Best Brand transmission fluid?

[eutechnyx]

I am planning a filter change on my 03 envoy in the next week or so,I know from the Sticky above that the Dex VI is the type of fluid to use but I am wondering what would be the best brand? I plan to change the filter,install the Dorman pan with plug and a Driveworx filter and in about 100 miles drain the fluid again and re fill. Long story short my transmission dipstick and tube are both rusted and the fluid is not bright pink/red which is why i planned to do two changes maybe 3 eventually. I want good fluid but not the most expensive seeing as I am going to be changing it out 2-3 times anyways.

 

[Wooluf1952]

IMHO, as long as it is Dexron VI, get the cheapest you can. IIRC, some of the members use the Wal-mart fliud with no problems. If it's listed as Dexron VI, it meets GM standards.

 

[coolasice]

IMHO, as long as it is Dexron VI, get the cheapest you can. IIRC, some of the members use the Wal-mart fliud with no problems. If it's listed as Dexron VI, it meets GM standards.

+1 for walmart

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

If you are just using the fluid to flush the system, any good DEX VI will do. Once you start getting the rustless red color I would switch to a good synthetic. You realize that a complete change needs 13-14 quarts so if you just drain the pan and refill you will get about 1/3 each time, you will need to do about 4-5 changes to get the majority of the old stuff out. You would then need to do another 4-5 to get a good synthetic in.

Why not pump it dry, replace with Walmart to flush the system do another complete change and put a new filter in and then fill with synthetic? Just my opinion.

 

[Cloudsurfer]

If you are just using the fluid to flush the system, any good DEX VI will do. Once you start getting the rustless red color I would switch to a good synthetic. You realize that a complete change needs 13-14 quarts so if you just drain the pan and refill you will get about 1/3 each time, you will need to do about 4-5 changes to get the majority of the old stuff out. You would then need to do another 4-5 to get a good synthetic in.

Why not pump it dry, replace with Walmart to flush the system do another complete change and put a new filter in and then fill with synthetic? Just my opinion.

Exactly.

 

[Sparky]

I've always used Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc. Meets the standards, middle of the road cost, never an issue with using it (191K miles and counting on the TB, around 170K on the Camaro's transmission).

 

[meerschm]

I like Valvoline full synthetic

you may have a little leak in the radiator pushing coolant into the transmission fluid. ( my 2003 does not have any rust on the tube inside or on the indicator)

has the coolant level gone down any?

 

[AbsoluteZero]

If you are just using the fluid to flush the system, any good DEX VI will do. Once you start getting the rustless red color I would switch to a good synthetic. You realize that a complete change needs 13-14 quarts so if you just drain the pan and refill you will get about 1/3 each time, you will need to do about 4-5 changes to get the majority of the old stuff out. You would then need to do another 4-5 to get a good synthetic in.

Why not pump it dry, replace with Walmart to flush the system do another complete change and put a new filter in and then fill with synthetic? Just my opinion.

I think the only thing I'd do differently would be to do the initial flush using a cheaper "compatible" transmission fluid rather than Dex VI if your goal is to get the dirty oil out. The key is to exchange the entire capacity of the transmission and torque converter rather than drop the pan and only replace a 1/3rd at a time. Last summer I did this on my 03 using Dex VI bought thru this place: Amalie Dexron® VI Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 12QT case | AmalieStore.comAmalieStore.com The delivered cost was under $6/qt
As several have said there's nothing wrong with Walmart's Dex VI.... in my case the nearest Walmart was a 80 mile round trip and often doesn't have any Dex VI stocked so I went the mail order route.

 

[eutechnyx]

Not that I don't want to take you guys advice on flushing but I just read too many horror stories of that on here and don't want to risk anything. The trans has about 110k and has probably never seen a new filter or fluid by the look of the fluid so I want to be careful. I'm unsure if the coolant is getting into the trans but I do know I've had the truck 2+ years and haven't even had to top off the coolant.

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

Not that I don't want to take you guys advice on flushing but I just read too many horror stories of that on here and don't want to risk anything. The trans has about 110k and has probably never seen a new filter or fluid by the look of the fluid so I want to be careful. I'm unsure if the coolant is getting into the trans but I do know I've had the truck 2+ years and haven't even had to top off the coolant.

First of all let's get something straight this is my opinion only. I consider a flush when a machine is attached to the transmission cooling line and and fluid is forced through the system either forward or reverse. i consider it a change when the pan is dropped and the fluid is drained out. You can also use the gerotor pump to pump out the converter for a complete change, this will require at least 13 quarts to refill. I will never Flush the system, i will change the fluid and the filter by dropping/draining the pan. I will always change the filter whenever I change the fluid since this is where the contaminants are held and the filter is very low cost. It will also give you a chance to clean the mud from the pan and clean off the magnet so you start clean.

This is just my opinion of how I do things, other folks have their own opinions on both flushing, and a total change using the gerotor pump to evacuate the system, so be that. You will also get differing opinions of whether your transmission will self destruct after a fluid change. My opinion is that if you change it and it self destructs, it was on the way out anyway. I don't believe dirty fluid holds it together.

You are correct 110K is way overdue. Perhaps if you haven't had it since new it was done earlier, who knows. I would change the entire fluid and filter. If you want to run some clean fluid to FLUSH (god i hate that word) do it and then completely replace both the flushing fluid and the new filter you put in to flush with again new synthetic fluid and another new Filter. I personally use Amsoil fluid but any name brand synthetic should do.

By the way I also recommend a tranny cooler, even if you don't haul anything. All I have going for me is 40 years of this type of maintenance and several vehicles and NO tranny issues or replacements. Good luck I hope it all works out for you.

 

[Mypetropig]

If you are nervous about doing any type of "flush" then you could do a pan drop and filter change. That will only get you about 5 quarts of new fluid instead of the 13-14 it takes at maximum capacity. If your transmission is exhibiting any type of symptoms I don't think a fluid change/flush will do any good. If you transmission is fine then you shouldn't have any trouble. I recently did the DIY flush method, installed a drain plug in the factory pan and used Wally world DEX VI fluid. 15k and no problems.

 

[blazinlow89]

I like Valvoline full synthetic

you may have a little leak in the radiator pushing coolant into the transmission fluid. ( my 2003 does not have any rust on the tube inside or on the indicator)

has the coolant level gone down any?

Its been a documented problem, especially around the top 6 inches of the dipstick. Condensation builds up in the tube causing the dipstick to rust. Mine eventually broke off when I was checking the fluid.

 

[Boricua SS]

waaaay too many myths, theories, and opinions about tranny services out there in the world today... me personally, I would not even think about flushing a system with over 100k miles on it. I didn't do it on my DD Grand Prix, and I wont be doing it on the beaSSt (if she ever reaches 100k lol) I used Valvoline Dex/Mex for my Grand Prix because it requires Dex III, but I run the wally world Super Tech ATF Dex VI in my SS (yes even with the flaky trannies that we all know they have) and all has been fine for me.

Super Tech DEXRON VI Automatic Transmission Fluid - Walmart.com

I just did a pan drop and filter change at 30k miles (beaSSt has 48k miles now). The general consensus is, if the tranny is fine and acting normally, then a simple pan drop and filter change is fine, which is what I did on my 137,xxx mile DD Grand Prix. If you're going to be doing this a total of 3 times in the near future, I think the filter will do its job and catch the rust or other contaminants that you're worried about circulating in the system. If you're having other issues with your tranny other then the rust, a fluid/filter change won't help that much. As others have said, if you're going to be changing fluid often, then hit up the wally world brand to save you some loot.

 

[CaptainXL]

Flushing a system is just a way to get all the fluid out of the transmission. Call it an entire fluid exchange if you will. Weather you drop the pan and replace fluid that way...it could still be considered a flush. I recommend a flush for transmissions that have really old fluid in them and require a complete fluid exchange asap. Not wasting time or effort to only replace 1/3 of the fluid each time. You can then (months to some time later) drop the pan and change the filter at your hearts desire. The entire process is exactly what I did. 25,000 miles ago. I also tow a heavy trailer and have had no issues.

A system fluid exchange is the only way to know you have most of the old contaminated fluid removed. It gives you a starting point/baseline for future scheduling of transmission service.

 

[Sparky]

Mine had 112K when I got it, original fluid. Rather dark. I was going to change it before I started daily driving it but after the accident in the other car it got launched into DD duty and I wasn't able to do the change until 8k miles later. Pumped all the fluid out and changed it all to fresh. Also dropped the pan and changed the filter (I'd not leave the old filter in there). Also installed my trans kit. No issues, now at 191k miles.

I'd just change it all if you're a little overdue. If the trans is in good shape it won't damage anything. If it does, well, your trans was going to go out soon anyway...

 

[eutechnyx]

Trans shifts fine,no hard shifts or anything.

 

[meerschm]

unless the previous owner beat on it, 110k is only ten percent long.

you can probably get away with a pan drop, pan clean, filter change and refill (use some good stuff)

I only mention the possibility of coolant loss into the trans to keep track of. something to check and keep an eye on.

a pan drop will let you look closer at the fluid and give it a good sniff while you are there.



have fun

 

[eutechnyx]

Thanks man. Fluid smells kinda bad IMO.

 

[CaptainXL]

Fluid smells kinda bad IMO.

I would get all of the fluid out of there. ASAP. Assume the worst. You are 60,000 miles overdue.

For a flush service the dealer is going to pump 15 quarts of Dexron VI through the trans. That is $100 worth of transmission fluid. Only $20 more for the package. It really is a no brainer. After that drop the pan and change the filter. Reuse the fluid if you like. I checked on the price the dealer would charge for a pan drop and filter replacement. It adds about $100 to the entire deal. So really you are looking at about $220 total if you have them do everything. Still you are looking at $120 in parts and $100 for the labor. I can't think of any other service more critical for this cheap that needs to be done every $50k miles.

 

[Sparky]

I would get all of the fluid out of there. ASAP. Assume the worst. You are 60,000 miles overdue.

For a flush service the dealer is going to pump 15 quarts of Dexron VI through the trans. That is $100 worth of transmission fluid. Only $20 more for the package. It really is a no brainer. After that drop the pan and change the filter. Reuse the fluid if you like. I checked on the price the dealer would charge for a pan drop and filter replacement. It adds about $100 to the entire deal. So really you are looking at about $220 total if you have them do everything. Still you are looking at $120 in parts and $100 for the labor. I can't think of any other service more critical for this cheap that needs to be done every $50k miles.

The normal trans fluid change interval is 100K, not 50K, so he's only 10K overdue (unless he does falls in the "extreme use" in the manual, like constant towing or whatever).

The transfer case is every 50k, no exceptions.

 

[CaptainXL]

The normal trans fluid change interval is 100K, not 50K, so he's only 10K overdue

Changing only 1/3 of the fluid at 100k miles is not a complete fluid exchange. That is why people in the industry recommend dropping the pan every 30K miles to do the partial change. 3 partial changes, each at 30, 60 and 90K or 1 big change at 100K. A pan drop at 100K to me does not sound right. Because at 200K you would still have 1/3 of the original fluid in there which is even more worn.

This isn't about proceedure as much as common sense. I would assume the worst and work according to the severe service schedule unless it was known the transmission was babied with records and you know the person intimately, like how they drive.

 

[blazinlow89]

Changing only 1/3 of the fluid at 100k miles is not a complete fluid exchange. That is why people in the industry recommend dropping the pan every 30K miles to do the partial change. 3 partial changes, each at 30K or 1 big change at 100K. A pan drop at 100K to me does not sound right. Because at 200K you would still have 1/3 of the original fluid in there.

This isn't about procedure as much as common sense. Assume the worst and work according to the severe service schedule unless it was known the transmission was babied with records and you know the person intimately, like how they drive.

Fluid change by the book is 5 quarts or pan drop. That is at least what my manual says (or at least the last time i looked at it). The heavy usage requirement is different and should be at least to me what is followed for most things. However GM sets the recommended guidelines.

Common sense will also vary from person to person. I usually do every 10k-15k mile oil change intervals which to me is normal, other think its insane.

 

[eutechnyx]

Taking this truck to the dealer is not an option. I don't trust anyone around my truck like that lol its in full unmatchable paint with tons of mods bagged and practically brand new rims. Its kind of a pet peeve to keep my vehicles out of a shop unless its a warranty claim.

 

[Sparky]

Changing only 1/3 of the fluid at 100k miles is not a complete fluid exchange. That is why people in the industry recommend dropping the pan every 30K miles to do the partial change. 3 partial changes, each at 30, 60 and 90K or 1 big change at 100K. A pan drop at 100K to me does not sound right. Because at 200K you would still have 1/3 of the original fluid in there which is even more worn.

This isn't about proceedure as much as common sense. I would assume the worst and work according to the severe service schedule unless it was known the transmission was babied with records and you know the person intimately, like how they drive.

Just disconnect the cooler line at the radiator (the outgoing line to the cooler), attach a hose to a bucket, and pump all the fluid out. Then drop pan, new filter, and refill. Write up on that on the OS (maybe now here too?). Simple enough total DIY fluid exchange

 

[blazinlow89]

Just disconnect the cooler line at the radiator (the outgoing line to the cooler), attach a hose to a bucket, and pump all the fluid out. Then drop pan, new filter, and refill. Write up on that on the OS (maybe now here too?). Simple enough total DIY fluid exchange

Speaking of articles on the OS I have most of them in PDF format if anyone needs one of them. Most have been redone over here, but for the few that didn't I snagged copies. At least before the banned my shill.

 

[eutechnyx]

Just disconnect the cooler line at the radiator (the outgoing line to the cooler), attach a hose to a bucket, and pump all the fluid out. Then drop pan, new filter, and refill. Write up on that on the OS (maybe now here too?). Simple enough total DIY fluid exchange

pump it out by running it? Isn't that the procedure that left a ton of people complaining of roasted transmissions shortly after?

 

[AbsoluteZero]

pump it out by running it? Isn't that the procedure that left a ton of people complaining of roasted transmissions shortly after?

I "calibrated" a 5 gal bucket by marking on the inside with black markers at 1 qt intervals. First I had dropped the pan, installed a new filter and slightly over-filled with 6 qts of new fluid. From reading a previous post the fluid often is pumped out faster than you can pour it in... that's why I started out slightly over-filled. Had my "assistant" AKA the wife start the vehicle. I watched the calibrated bucket as the fluid was pumped out and I poured new in. Even had her stop the engine once so I could catch-up. Using this method at no time was the transmission without fluid since I knew how much had been put in and how much was pumped out.
At the end of installing 11 qts I stopped and checked the level with the fluid hot.... then adjusted the fill to the correct level. Overall it took 12 qts. I do have a cooler.

 

[BoldAdventure]

When I had my transmission rebuilt I used Amsoil.

 

[CaptainXL]

Double Posted.. deleted

 

[CaptainXL]

pump it out by running it? Isn't that the procedure that left a ton of people complaining of roasted transmissions shortly after?

I have never heard of that...

 

[Sparky]

pump it out by running it? Isn't that the procedure that left a ton of people complaining of roasted transmissions shortly after?

Not aware of that happening, unless someone was trying to put it in gear while doing it. Should keep it in park the whole time, and shut it off when the fluid stream sputters.

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

pump it out by running it? Isn't that the procedure that left a ton of people complaining of roasted transmissions shortly after?

As much as I don't like the OS there are several pieces of info there that are helpful.

here is the link, with pics, on how to change the COMPLETE tranny fluid. Filters are cheap always replace them when changing fluid, even a partial change (still hate the word FLUSH).

Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

As I said earlier you will get a ton of opinions on how and what to do. I have used this method and it worked for me. I don't believe any harm was done, remember it is done at idle and the time period is short. But it is your call.

You are doing the right thing, asking questions, getting answers and then making up your own mind. Good luck.

PS I got the truck with 45K on it, just turned over 145K and plan to hit 250K or more. My last one (95 Jimmy) had 285K before it went to heaven.

 

[eutechnyx]

I really appreciate the help and knowledgeable advice. I can't wait to drop the pan and see whats going on in there. I'm kind of scared lol

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

I really appreciate the help and knowledgeable advice. I can't wait to drop the pan and see whats going on in there. I'm kind of scared lol

You should be good to go. The pan with drain is an excellent idea. Just remember there are two filters for our tranny's. You need to find out if you have the deep pan or the shallow pan.

I will bet once you drop the pan you will find a large amount of sludge and heavily coated magnet. I use brake cleaner to clean things out and then make sure it is all evaporated and dried out before reassembly. A collar that comes with the new filter but it is a pain to get the old one out of the tranny body. I have just left the old on in and inserted the new filter into it. If it is loose perhaps an extraction and reinsertion is warranted.

 

[meerschm]

make sure the new pan has a magnet, or reuse the one from the old pan (if it is magnetic)

and be careful putting the pan bolts back in. they cross thread easily (please don't ask me how I know)

 

[eutechnyx]

Thanks for the tips guys,I plan to go with a filter change and refill,and a couple drain and fills after that. I know overall its the most expensive and time consuming method but I just feel safer that way. I will inspect the dorman and make sure it has a magnet,my VIN says its the deep pan and luckily the Dorman requires a deep pan filter.

 

[eutechnyx]

One other question,the new rubber gasket for the pan can the old one be re used? If not do I need any type of sealer on the new gasket?

 

[CaptainXL]

One other question,the new rubber gasket for the pan can the old one be re used? If not do I need any type of sealer on the new gasket?

The ACDelco kit should come with a preformed neoprene gasket. No sealer required nor recommended. And remember to torque the pan bolts in a criss cross pattern. Not sure about reusing the original gasket. It would be trivial to not install the new one that came in the kit.

 

[Sparky]

The ACDelco kit should come with a preformed neoprene gasket. No sealer required nor recommended. And remember to torque the pan bolts in a criss cross pattern. Not sure about reusing the original gasket. It would be trivial to not install the new one that came in the kit.

This.

Pretty much every filter kit I've seen comes with a new pan gasket

 

[meerschm]

one more thing to check.

the deep pan filter has a notch out of it. I purchased one from the local NAPA dealer which had the wrong filter in the box part number was correct, but the wrong part.
(it did come with a black rubber type gasket(not a cork one))


you want this one:

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not this one:

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