I have a 2001 Silverado, 5.3l, two wheel drive. The truck was driven about twelve miles and ran fine. Engine was shut down, no problems. Later the truck was restarted and moved to a new location a short distance from where it had been parked. When the ignition was turned off the engine continued to run and the truck shook violently. Turning the ignition back to the on position the engine restarted and ran. The attempt to turn the ignition off a second time had the same results. While the truck is shaking all of the warning lights are also flashing. Once again the ignition was turned back to the run position and the engine restarted and seem to run a little rough. The third attempt to shut it down went smoothly. After the engine cooled down my wife tried to restart the engine. As soon as she opened the left door the chime started sounding as if the ignition key was in the ignition. There was no key in the ignition at this time. The truck did start and shut down at this time. This morning she tried to start the engine and turning the key had no reaction at all. No lights, nothing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can check for codes when I get back in a few days. Thank you for any help in advance.
NEED HELP Engine would not turn off
- Thread starter mlan12
- Start date
If this is what you are up against... Your vehicle stayed on all night long and ran the Battery Down flatter than a Chinese YEN because the Ignition never REALLY turned off:
Your Fuse Block in the Silverado might be a little different but THESE PRINCIPLES COVERED HERE STILL APPLY...Watch THIS Video... If you are in an emergency situation right now and MUST disable the vehicle... @MAY03LT shows a way to shut off the engine by pulling a few fuses/relays and gives you a chance to disable the vehicle by removing the Ground Wire on the Battery until you can tear into the Ignition Cylinder and/or Replace a Sketchy Ignition Switch. If you Don't have "GI Joe Hands with The Kung-Fu Grip" ...gently... use a pair of Needle Nose pliers and keep them handy in the Glove Box until this problem gets sorted out:
Your Fuse Block in the Silverado might be a little different but THESE PRINCIPLES COVERED HERE STILL APPLY...Watch THIS Video... If you are in an emergency situation right now and MUST disable the vehicle... @MAY03LT shows a way to shut off the engine by pulling a few fuses/relays and gives you a chance to disable the vehicle by removing the Ground Wire on the Battery until you can tear into the Ignition Cylinder and/or Replace a Sketchy Ignition Switch. If you Don't have "GI Joe Hands with The Kung-Fu Grip" ...gently... use a pair of Needle Nose pliers and keep them handy in the Glove Box until this problem gets sorted out:
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Thank you for this information. Not sure about battery condition, will know in a couple of days. I feel from the description my wife gave me the ignition switch has gone bad. If anyone can offer information to help I will appreciate any thoughts very much. Thank you MRRSM for your help.
You are Most Welcome...
But I must tell you that all the Praise needs to go to Drew... @MAY03LT ... A few years ago...I was in a similar circumstance where one of his videos actually allowed my son to be on time for a Job Interview and I was quite desperate to get the Trailblazer put together... His video played a key part in turning my Son's Life around because he was hired on that very afternoon! Things like this can only happen in a place like GMT Nation... where Men trying to be as Good as HE is... Will Help Others Who Are Also in Trouble...
"So Shines A Good Deed... Upon a Weary World..."
But I must tell you that all the Praise needs to go to Drew... @MAY03LT ... A few years ago...I was in a similar circumstance where one of his videos actually allowed my son to be on time for a Job Interview and I was quite desperate to get the Trailblazer put together... His video played a key part in turning my Son's Life around because he was hired on that very afternoon! Things like this can only happen in a place like GMT Nation... where Men trying to be as Good as HE is... Will Help Others Who Are Also in Trouble...
"So Shines A Good Deed... Upon a Weary World..."
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To address the actual repairs of the Two Sub-Components that might be causal to the problem(s), this first video will show you how to Remove and Replace the entire Key/Cylinder Mechanism:
These Videos will show you how to replace the Ignition Switch Module in the Underside of the Upper Steering Column:
... and Here is a Whole Series of Additional On-Topic Videos that will improve your comfort level with doing this repair by the duplication of this work by different mechanics:
These Videos will show you how to replace the Ignition Switch Module in the Underside of the Upper Steering Column:
... and Here is a Whole Series of Additional On-Topic Videos that will improve your comfort level with doing this repair by the duplication of this work by different mechanics:
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Installed new ignition switch today. All of the electrical accessories are now working normally. However, the starting motor will not operate.There is no voltage draw shown at the battery terminals. The radio etc. power down when the ignition switch is in the start position. I tried swapping the ignition relay and the starter relay with the rear window defogger relay. Also checked the 40 amp ignition fuse. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Your "Next Stop"... should be to get in touch with a Member named @budwich who has helped with this very issue on a previous long post within the last year. His understanding of the TB Electrical System and its relationship with the PCM in particular with solving difficult and mysterious "No Start" Problems could be very helpful to you in this situation. He has been online very recently, too.
One subject that we did not determine in sorting out your Ignition Switch, was whether or not your vehicle is now using ...or has ever had... any kind of "After-Market Add-Ons" installed that may have been doctored into (or onto) the Electrical Harness feeding the Steering Column. You'd be surprised how crazy things can get when company techs (...and Yup... sometimes even Owners do, too) who just want to get their own equipment working to complete their sale ...will "Jerry-Rig" the stock Ignition Circuit in weird ways that can take a long time to discover. Knowing if this is the case up front will really help in sorting things out sooner than later.
One subject that we did not determine in sorting out your Ignition Switch, was whether or not your vehicle is now using ...or has ever had... any kind of "After-Market Add-Ons" installed that may have been doctored into (or onto) the Electrical Harness feeding the Steering Column. You'd be surprised how crazy things can get when company techs (...and Yup... sometimes even Owners do, too) who just want to get their own equipment working to complete their sale ...will "Jerry-Rig" the stock Ignition Circuit in weird ways that can take a long time to discover. Knowing if this is the case up front will really help in sorting things out sooner than later.
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Okay... Just in Case you can't get in touch with @budwich directly... I just located the Epic "NO CRANK - NO START" [SOLVED] Post that probably covers what you are up against ..."From Soup to Nuts". Pay close attention to the comments and suggestions made by @coolasice ...as they are indeed a great example of some Very "Cool" Problem Solving:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/solved-04-trailblazer-lt-4-2-l-no-crank-no-start.14737/
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/solved-04-trailblazer-lt-4-2-l-no-crank-no-start.14737/
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First of all THANK YOU for the help. I spent a few more hours today checking fuses and relays. All of tests showed no problems. I checked the battery again today and found it would charge to 100%. Took to the local parts store. It tested "tested good, needed to be charged." The battery had been charging for eight hours the day before. I bought a new battery. I feel I did all I could. Unable to check for power at the starting motor due to muddy ground. The truck will be taken to a automotive electrical shop tomorrow morning. The manager asked for both keys and remotes in the security system needs to be reset. I will post the final repair when I know the fix. Thanks again for the help!
Final diagnosis on the Silverado. The starting motor is bad and is being replaced. Had to have this done by a regular auto repair shop. Talking a very large bill to get this done. The initial problems I wrote about as far as the engine not shutting down, instrument lights flashing, door chime ringing with no key in ignition etc. was all corrected by replacing the ignition switch. Not sure when, or how the starter got involved in this but my wife said she smelled something electrical while trying to shut the engine off. Guess it was the starter going to wherever starters go when the die. Hope this information will be helpful so someone else in the future. Thanks again to all who helped.
Ordinarily... as soon as an RFH (Request for HELP) problem is either solved...or not... no further information comes along from the OP afterwards to say what actually happened as an outcome...one way or another. So, Thanks for the Detailed Follow up. And since you’ve narrowed down what the ACTUAL problem(s) were that are involved here, as well describing the High Costs of having to get the work done at a Repair Shop, for the sake of “Post Posterity”... here is a Diagnostic Video from Eric-The-Car-Guy on the investigation side... and a well-detailed video describing How to Change out the Starter in a wide range of Full Sized GM Trucks:
How to Diagnose “No Start – No Crank” Issues:
Step By Step How-To R&R the Starter in Full Size Chevrolet Pick Up Trucks:
PS...
Don’t forget to check for @Mooseman ‘s Instructions in the Articles Section on “How to Change the Status of Your Post to [SOLVED]”
How to Diagnose “No Start – No Crank” Issues:
Step By Step How-To R&R the Starter in Full Size Chevrolet Pick Up Trucks:
PS...
Don’t forget to check for @Mooseman ‘s Instructions in the Articles Section on “How to Change the Status of Your Post to [SOLVED]”