Front suspension - nearly full rebuild required

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Weather is warming up, I'm gearing up to do a fairly major overhaul on the front end. Started researching parts/sources/threads about 3 days ago, and now I have over 37 tabs spread across 5 browser instances, all full of conflicting outdated info...time to ask for help & input. I KNOW it's long, but this is the summary of 3 days worth of fruitless searching.....

Background:

Truck bought July 2012 with 171,000 km. Have since put another 60k on it. Both front and rear suspension components are OE, except for LBJs & End Links (both Moog, greasable) and AC Delco sway bar bushings. This winter's temperature cycling to extremes, plus the effect of that on local roads, has really taken it's toll. Inner tie rods are shot, control arm bushings are shot, shocks are shot (and may well have been when I bought it!), springs sag 1/2" on left side vs right (front and rear), front struts show signs of leakage, rear end bounces too much, clanky noise from front end is most likely the bushings (end links still tight). ETC....

When I bought the truck, I bought it online based on pics and price. Took a 2 hr train ride to pick it up (didn't finalize deal until after thorough inspection & test drive), and while on the highway drove home, my initial impression was that it was overly isolated from the road and "floaty" - I chalked that up to the subjective difference between my old Montana that I'd driven into the ground with no maintenance and a 7 year newer more upscale vehicle. In hindsight, that may not have been the entire explanation.

I do a pretty consistent 3200km a month, with a pretty consistent 65/35 city highway split. The only day it gets a little rest is Sundays, otherwise it's driven 4+ hours every day. I do no towing, and it's very unlikely for the foreseeable future. Once in a while I load it pretty heavy with astro and photo gear and drive it to some more remote dark sky site. Even though I don't hesitate to travel some pretty rough back country logging and camp roads, they are still roads of a sort - no real offroading, no future intentions on lifting it ( and unwilling to sacrifice the litte gains I did see with the PCM4 tune). Body, power train, interior are all in pretty excellent shape. I can see this vehicle lasting another 5 years with the right maintenance, but that has to be at the right cost

Objective:

Restore front suspension to full health, as cost effectively as possible. I don't want/need soccer mom cushy ride, and while I am a fairly aggresive driver at times, I also don't need the stiffest suspension for high speed cornering - middle of the road seems probably the best approach given driving style, vehicle use patterns, and my own tolerance levels. I am picky as HELL about noise, vibration, squeaks, rattles, bumps and so on.

I have already decided the smartest way to do this is in one fell swoop. I HATE wasting money on labor/time to repeat things that could have been taken care of previously, even if that means replacing a part that doesn't necessarily seem bad at the moment. EG, the UBJs still seem rock solid...but how long can I realistically expect that to last given the age and the miles I put on it. May as well do them while I have it apart.

Ok that should give people enough to go on to begin to address some of the complications I have tripped over while trying to procure the parts - due to length, I'll just start with one, & post others as follow-ons:

Complications/Problems:

1) Monroe quick struts are out, poorly reviewed in general, I personally question the longevity I could expect. I might consider the Moog ST8564, IF I could determine which spring they use. I can't find that info. That's not all that big a deal, since I'm pretty sure I'd prefer going with the aftermarket bilstein's. Further, I found an excellent deal online for a set of 4 Bilstein HD from a Canadian source with free shipping - the deal puts them pretty much on par with the US dollar pricing, and saves me a trip across the border...no brainer if I can just get enough info to pull the trigger...but then I need new springs, mounts and seats. And that may be preferable for a few reasons anyway.

The issue with that is determining the spring that best matches the OE (not interested in surprise discoveries of ride height changes, or drastically different dynamics). GM put out like 9 different spring rates for this platform (various sources for that info, Navigator did a great summary chart on ORTB). As far as I can tell, there are no colored tag remnants left on mine to offer any hints as to what the GM computer selected for my truck when built (relevant RPO codes are 6HD - SUSPENSION ; 7HD - 8HW - COMP RR LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP ; 9HU - COMP RR RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP ; ZW7 - PREMIUM SMOOTH RIDE SUSPENSION). Also as far as I can tell, Moog aftermarket springs basically collapse the 9 GM parts (15125881 thru 15125889) into 4 parts (81110, 12, 14, 16) each covering a slightly different overlapping range

Now, RockAuto has the Moog 81110 and 81112 coil springs available for my XL as a separate set @ ~$60. Both are a 375lb spring rate, Moog just changes the free height to alter the compression amount & load rating. From RA info, the 81110 covers the OEM range of 1512881, 882, 883 springs, and the 81112 covers the 1512883, 884, 885 range of OEM springs. RA also offers a set of ACDelco front coils at twice the price (equivalant OEM 19261980 - no online source I can find gives any detailed description). RA also has Raybestos coils for ~ 50% more money than the Moog. No info on OEM equivalency, but given their 2340lb load rating and 16.74" free height, these would be the equivalent of Moog 81114's which themselves have OEM coverage of 15125885 & 15125886. Interestingly, the Moog 81114's on RA are only $35 a set, but the vehicle fitment is only indicated to be the '02-'06 TB's and the '04 - '06 Ascenders. As a last bit of info, I did see a few complaints on the forums of the Moog springs showing premature corrosion.

As you can see, I chased that for quite a while with no definitive success. I decided to look into the possibility of getting new OEM AC Delco springs, and went to a few GM parts sites where you can enter your VIN # to aid in parts selection. NewGMParts.com matches my VIN to the 881 spring, whereas GMPartsGiant.com insists I have the 15125885's. (My VIN to plugin for anyone who wants to take a crack: 1GKET16S956134882)

I have not yet called an actual dealer to see what they may say. This is partly due to the fact that the main guy at the local dealership is a useless lazy POS who really doesn't give a fuck what he sells/tells people, and the other is that given the vast amount of conflicting info everywhere else, I wouldn't have any confidence in his answer anyway.

QUESTION 1: HOW THE HELL CAN I FIGURE OUT WHAT SPRING I NEED TO CONSTRUCT MY OWN STRUT?!?!?!??!?

2) The Bilstein HD's I have targeted for this vehicle, and available for the deal described earlier, are the B6 4600 series 103336 & 103350. Oddly, both the Bilstein online catalog and their 2014 application guide say these are NOT a fit for XL/EXT models. I have seen some replies to the contrary by knowledgeable forum members here, on the OS an on ORTB. In fact most of the Bilstein DEALERS contradict what Bilstein says, and puts them up as matches for my truck. I'm pretty confident it's the right shock & strut for my application, but there seems to be a distinct lack of LWB guys who have actually used them. I gotta wonder why.

QUESTION 2: IF THE MANUFACTURER DOESN'T SEEM TO HAVE THE CORRECT INFO ABOUT PARTS APPLICABILITY, HOW DID THEY COMMUNICATE SAID INFO TO THE DEALERS WHO CONTRADICT THAT, AND HOW CAN I BE SURE THEY AREN'T THE ONES WITH BAD INFO??!??!

'NUFF for now, I can close at least 15 tabs and start working on the questions of control arms, brackets, bushings

Thx for any input :smile:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,387
Ottawa, ON
Here's my thoughts on this if I were in your situation. I would try a slightly higher spring rate in the front just to stiffen it a bit and bring the front up a little to try to take out the front rake. I got Bilsteins all around and like the the ride although the rear could have been valved a little better to be a bit stiffer on compression. And yes, the struts fit our extended trucks. If there would be any difference, it could be in the valving for a slightly heavier truck but it wouldn't be that much different in the front end.

Just my 2¢ (rounded up to 5¢ :biggrin:)
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
I'm looking to do my bj's, tie rods, and hubs all at once. (Or bribe hypnotoad :biggrin:) Have HDs with stock springs and it was my cheapest option with HDs.. My springs look great compared to the rest of my undercarriage.

As far as parts go, I have searched here and ORTB for tested parts. I recall reading more about junk or ccc parts than what to go with. Might be Moog and Timken for me. Just hoping my arms/bushings aren't worn.


It really comes down to budget and availability. Personally I am debating buying OEM because they lasted for over 9years. (11/04 production date) I'd be a fool not to use these personally tried and tested parts again. Sometimes the truth hurts. But honestly why not for a daily driver? This does not apply to anyone looking to switch things up, obviously. But if you like the stock ride, why not keep as much OEM as possible?

ORTB build threads are dangerous to my bank accounts.
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
WarGawd said:
The issue with that is determining the spring that best matches the OE (not interested in surprise discoveries of ride height changes, or drastically different dynamics). GM put out like 9 different spring rates for this platform (various sources for that info, Navigator did a great summary chart on ORTB). As far as I can tell, there are no colored tag remnants left on mine to offer any hints as to what the GM computer selected for my truck when built (relevant RPO codes are 6HD - SUSPENSION ; 7HD - 8HW - COMP RR LH COMPUTER SEL SUSP ; 9HU - COMP RR RH COMPUTER SEL SUSP ; ZW7 - PREMIUM SMOOTH RIDE SUSPENSION). Also as far as I can tell, Moog aftermarket springs basically collapse the 9 GM parts (15125881 thru 15125889) into 4 parts (81110, 12, 14, 16) each covering a slightly different overlapping range

Now, RockAuto has the Moog 81110 and 81112 coil springs available for my XL as a separate set @ ~$60. Both are a 375lb spring rate, Moog just changes the free height to alter the compression amount & load rating. From RA info, the 81110 covers the OEM range of 1512881, 882, 883 springs, and the 81112 covers the 1512883, 884, 885 range of OEM springs. RA also offers a set of ACDelco front coils at twice the price (equivalant OEM 19261980 - no online source I can find gives any detailed description). RA also has Raybestos coils for ~ 50% more money than the Moog. No info on OEM equivalency, but given their 2340lb load rating and 16.74" free height, these would be the equivalent of Moog 81114's which themselves have OEM coverage of 15125885 & 15125886. Interestingly, the Moog 81114's on RA are only $35 a set, but the vehicle fitment is only indicated to be the '02-'06 TB's and the '04 - '06 Ascenders. As a last bit of info, I did see a few complaints on the forums of the Moog springs showing premature corrosion.

As you can see, I chased that for quite a while with no definitive success. I decided to look into the possibility of getting new OEM AC Delco springs, and went to a few GM parts sites where you can enter your VIN # to aid in parts selection. NewGMParts.com matches my VIN to the 881 spring, whereas GMPartsGiant.com insists I have the 15125885's. (My VIN to plugin for anyone who wants to take a crack: 1GKET16S956134882)

I have not yet called an actual dealer to see what they may say. This is partly due to the fact that the main guy at the local dealership is a useless lazy POS who really doesn't give a fuck what he sells/tells people, and the other is that given the vast amount of conflicting info everywhere else, I wouldn't have any confidence in his answer anyway.

QUESTION 1: HOW THE HELL CAN I FIGURE OUT WHAT SPRING I NEED TO CONSTRUCT MY OWN STRUT?!?!?!??!?

2) The Bilstein HD's I have targeted for this vehicle, and available for the deal described earlier, are the B6 4600 series 103336 & 103350. Oddly, both the Bilstein online catalog and their 2014 application guide say these are NOT a fit for XL/EXT models. I have seen some replies to the contrary by knowledgeable forum members here, on the OS an on ORTB. In fact most of the Bilstein DEALERS contradict what Bilstein says, and puts them up as matches for my truck. I'm pretty confident it's the right shock & strut for my application, but there seems to be a distinct lack of LWB guys who have actually used them. I gotta wonder why.

QUESTION 2: IF THE MANUFACTURER DOESN'T SEEM TO HAVE THE CORRECT INFO ABOUT PARTS APPLICABILITY, HOW DID THEY COMMUNICATE SAID INFO TO THE DEALERS WHO CONTRADICT THAT, AND HOW CAN I BE SURE THEY AREN'T THE ONES WITH BAD INFO??!??!

Thx for any input :smile:
It is quite possible that you have an 81 on one side and an 85 on the other side. GM was famous for that to match things up and give a better ride. You would probably be best match with the 81112.

Playsinsnow said:
ORTB build threads are dangerous to my bank accounts.
ORTB is just dangerous for you. :wink:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
WarGawd said:
QUESTION 1: HOW THE HELL CAN I FIGURE OUT WHAT SPRING I NEED TO CONSTRUCT MY OWN STRUT?!?!?!??!?
I bet I could put on ten different strut combinations, and it would take me a half hour of desert rock crawling and high speed washboarding to tell substantial differences of 6 of them. The only instantly identifiable difference was when I put on $1200 Icon coilovers with 650 pounds/in springs. THAT made the hugest difference. For an XL, you want one of the springs in the middle like 84, 85, 86. GM designers were insane when they had the assembly line computers choose from such a wide array of springs after the vehicle's weight with options was known. We do not have to overthink things at this late date. You're making yourself nuts for no benefit. Choose one, I guarantee it will be within 1/2" of the optimal height, and then you don't have to be thought of as the Princess and the Pea.
QUESTION 2: IF THE MANUFACTURER DOESN'T SEEM TO HAVE THE CORRECT INFO ABOUT PARTS APPLICABILITY, HOW DID THEY COMMUNICATE SAID INFO TO THE DEALERS WHO CONTRADICT THAT, AND HOW CAN I BE SURE THEY AREN'T THE ONES WITH BAD INFO??!??!
Just get the HD Bilsteins 90% of us seem to get. Unless you have the oddball with air ride that they recommend a different shock for, you'll be fine. The upgrade will please and amaze you. I threw away my OEM black Bilsteins at 9000 miles and never looked back. Have rebuilt parts of my suspension a dozen times. Never pay for outside labor, and I break things a lot. No biggie. Don't obsess.

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Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
I just picked up a set of Moog 81114s. I don't know why, but they were half the price of the 81110 and 81112s. The 81114s are supposed to be stiffer

Anyone know why these are cheaper??? Makes me wonder if I'm going to figure it out myself 50 miles down the road.
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
Hypnotoad said:
I just picked up a set of Moog 81114s. I don't know why, but they were half the price of the 81110 and 81112s. The 81114s are supposed to be stiffer

Anyone know why these are cheaper??? Makes me wonder if I'm going to figure it out myself 50 miles down the road.


offroadTB.com - View topic - Moog Spring Rates

Supply/demand would be my guess.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
Hypnotoad said:
I just picked up a set of Moog 81114s. I don't know why, but they were half the price of the 81110 and 81112s. The 81114s are supposed to be stiffer

Anyone know why these are cheaper??? Makes me wonder if I'm going to figure it out myself 50 miles down the road.

Should be cool. Have a link about them: offroadTB.com - View topic - Front Springs Moog 81114 or 89s ?

Guy installed noted he gained a little body lift, and the ride is a bit stiff. Not sure if it's a forever thing, or just a new-part thing. He did it with no extra weight on the front (winch, bumper, etc.)

The 81110s are apparently similar to the "85/86" (I believe that's the tail end of a GM part number)
The 81114s are more like an "89."
Someone speculated the 81112 might be like an "87/88," but I never saw a confirmation.

Also found a link within a GMTN post showing the 81110-81116 specs: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B66ibZBJzyfYbjlzai11SS1WS28/edit?pli=1


Maybe the 81114s are on "permanent special," or they're the base unit and then the other ones are crafted from them, but I don't see that doubling the price. Maybe it's a demand thing, too.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
The_Roadie said:
For an XL, you want one of the springs in the middle like 64, 65, 66. GM designers were insane when they had the assembly line computers choose from such a wide array of springs after the vehicle's weight with options was known.

Yeah, I've noticed there's tons and tons and tons of different spring codes on RPOs. There will be a 6XX, 7XX, 8XX, and 9XX code. The two "XX" are always two letters. 6 is FL, 7 is FR, 8 is RL and 9 is RR. Sometimes the letters match between the two front or back, many times they don't.

I'm just wondering if there is any way to identify, using the RPOs, which part number is applicable for each individual spring. I wouldn't get all nitpicky when doing aftermarket and try to match factory (I think they did that as part of their "Premium Ride" RPO, seems included on all GMT360/70) with getting exact weight-matching crap based off the exact weight on that spring. But for those just wanting to replace and do OEM, it could help :thumbsup:
 

Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
IllogicTC said:
The 81114s are more like an "89."

If that's true, I might have to add a bit of lift to the rear end. They crossed referenced on rockauto over to the 85/86 spring.
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
Sorry Hypnotoad. I thought you read all the ortb threads. You will get lift. Depending on how much weight you add and what springs you have in there now. 1.5-3"?
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
IllogicTC said:
Should be cool. Have a link about them: offroadTB.com - View topic - Front Springs Moog 81114 or 89s ?

Guy installed noted he gained a little body lift, and the ride is a bit stiff. Not sure if it's a forever thing, or just a new-part thing. He did it with no extra weight on the front (winch, bumper, etc.)

The 81110s are apparently similar to the "85/86" (I believe that's the tail end of a GM part number)
The 81114s are more like an "89."
Someone speculated the 81112 might be like an "87/88," but I never saw a confirmation.

Also found a link within a GMTN post showing the 81110-81116 specs: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B66ibZBJzyfYbjlzai11SS1WS28/edit?pli=1


Maybe the 81114s are on "permanent special," or they're the base unit and then the other ones are crafted from them, but I don't see that doubling the price. Maybe it's a demand thing, too.

IllogicTC said:
Yeah, I've noticed there's tons and tons and tons of different spring codes on RPOs. There will be a 6XX, 7XX, 8XX, and 9XX code. The two "XX" are always two letters. 6 is FL, 7 is FR, 8 is RL and 9 is RR. Sometimes the letters match between the two front or back, many times they don't.

I'm just wondering if there is any way to identify, using the RPOs, which part number is applicable for each individual spring. I wouldn't get all nitpicky when doing aftermarket and try to match factory (I think they did that as part of their "Premium Ride" RPO, seems included on all GMT360/70) with getting exact weight-matching crap based off the exact weight on that spring. But for those just wanting to replace and do OEM, it could help :thumbsup:

I think you need to try to remember to string your replies together into one reply instead of multi-posting. :wink: trying to pad your post count? LOL
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
djthumper said:
I think you need to try to remember to string your replies together into one reply instead of multi-posting. :wink: trying to pad your post count? LOL

I've only used multi-quote once. Almost forget it's there. It was a little odd to use but I figured it out.

Sometimes I read another post I would like to reply to after I've finished with the original one.
 

Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
Playsinsnow said:
Sorry Hypnotoad. I thought you read all the ortb threads. You will get lift. Depending on how much weight you add and what springs you have in there now. 1.5-3"?

I rarely visit ORTB. I have a 2.5" lift and and 10 year old springs. I don't remember what stiffness they are, and the tags have since worn off.

I hope you're wrong about those numbers. That's too much.
 

Playsinsnow

Member
Nov 17, 2012
9,727
djthumper said:
It is quite possible that you have an 81 on one side and an 85 on the other side. GM was famous for that to match things up and give a better ride. You would probably be best match with the 81112.


ORTB is just dangerous for you. :wink:


You might be right. :biggrin:

Hypnotoad said:
I rarely visit ORTB. I have a 2.5" lift and and 10 year old springs. I don't remember what stiffness they are, and the tags have since worn off.

I hope you're wrong about those numbers. That's too much.
I read too much sometimes. The link above was one of them.
 

xtitan1

Member
Jun 5, 2013
467
You could also go with KBEE coilovers. They are ride adjustable. There's a group buy going on now at tbssowners
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Really odd, I crafted and posted a reply just after Roadie weighed in, but it never made it through cyberspace??

Thank you all for your input & time, I'll try to re-do it and add a little more now that there's a few more responders.


The_Roadie said:
For an XL, you want one of the springs in the middle like 84, 85, 86. .... Choose one, I guarantee it will be within 1/2" of the optimal height, and then you don't have to be thought of as the Princess and the Pea. Just get the HD Bilsteins 90% of us seem to get. Unless you have the oddball with air ride that they recommend a different shock for, you'll be fine. The upgrade will please and amaze you. I threw away my OEM black Bilsteins at 9000 miles and never looked back. Have rebuilt parts of my suspension a dozen times. Never pay for outside labor, and I break things a lot. No biggie. Don't obsess.

The problem is both the Moog 112 and 114 x-ref to the suggested OEM middle range. And from the ORTB thread I cited in my OP, with posts by guys you have some regard for contradicting what you're saying to an extent, I don't think you can back up your guarantee of being within 1/2" of optimal when there are such varying real world results being shown. I'd love to choose the 114's at RA for $35 a set, but others' experience suggests I should expect a lift ~2". I really don't those are right for this application (which also excludes the equivalent Raybestos version). I think Hypnotoad is about to discover he made a mistake...

No oddballl air ride here, and I take your point about over-obsessing. Maybe it should have been part of my background info, but all my DIY stuff has to be done streetside, under time pressure and usually crappy conditions. If I choose to pay for outside labor, it's usually the best choice considering all factors. I don't have the luxury of a well equipped garage, nor do I relish the idea of getting halfway into a job only to discover I've been sent a wrong/mislabeled/misboxed part. I have little choice but to make my best effort at getting it right the first time, especially if I have been forced to sacrifice income to give allowance for time to finish the job.

Mooseman said:
Here's my thoughts on this if I were in your situation. I would try a slightly higher spring rate in the front just to stiffen it a bit and bring the front up a little to try to take out the front rake. I got Bilsteins all around and like the the ride although the rear could have been valved a little better to be a bit stiffer on compression. And yes, the struts fit our extended trucks. If there would be any difference, it could be in the valving for a slightly heavier truck but it wouldn't be that much different in the front end.

Just my 2¢ (rounded up to 5¢ :biggrin:)

Thanx Randall - I'm not opposed to a bit more stiffness vs factory new, I just can't determine what my baseline was to begin with. If I base my decisions solely on rectifying the current crappy ride, I may only be getting back to the soccer mom OEM ride, and I'd be ok with a bit more than that. And I caught your refernce to Canada phasing out the penny, LOL, not sure our American friends will have ;-)

djthumper said:
It is quite possible that you have an 81 on one side and an 85 on the other side. GM was famous for that to match things up and give a better ride. You would probably be best match with the 81112.

Seriously?? I never tripped over that little jewel anywhere else....in the end though I concur with the consensus that I shouldn't really be trying to replicate exacting OEM dynamics. There's enough variablility in the aftermarket offerings that something will come pretty close to being "universal" and still satisfy my objective of being slightly above the middle of the road stiffness-wise. After more reading, I tend to agree the 81112's are the best choice to satsify my objective cost effectively

Hypnotoad said:
If that's true, I might have to add a bit of lift to the rear end. They crossed referenced on rockauto over to the 85/86 spring.

Playsinsnow said:
Sorry Hypnotoad. I thought you read all the ortb threads. You will get lift. Depending on how much weight you add and what springs you have in there now. 1.5-3"?

As in my OP, the 114's do indeed x-ref to the 85/86, but the 112's x-ref to the 83/84/85. The cited ORTB post talks about the 2"+ lift experienced when one is not adding any additional front end weight for armour or winches etc.

Hypnotoad said:
I just picked up a set of Moog 81114s. I don't know why, but they were half the price of the 81110 and 81112s. The 81114s are supposed to be stiffer

Anyone know why these are cheaper??? Makes me wonder if I'm going to figure it out myself 50 miles down the road.

I am keenly interested in the outcome if you proceed, keep me/us posted.

IllogicTC said:
The 81110s are apparently similar to the "85/86" (I believe that's the tail end of a GM part number)
The 81114s are more like an "89."
Someone speculated the 81112 might be like an "87/88," but I never saw a confirmation.

Also found a link within a GMTN post showing the 81110-81116 specs:

Correct, the 85 86 etc are the last two digits in a series of part numbers 151258xx where xx=81, 82,...,89
The Rockauto info on the Moog 110's xref's them to 81/82/83
The 112's x-ref to 83/84/85 and the 114's x-ref to 85/86
The 116's are an oddball, and being 1/2" shorter and 200lb lighter load (vs the 110), they should have probably been numbered 811108 to keep the progression in order. But they don't x-ref to any of the series of nine 151258xx springs, and instead are only called out for 07/08 TBs and 05-08 9-7X's (both SWBs)
The GMTN post referencing the google doc info re: moog spring info I am pretty sure is the same source as what was posted in the ORTB thread in my OP
ALL the MOOG springs have the same rate, Moog varies free height to alter compressed force and therefore lift & load capacity. GM varied the actual spring rates (and possibly other variables) as shown in one of the ORTB threads referenced in the replies. The challenge then becomes finding an aftermarket spring with a fixed rate, that has a free height and load rating such that it closely matches the OEM behavior and/or takes into account mods and desired results.

Hypnotoad said:
I rarely visit ORTB. I have a 2.5" lift and and 10 year old springs. I don't remember what stiffness they are, and the tags have since worn off.

I hope you're wrong about those numbers. That's too much.

I don't think he's wrong, I saw enough references to the results that I'm positive you can expect some lift, unless you add front end weight. I still haven't found much in the way of info on the relative impact when used on SWB vs LWB, probably because there's a pretty strong bias towards the SWB applicability for offroad applications.


Thanx again all - input has been VERY helpful and I appreciate everyone's replies. Not ready yet to pull the trigger on a spring decision (leaning toward 81112, but not totally opposed to OEM 15125885 or 86 for ~$100 more if I can dig up info to justify the choice) but I did lock down the deal on my Bilsteins. 24-103350 and 24-10336 from 4wheelparts.com. Basically the deal gave me the full set at US dollar equivalent pricing (~$62 ea. CDN), saved me a trip across the border and only cost me $14 for shipping. One part was stocked, one has to come in from Bilstein US, so that buys me time to decide springs, and get info on the other stuff.

Cheers :smile:
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
xtitan1 said:
You could also go with KBEE coilovers. They are ride adjustable. There's a group buy going on now at tbssowners

Hmmm, I looked quickly...intriguing but I'm afraid @ $725 US they miserably fail the cost effectiveness test stated in my objectives. If I win the lottery.....nah, then I'd buy a Suburban :smile:
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
Just a cpl minor comments I neglected to capture in my re-reply

Playsinsnow said:
It really comes down to budget and availability. Personally I am debating buying OEM because they lasted for over 9years. (11/04 production date) I'd be a fool not to use these personally tried and tested parts again. Sometimes the truth hurts. But honestly why not for a daily driver? This does not apply to anyone looking to switch things up, obviously. But if you like the stock ride, why not keep as much OEM as possible?

I have no issue with that approach in general. If OEM stuff lasted 5, 7, 10 yrs (10/04 production date for me) then sure. But usually you can find a more robust aftermarket part (ixnay on motor mounts, transfer case fluid and 45-103 plugs for the L6!) with better longevity and/or better performance characteristics for less than half the cost of OEM stuff...to me that's better value, and worth seeking out

The_Roadie said:
The upgrade will please and amaze you. I threw away my OEM black Bilsteins at 9000 miles and never looked back.

Of course anyone who claims to have read the number of posts I did would have been aware of that - I was :biggrin: Just wanted more of a sanity check since none of what I was finding specifically addressed the LWBs

Ciao :smile:
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
OH! One last thing I wanted to add specifically for the Canadians as it pertains to Bilsteins. Be VERY wary of buying these from Bilstein's "official" Canadian distributor Essex. Reading the fine print of Essex' warranty process & details, you will find this:

Warranty


PLEASE NOTE: WARRANTY IS FOR ORIGINAL PURCHASER OF PARTS ONLY!

Essex Warranty Procedure:
1.Purchase a new unit (so your vehicle will not be out of commission)
2.Provide a copy of your sales invoice and ship the warranty shocks to Essex Distributors freight prepaid.
3.Bilstein USA will determine whether the product qualifies for warranty. Not Essex…
4.When Bilstein USA issues credit for warranty, your purchase cost less SERVICE FEE of $30.00 Per shock absorber (plus tax), which covers freight and brokerage fees.
5.If Bilstein USA does not approve warranty, Essex will be returned the warranty units for pick up by you.​

So after you pay the shipping AND the service fee equal to almost half the shock price AND taxes on that, Bilstein US may still deny warranty, and to get 'em back (assuming they're remotely useable), you'd have to pay shipping a second time!!! LOL Go fuck yourself Essex.
 

WarGawd

Original poster
Member
Sep 2, 2012
468
I have more info, some of which was staring me in the face all along. Too late to type it all out now. Roadie may have been a bit closer to the truth about being within 1/2" than I had originally thought, though some caveats and conditions are still warranted. And Hypnotoad may not be all that disappointed with 81114's either.

Gotta sleep, I'm in the middle of moving, and I have to work tonight but I'll try to write up the details and thought process this afternoon. Just didn't want to set off further discussion in the wrong direction without adding this note.

As a bonus, the $35 85114's from RA may well suit my application and objectives after all.

R
 

JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
I just rebuilt the front end on my 06 EXT 4.2L this past fall, and I couldn't be happier. It drives like a new car it's a wonderful thing, suspension all nice and tight. What I changed out:
- steering rack with ac delco rebuilt (was leaking)
- Moog quick struts (includes springs, I'm happy with these)
- deeza tie rods
- dorman lower control arm assembly (with ball joint, bracket)
- end links, and new bushings as well.

I think that's everything, but I have this feeling I forgot something. I don't know what, the only thing I can think left are upper ball joints and UCA, but those ball joints are not that old. (I also changed out rear end links and bushings)

I bought everything from rock auto, with the 5% discount as well. I'm not telling you to buy from them, that's just what I did. It was still a lot of money, but I saved more than I spent if I were to pay a mechanic to do it.

Notes:
- one of the dorman lower control arms was slightly wrong, look at those closely. I had to drill out an end link hole to make it the correct size. (9/16 IIRC) I looked to make sure I got left and right, but didn't look close enough.
- removing the end links was a pain, it make take some time on this for you. One of nuts I had to angle grind off.
- also, on the driver side, I would seriously consider putting on lock washers with your end links to prevent the "loosening up" that can happen when you change out end links. I put them on after I had to tighten them up in January toasty warm weather here in wny.

-Jerry
 

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