4L60E upgrades, shift kit and new separator plate

DocBrown

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
501
I finally was able to install my Transgo shift kit, separator plate, and replacement accumulator pistons. Wow, what a difference. Its almost like driving a different truck. Nice smooth, fast shifts. No more “hanging” between shifts! The short story to this is that a couple of months ago I noticed that it was hunting between 3 & 4 much more than it normally should, especially when the trans was cold. One of the suggestions was that it might be a worn separator plate. Turned out it was low fluid. However, being that I have 150k on it and tow a travel trailer, I decided to do the upgrades anyway because I want to get as much out of this truck as I can. All in all, it was well worth the effort! I highly recommend doing this if you are mechanically inclined and hate the sloppy performance of the 4L60E. This was fun to do and a great learning experience. Read on for more detail of my experience...

This is not a how to post, see the links below for excellent detail on how to do this. This is just to share how my upgrades went and some lessons learned. The threads below were a big help, as are the BoxWrench videos on YouTube. This was not a physically hard job, just tedious and time consuming. Now many people swear by the notion of having an axillary transmission cooler. I did put one on a few months ago because I'm now towing a larger, heavier trailer than I used to. However, based on the condition of my valve body and separator plate, I'm not convinced that we need them. With all the miles on mine, I was expecting clear evidence of wear and tear. Not only were the plastic accumulator pistons in perfect condition, the separator plate looked great also with no signs of check ball damage. I think the secret is preventing gear hunting on hills and in the wind. Adjust your driving to accommodate the conditions. And use Dexron VI on the older transmissions that came with Dexron III.

I don't need to repeat everything in the posts below, but here's a couple of notes.
1) If you do this, put everything back exactly the way you found it unless the instruction sheet tells you otherwise. In dfc739's accumulator post (linked) there is a shot of the first accumulator piston and spring. Mine was not like that at all, the crown of the piston on mine was facing the separator plate, not the spring. After the fact, the only info I can find on the correct position is that it was changed by GM at some point in the 4L60E's history. There seems to be differences of opinion as to the effect of having either the spring or the piston head face the separator plate. Hard shifts vs soft ones. Supposedly the change was made to soften the shift between 1st and 2nd.

2) The TransGo instructions show 3 possible piston types for the 1-2 piston. The one I ordered was not the one in the transmission. Since it said to reuse the same spring anyway for my type of piston and I didn't have the right piston, I put the plastic one back in. I didn't want to, but its an easy piston to get at and doesn't require removal of the valve body so I may replace it later. I was however able to replace the other accumulator piston on the valve body.

3) I did not enlarge any oil holes on the separator plate. Aside from one item that I didn't install anyway, instructions say that “you will be pretty happy” with the plate as is and enlarging some of the holes is optional. I can say that I fully agree. It shifts beautifully.

4) Trust the instructions, in that several of the spring replacements may be a bit shorter than the factory ones. This is to change the shift firmness and speed. It made me a bit nervous until I drove it.

5) The basic shift kit that dfc739 links to also includes some springs that are used for a valve replacements that don't come with the kit, and there are springs for parts in the pump which I understand requires removal of the trans to install. There are also springs for the 2-4 servo that I didn't replace (see #7).

6) In hind sight, I wish I had bought just the shift kit first to understand what other things I could have ordered to make it more complete. Then again, I'm not sure I would have fully understood until I had the valve body out.

7) I did buy, but did not install the Corvette servo. Time was getting away from us (5 hours to do this!) and since we didn't need to remove the cross member anyway to get at the pan, I decided not to bother with the servo. So there was a bunch of extra stuff in the kit for the 2-4 servo as well that didn't get used.

http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-remove-4l60e-valve-body-replace-plastic-accumulator-pistons-4972/

http://gmtnation.com/f24/built-4l60e-replacement-4894/
 

DocBrown

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
501
All the parts, including the shift kit are linked in post #5 of the "built-4l60e-replacement" thread that I linked to.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,494
Ottawa, ON
That is a nice write up. Good pics. Definitely looking at doing this on mine now.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
That's great news that it's shifting as it should now..:thumbsup: I think you did good on the separator plate, a fresh plate is a very worthwhile piece IMO. The check balls were perfect in mine, I even reused them, but it was the plate that takes a pounding and once the check ball pushes through it's game over for the plate and maybe even the trans if you aren't aware of what's happening.

Here's a pic of my plate where the check balls hammered the openings, very easy to see.

CA2_1639a_zps4c0df0cf.jpg
 

v7guy

Member
Dec 4, 2011
298
yup, my separator plate looked just as bad. Maybe a bit worse. There were a few holes I was worried that the check balls were on the verge of pushing through. There are some plastic replacement for the checkballs that are supposedly wonderful, but I didn't bother with them.

The shift kit is pretty straightforward, you just have to make sure you follow the directions and triple check everything you do.
 

DocBrown

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
501
gmcman said:
That's great news that it's shifting as it should now..:thumbsup: I think you did good on the separator plate, a fresh plate is a very worthwhile piece IMO. The check balls were perfect in mine, I even reused them, but it was the plate that takes a pounding and once the check ball pushes through it's game over for the plate and maybe even the trans if you aren't aware of what's happening.

Here's a pic of my plate where the check balls hammered the openings, very easy to see.

Thanks for the photo. I didn't know what a worn one actually looked like. Given some of the strange behavior of mine over the past year or so I fully expected to have a very worn plate but it looked perfect when I took it out. That said, the TransGo plate is drilled a bit differently and was an easy and worthwhile upgrade.
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
Alright just did my 4l60e @ 165k miles. I was getting that rpm flutter for long enough so decided to do the upgrade. Install went ok til I drilled one to many holes in New separator plate. Just had to wait to receive new plate to finish it. I went with CtPowetrains kit without the manual since I had the factory helm manual already. I did my corvette servo without dropping crossmember or exhaust so it was easy for me on that part. Also I didn't use the gold spacer since it seemed to make the band too tight with it. Have driven it a little today and all seems good. No more flutter and can really feel that 1-2 firm shift. One other thing Transgo tech line, Sonnax tech line and Sean at CtPowwertrain were all available on the phone for any questions I had. So no worries if you get lost or in a bind like I sorta did.
 

dp28688

Member
Dec 12, 2011
21
about how long did it take to install everything in the kit? Im deciding if i want to attempt or have a garage do it. would be much easier with lift.
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
Took me a good 8-10 hrs from start to finish. Not really complicated just gotta follow directions of kit which for me was time consuming. Placed mine on Jack stands and plenty of room lift not really necessary. YouTube has some good videos too which I watched multiple times. After a week of driving about 400 miles I just noticed it doesn't want to stay in 4th gear. Can anyone help with this issue?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
tmm217 said:
After a week of driving about 400 miles I just noticed it doesn't want to stay in 4th gear. Can anyone help with this issue?

Please elaborate. Does it downshift or does the TCC come out of lockup? You stated you didn't use the gold spacer, did you verify that you had about 1/8" gap when depressed? Can you push on the cover and if so how far will it push in?

Are you absolutely certain the large O-rings aren't twisted?

Can you post a vid?
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
Sorry for the short detail. All shifted and locked in overdrive for first 300ish miles. The day it lost holding 4th I was doing a lot stop and go then like 30 miles of 70mph in 4th and 2000 rpm. After exiting freeway and driving 45-55mph on 2lane rd it wouldn't go into 4th. Drove it today on 2 lane rd at 50mph and would only go into 4th on downhill coast as soon as accelerating right back to 3rd. I'm sure I have at least 1/8 movement in cover. Not sure on how much though. Is it that cover is too loose? Band would still slide with gold ring but it felt kinda snug so I went without it. I made sure orings on servo were not twisted and I lubed with Vaseline. Also how long can I drive with this like this? Thanks for the help.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Did you by chance get the 4th apply piston in backwards? It's much easier to lower the cross member to work at this but YMMV. I remove the bolts from the pass side and leave the left bolt in but just barely loosen it. Everything will lower as one with driveshaft connected with enough room to access the cover....use a floor jack.

The 4th clutches are a weak part of the trans so I would find out what's going on before you are out some coin. The thing about removing the cover is the outer seal may not be reusable, have a spare just in case.

Just a pointer...but you need to be clean when working with the trans. Did you do all this outside, did any debris get in the valve body?

I want to think something is amiss under the cover, but I would first check the shift linkage. If all is good then I would pull the cover again and triple check everything. If that doesn't fix it, then it could be a solenoid that isn't fully seated, loose connection. After that you may have a valve body issue but try the easy things first.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I went back and read your first post again and noticed that you did not add the vette servo...I thought you did.

Did you get a deep pan filter?

I would start at the shift linkage.
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
Yep did the vette servo. Can get cover off as it is no removing crewmembers. I just don't get y it worked fine for awhile then not now. Used tons of brake clean and yes did it in driveway. Should I add gold band and see what happens? I'm sure all the connections or good I double checked all. what solenoid holds 4th?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I think the 1st solenoid also energizes for 4th, I don't think that's the problem though...you can check.

First I would make sure the shift linkage is secure, then I would pull the servo cover. When I added the vette servo, I only replaced the 2nd apply piston (vette) and the seals...everything else I left alone. pull the cover and note the position of the 4th apply piston, this is the first one you will see.....should have a dish facing out, the flatter side faces inwards.

Is the fluid level ok? What about the filter...did you get a deep pan? (required)
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
Alright will check position of 4th servo. What should I expect of it? Yes deep pan filter. Does the shift to 4th on downhill roll then back to 3rd on slight accel leave any clues? Also will driving in 3rd be ok til this gets figured out. Really cant afford to have this truck outta service for long and all other shifts (reverse, 1-2 2-3) seem to be good.
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
Ok removed servo cover to find that about a 1" of the 4th piston nylon seal rolled over. Also part of the casing broke away kinda like this pic but not so bad that it doesnt hold the snap ring. Cover would not pry in either to remove the snap ring and the pin with corvette servo was tight in housing. Removed it all got a new seal and now back together with cover having inward movement and now installed with gold spacer from transgo. Didnt notice a difference in shift stiffness with gold spacer but now have all 4 gears so maybe the band adjustment was too loose. Wish me luck. I just wonder what caused this all to happen
DSC00030.jpg
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Only thing to do is pull the cover and make a note and maybe a pic, of how everything is oriented under the cover. You may have put a piston in backwards, could have been the pin you replaced, the stock one should have been the proper length I believe.

Wow....that's bummer though...never seen that.

Looking at that again, was the snap ring positioned properly....shouldn't have popped out like that.
 

tmm217

Member
Oct 18, 2012
44
gmcman said:
Only thing to do is pull the cover and make a note and maybe a pic, of how everything is oriented under the cover. You may have put a piston in backwards, could have been the pin you replaced, the stock one should have been the proper length I believe.

Wow....that's bummer though...never seen that.

Looking at that again, was the snap ring positioned properly....shouldn't have popped out like that.
Everything was in properly. The only thing that could of happened was the ring wasn't in the right position if there is a certain position is has to be in. Maybe something to do with the rolled over nylon seal on 4th piston. That pic is not of mine but it is similar to that but not as bad. I replaced seal and drove a few miles shifted good and no leaks I'm just worried this might happen again and I will have to replace whole transmission due to servo cover leaking or not staying on.
 

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