How To: Clean The Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid (CPAS) Picture Heavy

[Voymom]

If your truck has been throwing a p1345 and or p0014 code these simple steps can help determine if you need to replace the actual CPAS. With my experience in this procedure I had also done an engine flush using Mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 motor oil, cheap fram oil filter.

My truck had decided to throw the p1345 and p0014 codes after my wonderful husband added engine restorer found in wal-mart. Following my engine flush, these were the steps I took in completely eliminating both codes therefor turning off my SES light without the need to reset it.

Step 1- Disconnect your battery, I should't need pictures or instructions for this step.

Step 2- Remove your Serpentine belt

Step 3- Locate your CPAS(It is directly behind/beside your power steering pump)

Step 4- Disconnect the wiring harness that is connected to your CPAS(You can replace the harness if you would like, I didn't bother doing so as mine was in pretty decent condition)

Step 5- Remove the 3 bolts holding the power steering pump, this will allow you to push the power steering pump down and back without having to remove it entirely. Using a 13mm socket and a ratchet go through the center of the pulley to reach the 3 bolts. There is no need to remove the pulley.

Step 6- Using a 10mm socket, remove the single bolt holding the CPAS in place

Step 7- Twist the CPAS towards you and pull until it comes out. Ease of removal depends on how nasty it is around the seem. Mine took a bit of finesse, Let the oil drain from it before cleaning.

My dirty CPAS

Step 8- Remove the rubber O ring, that way the cleaner won't eat away at it.

Step 9- Using Throttle body/Carb cleaner spray and gently clean the CPAS. I used a toothbrush but BE GENTLE when cleaning the screen, you really don't want to ruin that screen or you will be looking at replacing the entire CPAS. Clean from the area where the O ring is down to the bottom of the CPAS. Again be VERY careful with that screen, I can't stress it enough. You can use a lint/fuzz free towel as well. I used an old shirt. I do not have pictures of me actually cleaning the CPAS...I only have 2 arms You will want to pay close attention to the circles within the screen...that is where the buildup is usually located. Take your time as always and make sure you clean it evenly all the way around.

My Clean CPAS

Reverse the steps to install your newly cleaned CPAS...and DO NOT forget the O ring you took off before cleaning.

*This procedure was done on my 2003 GMC Envoy EXT SLT*

Special Thanks to my Wonderful Husband Mat for doing most of the grunt work, his muscles are much larger than mine and of course to my lovely Phantom for throwing out these codes and teaching both my husband and I that certain products made for vehicles are not made for THIS vehicle. And to everyone here at the NATION! You all have been a huge help, I couldn't be happier being apart of such an amazing community.

And remember with all normal/abnormal vehicle maintenance take your time and be patient. And most of all don't be scared to ask questions, no matter how stupid you may think it is.

 

[Fire06]

Nice how to Voymom 2 thumbs up..

 

[Mark20]

Great job!

 

[woody79]

Great Job! I think this may come in handy soon. My truck threw a P0014 code a few months ago but went away after an oil change. Maybe this can become a preventive maintance step for people?

 

[Jman423]

I won't be able to work on Article submissions for a week or two, but if you could add the generic info that is at the top of all other articles, it will help get it published quicker when I am able to get to it.

Thanks

 

[Voymom]

I won't be able to work on Article submissions for a week or two, but if you could add the generic info that is at the top of all other articles, it will help get it published quicker when I am able to get to it.

Thanks

Ahh that info lol sure thing, I completely forgot!

 

[Voymom]

I won't be able to work on Article submissions for a week or two, but if you could add the generic info that is at the top of all other articles, it will help get it published quicker when I am able to get to it.

Thanks

Difficulty: Easy
Estimated Time: 25 minutes including cleaning time
Cost: $5.00-$10.00 for a can of Throttle body cleaner
Equipment needed: 10mm, 13mm sockets, 1/4in ratchet, towels, tooth brush and throttle body cleaner.

 

[bastenblood]

Last winter I had to replace the O² sensor on the manifold because the truck smelled gas and runs bad , so
instead of cleaning it I bought a new CPAS , a Delco one .

I'm planning to replace it on my own , so do I need to do anything special except from disconnecting the battery
for 30+ minutes .Any relearn needed ?

Thanks in advance

 

[Sparky]

Nope.

 

[Dillyo82]

Nice! Can't wait to do this to mine! I've had a hesitation every now and then while idling like it wants to stall. Not hard to do and couldn't hurt to checkoff another thing that I've done in the engine area.

 

[mubai]

6500 miles since my last oil change. Guess what? It's about that time: P0014. Will need to clean this thing tomorrow. I used my code reader to erase the code, so I didn't have to look at that stupid SES light.

 

[mbrugh]

Hey great preventive maintence tip on the 4200 engine.I just purchased a 04 TB LS with 122,112k. I don't know the history of what has
been done the the power train. Any more great tips you have to share would be appreciated.

 

[Dillyo82]

Hey great preventive maintence tip on the 4200 engine.I just purchased a 04 TB LS with 122,112k. I don't know the history of what has
been done the the power train. Any more great tips you have to share would be appreciated.

You could get a K&N Air Filter, Upgrade your O2 sensor, Clean your MAF Sensor (In your Air Intake Tube), and Change your Spark Plugs with the correct OEM Plugs.

 

[Fire06]

Hey great preventive maintence tip on the 4200 engine.I just purchased a 04 TB LS with 122,112k. I don't know the history of what has
been done the the power train. Any more great tips you have to share would be appreciated.

Change your drive train fluids. Transfer case takes only GM type oil I think is call GM Stabilitrac 2. Front and rear diffs and transmission oil then you are good to go with the other stuf you are doing.

 

[Sparky]

You could get a K&N Air Filter, Upgrade your O2 sensor, Clean your MAF Sensor (In your Air Intake Tube), and Change your Spark Plugs with the correct OEM Plugs.

I recommend against that.

 

[triz]

Mine is working though I have a small leak from it. Anyone know if there is a O-ring available for it?

 

[Dillyo82]

I recommend against that.

Against what?

 

[Playsinsnow]

Against what?

"You could get a K&N Air Filter"

I've put a 100k on a stock 4.2 with a K&N, 118k now. Can't use too much oil and have to let it dry before reinstall. Mpgs are the same as day one.

I can't imagine how much or what process others have used with the oil. Sucking to the MAF and into tb and intake is nuts. I've put combined ~300k miles with k&n's. 2 cars not 30 cars... Just to clarify...

 

[Dillyo82]

I've put over 60k on mine since I put on the K&N with no evidence of the Filter Oil getting into the MAF or TB. I regularly (Every 3-4k miles) clean the MAF and cleaned the TB once about 25K miles ago. It made a difference when I took the TB off and then cleaned everything carefully with the right Cleaners (IE: Electrical Cleaner and TB Cleaner) {do not submerse in anything}. Was a little gummy and difficult to clean the Ring of Crap that built-up next to the Butterfly (Helped with Idling Issues). I also check in the Intake tube often and never have seen dirt or oil inside...the K&N is working as it should AND it's cheaper over the life of your car than the Paper Filters.

 

[Boog2006]

Thanks for this write up! Mine was fouled exactly like yours and runs great now with no codes!

 

[crown396]

Has anybody had problems with the electronic connector for the CPAS being filled with oil? My truck was running sluggish and not able to get over 60 mph. found this connector filled with oil. I am still wrenching on differant things. when my '02 TB is up and running again i will post more. pics and results.

thanks

 

[The_Roadie]

Has anybody had problems with the electronic connector for the CPAS being filled with oil?

Welcome!

Many, many posters report this. Sometimes it doesn't affect the circuit, and other times it's the root cause of problems.

 

[crown396]

I found this PDF on motor.com talking about holding the timing chain while R&R the CPAS. It does a good job explaining the workings of the system too. just thought i would share.

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082009_09.pdf

Welcome!

Many, many posters report this. Sometimes it doesn't affect the circuit, and other times it's the root cause of problems.

 

[Dillyo82]

I found this PDF on motor.com talking about holding the timing chain while R&R the CPAS. It does a good job explaining the workings of the system too. just thought i would share.

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082009_09.pdf

NICE! Thanks.

The PDF says the CPAS was updated in 2005. Can the older engines accept the Newer CPAS by a simple swap? Benefits?

My CPAS plug also filled with oil. I had no code, but noticed it, cleaned with electrical cleaner and coated it with liquid electric tape 10k miles ago...no code.

 

[DenaliHD66]

Not sure what code mine was throwing exactly, but my CPAS is leaking oil, and there was even oil found in the wiring harness connected to it. Waiting on the wiring harness then replacing both.

I too, ran that Walmart "engine restorer" in my engine just to try it out... and this was about 3 weeks ago. But I do have 118k miles and have never touched the CPAS so hard to say if that caused it or if it was already bad.

 

[Dillyo82]

Didn't see a response from the question by Crown396...
The PDF that Crown396 posted said to use a J-4417 tool to hold the Timing Chain Tensioner from tightening up when the actuator was removed.
I did a search online, but couldn't find a supplier to buy it from. Is it really a concern? is there another Technique used to prevent this from happening without using this "J Tool"?

 

[Envoy_04]

Didn't see a response from the question by Crown396...
The PDF that Crown396 posted said to use a J-4417 tool to hold the Timing Chain Tensioner from tightening up when the actuator was removed.
I did a search online, but couldn't find a supplier to buy it from. Is it really a concern? is there another Technique used to prevent this from happening without using this "J Tool"?

I believe the article is referring to the sensor on the front of the engine that you can see near the serpentine belt. Its the one that the handle of your breaker bar will hit when replacing the belt. The CPAS talked about in this thread is what the article calls the oil control solenoid or something of that nature. R&R on it requires no special tools.

 

[Dillyo82]

I believe the article is referring to the sensor on the front of the engine that you can see near the serpentine belt. Its the one that the handle of your breaker bar will hit when replacing the belt. The CPAS talked about in this thread is what the article calls the oil control solenoid or something of that nature. R&R on it requires no special tools.

The Actuator is the CPAS right?
"A word on R&R procedures is merited here. To replace the actuator on the 4200 L6, you have to pull the intake, alternator and few other choice components just to get the cam cover off. About the time you get all of that done,it’s easy to get anxious and just remove the actuator from the front of the camshaft. Don’t! If you do, the timing chain tensioner will ratchet the chain down as you slide the actuator off. If you thought you had to do a lot of work to get this far, just wait until you start pulling the front cover off and find out you have to remove the oil pan."

I have 4WD and don't want to be pulling Half-Shafts out

 

[crown396]

Didn't see a response from the question by Crown396...
The PDF that Crown396 posted said to use a J-4417 tool to hold the Timing Chain Tensioner from tightening up when the actuator was removed.
I did a search online, but couldn't find a supplier to buy it from. Is it really a concern? is there another Technique used to prevent this from happening without using this "J Tool"?

update.
replaced CPAS, thermostat, water pump, & radiator(thanks to the shop for putting a hole in my old rad), and wires to the CPAS. still no power. and my new $15 bluetooth odb2 scan tool doesn't stay connected to the laptop. im thinking i need a new BT dongle for the pc. ODB data loging works nice when it is connected though. now just need log correct parameters for the tuners to spot the problem.

& yes i took mine to the shop for $70 to replace the CPAS just incase the timing chain tension did matter.

frustrated

 

[Envoy_04]

The Actuator is the CPAS right?
"A word on R&R procedures is merited here. To replace the actuator on the 4200 L6, you have to pull the intake, alternator and few other choice components just to get the cam cover off. About the time you get all of that done,it’s easy to get anxious and just remove the actuator from the front of the camshaft. Don’t! If you do, the timing chain tensioner will ratchet the chain down as you slide the actuator off. If you thought you had to do a lot of work to get this far, just wait until you start pulling the front cover off and find out you have to remove the oil pan."

I have 4WD and don't want to be pulling Half-Shafts out

The CPAS, as it is referred to on this site, is the thing on the side of the head that you have to take the power steering pump off to get to. It DOES NOT require anything for removal and reinstallation but simple sockets and a ratchet, and as far as I know it has no interference with the timing chain. As I stated before, the piece that sticks out on the FRONT of the engine that looks similar is the piece that the PDF is referring to as the one that needs timing chain retention tools for R&R. When you think about the orientation of a timing chain in a motor this makes sense.

If you need to replace or clean your CPAS, follow the steps that the OP laid out and you will be fine, trust me. Been there and done this - once to clean the one on my Envoy and then again to replace it because the connector had oil in it, and a third time to clean/inspect the one on Mom's 06 Envoy. Never a timing issue yet.

 

[Dillyo82]

That settles it. Someone that has done it multiple times. It does make sense with how the orientation of the timing chain wouldn't interfere with the CPAS. I think it's the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) that is the part that would need the Chain retention tool. I did want to replace that while I was in there, but dont need to blindly throw parts at it. I know the CPAS has a leaky plug, but no CES lights have ever came on for it. All I have had is 13-14MPG, a rich smelling idle at start-up and a Stumbling Idle every now and then. I do put Synthetic Oil in the engine and change it every 6-8 months or 8k mi. I need to change it more often with just regular Full Synthetic and not Extended Performance 15k mile oil.

 

[Dillyo82]

That settles it. Someone that has done it multiple times. It does make sense with how the orientation of the timing chain wouldn't interfere with the CPAS. I think it's the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) that is the part that would need the Chain retention tool. I did want to replace that while I was in there, but dont need to blindly throw parts at it. I know the CPAS has a leaky plug, but no CES lights have ever came on for it. All I have had is 13-14MPG, a rich smelling idle at start-up and a Stumbling Idle every now and then. I do put Synthetic Oil in the engine and change it every 6-8 months or 8k mi. I need to change it more often with just regular Full Synthetic and not Extended Performance 15k mile oil.

I take that back about the CPS needing tools. I see videos that show no chain tool being used.
[video=youtube_share;1ZRpcAAbNVw]http://youtu.be/1ZRpcAAbNVw[/video]

I guess Neither the CPS or CPAS need a Chain retention/tension tool to replace.

 

[crown396]

update.
replaced CPAS, thermostat, water pump, & radiator(thanks to the shop for putting a hole in my old rad), and wires to the CPAS. still no power. and my new $15 bluetooth odb2 scan tool doesn't stay connected to the laptop. im thinking i need a new BT dongle for the pc. ODB data loging works nice when it is connected though. now just need log correct parameters for the tuners to spot the problem.

& yes i took mine to the shop for $70 to replace the CPAS just incase the timing chain tension did matter.

frustrated

the problem with working alone on a this vehical is you can't step on the gas pedel and see the butterfly valve in the throttle body NOT MOVING!!!

 

[Juicy K]

This worked great to clear up the P0014 code on my fathers 05' EXT. Tami posted A Lot of pictures, but don't let that mislead you, this is a really short and easy process.

Thanks again VOYMOM!!!

 

[Grimor]

flag for when I get un-demotivated

 

[IllogicTC]

the problem with working alone on a this vehical is you can't step on the gas pedel and see the butterfly valve in the throttle body NOT MOVING!!!

No, but if the system detects you're holding the gas pedal in one position and the butterfly's stuck in another, you'll get the REP light, so it pretty well figures itself out.

As for the timing chain retention: This is for the ACTUAL ACTUATOR. The CPAS is not an actuator, it's a solenoid that supplies oil TO the actuator. That's what all the holes are about. The actual actuator (or cam phaser) is a part on the end of the exhaust camshaft, directly connected to it (and thus the gears and timing chain) for the purpose of working the angles. The CPAS just pretty much acts like a valve to direct the phaser's motions. The position sensor also is unrelated to the timing chain, it's pretty much a little doo-hicky that picks up magnetic signals. The phaser has some parts around the outer radius that relays this information to the sensor.

The voice in the video is reaaaaalllly annoying, but gives a decent explanation of the system:

[video=youtube;ry2nP7I315M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ry2nP7I315M[/video]

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Still need to change my oil and see if that gets rid of the code or determine if I need to replace it again. After long highway trips I get the 0014, but if I clear it it wont come back for a couple key on and off driving cycles.

 

[IllogicTC]

At least replacement is pretty simple. Getting ready to do one myself when the part comes in. I was getting a little over 15MPG on my road on summer blend, now I'm down into low 13s consistently, and of course p0014 popping up. I figured just swap, have the one with the springs over the screens, and be done with it and hold onto the old one if it's in good shape as a backup.

 

[IllogicTC]

Replaced, and after two days of 40-minute round trip drives to work, it appears to have satisfied the condition. I could have cleaned mine, except the pressing that combines the outside half to the inside half appears to have partially separated as I could rotate them independently. Usually by the time I was almost to work (20 minutes of driving) the code would be confirmed, it would usually be pending by 5 minutes before.

I'll tinker with the old part some more, if it turns out it's still usable I might hold it for an emergency replacement. This guide, while I didn't do the cleaning part of it, certainly helped me build the confidence to go through with this project. It seems daunting, pulling something out of the side of your block that is a pretty important part, but it's not bad at all. Installation is pretty snug, by the way. Anyone who hasn't ever had this part out before, when reinstalling you might note it feels a bit snug. Just take your time, go slow, and give it some SLIGHT wiggling if needed to aid it in.

 

[jeffro312]

So I purchased a cpas off rockauto was in a rush got it for 29 bux it's an airtex part number 2t1012

Is this one of those picky parts

Also looks different as seen below I remember screens with circles behind them. This is my new part

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