I know this has been already said....but be real careful with the amount of force applied to that EZ out. I have snapped those. Then you have REAL trouble.
Make absolutely sure you have the trans dipstick secured. The entire tube is in a bad place if it were to leak as the trans fluid will very likely make it onto the exhaust manifold and/or the cat.
I reallly dislike the fact it runs almost parallel to the manifold and the cat. I remember a few fire stories from trans fluid on these motors.
The mounting bracket lined right back up where it was and is now securely fastened in place just like before.
For good measure I sprayed off all the spots I saw dripping tranny fluid with brake cleaner and then ran my car through the car wash. I'll monitor for droplets on the back of the car and occasionally look under it as well as keeping an eye on the dipstick level.That sounds good enough for me!! Perhaps just monitor for any dripping for the immediate future?
How can I tell if I have the tranny dipstick tube reinstalled correctly?
I tried to remove the transmission dipstick tube. I couldn't get it out and struggled to get it to reseat correctly
I felt like it kinda "clicked" (well, like it was being pushed into an o-ringed opening) and bottomed out
The majority of fires were caused by a leaking tranny cooler line spraying onto the exhaust
I've finally had enough of the ticking noise from my multiple exhaust leaks. The noise, coupled with some performance concerns (mainly mileage related) have finally driven me to replace the exhaust manifold. I have a 2002 Olds Bravada - so it's the first design of the manifold and downpipe. I've ordered the replacement manifold and matching replacement bolts from RockAuto. I also ordered a replacement upstream oxygen sensor as the last time I had to troubleshoot some misfires I tried to remove the oxygen sensor and failed miserably. I have no hope in saving it, so in the bin it goes with the manifold.
All that being said, I have yet to attempt to turn any of the exhaust manifold bolts. I'm seeking input to maximize my potential to remove these bolts without snapping any. I realize the chances of removing all of them without breakage is incredibly small, but I'd like to try. Complicating the issue is the fact that I have 2 flange cracks and already 1 exhaust manifold bolthead has disappeared before I've even turned a single bolt.
I have reviewed countless videos on removing exhaust manifolds - including several covering this exact application. I will attempt to incorporate as much of the useful advice and procedures that I've gathered as possible including "soak with penetrating oil", "loosen, tighten, loosen", and "apply heat/shock". However, I have some crazy ideas and sometimes need a reality check to put me in my place. Has anyone considered drilling the flanges perpendicular to the bolts and soaking with penetrating oil? What are the best penetrating oils? (I already have WD40(mediocre) and PB Blaster(never tried it) as well as FreezeOff spray and will likely acquire "Knock'er Loose" as well). I've also purchased a pneumatic die grinder as I'm 100% certain the downpipe studs will not budge, so I'm counting on cutting them. Now I'm wondering if the die grinder can be used to cut/section the manifold to remove as much of the flanges away from the bolts giving better access to the bolts themselves and the holes they go into. Has anyone tried this?
As part of my exhaust manifold adventure, I have also purchased intake manifold and valve cover gaskets as well as a VVT solenoid. I have valve cover leaks that I'd really like to address and I suspect that the intake ports are gunked up with sludge/blowby oil. I'll have a fair portion of the top of this motor open so I should gain decent access to the manifold and bolts.
Does anyone have good experience or advice?
Thanks!