2004 Trailblazer LS Wont Turnover

808_LS_EXT

Member
Aug 28, 2014
305
CollectorThis said:
I'm sorry it took so long but I did get that bezel shipped. It wouldnt safely fit in a flat rate box but its on the way. Tracking # 9400109699938909710768
Received! :thumbsup:

... and it fits snug with only 3 clips :yes:
 

808_LS_EXT

Member
Aug 28, 2014
305
CollectorThis said:
  • I got a NOID light but havent used it yet. I just noticed I dont get that CLUNK from the throttle body when I turn the key anymore. I know I use to get it but not now "one thing after another"
Ugh.

Any other updates?
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
808_LS_EXT said:
Received! :thumbsup:

... and it fits snug with only 3 clips :yes:
Awesome.
808_LS_EXT said:
Ugh.

Any other updates?
Well... I noticed that the black harness that plugs into the under the hood fuse block smells like burnt plastic. I've decided to order some heat shrink stuff and I'm going to splice in a new one (about 30 wires) Maybe that will atleast get it to try to crank when I turn the key.
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
Well... I got the stuff to splice the wires but I've been to nervous to do it. I did plug up a code reader but it would not connect. The OBD port shows power with a test light though. I do think that black harness is part of the issue.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
I'm not sure what harness you're talking about (haven't looked at them much) but it's just a matter of matching colors, go one at a time. Cut one, splice it, then move on to the next. That way you'll only have one wire loose at a time and there will be no way to get them mixed up. I would HIGHLY recommend soldering the wires, butt-connectors are bulky and un-trustable.

Good luck. :tiphat:
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
Mounce said:
I'm not sure what harness you're talking about (haven't looked at them much) but it's just a matter of matching colors, go one at a time. Cut one, splice it, then move on to the next. That way you'll only have one wire loose at a time and there will be no way to get them mixed up. I would HIGHLY recommend soldering the wires, butt-connectors are bulky and un-trustable.

Good luck. :tiphat:
Thank Mounce. If the weather is ok tomorrow I'll give it a shot after the Falcons season comes to a end. I agree with the solder but I'm just going at it ghetto first to see if it works.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Lol alright, just make sure you go back and do it right in the end. :yes: Also, if you use some kind of crimp connectors, pull on the wires, don't want any of them coming loose and shorting out, make sure they're tight.
 

Eric04

Member
Dec 3, 2014
392
West Michigan
CollectorThis said:
Thank Mounce. If the weather is ok tomorrow I'll give it a shot after the Falcons season comes to a end. I agree with the solder but I'm just going at it ghetto first to see if it works.
As someone who's had to go at things ghetto style from time to time due to lack of funds, I hear you. I owned an 88 Dodge pickup until last year which developed several electrical problems, mostly due to age/corrosion. It's time consuming and not much fun chasing down ghosts but keep at it and fight the urge to rush your work. Good luck!
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
So... I would like to say I'm sorry. But I did not swap that harness. I popped the hood to do it today and out the corner of my eye I found this thing unplugged and tucked behind the radiator area. If you follow the wires from the fuse box harness I was going to replace the beginning of this comes from those wires. It's by the battery and headlight area. I just spent a hour looking at moosemans diagrams but I don't understand it. Anyone know where this plugs into?
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
So... I would like to say I'm sorry. But I did not swap that harness. I popped the hood to do it today and out the corner of my eye I found this thing unplugged and tucked behind the radiator area. If you follow the wires from the fuse box harness I was going to replace the beginning of this comes from those wires. It's by the battery and headlight area. I just spent a hour looking at moosemans diagrams but I don't understand it. Anyone know where this plugs into?
 

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Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
Coolasice, I think you are correct for the 2008 I6, but this may be his fan
connection on a 2004 I6.
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
coolasice said:
C118 Forward Lamp Harness to Cooling Fan Tether Harness...


not used on the 4.2l
A+ for effor man. Thanks

Texan said:
Coolasice, I think you are correct for the 2008 I6, but this may be his fan
connection on a 2004 I6.
Thank you. Do you know if this would prevent it from starting?
 

Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
I just looked at mine and do believe it to be the cooling fan connector, assuming that
you still have a computer controlled fan. I do not think that it would keep the engine
from starting. Do you have a volt meter (DMM) and or a test light that you could use
to do some testing?
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
Texan said:
" I do not think that it would keep the engine
from starting"
:sadcry: When I found this I thought yippie problem solved. Yes I do have a volt meter and a test light.
 

Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
This thread is quite long. So, lets start over. Will the starter turn the engine over?
If it does, are the spark plugs firing?
 

coolasice

Member
Oct 27, 2013
1,019
Northern Maine
Texan said:
Coolasice, I think you are correct for the 2008 I6, but this may be his fan
connection on a 2004 I6.
Ah yes my bad, is used on those older ones, not present on 08-09
 

Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
If you can get a can of starter fluid (spray can) and spray it into the throttle body while
cranking with the key on, and it try's to start and/or run, you will know if it has fire. My require
a helper to do this.

Edie: did you reconnect the cooling fan?
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
Texan said:
If you can get a can of starter fluid (spray can) and spray it into the throttle body while
cranking with the key on, and it try's to start and/or run, you will know if it has fire. My require
a helper to do this.

Edie: did you reconnect the cooling fan?
I did try this a while back with no luck. I have not reconnected the fan yet. It's 14 degrees out there with 20 mph wind gust.
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
I just want to add that I've plugged up 2 code readers and they could not connect. I put a test light on the port and it had power.
 

Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
I looked back at post #58 about the transmission shifter, and the underline of the position
on the instrument panel. Assume you reconnected the shifter. If the code reader will not
connect with the computer with the key on, it makes me wonder if the PCM is getting power?
I do not have a wiring diagram handy, but check for power to it. I am going to be off-line for
a few days because of business, but will try to check back in when I can. Do you have the
shop manuals that you can download from Mooseman on this site?
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
How can I check for power to the PCM? I do not have the shop manuals but I can do that now. Thanks
 

CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
I'm done with this clunker. For some reason I'm missing the part that's circled. I can't deal with this thing any longer. Thanks for the help guys and I'm sorry that this thread will never have a answer. I'm selling this pos. Thanks to all who took time from their life to try and help a complete idiot.
 

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Eric04

Member
Dec 3, 2014
392
West Michigan
Used vehicles are always a gamble and you knew this one was especially so. You're not an idiot, you just rolled the dice and came up craps. Recoup what you can out of that hog and don't sweat it.
 
May 5, 2013
434
Damn, I was pulling for you bro.
 
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CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
Eric04 said:
Used vehicles are always a gamble and you knew this one was especially so. You're not an idiot, you just rolled the dice and came up craps. Recoup what you can out of that hog and don't sweat it.
Thanks man for some reason it felt real good to read that. I'm going to get what I can and spend a few hundred bucks to get the greatest gift I've ever got on the road again. My Grandfathers 1971 C-10. There's not a lot of electronic bull chit in it. I put a new engine in it 6 years ago and only put 10k miles on it. I don't know why I let it rot. But Old Yeller is coming back to life!!!

SmokeyMcBlazer said:
Damn, I was pulling for you bro.
As was most of GMT Nation. Thanks for the support. I will see if the buyer will be nice enough to let me know what the problem was once / if they figure it out.
 

Eric04

Member
Dec 3, 2014
392
West Michigan
Love those old trucks. Don't see many of them here thanks to road salt. When you get that puppy rolling you should toss a pic or two up.
 
May 5, 2013
434
CollectorThis said:
I'm going to get what I can and spend a few hundred bucks to get the greatest gift I've ever got on the road again. My Grandfathers 1971 C-10. There's not a lot of electronic bull chit in it. I put a new engine in it 6 years ago and only put 10k miles on it. I don't know why I let it rot. But Old Yeller is coming back to life!!!
Well, there's room for all kinds of GM Trucks here on the Nation. Bring lots of pics....
 
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Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
CollectorThis said:
I will see if the buyer will be nice enough to let me know what the problem was once / if they figure it out.
Tell the buyer about us. Give them the Web address and tell them to come here and we will help them.

No problem with running out of patience for it and I too will say that you're not an idiot. Sometimes there's only so much of something that you can handle before you've gotta throw in the towel.

Also, hopefully you'll still come around. There's a few of us here (myself included) that'll drool over pics of your old truck. I'd love for you to start a build thread and post your progress and pics of it in there.
 
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CollectorThis

Original poster
Member
Jul 2, 2014
58
Eric04 said:
Love those old trucks. Don't see many of them here thanks to road salt. When you get that puppy rolling you should toss a pic or two up.
I will post a few pics for sure. It's a rust bucket but I'm bout sure all it needs is tires and a battery. Plust the simple tune up. I just parked it because of $4 gas. But with gas at $1.99 now is a better time then ever.
SmokeyMcBlazer said:
Well, there's room for all kinds of GM Trucks here on the Nation. Bring lots of pics....
I will post just a few. It's nothing to brag about for now.

Mounce said:
Tell the buyer about us. Give them the Web address and tell them to come here and we will help them.

No problem with running out of patience for it and I too will say that you're not an idiot. Sometimes there's only so much of something that you can handle before you've gotta throw in the towel.

Also, hopefully you'll still come around. There's a few of us here (myself included) that'll drool over pics of your old truck. I'd love for you to start a build thread and post your progress and pics of it in there.
I will tell them about you guys for sure. I might start a thread but the little bit I get for the TB won't be enough to build that show truck I want it to be some day.
 
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Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
I know what you mean, I've got a 65 GMC stepside that I'm wanting to fix up. Definitely gonna be a big black hole of a money pit but it'll be worth it in the end. It'll probably cost as much as a 09 TB with 25,000 miles by the time I'm done lol.
 
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Texan

Member
Jan 14, 2014
622
Those old Chevy PU's are hard to beat. If I was younger, I would find one to restore.
I am back on line, was out of town for a few days. I think you should fix your C10
and drive it, while having time to sort out the TB. I look at it as a challenge. Find a
Pick a Part place to get the missing parts.
 

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