Wiring Question

[IAFF78]

I installed a powered 8" bazooka tube in my 04 TB LT. It ran great for a couple months then all of a sudden my battery started dying. I figured it was due to the cold weather. After this happened a few times i had the electrical system checked out. Battery tested good. Alt. was working. The battery was not able to crank the vehicle but had enough juice to power the lights...etc. Finally I figured it was the bazooka. I checked the tube and when the car was on the green power light was on and when the vehicle was off the power light was off. I took it out anyway and havent had issues since(knock on wood). Here's where i ran my wires:

Power- to rear fuse box
ground- rear seat bolt
remote- to rear fuse box
high level inputs- taped into factory speakers

I know the power and remote wires werent ran to the ideal location. Im going to do it the right way and run a power wire straight from the battery. My question is, besides tapping into the factory wire harness, where is the best place to find a good source for the remote wire.

I miss having some extra bass in the truck and I'm going to give this one more try. I just have a hard time believing that the bazooka tube was causing the battery to drain even after the power light turned off. If it does it again then Im going to tear it out and just be happy with the stock system. I liked the idea of actually having cargo space in my TB for once. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Blckshdw]

Did you break out your trusty meter and test your system for a parasitic drain that could be causing your issues?

 

[Boricua SS]

Did you break out your trusty meter and test your system for a parasitic drain that could be causing your issues?

it looks like you had your wiring correct.. the rear fuse block is ok for something as small as your aplication... anything above 2 10's, etc... i would run it to the battery... but one 8.. the rear is fine.. if worse comes to worse and you like the added bass.. you could always run an extra battery for your setup..

 

[IAFF78]

What would be a good place to get my remote turn on from? I have the Bose system if that makes it easier.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Blckshdw]

What would be a good place to get my remote turn on from? I have the Bose system if that makes it easier.

Thanks,
Kevin

If you already have it hooked up to an item in your rear fuse block that turns on and off with the key, or with a feature that would be on when you want your amp on, then you're good. Of course if you just hooked the remote wire up to that positive post (since you didn't say which fuse # you used), then that would explain your problem.

 

[walterc4553]

If you already have it hooked up to an item in your rear fuse block that turns on and off with the key, or with a feature that would be on when you want your amp on, then you're good. Of course if you just hooked the remote wire up to that positive post (since you didn't say which fuse # you used), then that would explain your problem.

In short. Where did you hook up the remote to? Have you checked for a leak using a volt meter?

Blckshdw is exactally correct. I used to have a bazooka tube back in the day, I had the same problem you did and found out the switched power i selected was the problem. The light would not be on but my battery was being cycled faster then it should and so I went through two batteries in a year. I had connected to the courtesy light power and not a true switched power.

I tapped off the rear speaker power for the 12v remote and I had no problems from then on out. I know this is not kosher in audiophile worlds and can cause feedback and other problems. But I had no issues as it was such a short run. By tapping into the speaker the sub was off when the radio was off and only on when the radio was on.

 

[IAFF78]

I got so frustrated with the whole thing, I just took everything out. I cant remember where i got my remote from. Anyone know of a good fuse in the rear fuse box to tap into? One that only turns on when the car is on. I dont want a constant hot.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Blckshdw]

From the trusty owner's manual.

 

[IAFF78]

Thanks for looking that up, I dont have a manual for my truck but am in the process of getting one.

Which fuses do you think would be good to tap into for a remote wire?


Thanks,
Kevin

 

[The_Roadie]

Where to find switched power - the DEFINITIVE post:

If you go to the ignition switch:
RED on the ignition switch is 12V, fused by underhood fuse #34, and feeds the following three circuits:

White is hot in ACCY, RUN, START
Orange is hot in RUN
Yellow is hot in START

RED/WHITE is another 12V, fused by underhood fuse #36, and feeds two circuits:

Brown is hot in ACCY, RUN
Pink is hot in RUN, START


If you go after the fuse block path, using an add-a-fuse gadget:

On in RUN/ACCY modes only:

rear fuse #29 - Rain sensor (rare option) 10A
rear #33 - front wiper motor - 25A
rear #31 - TBC ACC - 3A

ACCY, RUN, and START:

rear fuses 47 (IGN 0)
50 (TBC IG)

RUN only mode:

front fuses 22 (IGN E)
16 (TBC IGN 1)
27 (BACKUP)
28 (PCM 1)
54 (AIR SOL)
53 (O2 A
54 (O2 B)
26 (ENG 1)

 

[Blckshdw]

I might pay special attention to fuses #11 and #41 if you have them. Maybe put a meter to them and see what happens to them after you turn the key off, and open your door.

 

[The_Roadie]

Ahhhhh, RAP! Forgot that.