Window and door lock power ??????

Tux05

Original poster
Member
Jun 6, 2016
38
Northern ontario
I have an 05 envoy I6 I do not have power to my driver door switches no locks no mirror no window power. I saw an A1 Auto vid on you tube saying it was the " Main accessory power fuse.But in the vid the radio and AC did not work the ac and radio work on mine is this the usual problem? Has anyone else had this problem and if so can you recommend a fix thanks Tux
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
I think it might just be the ddm(driver door module) try swapping the pdm(passenger door module) to confirm. The wiring swap right in from door to door. I had the same issue last year and the ddm was my issue.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
:goodpost: What he said...

If that doesn't work, you could try checking the wiring hardness that's near the door hinge, see if the connector has any problems, or if the insulation is damaged (meaning the wires inside could be damaged) If nothing appears wrong visually, use a meter, and check to make sure power is even getting that far. If not, then the problem could be something inside the truck.

How long have you had this issue? Did you get any rain on the door panel? That's usually the cause when this happens to me :mad:
 
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Tux05

Original poster
Member
Jun 6, 2016
38
Northern ontario
:goodpost: What he said...

If that doesn't work, you could try checking the wiring hardness that's near the door hinge, see if the connector has any problems, or if the insulation is damaged (meaning the wires inside could be damaged) If nothing appears wrong visually, use a meter, and check to make sure power is even getting that far. If not, then the problem could be something inside the truck.

How long have you had this issue? Did you get any rain on the door panel? That's usually the cause when this happens to me :mad:
T

I will try the wires in the door post I did switch the modueles from right to left but still no go. It was working yesterday afternoon when I came home this morning nothing. Have any of you had to replace the Main Accessory Power Fuse? Thanks also we did have heavy rain yesterday. If it is rain does it dry up and fix its self that would be to easy.
 

Tux05

Original poster
Member
Jun 6, 2016
38
Northern ontario
Also I checked for power and was able to get power on the orange wire on the small 4 wire plug at the front this under the switch that cuts power to the windows. Thanks again
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
By main accessory fuse, I believe that video is talking about the Megafuse under the hood at the front of the fuse block. If that was blown, you'd have far more problems than just your door. What you have is much more specific.

Check fuse #10 in the rear block under the seat, that's for the DDM. See if that one's blown.
 

Tux05

Original poster
Member
Jun 6, 2016
38
Northern ontario
Think you for the reply I had checked #10 and tried a fresh 10amp but no luck. I am thinking it may be the switch pack (all the switches) but will have to pay to see if that is it.I am not sure how to test it I do have power going to the orange wire but now sure of any where else.
 

Tux05

Original poster
Member
Jun 6, 2016
38
Northern ontario
I did not check for ground I grounded to a bolt on the door hinge I was thinking this should give me a good ground what is the best way to check ground?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Red lead on the orange wire in the plug like before, put your black lead on the thicker black wire coming out of that same plug. If you get a voltage reading on your meter, then that plug is seeing ground. If you get no reading, then the circuit is open, and that wire isn't grounded properly.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
the best way would be to use a resistance measurement on your meter and the same ground point for one lead and the other on the ground wire going to the unit. The readings should be near zero... any thing else suggests a bad grounding thru that wire point.
 

Tux05

Original poster
Member
Jun 6, 2016
38
Northern ontario
Thanks to everyone for the great replies and info. It was all very helpful in solving the problem. I switched the right door Switch pack over to the left door. I now have a power window and lock. Looks like the switch pack is the one that failed. After I get another one I will post the results thanks again May not be till next week as I am not driving into the city to get one today
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Be sure you get a USED one because any new one will need to be programmed at the dealer or someone with a Tech 2.
 
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Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
Red lead on the orange wire in the plug like before, put your black lead on the thicker black wire coming out of that same plug. If you get a voltage reading on your meter, then that plug is seeing the ground. If you get no reading, then the circuit is open, and that wire isn't grounded properly.
Perhaps I am not doing the above correct i,e. Red lead on the orange wire in the plug like before, put your black lead on the thicker black wire coming out of that same plug. I'll try it again so far no voltage reading on meter or test light? (QUOTE="Blckshdw, post: 566814, member: 6045")

2002 TB LT...Please help me fix the passenger power window problem. It looks as though the pass power window is not getting ground? If the problem is the ground wire how do I get ground to the 2 wire pass power window connector? If no ground or open circuit how do I ground the circuit properly?
Enclosed below are the troubleshooting steps applied so far in attempts to fix the lack of power to the pass power window.

I connected the passenger power window module or switch to the working driver's side master module. I did the same "SWAP" with the passenger motor and relay to the driver's side master power door module. I troubleshot (SWAPPED) the switch, motor, and relay from the passenger side onto the driver's side, confirmed no problem with the passenger side door module?
As for the Circuit Breakers, relay switches, and fuses, I used the schematic under the rear seat to troubleshoot each one, they all worked.
Onto the wire harness, the top two pins vary in showing current. Sometimes they show with a Test Light and sometimes with a multimeter they show over 12 volts. The rest barely show some current. I believe either the left or right pin on the wire harness registered 12.
The opposite top pin registered less on the multimeter while the other connector slots or openings registered nothing? I set the multimeter on DC 20 was this a correct setting to check pins?
The wires to the wire harness are not frayed or corroded.
Nevertheless, the power window still does not work? Could the tan and light blue wires going from the power window connector into the wire harness located between the door and fender be the lack of power to the passenger power window (ppw) or is the problem no ground on the passenger power window connector? After all the passenger door module, motor, and relay work when "SWAPPED" with the drivers side module so could the problem be the (Pins) in the power harness? Is there a way to set up a "jumper ground wire" to get ground on to the passenger door power window? Granting this is the problem?
I have a spare wire harness ( left one pictured is the present one the right one is the spare harness) and noticed more pins compared to the present one? Could this be the power problem to the passenger side power window?
If so I'm thinking of cutting a length of wires from the present wire harness connector and splicing it with the spare one? There are nine (9) wires in both connectors and 2 (light tan and light blue) in the power window connector. The light tan and blue appear to be the power wires going to the pins in the wire harness. Could this fix the ppw problem?
 

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Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
:goodpost: What he said...

If that doesn't work, you could try checking the wiring hardness that's near the door hinge, see if the connector has any problems, or if the insulation is damaged (meaning the wires inside could be damaged) If nothing appears wrong visually, use a meter, and check to make sure power is even getting that far. If not, then the problem could be something inside the truck.

How long have you had this issue? Did you get any rain on the door panel? That's usually the cause when this happens to me :mad:
 

Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
Be sure you get a USED one because any new one will need to be programmed at the dealer or someone with a Tech 2.
Hi Mooseman:
Attached please find a copy sent to BlackShadow: Since I have a spare harness ( 2002 TB) I am hoping you can find a solution? Any input from you and BlackShadow will be greatly appreciated!

2002 TB LT...Please help me fix the passenger power window problem. It looks as though the pass power window is not getting ground? If the problem is the ground wire how do I get ground to the 2 wire pass power window connector? If no ground or open circuit how do I ground the circuit properly?
Enclosed below are the troubleshooting steps applied so far in attempts to fix the lack of power to the pass power window.

I connected the passenger power window module or switch to the working driver's side master module. I did the same "SWAP" with the passenger motor and relay to the driver's side master power door module. I troubleshot (SWAPPED) the switch, motor, and relay from the passenger side onto the driver's side, confirmed no problem with the passenger side door module?
As for the Circuit Breakers, relay switches, and fuses, I used the schematic under the rear seat to troubleshoot each one, they all worked.
Onto the wire harness, the top two pins vary in showing current. Sometimes they show with a Test Light and sometimes with a multimeter they show over 12 volts. The rest barely show some current. I believe either the left or right pin on the wire harness registered 12.
The opposite top pin registered less on the multimeter while the other connector slots or openings registered nothing? I set the multimeter on DC 20 was this a correct setting to check pins?
The wires to the wire harness are not frayed or corroded.
Nevertheless, the power window still does not work? Could the tan and light blue wires going from the power window connector into the wire harness located between the door and fender be the lack of power to the passenger power window (ppw) or is the problem no ground on the passenger power window connector? After all the passenger door module, motor, and relay work when "SWAPPED" with the drivers side module so could the problem be the (Pins) in the power harness? Is there a way to set up a "jumper ground wire" to get ground on to the passenger door power window? Granting this is the problem?
I have a spare wire harness ( left one pictured is the present one the right one is the spare harness) and noticed more pins compared to the present one? Could this be the power problem to the passenger side power window?
If so I'm thinking of cutting a length of wires from the present wire harness connector and splicing it with the spare one? There are nine (9) wires in both connectors and 2 (light tan and light blue) in the power window connector. The light tan and blue appear to be the power wires going to the pins in the wire harness. Could this fix the ppw problem?
 

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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Welcome to GMT Nation...

Download, Save ...and Plunder the GM OEM Service Manual for your Particular SUV and isolate the Door Lock-Window Control Wiring Diagram(s) so you have a working Baseline to observe and Probe the Power and Ground Leads...HERE:



GMT Nation "GURU" @MAY03LT Covers problems with Door Locks on his 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer:


Also... even though these Two Videos cover a Different GM Vehicle... The VOP (Video Original Poster) covers the R&R, Tear Down and Troubleshooting and DMM Probing of the Door Switch Control Module that may give you some additional insights for your situation:


 
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Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
Be sure you get a USED one because any new one will need to be programmed at the dealer or someone with a Tech 2.
Thanks very much for your response. Would it make any sense replacing the present harness
(please see enclosed photos) and splicing the wires of the spare harness to the passenger door wire harness?
I've checked for ground as per your post and no reading? I've checked it with a multimeter and voltage light? Maybe I'm not doing it, right?
 

Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
HI Mooseman!
Thanks greatly for the access to TB repair manuals. Enclosed please find Schematic for 2004 TB.
Would the 2004 Schematic work for 2002 (myTB)?
Is there a reading power windows schematic for Dummies? Or could you please get me started so I can probe if the window problem is ground or short or both?
Welcome to GMT Nation...

Download, Save ...and Plunder the GM OEM Service Manual for your Particular SUV and isolate the Door Lock-Window Control Wiring Diagram(s) so you have a working Baseline to observe and Probe the Power and Ground Leads...HERE:



GMT Nation "GURU" @MAY03LT Covers problems with Door Locks on his 2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer:


Also... even though these Two Videos cover a Different GM Vehicle... The VOP (Video Original Poster) covers the R&R, Tear Down and Troubleshooting and DMM Probing of the Door Switch Control Module that may give you some additional insights for your situation:


Hey Moosman:

Thanks greatly for your time in sending the above, Thanks to you I downloaded the service manual schematics 2002-2004 TB. Eventhough the schematic indicates 2004 I'm sure the diagrams apply to my 2002 TB?
I will try again to send you a photo of the schematic page. For some reason, it's not downloading to photos?
Unfortunately, I'm still in square one, it's very difficult to understand the wiring for the front right passenger door. As you know I did the swap from PSDM to DDM window( motor and relay), checked the circuit breakers, relays, fuses each worked fine. Checked for a short in the fuses with a voltage light grounded to the battery. Power lock works, Power lock, and mirror works from driver door module, driver side to passenger side and ps module lock works from the passenger side.
Yet, no power to the window. The PSW does not go up or down. When the power window button is pressed from the driver side module you can hear an audible subtle click sound coming from the passenger side module. The power door lock works on the passenger door module.
I do not know how to operate a GM Tech 2 to locate the problem.
A wild guess leads me to the problem being lack of ground or a short or both?
Obviously, if everything else works then it must be a ground/short problem?
I was thinking of splicing the spare door harness (sent pictures of both) to the present one? Would that work?
Or is there a way I can set up a provisional fix, for example, a jumper wire to feed ground to the passenger door window connector? Maybe, that will power up the window?
Years back I had a similar problem with another vehicle. I observed the tech guy wire up to a hot wire and bingo problem solved in under 15 minutes?
Nevertheless, I'll continue to struggle in reading the wiring diagram. If you know of a how-to read auto schematics for Dummies resource please let me now, I'd appreciate it!
Best regards,
Rockridge007
 

Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
Enclosed please find schematic for 2002 TB
PPW.
How can I trace the ground to pass power window connector and wire harness?

Thank you.
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
That's the schematics for the power door locks. Yes, 2002<>2004 will be the same.

You have to remember that the ground to the power window motor is a reversible ground. The module will reverse the + and - as required to move it up and down. Just to confirm, you verified voltage at the motor on both wires connected to a test light or meter? There are only two wires going to the motor. Using a meter, you should see +12V in one direction and -12V in the other direction. If you are getting voltage at the motor but the motor doesn't move, then the motor is dead.

To verify the ground wire, use a meter with one probe on a good body ground and the other at the black wire on the module.
 

Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
Hey,
Thanks for the prompy reply
I appreciate you taking the time.
The motor works fine. I did a swap.
Tested both motor and switch to drivers side.
I tested both wires of the motor with a multi tester no 12 volts + or - register?
What's confusing is the motor and pass module work fine when swapped?
Only a subtle click sound can be heard from the pass module when pressing the window button from the drivers module.
Would changing the harness fix the problem? Is there a way to fix the ground with a jumper wire for ground from the pass window to the battery?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I tested both wires of the motor with a multi tester no 12 volts + or - register?

It should register when you push the window up or down switch.

So the driver window works if you swap in PDM to the driver side but putting the DDM in passenger side still doesn't work? I would suspect the wiring. Check the wires that pass between the door and pillar. Pull and tug to see if it has broken inside the insulation. We see this a lot on the liftgate so broken wires are possible. I'd try that before trying to add your own wire but you could do it temporarily as a test. Don't need to go all the way to the battery. You could use the seat bolt or any other ground point under the dash.

How did you test that the pass window motor works?
 

Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
It should register when you push the window up or down switch.

So the driver window works if you swap in PDM to the driver side but putting the DDM in passenger side still doesn't work? I would suspect the wiring. Check the wires that pass between the door and pillar. Pull and tug to see if it has broken inside the insulation. We see this a lot on the liftgate so broken wires are possible. I'd try that before trying to add your own wire but you could do it temporarily as a test. Don't need to go all the way to the battery. You could use the seat bolt or any other ground point under the dash.

How did you test that the pass window motor works?
Hey "Mooseman":
Yes, I did the "Swap" test on the pass window motor; testing the Pass Window Motor
on the Drivers, the master Window Module worked perfectly !
Meanwhile going over page by page the Service Manual in particular Pages 85 to 88 ( power Window Inoperative Passenger Door, Front Door). Pg 188- (Wiring Harness Replacement-Front door) and Pg 260...Front Pass Power Window Operation:
One major drawback each operation requires the Tech 2 Scanner to troubleshoot and fix
the problem.
Oh, sorry one more thing "adding my own wire would be a "temporary fix? Meaning running a
ground wire to jump the window motor from the battery" is only a temp or band-aid fix and not
permanent or long term solution, of course, if that works?
Thanks again for getting right back to me!!!!
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Not to the motor, to the module. You did test that ground right? If you do that to the motor, you will certainly short stuff out. The motor gets its ground from the module.

So you swapped the motors side to side and pass side still doesn't work. Have you tried swapping the door switch modules from one side to the other? (I can't tell if it has been done). That will determine if it's the module. If that's been tried with the driver side module in pass side door and still pass side doesn't work, you should check each wire in the harness from the module to the inside of the truck in the door jamb for continuity. This is where the schematic will be useful. Factory manual would say to replace the whole harness because it's faster and cheaper for THEM to do. If it's just one broken wire, you could repair that yourself. Or if you have a nearby u-pull yard, you could get a harness that way (along with a door module just in case).
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Is this Door Check Strap Mechanism possibly involved in the same Grounding Circuit? If so... it is a Replaceable Unit as per this Video. It also looks like this procedure gives greater access to the Door Switching Harness... and the Plastic Cover deep inside of the Door Jamb if that Harness turns out to be completely Modular... and removeable-replaceable as a single unit:

 
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Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
Not to the motor, to the module. You did test that ground right? If you do that to the motor, you will certainly short stuff out. The motor gets its ground from the module.

So you swapped the motors side to side and pass side still doesn't work. Have you tried swapping the door switch modules from one side to the other? (I can't tell if it has been done). That will determine if it's the module. If that's been tried with the driver side module in pass side door and still pass side doesn't work, you should check each wire in the harness from the module to the inside of the truck in the door jamb for continuity. This is where the schematic will be useful. Factory manual would say to replace the whole harness because it's faster and cheaper for THEM to do. If it's just one broken wire, you could repair that yourself. Or if you have a nearby u-pull yard, you could get a harness that way (along with a door module just in case).
To test ground on pass side module turn the ignition on not the engine and press the pass side
buttons (up/dwn) when probing the multimeter into the pass door switch ground connector, should read 12+/12- correct?
Did not swap drivers side motor to passenger side. I swapped the passenger side motor to the driver's side motor connector, drivers window worked fine.
I did not swap the driver side motor to the passenger side door.
Yes, I did swap the door switches side to side. Passenger door switch worked fine on drivers door, locks on both sides also worked using passenger door switch on drivers side.
The driver's door side switch module was tried on pass side door, negative, motor/window and lock did not work.
I will double-check door harness wires. Is the schematic photo from the manual I sent you the right one to check wires on the door harness?
As per photos sent.....can I replace the present wire harness with the spare harness?
I have a spare wire harness to replace the present/old one. Please correct me by replacing the old wire harness with the spare one do I cut ( I believe there are 9 wires) the old harness wires and splice them color to color to the spare wire harness? Can I electrical tape/splice the spare wire harness versus sodering the old wires to the spare one?
I think I do not need to replace the present door switch module since I have swap tested it with the driver's door switch module.
As a matter of fact, I have a spare switch module that has been swap tested on the driver door switch module, which works fine! They both worked fine on the driver's door switch module.
As stated in my prior message you can hear a subtle, audible click coming from the passenger
switch module whenever the window or door buttons are pressed from the driver's door switch
module.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
OK, let's sum it up (please confirm):
- Window Motor in pass door is good (tested using driver side motor connection with extended wires)
- Module in pass door is good (tested working in driver side door)
- You hear a click in the pass door module when you try to lower the window but nothing happens

To me, from here, it sounds like either power or ground not getting to the module itself.

Is the schematic photo from the manual I sent you the right one to check wires on the door harness?

That's part of it. You also need schematics for the power windows.

As per photos sent.....can I replace the present wire harness with the spare harness?

Yes you could do that is you have one. Is that from the door jamb to the module? if so, that should dispel any issues with it. However, if the problem is from that connector in the jamb to the rest of the truck's harness, it won't fix it.

You would need to check the following:
1. for ground at the black wire(s) at the door module
2. for 12v+ at the module according to the schematics
 

Rockridge007

Member
Dec 12, 2019
10
Chicago,Il
To test ground on pass side module turn the ignition on not the engine and press the pass side
buttons (up/dwn) when probing the multimeter into the pass door switch ground connector, should read 12+/12- correct?
Did not swap drivers side motor to passenger side. I swapped the passenger side motor to the driver's side motor connector, drivers window worked fine.
I did not swap the driver side motor to the passenger side door.
Yes, I did swap the door switches side to side. Passenger door switch worked fine on drivers door, locks on both sides also worked using passenger door switch on drivers side.
The driver's door side switch module was tried on pass side door, negative, motor/window and lock did not work.
I will double-check door harness wires. Is the schematic photo from the manual I sent you the right one to check wires on the door harness?
As per photos sent.....can I replace the present wire harness with the spare harness?
I have a spare wire harness to replace the present/old one. Please correct me by replacing the old wire harness with the spare one do I cut ( I believe there are 9 wires) the old harness wires and splice them color to color to the spare wire harness? Can I electrical tape/splice the spare wire harness versus sodering the old wires to the spare one?
I think I do not need to replace the present door switch module since I have swap tested it with the driver's door switch module.
As a matter of fact, I have a spare switch module that has been swap tested on the driver door switch module, which works fine! They both worked fine on the driver's door switch module.
As stated in my prior message you can hear a subtle, audible click coming from the passenger
switch module whenever the window or door buttons are pressed from the driver's door switch
module.
OK, let's sum it up (please confirm):
- Window Motor in pass door is good (tested using driver side motor connection with extended wires)
- Module in pass door is good (tested working in driver side door)
- You hear a click in the pass door module when you try to lower the window but nothing happens

To me, from here, it sounds like either power or ground not getting to the module itself.



That's part of it. You also need schematics for the power windows.



Yes you could do that is you have one. Is that from the door jamb to the module? if so, that should dispel any issues with it. However, if the problem is from that connector in the jamb to the rest of the truck's harness, it won't fix it.

You would need to check the following:
1. for ground at the black wire(s) at the door module
2. for 12v+ at the module according to the schematics
Thanks again : I"ll recheck for frayed wires .
Check for ground before replacing harness.
What kind of problem from the connector in the jamb to the rest of the trucks harness
should I check? Bad wires?
After cutting off the present harness
can I splice the spare harness with electrical tape instead of sodering them?
I"ll send photos of spare harness before getting started.
I think there is enough length on spare harness, including boot from the connector to the cut off of spare harness.



Will that work?
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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The only problem with cutting the Door - Window Harness is knowing whether the problem is on the INSIDE or Body Side area of the Post versus being on the Door Side of the Harness. Your GM OEM Digital Service manual should have imagery in the Body and Electrical Chapters on how that area is rigged up with various Harness and Junction Connectors.

If you dig into the Door Jamb... You'll still need to remove that Door Strap Restraining Unit shown in the Video I posted above...and be certain to restrain the Driver's Side Door from opening up so wide as to cause the Sheet Metal between the outer edge of the Door from crimping and crushing against the Driver's Side Fender Panel.

It would be helpful if you are having a problem with the Class 2 Single Wire Network-to-Module or an issue with the BCM getting involved and have access to a Tech 2 Scanner... as Testing ALL of the Door Locks and Windows Up-Down actuation would be awesome and definitive as per @MAY03LT 's Video.

As far as Cutting and Taping any Automotive Wiring... it is ill-advised and in fact invites Copper Oxide invading ALL of the Cut Wires. Over time with exposure to moisture laden air, this seriously increases the Resistance in the entire Wire Harness segments and invites Blowing Fuses as the Non-Conducting Copper Green-Oxide Corrosion gradually propagates inside of and along the Wiring.

If necessary... the Best Bonding Method is to Solder and Seal the wires after first sliding on the Automotive Grade, Glue Impregnated Heat Shrink and using a Butune Lighter or 1400 Watt Heat Gun for a Weather-Corrosion Proof Seal.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Whoa! There shouldn't be any cutting of wires involved. There is a connector in the door jamb to separate them. But, before doing any of that, you MUST diagnose WHY it's not working as per my last post.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
Thanks again : I"ll recheck for frayed wires .
Check for ground before replacing harness.
What kind of problem from the connector in the jamb to the rest of the trucks harness
should I check? Bad wires?
After cutting off the present harness
can I splice the spare harness with electrical tape instead of sodering them?
I"ll send photos of spare harness before getting started.
I think there is enough length on spare harness, including boot from the connector to the cut off of spare harness.



Will that work?
you need to find the right circuit diagram for the control module / window controls. The one that you posted provides NONE of the wiring going to the module that provides the information around powering and signalling. That's what you need to find and check. Don't cut any wires until you get that and do those checks.
 
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