Yep, more HVAC issues

BuffettTruck

Original poster
Member
May 2, 2018
96
Florida
Okay, another HVAC issue here. I have searched and searched and while I seem to share some issues with others, they don't exactly seem the same.

When I got my 05 TB in March it had nice cold AC (Manual system). Starting around June as the temps in Florida started to rise and the afternoon storms started jacking up the humidity, the AC started losing its potency. Sometimes it blows cold, sometimes it blows air temp. I can adjust the temp sliders and the system seems to respond, so I don't think it is the blending doors unless they are being blocked. If I shut down the HVAC system completely and drive with the windows open, warm air will vent through. I think I figured this out looking at parts breakdowns of the hvac system (basically, I believe that when shut down, the recirculating door disables opening a passage from the cowl into the vehicle?).

Yesterday, on a whim, I turned on the HVAC and left the fan speed low and the air was colder than it was if I turned it up to 4 (5 doesn't work, so that controller probably needs replacing, I will have to rewatch May03LT's video on this).

At the suggestion of an HVAC guy working on my home system, I got a can of freon with the attached gauge and checked the pressure, it was well within the green "Okay" zone.

The compressor appears to be working, it puts a load on the engine and the front is spinning.

The driver's side is always warmer than the passenger side, but I read somewhere that this is just poor system design, still, sometimes it is a little warmer and sometims it is just plain warm and sometimes it will go from cool to air temp to cool without anything being touched while the passenger side stays constant. This is why I started looking for how the air flowed in the system.

Every time I read about someone else's issue, I check mine for the faulty component and it seems to be working. I plan to do my throttle body cleaning today or tomorrow and upgrading my ground wire to 4 gauge and Ibam hoping when the computer goes through its calibrating process it self-corrects my wierd issues. If it doesn't any suggestions on where to look? Or is it likely I am dealing with multiple issues and that is making it hard to find the problem?
 

m.mcmillen

Member
Apr 29, 2016
554
Wisconsin
With your blower on a lower speed, your air will be colder because you’re giving the evaporator more time to cool the air in the box.

As far as your pressures go, you need to get a set of gauges so you can read both the high and low side pressures. Many times I have seen a somewhat normal low side pressure but a really low high side pressure. When that is the case, you need to give it a charge.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,317
Ottawa, ON
Is your fan clutch working properly? With your A/C on, you should hear it start to pull more air. If it just continues to freewheel , then it's not working right. Search for my thread on how to test the electro-viscous fan clutch.
 

JerryIrons

Member
Dec 20, 2011
434
+1 on getting a set of gauges to measure pressures, it will tell you a lot. When my trailblazer does the works one day, not so good another day, it's usually low on r134a. And that might be from a leak.
 

mntegra01

Member
Mar 26, 2018
86
Virginia
I'm still having similar problems. I changed the front fan clutch and the cycling switch. My symptoms are; blows warm after maybe 25-30 minutes of driving. Sometimes after 35 minutes and I park, it still blows cold. But when I leave that place I drove to, the AC will not blow hot anymore. Not much of a system to figure out. Hate to say it, but I think my problem is a bad AC compressor. there is a built in temperature switch. But my drive to work is less than 10 minutes, soo.... Ill deal with it when I need to. It is hard to get it to act up and still have time to check the Tech 2 at work.
 

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