FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS and HUBS on a 2005 4.2

[Petnatcar]

Hi Guys,
Any of you guys have problems with replacement Wheel Bearings and Hubs?

I had a Left Front Bearing and Hub replaced in September and in only two months it sounds worse then the old one did.
The shop is gonna do it over for free and they said they used NAPA parts but they didn't save the part number and
that maybe they bought the lower grade part ?
I never got the memo about the better part or I would have got that.

My question is : where do I get high quality replacement hubs and parts ?

As you probably already know the prices and quality of any part is all over the place with
OEM being the most expensive but I gotta believe the OEM stuff is the best.

$80-90 on Amazon for 2 hubs or $190 from GMC for 1 .

What do you guys think and where would you buy the new parts?

Thanks,
Peter Carbone

 

[TequilaWarrior]

Personally, RockAuto has been my go to for parts for years. I've gotten some stuff off of Amazon and eBay, but the vast majority of it I've purchased from RockAuto.

RockAuto's pricing is not far off of what you've stated, For what it's worth, GM (AC/Delco) doesn't actually make their own wheel hubs for this platform, they rebox/rebrand someone else's made under contract for them and I think they use more than one supplier, leading to somewhat "variable" results.

I've changed both front wheel hubs at least 3 times (that I can remember), maybe more. It gets a little fuzzy as I've done rotor/pad replacements at least that many times as well - sometimes together, sometimes not, sometimes with a caliper replacement, sometimes not. With around 300k miles, that's not that much.

This platform basically eats front wheel bearings. As "heavy duty" as the bearings seem and as well-engineered as they are, they're just not big enough for the weight. It's even worse with a 5.3 or 6.0.

These also have a quirk that many vehicles don't.... the normal procedure for determining which wheel bearing is going bad can lead to replacing the "wrong" side on these. Many of us, when we need to change a wheel hub, just replace BOTH (and remove/toss the brake dust shields while everything is apart). This helps ensure that they're both in good shape and helps prevent issues with the ABS module freaking out over contradicting information coming from the wheel speed sensors on both sides. It sucks, but it prevents issues. Do both, cry once.

As for NAPA parts: NAPA today is not the NAPA from 30 years ago. A long time ago I used to get a lot of parts through NAPA and they often were the least expensive option for "good" parts. Today, the entire car parts market is commoditized. Half of even the name brands are just repacked Chinese parts - and many times they don't bother to change the packaging, just slap a label on it. If you didn't hold the box in your hand personally, you have no guarantees that what they installed wasn't the cheapest Chinese knock-off available, even if they sourced it through NAPA.

It may not be feasible for you to do your own work but if it is, there's plenty of help available here to guide you. Conversely, mechanics that know this platform well are getting harder to find.

 

[TollKeeper]

Better quality is really subjective. There are only 2-3 bearing markers, and they all rebrand to whoever the reseller is. China, Mexico, and Spain/Brazil.

I have actually had the best luck with the bearings from Mexico.

 

[Petnatcar]

Gracias amigo!

I got 114,000 miles out of the original hub and 114 miles from the replacement.

Your suggestion for replacing both sides is an excellent idea but that little voice in my head keeps saying"if it ain't broke don't fix it" and the other little voice is saying "how much longer do you think that other bearing will last if one side just burned out" ?
The GM Parts from Rock Auto are $168 each but look appealing. I hope they're the right ones.

Achy joints prevent me from doing more of my own work these days especially during winter in an unheated garage but I still get after the cosmetic things like dents and rust.

As a joke I called the Chevy Dealer and I can get one hub from them for $427 plus tax and probably shipping and handling. I only paid $1,500 for the car with 93k miles.

What's the difference between the Original GM Parts online and the parts from the dealership ???

Thanks again for your help.
All the best,
Peter

 

[TequilaWarrior]

Gracias amigo!

I got 114,000 miles out of the original hub and 114 miles from the replacement.

Your suggestion for replacing both sides is an excellent idea but that little voice in my head keeps saying"if it ain't broke don't fix it" and the other little voice is saying "how much longer do you think that other bearing will last if one side just burned out" ?
The GM Parts from Rock Auto are $168 each but look appealing. I hope they're the right ones.

Achy joints prevent me from doing more of my own work these days especially during winter in an unheated garage but I still get after the cosmetic things like dents and rust.

As a joke I called the Chevy Dealer and I can get one hub from them for $427 plus tax and probably shipping and handling. I only paid $1,500 for the car with 93k miles.

What's the difference between the Original GM Parts online and the parts from the dealership ???

Thanks again for your help.
All the best,
Peter

That's part of why we typically replace them in pairs. If one has gone bad, the likelihood of the other going bad soon is high enough to justify replacing it preemptively.

I understand achy joints... my arthritis keeps me from doing a lot of things I'd normally do.

I have zero confidence that any one dealer's parts are genuine any more. Even GM Parts Online could be receiving fakes/knock-offs. Like @TollKeeper said, there really are only 3 manufacturers (almost literally) and everything you see in a box is one of those 3(ish). We have demonstrated over the years that some brands will actually switch suppliers without changing packaging or price. So we've seen high dollar brands with a history of reliability suddenly start shipping low-quality parts without any indication that anything has changed. Suddenly, that $450 wheel hub you just paid for at the dealer looks identical to the $38 wheel hub I just ordered from RockAuto. Even the well-established big-name bearing manufacturers have been guilty of this over the years (cough, Timken, cough) when they've had supply or manpower difficulties.

 

[Mike of Maine]

I am experiencing similar issues with Moog and Rock Auto. 3 different parts in the same Moog packaging. 2 different manufacturers by looks, 1 cheapo even marked as Moog but the joint is tiny and junk like other unit. (I am still waiting to hear back from Moog about this)
I imagine for each time someone catches a cheapo rebrand or has a problem, there are 5+ who get away with it simply because of uneducated consumers.
I buy Timken and Moog hubs for my Envoy because I have good luck as a general statement. That said, I have to replace a pair of Timken that I think burned up a little early.
I think there are people who are reboxing, remarking cheap junk parts and sellibg to us.
It seems like its up to us to determine if we received the level of quality that we expect from the brand we ordered or if we've been 'repackaged'. That's only based on the packaging and the appearance and finish of the part.
Durability becomes a crapshoot.
If 'my brand' is reboxing from different manufacturers, it seems unlikely that I can expect to get a consistent lifespan out of the part.
The fact that an alignment is needed after "rolling the dice" with questionable parts just compounds the "suck" of the whole deal.
Buy good brands from a reputable source, personally inspect the parts before they get installed to see if they look legit. I mentioned Rockauto because I considered them a good source where as an unknown flea-bay dealer, "you get what you get" in my experience... ppl are shady sometimes.

 

[Petnatcar]

I ordered the Original GM Parts from Rock Auto for $168 per side. I never like the cheapest but usually the better then average.
It's confusing because they offer so many brands from Economy to Standard to Heavy Duty but I didn't recognize any of the other names so I'm hoping the one that says GM will be okay.
I'm not a mechanic so how do I know if you got a good part or not?

Rock Auto is quick I just ordered the part and it'll be here tomorrow for $11 shipping !!!

Thanks,
Pete

 

[Mike of Maine]

Hi Pete.
In my case the issue presented itself. I posted pics and everything! Lol!

*OFFICIAL* RockAuto complaints thread

I own a lot of cars and used to buy frequently at RockAuto. No longer. I am boycotting them and will use their competition from now on. They have instituted a website only customer service that is horrible. No more human interaction by telephone. I had a small order of around $100. I never...

gmtnation.com

When you get the parts, compare packaging, literature and the part itself. If nothing else, they should be the same.
That was red flag #1 for me.
Compare the pic on Rock Auto website to the part in your hands. Look at the paint, rust protection, options (like does it have the speed sensor with the hub, it should, hardware included?) Make sure what you ordered is what you have.
It sounds like your mechanics have an idea of the differences you might find in different quality hubs. I would DEF ask about these. Make sure the shop feels good about installing them. They are redoing the job for free because they got you (poss) the lower grade parts, right?
This time YOU supplied so its on you.
Your shop sounds like they want to make you happy so this should be an easy step!
Btw, replacing hubs in pairs was/is the wise choice. Good call!

 

[Petnatcar]

Hi Pete.
In my case the issue presented itself. I posted pics and everything! Lol!

*OFFICIAL* RockAuto complaints thread

I own a lot of cars and used to buy frequently at RockAuto. No longer. I am boycotting them and will use their competition from now on. They have instituted a website only customer service that is horrible. No more human interaction by telephone. I had a small order of around $100. I never...

gmtnation.com

When you get the parts, compare packaging, literature and the part itself. If nothing else, they should be the same.
That was red flag #1 for me.
Compare the pic on Rock Auto website to the part in your hands. Look at the paint, rust protection, options (like does it have the speed sensor with the hub, it should, hardware included?) Make sure what you ordered is what you have.
It sounds like your mechanics have an idea of the differences you might find in different quality hubs. I would DEF ask about these. Make sure the shop feels good about installing them. They are redoing the job for free because they got you (poss) the lower grade parts, right?
This time YOU supplied so its on you.
Your shop sounds like they want to make you happy so this should be an easy step!
Btw, replacing hubs in pairs was/is the wise choice. Good call!

Yes Mike, they bought the parts last time but I will look more closely at the parts I got this time as you suggest.

 

[Mike of Maine]

While I am not sure of the actual manufacturer of the OE parts, I will say that in most cases they use quality that will at least get thru warranty period. You have likely just purchased a quality pair of hubs.

 

[TollKeeper]

I bought a single Carquest wheel bearing for my Saturn. These wheel bearings also fit my Aztek.

I bought 6 more of these from Detroit Axle.

I could not find a difference in-between them from the Carquest to Detroit Axle, other than price and the box they come in.

Same numbers on the wheel bearings, same color seals, same accessories (clips and retainers).

 

[TequilaWarrior]

Not to jump on the "Car Parts Quality Complaint Wagon", but....
I've ordered pairs of parts from the same RockAuto warehouse and have had them show up as two very different parts. Same "fit and function", but radically different quality and/or packaging. The worst that I can recall was a pair of calipers for my wife's Escape. I ordered coated front calipers and they arrived with 2 different coatings. The worst was that the coating on one of them came off when I sprayed them down with brake cleaner after installation! RockAuto was willing to replace it, but I couldn't go without a caliper for that long.

A word of caution handling your wheel bearings.... They'll likely arrive inside a decent box with either a cardboard tube over the lugs or a cardboard honeycomb covering the lugs. The wheel speed sensor cable will likely be wrapped around the hub itself in the packaging. BE CAREFUL. I've dropped hubs and broken off the wheel speed sensor altogether... I've also seen where the sensor cable has been gouged/cut by the hub itself being bounced around in the package.

As for quality of the hub - most of these look GORGEOUS, even the "cheap" ones. You can usually discern the level of quality in the "feel" of the hub. Spin the hub in your hands. It will feel "tight" and maybe a little "mushy". The "mushy" feel is from the grease used inside the sealed hub. No matter what, it should feel "tight" and have no play whatsoever. Check the quality on the wheel speed sensor cable. Most will include the clip that holds the cable to the strut, preinstalled. There should be a sleeve over the entire length of the cable. Check the lugs. The threads should be pristine, with no dings or dents. Lugs should be installed fully in the hub before shipment - i.e. you shouldn't have to "snug" them after installation. The actual markings on the hub are effectively immaterial at this point as we've seen Timken bearings in AC/Delco boxes, ChiCom bearings in Timken boxes, all kinds of variable situations all of which the brands say is "normal". However, a good quality bearing will have its markings laser engraved. I've seen super cheap bearings with "silkscreened" markings.... that's an immediate hard pass for me.

Reject the hub if any of these are found: dinged/dented/loose lugs, gouged/cut cable, broken sensor, loose bearing itself (too much play), RUST (some surface rust MAY be acceptable, but nothing that penetrates in any way)

 

[Mooseman]

There's an old discussion about different hubs. A little dated and I have since heard that SKF has gone downhill in quality.

Power Stop/Kinetic wheel bearing hubs?

I'm usually a big Timken fan for hubs but money is tight right now and I have at least one going bad with the usual noise and the other possibly bent. Was looking at cheap alternatives and found these on Amazon...

gmtnation.com

 

[Mike of Maine]

Excellent point. Check the bearing rotation even if they are new. Should be nice and smooth with some rolling resistance. I got a pair of "Timken" from Amazon. They felt like the bearings had surface rusted on the shelf. Like there were magic crystals of "special grease" in them. It felt like tiny glass breaking in them as they spun.
Neither company would replace them even though they were still "new in box" which brings me back to the importance of buying from a reputable source. Last time buying from Amazon.
The Mevotrash hub I got was the HD version, whatever. Fancy blue paint blah blah... the bearing felt like it was made of plastic or maybe the seal hard hardened somehow. It didn't last a month and drivers side was squealing again. I didn't even bother with the return process. $150 reminder sitting on my garage floor.
I replace in pairs as well however no Timken was avail so I thought I would try a "Heavy duty". I got lucky that I didn't replace both this time.
I don't see how there could be and difference in "duty" here. Its all in bearing design and quality. I have noticed no variations in anyones design otherwise. Anyways, the "junk" Timken on the right outlasted the "junk" Timken AND the Mevotrash Fancy HD hubs on left.

 

[Mike534x]

I would never purchase Mevotech, I almost bought a set of sway bar links and I recall sometime ago Mooseman complaining about them being straight trash along with a few other members on the board.

I've literally just replaced the hubs on my Envoy within the last 1-2 weeks. I opted for a Timken and Moog (Timken was open box new, and the Moog as well saving some cash), did the ritual of generously spraying Fluid Film around the speed sensors to protect that area from rusting out. Anyway, back on track. I did my hubs back in 2020 during the Pandemic, and went with SKF hubs at the time....because well....I was told SKF was a pretty good reputable brand. Lo and behold, 20k later and both were shot. Drivers side was completely gone, took significant effort to spin it by hand, and the passenger side was the "metal on metal" grindy feeling when spinning it. New hubs in, and the vibration and groaning I had was gone.

After being burned by a few aftermarket companies, I've got a pretty narrow list of who I would actually buy parts from nowadays. My go to, depending on what's needed is;

Moog
Timken
AC Delco Professional/Gold (Mostly for sway bar links, they've outlived all the pairs of Moogs so far).
Delphi/Denso (I've had great luck with their O2 Sensors/Coil Packs/Ignition wires)
Bendix/Akebono for brake pads
NGK (Spark Plugs. Only from RockAuto, Amazon's been flooded with fakes as of late).
Bilstein for anything shock/strut. They won me over.

And this one is a bit of an outlier, but TRQ has surprised me as well. I replaced the rear trailing arms on a buddys Envoy and they literally felt and looked like the Moog ones at a cheaper cost (for a set of 4). So far, they haven't failed yet and that was 4-5 years ago.

 

[Mike of Maine]

ordered the Original GM Parts from Rock Auto

How did you make out with your order Pete?
I never tried to use the OE, I'm also curious about the longevity.

would never purchase Mevotech, I almost bought a set of sway bar links and I recall sometime ago Mooseman complaining about them being straight trash along with a few other members on the board.

I am pretty sure this was before they earned their rep. Either way, I agree 100%, it is dolled up junk! I would say that as a general rule, I have had great sucess following the brands recommended by the members here. The response here about hub branding and experience is great info!

 

[paul2005tb]

well it happened at 150k miles. I hear a vibration coming from my front left driver side wheel, I drove is with that vibration for two weeks before it registered in my head that something was definitely wrong.

So I finally got to lifting the left front of the vehicle and sure enough, there was about a 1/16in - 1/8in of play in that hub. So it is time to replace the hub, Ill make my order today and hope that I get a warm dry day to get this job done.

 

[BayWolf]

I'm in need of at least one hub. I'm guessing the "Timken" ones on ebay for ~$65 are fakes, right?

 

[mrrsm]

Visit RockAuto at THIS Link...and *Pick Your Poison* from a LONG List of Wheel Hubs ranging from 'cheap' to Extravagant in Price & Quality:

2003 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 4.2L L6 Wheel Bearing & Hub | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

THIS is the Part Number to use:



Summit Racing also carries "Name Brand" TIMKEN Wheel Hubs:

Timken Wheel Bearing and Hub Assemblies - Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing

Find Timken Wheel Bearing and Hub Assemblies and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing! Timken Bearing wheel bearing and hub assemblies are the key to restoring your vehicle's smooth and safe ride. They're made to meet or exceed OEM specifications and are available for a variety...

www.summitracing.com

 

[Mooseman]

I'm in need of at least one hub. I'm guessing the "Timken" ones on ebay for ~$65 are fakes, right?

Likely. At RA, they go for $177cad + shipping.

 

[Petnatcar]

Hi Guys,
Here's the update on the Front Hubs and Bearings Soap Opera:

The "One Year Warranty NAPA Hub" was no good so I had it and the other side replaced with the 3 year warranty NAPA Hubs.
They sound better than ever or I should say they don't make any humming noise at all !!!
After purchasing the GM Original Equipment ones from ROCK AUTO for $175 each I sent them back because there was no clear warranty displayed.
What ever "LIMITED LIFETIME" means? But the most disconcerting thing was that you can't talk to anybody at Rock Auto !!!!! There's no talking to another human being.
Everything is done via email so you can't ask any questions regarding the warranty.

Anyways the truck feels much better than it has in years and a minor miracle also happened,
THE ABS LIGHT WENT OUT !!!!!!!
Obviously the other front hub sensor was the culprit, so I'm really glad I changed that.
The brakes always worked but the ABS light has been on since I bought the truck 6 years ago.

Replacing only one side with the NAPA Hub set me back $350 ($225 part + $125 labor) but now I have 2 new NAPA Hubs with a 3 year warranty.

THANK YOU to the member who recommended changing both hubs at the same time.

Regards to all,
Pete Carbone

 

[paul2005tb]

I panicked with winter cold and sleet coming and rushed and ordered the Detroit axle brand on Amazon. Made in china, ugh. Don't curse me out too bad every brand I saw was made in china. I would have thought that OEM new old stock would still be plentiful. Took me all of last night to remove the existing one, will install the new one tomorrow. My next task is to figure out how to disassemble the old hub and replace the bearings.

 

[Petnatcar]

There shouldn't be any disassembly, this is a bolt on unit.
Remove the big nut on the end of the axle, slide the hub and bearing off and slide the new unit on.

Check the videos on You Tube. They are very helpful.

removing front hubs on 2005 chevy ytrtailblazer - Google Search

Good luck,
Pete

 

[paul2005tb]

There shouldn't be any disassembly, this is a bolt on unit.
Remove the big nut on the end of the axle, slide the hub and bearing off and slide the new unit on.

Check the videos on You Tube. They are very helpful.

removing front hubs on 2005 chevy ytrtailblazer - Google Search

Good luck,
Pete

I realize the installation of the new hub is straight forward. I was referring to the possibility of rebuilding the original hub. If I can I'll put it on the shelf as a backup.

 

[Mooseman]

They're not rebuildable. They are sealed units and don't come apart. So much so that you can run these without the axle shafts, as per the non-4x4 trucks.

 

[paul2005tb]

They're not rebuildable. They are sealed units and don't come apart. So much so that you can run these without the axle shafts, as per the non-4x4 trucks.

Ok, in the dumpster it goes. But it makes me wonder how did the manufacturer assemble the hub, there must be a standard bearing assembly inside it. Im going to guess that the outer hub was heated up, expanded and the inner bearing and spline assembly was pressed into it. Drove around and the new hub is perfect, very smooth and quiet.


Question, how important is that sheet metal brake dust cover that bolts on the interior side of the hub ? .. I forgot to put it back on.

 

[Mooseman]

Completely unimportant. In fact, we remove them as they usually rust out. Even our safety inspection standard says they don't have to be there to pass.

 

[paul2005tb]

Completely unimportant. In fact, we remove them as they usually rust out. Even our safety inspection standard says they don't have to be there to pass.

I think you are right, my inspection of it suggests to me that while the sheet metal does somewhat protect the inboard side rotor, it does nothing to protect the exposed cv joint/hub interface in the hollow of that main steering yoke. That is where a small amount of water spray is likely getting into the hub and causing havoc. When salt is on the roads, its very bad.

 

[TollKeeper]

I panicked with winter cold and sleet coming and rushed and ordered the Detroit axle brand on Amazon. Made in china, ugh. Don't curse me out too bad every brand I saw was made in china. I would have thought that OEM new old stock would still be plentiful. Took me all of last night to remove the existing one, will install the new one tomorrow. My next task is to figure out how to disassemble the old hub and replace the bearings.View attachment 110545

My Detroit Axle units are still going strong on my Envoy.. As I have said before.. I dont have issues with their wheel bearings.. Its everything else!

 

[paul2005tb]

Question: I overtorqued my main hub nut to 160ft-lbs... is that a problem.. Should I reset it to 100 ft-lbs ?

 

[TollKeeper]

I would reset it..

 

[Mooseman]

Agreed.

 

[paul2005tb]

I reset it to 100 ft-lbs. Brought it in for the state safety inspection and the inspector really does check the hub bearing play. He puts a jack under there, lifts each side and determines if there is any play. I passed with flying colors !..I feel like a billionaire !!

 

[Petnatcar]

Hi Guys,
One more thing of note regarding the ROCK AUTO Hubs: Although you can't speak to a human regarding a return and it might take a few minutes to figure out the Return Procedure I did get my refund in a reasonable length of time. Plus the return fee was only $7.48 !!! This would have cost 3 times as much if I had to mail it myself. Unfortunately I'll never know just how good the hubs might have been because their warranty was rather vague. At least I'll get 3 years with the NAPA hubs.

Pete Carbone