2008 trailblazer shut down while giving someone a jump. It will crank over and everything works. It just won't start
Won't start
- Thread starter kw1hf
- Start date
northcreek
Member
It did not work. I have already tried. Engine light is on so there is a code to read. just no code reader.
Welcome to GMT Nation...
Start with The Basics... Use a Bright Flashlight and THIS information for Checking for any Burnt Fuses:
fuse-box.info
Make certain to also pull up the Left Rear Passenger Seat and open the Second Fuse Box to check all of those as well. Using a Lighted Probe should speed up the process...
...but PULL any of the Fuses that may be suspect and Eye Ball them to make SURE.
Start with The Basics... Use a Bright Flashlight and THIS information for Checking for any Burnt Fuses:
Fuse Box Diagram Chevrolet TrailBlazer (2002-2009)
Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Chevrolet (Chevy) TrailBlazer (2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009).
fuse-box.info
Make certain to also pull up the Left Rear Passenger Seat and open the Second Fuse Box to check all of those as well. Using a Lighted Probe should speed up the process...
...but PULL any of the Fuses that may be suspect and Eye Ball them to make SURE.
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northcreek
Member
Thank You! I will check this out tomorrow since it is dark outside nowWelcome to GMT Nation...
Start with The Basics... Use a Bright Flashlight and THIS information for Checking for any Burnt Fuses:
Fuse Box Diagram Chevrolet TrailBlazer (2002-2009)
Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Chevrolet (Chevy) TrailBlazer (2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009).
Make certain to also pull up the Left Rear Passenger Seat and open the Second Fuse Box to check all of those as well. Using a Lighted Probe should speed up the process...
View attachment 102580
...but PULL any of the Fuses that may be suspect and Eye Ball them to make SURE.
Mooseman
Moderator
What terminal did you use to jump the other vehicle? If you used one of those at the megafuse, you probably blew it.
Blown megafuse after jumpstart or boost
Use only the battery terminals when boosting or getting boosted.
And if that's not it, then we have a thread with info for that:
Cranks but won't start
Blown megafuse after jumpstart or boost
Use only the battery terminals when boosting or getting boosted.
And if that's not it, then we have a thread with info for that:
Cranks but won't start
I can hear the fuel pump run and shut off when I turn the key on so more than likely it is not the problem, but spark would be
This is encouraging... it means that the PCM is still responding and probably was NOT Damaged by any Voltage Spikes. Fingers Crossed.
Mooseman
Moderator
Mooseman
Moderator
Check fuses and fuel pump relay. Should be easy enough to troubleshoot as a crank no start.
Cranks but won't start
Cranks but won't start
Take a Dead Blow Hammer and Lightly *Bang* underneath the Plastic Fuel Tank ... then Turn the Ignition Key ON and see if the Engine Starts.
If some of the Commutators in the Fuel Pump have a 'Dead Spot', sometimes, this sort of jostling can allow for it to operate once the Engine is running and the Fuel Pump gets going. If this Odd Technique works... Replacement of the Fuel Pump with ONLY a Bosch, Delphi or ACDelco OEM Quality Fuel Pump is in order.
The attached image shows what a Properly Functioning Fuel Pump "Good Known Wave Form" SHOULD look like when viewed on an Oscilloscope using a Current Loop plugged into the slot for the Fuel Pump Fuse and encircled with a Low Amp Clamp hooked into an inexpensive PICO-Scope Model #2204A Oscilloscope. When viewed either on a Windows 10 Tablet or a Laptop Computer using the FREE PICO-Scope Software as "Voltage Over Time"... it SHOULD Look Like THIS:
.
The symmetrical Peaks & Valleys displayed here are the repeated cycles of the Pump Commutator Brush - to - Copper Contact Oscillations from the Core of the Fuel Pump. If there are any Breaks in this Even, Jagged Line... THAT artifact it is proof that the Fuel Pump is Failing. Take note that normally, the RPM of the Pump is also displayed in the lower right hand corner of the PICO Software screen... but is out of view in this foreshortened image.
As mentioned by @Mooseman ... When checking Fuses Under the Hood AND Under the Rear Driver's Side Passenger Seat Fuse Box... THIS Tool is your Very Best Friend:
If some of the Commutators in the Fuel Pump have a 'Dead Spot', sometimes, this sort of jostling can allow for it to operate once the Engine is running and the Fuel Pump gets going. If this Odd Technique works... Replacement of the Fuel Pump with ONLY a Bosch, Delphi or ACDelco OEM Quality Fuel Pump is in order.
The attached image shows what a Properly Functioning Fuel Pump "Good Known Wave Form" SHOULD look like when viewed on an Oscilloscope using a Current Loop plugged into the slot for the Fuel Pump Fuse and encircled with a Low Amp Clamp hooked into an inexpensive PICO-Scope Model #2204A Oscilloscope. When viewed either on a Windows 10 Tablet or a Laptop Computer using the FREE PICO-Scope Software as "Voltage Over Time"... it SHOULD Look Like THIS:
.The symmetrical Peaks & Valleys displayed here are the repeated cycles of the Pump Commutator Brush - to - Copper Contact Oscillations from the Core of the Fuel Pump. If there are any Breaks in this Even, Jagged Line... THAT artifact it is proof that the Fuel Pump is Failing. Take note that normally, the RPM of the Pump is also displayed in the lower right hand corner of the PICO Software screen... but is out of view in this foreshortened image.
As mentioned by @Mooseman ... When checking Fuses Under the Hood AND Under the Rear Driver's Side Passenger Seat Fuse Box... THIS Tool is your Very Best Friend:
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