NEED HELP ABS code C0222

[EHJIII]

2003 Suburban without JL4 option. C0222 lights the ABS light almost constantly. I would say it is intermittent since it does clear occasionally but only for a moment. Used my blue driver and the noun name of the fault is “rear ABS channel in release too long”.
What is odd is almost everyone on line says this code is actually the right front wheel sensor.
Using the GM official shop manual says to troubleshoot the wheel sensors then wiring. If nothing wrong is found, replace the Electronic Brake Control Module.
I have verified both front wheel sensors. Voltage output is at least a half a volt (good) and resistance to ground is infinite. I did all of these checks while wiggling the wiring to the best of my ability. All connections are very good condition. I also have a new wheel sensor I have tried on both front wheels and it makes no difference.
Since there is some confusion on my part due to the noun name addressing the rear ABS channel and what folks on line say it is, I had the codes read with 2 different readers. All agree C0222 is the rear channel in release too long.
Without the JL4 option, the rear wheel speed signal comes from the VSS (vehicle speed sensor which feeds data to the power train module, which in turn sends a signal to the ABS (Electronic Brake Control Module) that modulates both rear wheels as a pair. I did not pull the VSS since the speedometer reading is good so I have not checked any connectors that contain the VSS signal going to or from the power train control module. Since it occasionally will clear for a moment, I still think it might be a wiring issue. Any advice is greatly appreciated before I begin replacing parts.

 

[azswiss]

Do you have the ability to define custom PID's (e.g. with the Torque app)? Check to see if you get the wheel speed readings using the following PID formulas:

Long Name	Mode & PID	Formula
[GM]ABS Front Left Wheel Speed	224051	A
[GM]ABS Front Right Wheel Speed	224052	A
[GM]ABS Rear Right Wheel Speed	224053	A
[GM]ABS Rear Left Wheel Speed	224054	A

Also, solder joint issues are known to occur in the ABS module on trucks of this vintage. There are multiple videos on YouTube that go over resoldering/repairs.

 

[Mooseman]

Uh, did you Google that code? All of the results say a faulty right front speed sensor.

C0222 Chevrolet: Code Meaning, Causes, Symptoms, & Tech Notes

As the wheel spins, the wheel speed sensor produces an Alternating Current (AC) signal. The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) uses the frequency of

www.engine-codes.com

I am not familiar with the Blue Driver. If it has the ability to show live data, display the two front sensors at the same time and see if they match while rolling. Very often when a wheel sensor goes out is because of a wheel bearing about to completely fail, which the sensor may not manifest itself with no weight on it.

 

[mrrsm]

For now... Hold Off on looking at the VSS... and concentrate on some Basic Diagnostics of the Wiring Harness(es) leading from the Wheel Hub Assembly up to the ABS Module and observe the advice to be found in these Two Videos:

How NOT to Diagnose (or...FUBAR) a Wheel Speed Sensor Harness:

WTDI (What To Do IF) the Wheel Speed Sensor Checks Out Okay… BUT the WSS Code Keeps Coming BACK:

...and as mentioned in the Last Video as necessary for use in your latest Diagnostic efforts... THIS is the ABS Wiring Diagram for a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban:



One Last Thing Worth Mentioning:

The ABS Wheel Sensor generates its OWN Weak Alternating Current that averages around 450 Milli-Volts as the Wheel decelerates to around 3-5 MPH. As such, this arrangement requires a certain number of *Twists* to be worked into the length of Wire Pigtail adjacent to the Connector of the Wheel Hub itself.

This action (performed at the factory) is necessary in order to cancel out environmental or ambient RF (Radio Frequency) Electro-Magnetic Fields that can be picked up in any Un-Twisted Harness Wires and allow the interference to confuse the Signals coming and going, to and from the ABS Wheel Sensor "Computer" and then down inside of the Tiny Wheel Hub A/C Generator Coil and Tone Ring. Don't eliminate or add any more *Twists* than the Factory has previously wound into that Pair of Harness Wires.

 

[EHJIII]

Great stuff from all that replied today.
The blue driver has limited real time data so I have a high quality reader in route so I can graph the health of specific components such as the individual wheel sensors.
All Internet sources say the right front wheel sensor circuit is the problem.
The cool videos, specifically the connector/wiring testing video shows I need to do a voltage check and current check. I only inspected connectors (good test) and I only checked for continuity and for ground using ohms while wiggling the wires (both good results). I did not change the twists that are installed to minimize circuit noise. If all fails to reveal the issue, I’m guessing the next step would be to check for bad solder joints in the EBCM. Thanks again to all so far for the great insights. Will keep you posted.
When the new reader arrives, I will test again before opening the EBCM.

 

[EHJIII]

I failed to mention I cleaned ground point G110.

 

[Mooseman]

My money is on a bad wheel hub.