,06 SLE Lower Control Arms

[miron]

I love Pennsylvania! My '06 with 150k failed inspection due to failed lower ball joints. Last year the uppers failed and I replaced those. First time for me. What a pleasurable experience. I should have known this was coming as my camber is way off and my last set of tires wore bald on the instide edge with plenty of tread on the rest. So I just purchased two control arms from RockAuto. My Chiltons is useless for this job. It basically says to take it in to a shop. So if anyone has a step-by-step including torque specs, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jimmyjam]

service manual mentions fancy j-tools. I remove the tie rod by tapping down on the bolt, the ball joint from the knuckle by tapping up. the shock yoke you can use a pickle fork or a pittman arm puller

Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel.
Remove the outer tie rod retaining nut.
Disconnect the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the J24319-B.
Remove the stabilizer shaft link lower retaining nut.
Disconnect the stabilizer shaft link and washer from the lower control arm.
Remove the shock module yoke lower mounting nut.
Disconnect the shock module yoke from the lower control arm using the J24319-B.
Remove the lower ball joint retaining nut.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from steering knuckle using the J43631.
Remove the lower control arm to lower control arm bracket mounting nuts.
Remove the lower control arm to lower control arm bracket mounting bolts.
Important: Note the direction the bolts are removed for installation.
Pivot the lower control arm outward and downward in order to disconnect the lower control arm from the lower control arm bracket.
Important: Take care not to disengage the axle shaft from the transmission (4WD only).
Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle.
Important: Ensure that the spacer stays in position on the front control arm bracket front bushing.
Installation Procedure
Position the lower control arm ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
Important: Take care not to disengage the axle shaft from the transmission.
Pivot the lower control arm outward and upward in order to connect the lower control arm to the lower control arm bracket.
Important: Ensure that the spacer stays in position on the front control arm bracket front bushing.
Install the lower control arm to lower control arm bracket mounting bolts.
Install the lower control arm to lower control arm bracket mounting nuts. Tighten the nuts to 130 Nm (96 ft. lbs.) .
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Important: Ensure that the lower control arm is parallel to the lower control arm bracket during the installation and tightening of the lower control arm mounting bolts and nuts. This will ensure correct alignment of the lower control arm bushings.
Connect the shock module yoke to the lower control arm.
Install the shock module yoke lower mounting nut. Tighten the nut to 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.) .
Install the lower ball joint retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 110 Nm (81 ft. lbs.) .
Install the stabilizer shaft link and washer to the lower control arm.
Important: There is a washer between the stabilizer shaft link and the lower control arm made of hardened steel and has a felt inner liner. Only replace this washer with an identical washer. Standard washers should not be used.
Install the stabilizer shaft link retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 155 Nm (114 ft. lbs.) .
Install the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle.
Install the outer tie rod retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.) .
Install the tire and wheel.
Lower the vehicle.
Inspect the front wheel alignment.

 

[miron]

Oh this sounds like it's gonna be fun! Thanks Jimmy for the procedure. You even included the torque specs! You're my hero! I just hope I can do both in a day. First time I try something it always takes a little longer than anticipated. I have a new CV Axle for the drivers side. I may as well replace it while I have everything apart. Wish me alot of luck, I'll need it.

 

[jimmyjam]

this came from alldatadiy.com BTW. could only post the text, there are pics as well. i have as subscription for every car I own, its worth every penny

 

[miron]

I just checked out the site. For $27 I will subscribe! You're my hero of the day Jimmy! Thanks!

 

[jimmyjam]

Check retailmenot.com for deal codes!

 

[miron]

SWEET! $8 savings on a subscription! Roadie never hooked me up like this! Well... maybe once or twice. He's bailed me out of some pretty tight jams.

 

[miron]

Just paid my $19 and WOW this is sweet! You were right. Nice pics that you can even zoom on! Print, laminate, and go to work! You have no idea how much I appreciate the advice. I may be able to do this afterall.

 

[miron]

The parts and labor section says this will take 1.5 hours to complete. I may just have to double that! lol

 

[jimmyjam]

well it is very nice that you used my photo as your avatar, i'm honored

 

[The_Roadie]

That avatar picture intimidates me. That's why I stayed silent on AlldataDIY.

 

[Hypnotoad]

Just paid my $19 and WOW this is sweet! You were right. Nice pics that you can even zoom on! Print, laminate, and go to work! You have no idea how much I appreciate the advice. I may be able to do this afterall.

You should check with you're local library. A lot of times they subscribe to alldata. I used to have to go to the library to use it at my old house, but our new library allows access from home through the library's website.

 

[miron]

Sorry guys but it's a selfie. I used to look like Roadie. Then on night I decided to have myself a Dunkin Donuts Iced latte and woke up the next morning looking like this. Now I keep wanting to say,"Awwl bee bawk". Wierd.

But anyway, thanks to all again for the great advice. Wish I knew about about the library thing before I spent all my beer money on Alldata! (sniffle) Keep yer eye open cause I know once I start this job I'll be running into some issues and will need some help. I always do...

 

[miron]

So I replaced the lower control arm this week end. Not really a hard job. Took alot of effort to brake some parts loose. I purchased the Kent-Moore puller and ball joint removal tools. These made the job soooo much easier! The control arms cam with new brackets. I did not replace these but utilized the OEMs. Very tight fit so I was comfortable with it. I do need to get an alignment as the sterring wheel is a little to the right. Again, it really wasn't difficult. The hardest part was breaking loose the passenger side stabilizer link. Thanks for the recommendation to use alldatadiy. This really came in handy. Now I just need to figur out why my power steering is squeeling. I went out and bought a new serpentine Saturday, put it on and it seemed to minimize the squeel but didn't eliminaste it. Fluid is fine, no leaks. Frustrating.

 

[Sparky]

Might be the pump is just tired.

Change the fluid out in the pump? I know you said it is fine but just the level or did you flush it out?

 

[miron]

Pump is tired/ Seriously? Lol. I just checked the level hot and cold. The fluid has 152k driving mile on it so yes, it could need replacing. Is there a procedure available for flushing?

 

[Sparky]

Tired as in worn. Not needing a nap

Take note of the current color your fluid is, and the color new fluid is (some is clear, some is a yellow tinge, etc).

Pump out the res, refill with fresh, start engine and crank wheel back and forth a couple times. Turn off, pump out, refill, start up, crank wheel, check fluid color. If still not the color of new fluid quite yet, do the drain and refill of the res a third time.

I had to pump and refill my res like 4-5 times to get it looking decent again. I let it go way too long and it looked like mud

 

[miron]

Whew! I thoght it need a nap. Thanks for the clairification! And mud? Yes, the fluid is quite dark. I'll pick up a gallon of fluid and take care of it ASAP.