Since on the V8 models the only module capable of sensing and communicating what gear range the shifter is set to, the T42 TCM is undeniably the source of the erroneous information. Since it only connects to the ECM and ALDL connector over canbus, I don't think this issue could possibly be caused by problems on the older class 2 network. Side note: the door lock circuitry is not resposible for this issue. I will not reiterate this statement again. I've disabled the door lock options, and the only difference it made was that the problem was only easily perceptible when I happened to be looking at the PRNDL indicator, or was in motion and felt the transmission momentarily become as limp as a wet paper towel.

I won't demand that you go read what I've posted in the other 'Prndl going crazy' thread that was several years old when I hijacked it, but if you're so inclined please do - click here.

Here's a list of what troubleshooting / parts cannon steps I've taken, in chronological order (as well as my memory serves):

1) swapped the range switch (aka neutral safety switch) with a known good unit
2) checked grounds / wiggled wires / harnesses and added an auxiliary ground to the case of the T42 module
3) split the under-hood fuseblock numerous times searching for any evidence of a cracked copper shunt
4) replaced the T42 module after the exiting module apparently developed a recalcitrant P0604 - Internal Control Module Random Access Memory Error
5) disconnected, stripped, inspected and re-loomed the branch of the wiring harness that goes over the back of the intake manifold and connects the transmission, lambda sensors and vss sensors
6) replaced the ignition switch
7) replaced the alternator
8) replaced the EPC solenoid, manifold pressure switch and internal transmission harness - I didn't replace the two a-b shift solenoids because this has happened while in every possible commanded gear
9) once again replaced the used T42 module with a re-programmed salvage module after what I refer to as 'the clicking incidents' worsened and became less temperature-dependent. The replacement module set a code on first start and even after clearing codes went into limp mode several times on a normal 115 mile commute circuit.
10) purchased a new GM 24252114 module and programmed it in-vehicle. It acted almost identically to the second salvage module
11) disconnected the purge canister vent solenoid power from the power circuit that supplies the TCM "always on" power
12) as I suspected the ground circuit to the range switch which passes through the underhood fuseblock may be goign open, I drove around waiting for it to start happening, and then switched to manual 2nd - the only condition where all circuits from the range switch to be open. It "clicked the locks" in second more than once.
13) I momentarily gave up and posted this

My guess here is that something is either causing loss of power to the T42 module which causes it to "reboot", or one of the inputs is causing it's internal programming to crash / watchdog, and cause it to (re-)start up in a state where it assumes the inputs should indicate the transmission controls and sensors suggest it's in park. Whatever the case, this module is one of two canbus enabled modules, so it can't "talk" directly to the IPC or BCM where the PRNDL indicator and door lock controls are being being leveraged.

Here's a video. Please let me know if you have trouble viewing it and I'll transcode. click

In the video, when I say "it's up to temperature", I mean it's up to the temperature where this symptom is easily reproduced. And when I say "there's 2nd", I mean I shifted into manual 2nd, the only gear selection where the range switch has all the pins open (i.e. not grounded) which would be equivalent to the ground wire to the range switch being open (broken).

I hope this is something stupid and remedial, but I'm going to come in saying it's a post-graduate level problem. In short, don't bother asking me about the health of the battery as it was bought new at the end of January (3 months old). Or how the transmission fluid looks as it would have zero bearing on such an obviously electrical problem. I've researched extensively and replaced or ruled out (to my satisfaction) all the usual offenders.

mrrsm: I appreciate you, but please keep your French vocabulary response down to the most basic (oui / non). I'm much better at decoding broken english.
So. You went way technical, but did you check your basic connection? Did you pull your shifter cover apart and check the mechanical side? Sometimes its the movement that causes the nerves to misfire
 

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