YES NO YES NO YES NO..would someone set the record straight please on bleeding brakes

TheBigKahuna

Original poster
Member
Aug 29, 2012
18
Hey Guys. Finally getting all of the parts I need to be on the path to getting my envoy fixed. I got the pads and rotors and I figured to save a few bucks I would install them myself. I have read about supposing to "bleed the lines" when changing the rotors and pads and on the previous site (for which we do not speakth) there is a DIY that does not say one word about bleeding the brake lines in the diagram at all. It just shows a CClamp being used and taking the cap off of the master cylinder. I need to know not just for my safety but for the safety of my kids as well. What is quote on quote the safe and proper way to do it. Sorry but I have read too many opinions and now I'm confused as kid with a hundred dollar bill in a candy store.

2002 Envoy XL
129" wheelbase

I've changed the pads before but didn't bleed the lines. This time I'm changing the rotors and putting new pads on again and I never had a problem with the ABS from the last time I did it just using the CClamp. Yes all new fluid was put in last time and the old was flushed before that (2 yrs ago).

I just want to do what is right to keep me and the kiddos safe. I can't take it to the garage because I don't really have the extra cash right now and I am confident that I can do the brakes as I've done them on my cavalier and sierra when I had them.
It failed inspection because of needing the old replaced. I also have to install an outer left tie rod to pass inspection as well.....
:crazy:
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,019
No need to bleed the lines, unless you introduce air into the system.

Use the C clamp method to do the pads, and since the pads are off the rotors, you just pull them off and put the new ones on.

When everything is done, put the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir and pump the brakes...just make sure you check the fluid level after you've done that and top up if necessary.
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
:iagree: no reason to mess with the brake fluid, especially if it was replaced 2 years ago
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
This thread will become very "opinionated" real fast so I will add my 2¢ (now 0¢ since we don't have the penny anymore). There will be those who will say that you need to open the bleeder while pushing the piston back in the caliper to prevent junk from being pushed back into the ABS system and causing damage. This is a myth which was started a few years ago with the advent of ABS systems. I have never seen this in ANY real manual, including those I have for download as well as AllData, which are essentially factory manuals.

So, as said so far, no need to bleed the brakes. If you wouldn't have replaced the fluid recently, I would have recommended that you flush the system.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
In my 15 years of changing brakes on my cars, parents cars, friends cars, etc... I've never bled the brakes while doing a rotor/pad change... now changing calipers, definitely bleed brakes... but you'll be fine without bleeding on just a rotor/pad swap...
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Like everyone else said no need to bleed. You may need 2 clamps on the front calipers, or you can get away with one if you use an old pad to push the pistons back in.

I will even say (please do not follow this example), but my old beater Buick regal. Never had the brakes flushed, or bled (to my knowledge). It had over 245k miles when the motor went. Never had a problem.
 

meerschm

Member
Aug 26, 2012
1,079
just keep an eye on the level in the master, you do not want it to flow all over and eat the paint. (unless you like that look)
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
meerschm said:
just keep an eye on the level in the master, you do not want it to flow all over and eat the paint. (unless you like that look)

I found an easy solution to this, after you complete swapping pads on each wheel. Climb in the truck and pump the brakes to get the pads to seat against the rotor. Should push a decent amount of fluid back into the caliper.
 
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blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
stormsurge said:
I don't even take the cap off. I just use a big c clamp.

I did all 4 wheels once and overflowed the damn reservoir. Cap was tight and the fluid found a way out. Reason I now will pump the brakes after the pads are changed and reassembled on each wheel.

TheBigKahuna said:
and it does no damage to leave the cap on?

Nope, if the fluid wants out it will get out through the cap (self venting). I have never damaged anything.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,045
Brighton, CO
Just like everyone else says, do not EVER bleed a brake system unless the brake system has been opened up (IE- Replaced caliper, replaced brake line, replaced wheel cylinder), or you are performing a brake fluid flush (which I have never done).

There is, however, one exception to that rule, which only applies to self powered brake systems (Teves, Bosch, etc) which the GMT360 does not have.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The reason that the reservoir overflows is because people will top it up as the pads wear so that it will always be at the full mark. As the pads wear, the fluid will normally go down. When you push the pistons back in, the same fluid will just go back into the reservoir and when all are done, it will be back at the full mark. As long as you don't wear them all down so much that it goes below the minimum mark, it can be left alone. I never open mine except when I do the brakes.

And it's also a good idea to push the pedal after doing one side for two reasons: One is as blazinlow69 said to just put the fluid back into the caliper. Second is to seat the pads onto the rotor to ensure the caliper and piston are working correctly. Just make sure that you only take one caliper off at a time :redface:
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
Mooseman said:
And it's also a good idea to push the pedal after doing one side for two reasons: One is as blazinlow69 said to just put the fluid back into the caliper. Second is to seat the pads onto the rotor to ensure the caliper and piston are working correctly. Just make sure that you only take one caliper off at a time :redface:

I think just about every mechanically inclined individual has done it, or at least witnessed someone do it. :lipsrsealed:. I was lucky it was leaking but still held pressure to get me to the parts store. When I overfilled the reservoir I had done the passenger side front and rear, and the driver side rear. I noticed a decent size puddle of fluid when I got the front driver side. :redface:

PS I like that username better :cool:
 

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