NEED HELP Wiring additional 12V Sockets

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Hello everyone.

Looking to wire up a few additional 12V Sockets/Outlets in the front and rear to a key switched 12V supply. Possibly one or both of a duel or triple Socket style. But as some of you may know I'm not good with electrical :hopeless:. Want to do this safely...so that's why I'm here to ask first.

Questions...
1. Can I tap into a existing 12V supply from say the Ignition Switch Orange (hot in Run only) or Brown (hot in Accy & Run) wires for front?...and maybe drivers side Vent Window Motor/Actuator in the rear?

2. Or should I use a Add-A-fuse or Fuse Tap on a switched circuit in one of the Fuse Boxes?

3. If the first option...would I need to purchase and install a In-line Fuse for each Socket to protect the equipment/devices?

I would Splice into the existing 12V/Cig Sockets but didn't want to have to plug/unplug the equipment/devices every time I enter/exit the vehicle! So...ya.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always.

Hope everyone is having a safe and great weekend!
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
What kinda goodies will you be running? (just cuz I'm curious and nosey) You could go the Add-a-fuse route, that way you're adding your in-line fuse protection.

Another option would be to tap into a hot wire, run it through a relay, and have the relay triggered by the ignition switch, or some other circuit that is only on with the key.

It really comes down to how much current you'll need to be pulling through your circuit(s) at any given time. If it's a little here and there, piggy backing on other circuits can work fine. Once you start demanding a little more from the setup, running through a relay becomes a better idea.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
What kinda goodies will you be running? (just cuz I'm curious and nosey) You could go the Add-a-fuse route, that way you're adding your in-line fuse protection.

Another option would be to tap into a hot wire, run it through a relay, and have the relay triggered by the ignition switch, or some other circuit that is only on with the key.

It really comes down to how much current you'll need to be pulling through your circuit(s) at any given time. If it's a little here and there, piggy backing on other circuits can work fine. Once you start demanding a little more from the setup, running through a relay becomes a better idea.

Sorry I should have included what I was wanting them to power in my original post.

On the added front Socket I need to power a Dash Cam and a Cell Phone charger for our Galaxy S8's...here is a pic of the plug for the Dash Cam which I believe is about 1Amp draw...
20170819_212753.jpg
And the next pic is of the cell charger which says 2.4Amp max...
20170819_212923.jpg
For the added rear Socket another of the same Dash Cam (1Amp or 600MA) above and a occasional same cell phone charger (2.4Amp) above for our daughters Galaxy S7 and that is all for both of the additional Sockets. So at most around 7Amps total.

We have a existing triple 12V power unit powering the kiddos four TV monitors but I just plug them in on demand in the outlet on the rear of the console. But they don't get used every time we drive it just on longer trips.

So you think I can go with the Add-a-Fuse route with this planned setup?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
:undecided: Well, if I was doing this mod, here's now I would approach it (although you do have some flexibility for options since it's not much of a power draw)

I'd take a fuse holder, and put in a 10A fuse, connect it to the positive wire under the rear seat feeding the fuse block.

auto_holder.gif


Feed the other end into a standard 4 or 5 pin relay. Tap into some ignition related signal in the rear fuse block to trigger it (radio or HVAC come to mind) and all that stays tucked in the fuse block area under the seat. Then connect the output of the relay to each of your connections.

If you have a wire snake, or an old metal hanger you can unfold, you can fish the wire from the rear fuse block, under the carpet, under the center console and then route it to its destinations. It's a little bit of work, but makes for a clean installation, and effectively gives you a separate circuit, so in case there is any troubleshooting required or you want to disable it, you've got an easy break point.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
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Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
:undecided: Well, if I was doing this mod, here's now I would approach it (although you do have some flexibility for options since it's not much of a power draw)

I'd take a fuse holder, and put in a 10A fuse, connect it to the positive wire under the rear seat feeding the fuse block.

auto_holder.gif


Feed the other end into a standard 4 or 5 pin relay. Tap into some ignition related signal in the rear fuse block to trigger it (radio or HVAC come to mind) and all that stays tucked in the fuse block area under the seat. Then connect the output of the relay to each of your connections.

If you have a wire snake, or an old metal hanger you can unfold, you can fish the wire from the rear fuse block, under the carpet, under the center console and then route it to its destinations. It's a little bit of work, but makes for a clean installation, and effectively gives you a separate circuit, so in case there is any troubleshooting required or you want to disable it, you've got an easy break point.

Ok so I'm not going to lie, after reading that I was like :eyebrowhuh:, lol.

I'm not shooting this idea down, it's just out of my rome. Nor saying you are wrong cause you know way more than I do about Electrical :hail: but I would have to look into wiring up a Relay to get familiar with it.

What are my other options?
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
That is likely your best option, tapping into the current wiring can overload it and cause a fire.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
That is likely your best option, tapping into the current wiring can overload it and cause a fire.

Ok, looking into it now. Just watching a few YouTube videos. Need to learn it if im going to be messing with Electrical.

Will update you guys in this thread when I get this figured out.

Thanks for the reply and the help @Blckshdw and @djthumper.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
This was discussed before in this thread:
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/grrrr-stupid-power-ports.16576/#post-524639

My post shows my solution. Works very well.

This was my original plan, that I thought about before ordering the first Dash Cam.

Ordered these (forgot to post under "What came in your Mail today") prior to ordering Dash Cam...
20170820_130026.jpg
Which I have never used either item in the past.

But I was unsure about which one to use cause I didn't know if you could have to many Fuses in a circuit and most devices/equipment have a built-in fuse on the Cig/Power Plug like this...
20170820_130320.jpg

But this was my original plan...
20170820_134000.jpg

But wanted to ask everyone for there opinion before putting it in effect.

Regardless how I end up going about it, I will obtain a standard 4 or 5 pin Relay to play with on my work bench using my Riding mower battery and a few components cause now I'm interested about it after @Blckshdw mentioned it.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Either of the two types of taps will work however the one on the left may damage the fusebox connector by widening it so if you put just a fuse later on, it will be loose. The one on the right is a better solution IMHO.
 
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RTTBLT1

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Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Either of the two types of taps will work however the one on the left may damage the fusebox connector by widening it so if you put just a fuse later on, it will be loose. The one on the right is a better solution IMHO.

Ok. I found some info on YouTube and the web as to how to use a Add-a-Fuse...
Screenshot_20170816-180834.png

If I end up going this route...how do go about finding the hot 12V side of the Fuse slot...just remove the Fuse, turn the key to Run mode and use my Multimeter on each side while looking for around 12V reading?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
If I end up going this route...how do go about finding the hot 12V side of the Fuse slot...just remove the Fuse, turn the key to Run mode and use my Multimeter on each side while looking for around 12V reading?

You got it. I used the TCCM fuse because it was the only switched fuse that I could find that was not obstructed from using the tap.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
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Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
You got it. I used the TCCM fuse because it was the only switched fuse that I could find that was not obstructed from using the tap.

Ok, great. If I end up going this route I may use the same Fuse as I have not flipped up the seat and taken a look at my clearance yet. Was going to use the Vent Window Fuse but after looking at the PDF (Fuses) pic again, it is located on the edge of the box so that maybe a no go. And when you say TCCM...that is the 4WD Fuse? TCCM stands for Transfer Case Control Module, correct?

If you have a wire snake, or an old metal hanger you can unfold, you can fish the wire from the rear fuse block, under the carpet, under the center console and then route it to its destinations. It's a little bit of work, but makes for a clean installation, and effectively gives you a separate circuit, so in case there is any troubleshooting required or you want to disable it, you've got an easy break point.

Forgot to answer the question about the wire snake. My apologies. I do have Fish Tape though!...
20170820_192636.jpg
65ft of it to be exact!

Also, does anyone have recommendations on a brand for a 4 or 5 pin relay?...and should I look for a Fused Relay or just add a Fuse Holder as mentioned by @Blckshdw?

Rockauto has Dorman brand only and hear some bad things about there Electrical items. Amazon has generic brand that I know nothing about but have heard of some cheap ones causing Electrical fires.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
And when you say TCCM...that is the 4WD Fuse? TCCM stands for Transfer Case Control Module, correct?

That is correct.
Also, does anyone have recommendations on a brand for a 4 or 5 pin relay?

If you use the fuse tap, it has a fuse and negates the use of a relay. The relay would have been useful to switch the existing plugs. What I actually did was use the tap and put the wire with a spade into the fuse socket for the existing plugs. Worked great. But if you want to use a relay, just about any brand should work given the low amps. They are usually rated to 30A and the plugs are fused for 20A.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok, for now I think will go with the Add-a-Fuse route till I learn how to properly wire up a Relay. After learning the ends & outs of wiring a Relay I can convert my setup at a later time if need be.

Couple more questions...

1. What wire size should i go with to the Add-a-Fuse power lead with running two Dash Cams @ 600MA each and two cell phone chargers @ 2.4Amp each on the circuit...14 gauge? Or 16 gauge?

2. Would a 10amp Fuse in the top of the Add-a-Fuse be sufficient?

3. Based on my hand drawn diagram (see above post) other than maybe tapping another Fuse because of clearance..... could/would you recommend that setup?

4. Also based on my diagram... is it safe to tee off (1 to 2 wires) the power supply from the power lead of the Add-a-fuse?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
1. Either but I'd go 14 gauge as overkill in case I'd like to plug in something like a cooler later on.

2. 16g: 10A 14g: 20A

3. That will work.

4. No problem there.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
1. Either but I'd go 14 gauge as overkill in case I'd like to plug in something like a cooler later on.

2. 16g: 10A 14g: 20A

3. That will work.

4. No problem there.

Ok, sweet. Thanks

:undecided: Thinking about cutting the phone chargers from the equation just for now till I learn to wire up a Relay plus we will still have the factory Plugs to use if need be. The Cooler deal would be nice cause we go camping here & there but since we don't own a powered one as of now, that can also come later.

So thinking just for now so I can get the Dash Cams up & going without having to plug/unplug each time, just going with the Add-a-Fuse with a 5Amp (since the circuit will only have appox 2Amps on it) Fuse on top, two single style added 12V Sockets and 16 gauge wire.

But bound determined to get familiar with how Relays work & how to successfully use one, once I have time to sit down and mess with one and a few components.

I will update this thread at a later time though.

Sorry for all the questions. But I have always liked to ask others that know more about something than I before diving in.

Thanks to @Blckshdw, @djthumper and @Mooseman for all your help.

Hope everybody has a great week!
 
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Never apologize for trying to learn stuff. We all had to start somewhere right? I was in your same shoes when I joined the OS back in 09. Seems like forever ago now...
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
Never apologized for trying to learn stuff. We all had to start somewhere right? I was in your same shoes when I joined the OS back in 09. Seems like forever ago now...
heh, I remember some of your beginnings. :wink:
 
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jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
But bound determined to get familiar with how Relays work & how to successfully use one, once I have time to sit down and mess with one and a few components.
They seem complex when you start working with them, but they're pretty simple. The numbering on the pins are confusing. I always kind of wish they all came with simple diagrams on the side of them.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Going to place a order this week for the items I need to get this done. Before I do I wanted to verify a few more things so I can get everything in one order.


Since my plans have changed...a few more questions...:stars:

1. Now only needing a Add-a-Circuit for two Dash Cams @ 2A or 600MA x2 total...is 16g wire with a 5amp fuse ok?...or should I do a 10amp fuse?...or 14g with a 5 or 10amp fuse? :bonk:

2. Should ground wires match the wire guage of the Power (hot) Wire?...or does it matter?

3. If I use a existing (factory) ground location...is there any ground locations I should avoid?

4. Do I need to worry about the length of the grounds from each 12V Socket?...or just keep them short as possible?

5. Any recommendations on a brand for primary wire?...or will any brand work?

Last of the questions guys, I promise.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
1. 16ga with 10A would be fine
2. Yes
3. No, a ground is a ground. Just be sure all connections are clean
4. At that gauge and amps, I wouldn't worry but still keep it as short as possible
5. Wire is wire so any brand will work.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
1. 16ga with 10A would be fine
2. Yes
3. No, a ground is a ground. Just be sure all connections are clean
4. At that gauge and amps, I wouldn't worry but still keep it as short as possible
5. Wire is wire so any brand will work.

Ok, good deal.

If I would have went with my original plan with 2 dash cams & 2 phone chargers and your suggestion about "14g=20Amp" i would have had to purchase a different Add-a-Fuse cuz I didn't catch this when I purchased them...
20170828_141459.png
According to the manufacturer, I couldn't use anything higher than 10Amps in either slot with the ones I have on hand.

Actually I lied, one more question since you have me curious and for future reference...

You said 10Amp for this setup but I was thinking a 5Amp would still leave about 3Amps to play with...is the extra Amps in case of a surge/spike in the circuit?...or because of the length of wire I will be running?

Not questioning your knowledge, just trying to understand as much about Electrical as I can :smile:, cuz I can sure use it, lol.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Just placed my order for four (x2 for each vehicle) single 12V Sockets, an assortment of mini fuses and x2 20 feet of 16 gauge Dorman red (power/hot side) primary wire & x2 20 feet of 16 gauge Dorman black (ground side) primary wire.

Big thanks again to everyone for the help!

Have a great day everyone!
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Hi everyone

I was preparing for this install today and i already know my plan for the power (hot) wire but wanted to locate the grounds I would be using. So I opened the TB wiring diagrams that I downloaded thanks to @Mooseman and if I'm reading them correctly, here is what I came up with...

Since the power plug for the Dash Cams are so long...For the rear 12V Socket I plan to use G306- Behind left rear door...
Screenshot_20170902-205226.png
Screenshot_20170902-205058.png
And for the front 12V Socket I plan to use G201- Right front of lower console...
Screenshot_20170902-203650.png
Screenshot_20170902-205330.png

But...after looking at the wiring diagrams, it seems G201 has alot of components grounded at that location.

So my question is...would grounding one added 12V Socket to that location (G201) cause any electrical issues?

I just don't want to overload anything.
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
If you ground at the bolt, no.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
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Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
So what you are saying is as long as I don't tap directly into one of the ground wires i will be fine...ok...

No sir, I plan to use these connectors to ground both wires...
20170902_212842.jpg

Thank you again.

Hope you and everyone have a safe and wonderful Labor Day weekend!
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Those will be fine.

Awesome!

I plan to just loosen each ground bolt a thread or two and slip in the newly added grounds with the connectors attached and tighten the bolts back up.

To be safe, I will probably disconnect the battery while I do the complete install but wouldn't think it be a issue if I didn't.

Thanks again.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
If you're only using the add-a-fuses to draw power, then disconnecting the battery isn't necessary. If you were dealing with a line that was always hot then you'd want to disconnect the battery to prevent a short from any tools touching the wire and the body, or if you dropped the wire and it touched something metal. Scenarios like that.

In your case, I'd say route your wiring to were it needs to go, hook up the ground, then do the fuse connections last and call it good.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
If you're only using the add-a-fuses to draw power, then disconnecting the battery isn't necessary. If you were dealing with a line that was always hot then you'd want to disconnect the battery to prevent a short from any tools touching the wire and the body, or if you dropped the wire and it touched something metal. Scenarios like that.

Ok, sounds like a plan!

In your case, I'd say route your wiring to were it needs to go, hook up the ground, then do the fuse connections last and call it good.

I was thinking of going this route. And now that I will be using the Rain Fuse (No.29-Rear Fuse Box) instead of the 4WD Fuse (No.48-Rear Fuse Box) I was going to make sure the Rap option was completely de-energized before starting or making the power (hot) connection(s). I had to change my targeted Fuse Box slot since the Add-a-Fuse I have on hand only accepts up to a 10amp Fuse in either slot and the 4WD Fuse is 15amp, but not a big deal.

It will probably be next weekend now before I get them wired up direct.

Thank you again everyone!
 
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RTTBLT1

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Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
While getting the remainder of the components together for this job, pulled out my goodie bag...
20170905_063747.jpg
And forgot I had these Multi-Way Connectors...
20170905_064102.jpg
Since I'm comfortable at this time Soldering down by the other wires under the scuff panel... thought about using them on the tee (branch) off of the power (hot) wire from the rear fuse box or the more common connector(s) on the right of them.

If I were to use the Multi-Way type I know I would have to tape up the metal portion so it doesn't ground out as the connector would be located just to the left of the fuse box under the driver rear door scuff panel.

:undecided: But are these Multi-Way Connectors geared more for speaker wire connections....

Thoughts?...And or comments?
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
While getting the remainder of the components together for this job, pulled out my goodie bag...
View attachment 81875
And forgot I had these Multi-Way Connectors...
View attachment 81876
Since I'm comfortable at this time Soldering down by the other wires under the scuff panel... thought about using them on the tee (branch) off of the power (hot) wire from the rear fuse box or the more common connector(s) on the right of them.

If I were to use the Multi-Way type I know I would have to tape up the metal portion so it doesn't ground out as the connector would be located just to the left of the fuse box under the driver rear door scuff panel.

:undecided: But are these Multi-Way Connectors geared more for speaker wire connections....

Thoughts?...And or comments?

:bump:


You said 10Amp for this setup but I was thinking a 5Amp would still leave about 3Amps to play with...is the extra Amps in case of a surge/spike in the circuit?...or because of the length of wire I will be running.

Also, could someone help me get more of a understanding of this?
 

Njg425

Member
Sep 6, 2016
33
Souther California
If you're comfortable with soldering you should almost always solder and shrink-wrap everything. I think maybe you meant you are NOT comfortable soldering? Those multi-way connectors are for connecting to a post like one of your ground locations. You can twist multiple wires together and use a regular crimp connection. I would really suggest you learn how to solder especially since water likes to find it's way into our doors. But crimp connectors usually work fine, I would just worry about the longevity.
It doesn't really matter at what amps you want your fuse to blow. Generally you want double whatever peak current is but if you get a dead short it will blow any mini fuse (which is what you really want to protect against anyway).
 
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RTTBLT1

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Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
If you're comfortable with soldering you should almost always solder and shrink-wrap everything. I think maybe you meant you are NOT comfortable soldering? Those multi-way connectors are for connecting to a post like one of your ground locations. You can twist multiple wires together and use a regular crimp connection. I would really suggest you learn how to solder especially since water likes to find it's way into our doors. But crimp connectors usually work fine, I would just worry about the longevity.
It doesn't really matter at what amps you want your fuse to blow. Generally you want double whatever peak current is but if you get a dead short it will blow any mini fuse (which is what you really want to protect against anyway).

My apologies, that was meant to say I am not comfortable with Soldering at the moment.

I'm currently working on my Soldering skills so hopefully by my next project I will have it down and be comfortable enough to do it over crimp on connectors.

So the Multi-Way Connectors are now out of the equation! Wasn't sure so wanted to ask first.

And that answers my question regarding the fuse, just wanted to get a understanding of why the bigger 10amp was needed over a 5amp. According to internet searches, the fuse should be the weakest link in the circuit and wasn't understanding since there is more to the equation when it comes to Electrical. Just trying to learn as much as possible on Electrical.

Thank you for the help.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Decided to go ahead and get the install done yesterday evening.

Wanted to make a short video for you guys...

Watch "Dash Cam Hardwire Install" on YouTube

Forgot to include the main components used to do the install in the video, so here is a picture of those items...
(Well I would but getting:.... The Following Error Has Occurred: You can not upload attachments. You do not have enough posts yet.) Also, Having some others issues with the site on the Mobile version.

Not sure what that's about.

Thinking about doing a write up on this mod/project but not sure as some my not like/want to do the same as I.....???

I would like to thank everyone for there time, patients and help with this project/mod. You guys like always are great! :hail::2thumbsup:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
For the upload issue, could be related to login issues lately. Try logging out and back in. I had issues logging in completely. Last night, I had one tab logged in and the other that wouldn't. Very weird stuff going on.
 
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RTTBLT1

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Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Attempted to post this the other day but was having issues...

Here is the main components used for the install that I forgot to include in the above video...
20170909_170637.jpg
(The Plugs shown above was not used, just the Sockets)

Thanks and have a great evening!
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Hello everyone

Now I'm looking to add a dual style 12V Socket supply for powering the kiddos TV monitors in the TB. Was planning on tapping into the power (hot) wire from the rear console factory Cig/12V socket and installing a rocker switch between the power (hot) wire and the Accessory.
20170928_122130.jpg
But wasn't sure where to install the Inline Fuse.
20170929_163333.jpg

So my questions are:

1. Would I install the Inline Fuse between the factory power (hot) wire and the Rocker switch?...or between the Rocker switch and the Accessory?

2. For grounding the Rocker switch...can I add the Rocker switch ground wire to the rear console factory Cig/12V ground wiring?...or should I make a new ground location for the added Rocker switch?


Any help would be greatly appreciated as always!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The fuse is always the first thing in a circuit so it would go at the hot connection before the switch. For the ground, that would be fine as it's just for powering the light inside the switch, very low amps.
 
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