After replacing thermostat and water pump and putting all back together battery light came on. In order to replace thermostat, I removed the alternator, but kept the wiring connected. I was careful when moving alternator as to not mess up connections. The battery was not connected through all of this. After reassembly, I read the voltage with car running and it showed 14.5 V. After test driving, the voltage to at the battery showed 14.1 V. I checked resistance in the wire from alternator to battery and it showed good. Good news is no leaks and grinding sounds are gone. Can the alternator be removed without removing fan and shroud? What to check next?
Battery light on
- Thread starter JimCshoe
- Start date
I would check the 2 pin connector at the alternator. There have been many reports of one of the wires in that connector breaking off inside the connector. Gently pull on each of them to see if one pops out.
And yeah the alternator can be wiggled out without removing the fan and/or shroud.
edit - got ninja'd!
And yeah the alternator can be wiggled out without removing the fan and/or shroud.
edit - got ninja'd!
If one of those wires is loose can that be repaired or do you need to buy a new connector. After wiggling the wires I got the Voltage to go to 14.3 V, before was 14.1 V. So I have a feeling you are right about where the problem is. Test drive was a bumpy country road and V dropped from 14.5 to 14.1 so probably bounced wire loose a bit more.
If one is broken, it depends on where it is broken that determines if it will need a new connector. If it broke off flush with the crimp in the pin, the connector is more readily available then the pin itself. If there is broken off after the crimp, it can be repaired.
I don't have my notes in front of me but IIRC one wire is the from the pcm to turn the alt on, and the other is used by the pcm to monitor the duty cycle. If the monitor wire is broken, the alt will still charge and the battery light will come on, which sounds like what is going on with yours. If you have a code reader you might pull a P0621 or P0622 code even though the check engine light isn't on.
I don't have my notes in front of me but IIRC one wire is the from the pcm to turn the alt on, and the other is used by the pcm to monitor the duty cycle. If the monitor wire is broken, the alt will still charge and the battery light will come on, which sounds like what is going on with yours. If you have a code reader you might pull a P0621 or P0622 code even though the check engine light isn't on.
If I replace the connector, do I splice into the existing wires or run them to the PCM? This car is almost a constant test of patience. It gives me something to use my tools on and a need for more. Thanks for help. This is a great site.
Splice for sure. The wires coming off of the new connector will be 6" or so long. Cut the old connector off and splice the wires into the new connectors wires. Also, the grey wire is the one that I suspect is broken.
Here's how they are oriented in the connector, with the connector facing you:
Here's how they are oriented in the connector, with the connector facing you:
I ended up replacing the 2 pin connector, cut off the old connector and soldered to the existing wires. All went well and the battery light went off and it is charging at 14.6 V at normal idle. All is well for the moment. Appreciate all the help. On to getting the old 8N running.
