2003 Trailblazer Rear A/C Line Leak - Need advice/help

[franktroy]

I just got a $2,500 estimate to fix an a/c leak on my 2003 trailblazer. This price includes replacement of the rear a/c lines and evaporator unit.

The overpriced repair shop said the rear a/c line on the frame is ruptured. It seems to be a common problem with these lines from what I understand since they are exposed.

I've decided to attempt to fix this myself. How hard can it be? It cant be any worse than replacing the fuel pump (which i did as well) which was an OMG moment.

Can anyone tell me where these lines are located on the frame? They supposedly run to a rear evaporator unit which I think is inside the the cab somewhere. Pointers to diagrams would be great.

Thanks in advance,
Frank

 

[The_Roadie]

Welcome!

Member Mooseman offers up some manuals for download on a pinned thread you should be able to find with a short poke about. Sorry I don't keep a direct link handy.

The evap is under the side panel in the way back of the cargo compartment - passenger side. It is indeed a bear to change the lines because youhave to lift the body off the mounts a few inches.

There have been many discussions here (you should also run a search) about aftermarket lines made of flexible hose that are easier for the DIY'er or independent mechanic to run. Or if you don't need the wayback AC, just have a shop seal off those lines and abandon the rear AC.

 

[nunzio738]

First do you have a set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump? Do you have a basic understanding of how an AC system works. If not seek professional help. Since I work in the Automotive industry (not an automotive tech any more) I have these types of tools.

If you are not really using the third row seating like I don't, I purchased a rear block off kit from EBAY. Comes with two block-off adapters one for low and high side, 2 seals and nuts and bolts. Total time to install kit about an 1/2 hour to 45 min, depending on your skill level. May be longer. This does not included vacuuming down your system and charging. Add an additional hour for that.

Passenger side you have to completely remove the threaded stud to get the line separated. It should be a TORX style bolt at least it was on my 2006 TB. It is sealed in place so some mild heat may be needed to remove bolt. Again mild heat. Drivers side a little bit of a challenge since you have the inner metal fender well in the way. It can be done with a 13 mm short wrench coming from the right side opening and working it little by little. Since the drivers side line is also a hose, to give you more clearance you may need to remove the front bolt that holds the line to the engine. Then tie wrap or secure the lines in some manner to keep them from breaking during your travels.

Once that is complete vacuum down the system for 30-45 minutes. Shut of vacuum pump and let sit for about 10 mins, Check low side gauge for any drop in vacuum. If the low side drops you have a leak at your fitting or some place else.

Any questions feel free to send me a message.

 

[Mooseman]

Here's a thread that talks about this very well with both options of blocking off and replacing the lines:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/7819-replacing-rear-air-conditioner-lines-in-tb-ext/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bblock+%2Boff#entry286008

And here's a block off kit if you want to go that route:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/A-C-BLOCK-OFF-KIT-FOR-REAR-AIR-2002-2009-CHEVROLET-TRAILBLAZER-/390894185676?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b031beccc&vxp=mtr

If you do go that route, be sure to replace the orifice tube to a white one which is what is required for a single system (dual uses a gold orifice tube)