2002+ Bravada/Envoy/Trailblazer air suspension compressor - why they fail

darsch

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2014
33
As per another post, I replaced my air suspension with inexpensive coil springs as my bags were leaky and the compressor wasn't pumping things up anymore plus the compressor was very noisy lately. So here's a report of what I found after taking my compressor apart.

The first picture shows the only serviceable part of the compressor. It's called the check valve service kit. As you can see I had to grind off the Torx screw heads. This type of head should never have been invented along with the Philips head, totally useless when things are corroded. Anyways, the gasket was virtually gone and salt had gotten inside. I would suggest if your compressor still works that it wouldn't be a bad idea to spend the money and at least get the new gasket on there, especially if you drive on salty roads and as long as you can get the screws out in one piece. I don't know what damage the salt did in there but it can't be good. Here is a link on how to replace the kit and the parts you get: http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/1jyix-envoy-senor-nothing-axle-overload.html

The second picture shows what my old parts of the kit looks like. You don't get much for $32.

The third picture is what the inside guts of the piston area looks like. I had to drill the rivets out to get this apart. Now if you can see in the rectangle hole is the piston, piston connecting rod connected to the crankshaft and the crankshaft connected to the compressor motor. There is some sort of sleeve between the connecting rod and the crankshaft that I guess holds the connecting rod in the proper aligned position while it pumps up and down. My sleeve, which you can't see in the photo, is cracked and loose which allows the connecting rod to travel left to right and also has some play in it up and down. This would be why my compressor got noisy, like a rattling sound. This whole area was full of fine metal and plastic debris. This may still pump but the misalignment may have caused a slight gap between the piston and wall causing a leak.

The fourth picture just shows the opposite side of the piston area where all the electrical is located.

I was going to take the compressor pump off but again it has the Torx screw heads and they won't budge so I didn't bother grinding them off. I don't think there's much to see there anyway but a person would have to remove it to get the piston out.

I hope you now understand a little more as to why the compressors fail. Thanks for looking.
 

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CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
Nice. Salt really kills things.

My rear coils are in the mail, and I'm glad I didn't bother with the check valve kit.
 

darsch

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2014
33
I should have also mentioned to just go to an auto wrecker and get used coil springs w/insulators for under $75/per pair. Don't waste your money on getting the new coil spring kit. The kit is even more expensive than buying the coils and insulators separately from an auto parts store like Lordco here in BC.

CarbEnvoy:
I'd be curious to know from you when you get the springs installed as to how you like the ride compared to before. I don't want to put a thought in your head but I have found that it seems like the air springs dampened the really small bumps better. Maybe I need new shocks too but I am comparing before to now.
 

CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
Hey, didn't even notice you were from BC!

I've already ordered springs online from RockAuto, they are in the mail. I ordered the XL rear springs from Raybestos, came to about $120 shipped. They will be stiffer than the air springs, or stock SWB springs. But I tow a trailer once in awhile, and I am thinking about doing a lift, and wanted the extra load capacity. Besides that, wreckers have limited supply of vehicles up here in Terrace.

I am probably going to replace the front springs as well if/when I do the lift. I was able to find a source for Moog springs in town for $79 for the pair. Again, the XL versions for a little extra lift. That's better than the online price even.

I'll report back once I get the springs installed. I'll have to replace the shocks too since my current Monroe's are the ones for the air springs. Going to upgrade to Bilstein HD's.
 

darsch

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2014
33
That is a good deal for XL springs. My coil springs seam fine so far with a trailer attached but I left myself the option of going with the Firestone air spring kit for $120 from Lordco if it sags too much. Just put them in the coils, run some air lines, a filler valve and it's completely customizable.
The part number for my shocks for air springs vs shocks for coil springs are the same so I didn't replace them but I imagine you'd need different ones for a lift.
How much tongue weight are you going to be dealing with on your trailer that you'll need everything HD or are you just going for overkill?
 

CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
The tongue weight of my trailer is 300lbs.

I'm going with the XL/EXT springs to add a bit of lift for going on logging roads and fishing at the river.

The Bilstein HD shocks are the 4600 series they make, and overall the consensus is that they are the best replacement shock available for our platform. Essex Distributors - Bilstein Shock Absorbers

I'm surprised that the part numbers for the air springs and coils was the same for you. The air spring shocks are shorter due to the truck always being level.

PS - I found an EXT trailblazer at the local wrecker today. They want $100 PER spring for the fronts. They will only sell it as a whole strut assembly. I said that's fine but the shocks are crap so I'm only buying it for the springs. He wouldn't budge on price. Might as well get brand new for that money.

EDIT - I see that they only list the air spring shocks for the Bravada. They must have only come with the air suspension, no coil option.
 

darsch

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2014
33
jsheahawk:
It frustrates me that everything made nowadays is designed to fail so out of my own curiosity and to help others understand how it's made, I took it apart. Plus I figured I had nothing to lose since new parts can't be found and I wasn't going to reinstall it. Glad you liked it.

CarbEnvoy:
I see the HD shocks for my truck are the same price as the standard replacement shocks. Good deal if you consider $88 each a good deal.
It always amazes me when trying to deal with some auto wreckers on how firm on their prices they are. They would rather wait for years to sell some parts than get some money now. Shocks especially should have next to no value unless the vehicle is fairly new. At least the wrecker I bought from valued the shocks at $10 each for the rear but they would probably be in the same condition as mine so I didn't buy them.
I thought the same thing about the rear shocks should be different but the part numbers were the same for the Envoys, Bravadas and Trailblazers.
 

CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
It would be the same for any that are equipped with air springs, like mine was. But for any that had coil springs there is a different part. See the shocks in my link, one is for with rear air suspension, and one for without.

It looks to me like all Bravada's were air suspension.
 

darsch

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2014
33
I guess I should have made myself more clear. You are talking HD shocks and I am talking about standard factory replacement shocks. The standard ones are the same across all three vehicle brands whether they have air ride or not. HD shocks are most likely designed much more specifically so then they will differ between air ride or no air ride.
 

CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
All the info I've read on this forum has shown there to be two different lengths of rear shocks. Either OEM replacements from ACDelco, or any of the aftermarket brands.

But I think I've lead this discussion away from the original post. Sorry.

Your pictures confirm that switching to coil springs is going to be cheaper and more durable in the long run. Especially when salt on the roads is a factor.
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
CarbEnvoy said:
All the info I've read on this forum has shown there to be two different lengths of rear shocks. Either OEM replacements from ACDelco, or any of the aftermarket brands.

But I think I've lead this discussion away from the original post. Sorry.

Your pictures confirm that switching to coil springs is going to be cheaper and more durable in the long run. Especially when salt on the roads is a factor.

Not sure on specific lengths but there was actually a slew of suspension components that came from the factory. Pretty much the computer figured up the weight at each wheel and selected a particular spring to be installed. There's tons and tons of RPO codes just for suspension components in these things.

I guess what it could boil down to is factory, or Z71 springs. People pull I believe Tahoe Z71 springs and put them up in there, they fit and alter the rear suspension characteristics.
 

CarbEnvoy

Member
Sep 29, 2012
38
The question is, are there different shocks for the rear depending on whether there are air springs installed, or coil springs?
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
CarbEnvoy said:
The question is, are there different shocks for the rear depending on whether there are air springs installed, or coil springs?

Shockwarehouse.com lists two different numbers for Bilstein HD rear shocks for my year/model/trim for air or no air. KYB shows the same number.

Hope that makes it clear as mud! :wootwoot:
 

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