Dorman now has VVT cam phaser

[Mooseman]

Mine is completely dead. Won't wove at all when commanded by the Tech 2. CPAS replaced, same deal. In the past, it would move and make the engine run rough at idle (similar to opening the EGR on an old small block).

Dealer used to be the ONLY place to get a rebuilt one at a hefty price (well, in Canukistan anyway) at $285 + tax. In the US, it's about $178 USD but with the Canadian peso the way it is, it's more than here with shipping and having to ship the core back too.

Found another alternative. Dorman has one, new, for $171 CAD + $20 shipping at RA. Add a 5% discount code ($aves $8.56), total comes to $183 CAD. Dorman part number 917255 (cross references to GM 19179010). I even checked Canadian online retailer The Wrench Monkey and they sell it for $246.

I know Dorman are not the best at some of these parts, their electrical parts are not the most reliable (fan clutch is an example) and may fail prematurely. I've pretty much made up my mind on getting it because the old girl is probably on her last couple of years at most and is approaching 300k km.

I really don't wanna put a lot of money into it at this point. What do you guys think?

 

[Sparky]

If it isn't electronic then Dorman is probably fine. Seems they do pretty good work on stuff as long as electricity isn't involved lol.

 

[littleblazer]

Ah yes a guinea pig.

 

[BlazingTrails]

Mine is completely dead. Won't wove at all when commanded by the Tech 2. CPAS replaced, same deal. In the past, it would move and make the engine run rough at idle (similar to opening the EGR on an old small block).

Dealer used to be the ONLY place to get a rebuilt one at a hefty price (well, in Canukistan anyway) at $285 + tax. In the US, it's about $178 USD but with the Canadian peso the way it is, it's more than here with shipping and having to ship the core back too.

Found another alternative. Dorman has one, new, for $171 CAD + $20 shipping at RA. Add a 5% discount code ($aves $8.56), total comes to $183 CAD. Dorman part number 917255 (cross references to GM 19179010). I even checked Canadian online retailer The Wrench Monkey and they sell it for $246.

I know Dorman are not the best at some of these parts, their electrical parts are not the most reliable (fan clutch is an example) and may fail prematurely. I've pretty much made up my mind on getting it because the old girl is probably on her last couple of years at most and is approaching 300k km.

I really don't wanna put a lot of money into it at this point. What do you guys think?

My Wife's EXT has well over 330k mi on it (compared to your 186k mi), so I think maintenance is the deciding factor on the life of a vehicle. I think the old girl has plenty of life left.

Personally for something as crucial as the cam phaser I would only go with OEM but that is up to you. I just spent extra money on a GM fan clutch over a cheap one because it is such a critical part. Other things not so much. IMO

 

[Mooseman]

Maintenance is one thing. that I'm fine with. It's the body here in the rust belt will not survive much longer. Rear quarters are going. That's why I have relegated it to winter duty over the Saab.

My wife only said "what? $300+ on that old POS? Scrap it!". When I was able to bring it down below $200, she was more receptive.

 

[Mooseman]

Just ordered it. I'll be the guinea pig! Should be here by Jan.22.

 

[Mooseman]

Well, it arrived yesterday. Great shipping from RA! From the Bronx to me, that was very fast and at regular shipping too.

There are some differences between the original and this one. Most notably is the exposed spring and the holes in the gear. This thing is noticeably lighter. Maybe this will will translate into better performance (I doubt it). And of course, it's made in good 'ol China. I had an old one laying around for comparison.





Now I just have to find the time and cooperation from the weather to do this.

 

[Mooseman]

Well, finished the install tonight. All's good with the world. Commanded the phaser with the Tech 2 and it worked as required. Pep is back too. Now hopefully my mileage will bounce back.

 

[Sparky]

Makes me wonder about mine, but I ain't putting the money into it.

 

[Mooseman]

You have a P1345 code? If not, it's probably OK.

 

[Sparky]

No never have had that one. Just still seeming to be gutless sometimes. New spark plugs seemed to help at first but it feels like its dragging again. Might just be old and tired frankly.

 

[littleblazer]

Sometimes mine seems gutless... and then other times it takes off like a bat out of hell. Still hangs with the newer mid sized suvs with the tune.

 

[Mooseman]

Mine was always a bit if a dog being an EXT with 3.42 gears. Once it has taken off, it does move though.

 

[mrrsm]

I was just wondering if this situation could be remedied by first removing the CPAS Solenoid and just as the clogged lifters in the GM 5.3L Engines with noisy racket from the lack of oil moving clearly through them responds to the direct injection of Berryman B12-Chemtool to clean them all out inside, then perhaps by snaking a slender clear plastic tube well up inside the servicing oil channel controlled normally by the in-dwelling CPAS Solenoid unit... and then spraying out the deep inner helical center gearing and guts of the OEM Delphi VVT Actuator Sprocket, it would dissolve and clean out all the residual junk that has collected inside for so long. To be done properly... it would take an entire can of the stuff...followed by an immediate, complete Oil and Oil Filer Change afterwards.

By temporarily plugging the CPAS port with a short section of Clear Acrylic Tubing approximating the size of the CPAS sensor... it would sort of hold in the B12-Chemtool long enough to dissolve all the crap that has built up over perhaps a few hundred thousand miles. If my theory is spot on, this action would free up the inside helical gear of the mechanism of all that gunk and sort of rejuvenate the innards.

The only problem I am concerned about, is not knowing whether or not there are any special internal Viton or Rubber Seals inside that might dissolve under the onslaught of such a powerful and direct solvent chemical bath. But I don't get the impression that this device would last as long as it does with so many constant changes in motion without wearing out or blowing out the average seals... or whether they are even part of its internal design.

I still have the used OEM Delphi VVT Sprocket that I removed at 240,000 Miles available to cut open and see how this works. However, since it was working at the time I removed it, I am a bit reluctant to break it apart before I can confirm that the Brand New OEM Delphi VVT Sprocket I bought last year for this project soon to go back in, is actually working as well as the old one did before I tear it apart and destroy it for learning purposes.

I would bet a brace of Gutenberg Bibles that the only reason these things ever manage to fail is simply because so much Dirty Oily Crap collects inside of them as a Dead End Hole that the helical gears cannot actuate in and out all the way. This Chemical Clean Out might be just the thing to dislodge all that "Mung" and breathe new life into them and perhaps, not have to R&R it...ever. :>)

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=6689592

 

[Mooseman]

I don't think the phaser fails so much by clogging unless the CPAS' screens fell off and got sucked in or allowed dirt in. In my case, the phaser had an obvious mechanical failure as I was able to easily turn it.

According to that second video, our system is "primitive" since it has a return spring.