wheel bearing noise

kenzoil

Active Member
Think I finally figured out I have a bad wheel bearing , which is making for a loud noise , going straight. I can't remember for sure, but I believe you determine which bearing is bad in the front by putting it under load. If I turn the steering wheel to the right and the noise continues, but when I turn the steering wheel to the left and it disappears, which bearing is gone? I think in my case it would be the LEFT bearing that is shot, correct? can anyone confirm that for me? Thanks.
 

Wooluf1952

Well-Known Member
Your thinking is correct. Unfortunately, we've found over the years, it doesn't always work that way. Changing the left bearing should fix the problem, but don't be surprised if the right one is bad.
 

dmanns67

Well-Known Member
Surprisingly, both of mine went bad at the same time or very close together. If you do one, might as well do both.
 

Envoy_04

Well-Known Member
:iagree: I'm a "do em both while you're in to it" type guy. Especially if they've never been replaced before, go for both.

Short story: Dad's 06 Silverado had a bearing go out in early-mid 07. Under warranty, they replaced the bad one, and Dad tried to get them to replace the other one as well, but they wouldn't. Guess who was back about a month later with the other bearing they said was "still good" gone out of their truck...
 

Playsinsnow

Well-Known Member
kenzoil said:
Thanks for the help guys. The right bearing was replaced about 2 years ago.
With what brand? Many have reported failing aftermarket hubs. Less than a year in some cases. Two Timkens ftw. :thumbsup:
 

JerryIrons

Well-Known Member
Has anybody ever tried that trick where you feel a bad bearing? I saw that video on youtube, where the vehicle is up on jacks. You put one hand on the coil spring, and manually turn the wheel with the other hand and the guy says you can tell which side has the bad wheel bearing every time. Apparently you can feel it all the way up in the coil spring.

Also, back to the OP, usually if you turn right, and the noise gets quieter or goes away, the right one is bad. (as in turning right on an exit ramp going 40 mph or so) And vice versa of course. In your case I would bet money the left one is shot. You have it spot on!
 

IllogicTC

Well-Known Member
JerryIrons said:
Has anybody ever tried that trick where you feel a bad bearing? I saw that video on youtube, where the vehicle is up on jacks. You put one hand on the coil spring, and manually turn the wheel with the other hand and the guy says you can tell which side has the bad wheel bearing every time. Apparently you can feel it all the way up in the coil spring.

Also, back to the OP, usually if you turn right, and the noise gets quieter or goes away, the right one is bad. (as in turning right on an exit ramp going 40 mph or so) And vice versa of course. In your case I would bet money the left one is shot. You have it spot on!
I know a bunch of people around here try the wiggle trick. Watch the backside of course to make sure it's not your steering components allowing looseness, if they all check out tight and you can still get some wobble it is likely the hub assembly. If they're bad enough just having them up in the air and giving it a good whirl can tell you, I don't know the details on how easy they should be to turn with the goofy front axle assemblies we have but difficulty in turning is another factor.
 

Aaron143

New Member
Just replaced my front right bearing, the sound was faint so the turning side to side the sound stayed the same. I did the hand on the coil and spun the wheel and I was surprised I could feel the vibration in the coil, so yes it does work.
 

rcam81

Silver Supporter
I lost both of mine 500 miles apart. Got just short of 80K out of the originals. Replaced them with Timkens.
 

dla442

Well-Known Member
Yup do both...I used timkens just a tad more than your napa, autozone etc but worth it I think. Good,luck
 

Instrumental

Well-Known Member
I just changed my drivers hub yesterday. The shop had a WBI hub, they're made in Michigan and that sounds good to me. I put it on with no real problems, did my test drive and all seemed well. Today, driving to church, about 10 miles down the road my ABS and Stabilitrak lights popped on. A buddy has a Tech 2, and sure enough that new hub is showing no data. I hope it's a dud, I really want a Michigan made hub to be a good alternative. So, it's back to the garage for me!
 

Instrumental

Well-Known Member
Just finished, turns out the wire harness exiting the hub was crimped too long, as you can see in the photo. The base of the lugs rubbed on it until it gave way. New one is on and seems great so far.

 
OP
OP
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kenzoil

Active Member
Replacing my drivers side this weekend. Can someone tell me the size of the center axle nut used to hold on the bearing hub? Want to make sure I have one on hand. thanks
 

willbill92

Well-Known Member
kenzoil said:
Replacing my drivers side this weekend. Can someone tell me the size of the center axle nut used to hold on the bearing hub? Want to make sure I have one on hand. thanks
If I recall it is a 35 mm socket it like 10-15 bucks at autozone. Good luck :thumbsup:.
 

jballentine

Active Member
What is the torque requirement for the axle nut? I've searched all over older post on wheel bearings. Thank you in advance.
 

crushed452

New Member
Hey all, first I want to say thank you for all the posts I've relied on to do a bunch of work on my 02 TB. I have some serious front end noise when I turn to the left. I've replaced the CV axle, the inner and outer tie rod ends, the upper and lower ball joints, sway bar link ends and the wheel bearings on the right side. Also replaced the same with the exception of the CV axle and wheel bearing on the left. the noise got worse so I replaced the needle bearings and seals in the carrier for the right side CV axle.

I'm at a loss for what the noise could be after completing all the replacements that posts suggested.

Any help would be appreciated
 

The_Roadie

Founding Member
Administrator
crushed452 said:
... replaced the same with the exception of the CV axle and wheel bearing on the left. ...
Welcome! And all the volunteers here appreciate the kind words. If there's a wheel bearing you didn't change yet, that's the prime suspect. Am I missing something?
 

kickass audio

Well-Known Member
Like roadie said it is best to do the bearings in pairs. My rear ones (I should shut up while I am ahead of the game) are fine but my front bearings were making noise until I replaced them both. I had the noise whenever I turned to the right even very slightly it would moan. I jacked up the whole front end and had no play at any position of the wheel so it wasn't obvious which one was shot. I figured that most of the time, now it is NOT accurate but sometimes can help, that if you turn your wheel to one side and the noise is present then sometimes its the bearing on the opposite side that is bad. Like how you went and replaced your passenger side bearing because it only makes noise when turning left. I made that mistake on my truck where I replaced my left front bearing assembly and it was quiet for awhile and then when it got cold out the noise was back. I went on here and asked about the likelihood of that happening so soon and I luckily kept the first bearing assembly I replaced and bought another one and threw it on the right side and the noise is completely gone.

You could easily just take the bearing from one side and put it to the other but it would be easier imo to just get another one and do your left bearing. :thumbsup: It's up to you really since its your truck.
 

The_Roadie

Founding Member
Administrator
I absolutely howled when I saw the trailvoy resident idiot recommended to you that the struts could be a cause. :rotfl: Flat out impossible. :hissyfit: No wonder he didn't come here when we started the new forum - his horrible advice would have been mocked up one side and down the other. :raspberry:
 

crushed452

New Member
The_Roadie said:
Many owners only change them in pairs because the stress is about the same unless you drive on left-turning ovals a lot. :wink: Whenone fails, the other is usually close.
That was it exactly. Replaced driver side bearing assembly and the noise is gone and the ABS light finally went out.
 

kickass audio

Well-Known Member
Glad that fixed it!! :wootwoot:

Since you mentioned ABS, you bring up a good point with something I found on both my envoy and my dads tahoe. When both of us had bad front bearings the abs light never came on but in my dads tahoe if you just started the truck and back out of the driveway and apply the brake you would hear and feel the growl of the ABS kicking on and we were not even going fast or sliding at all. With my envoy the brake did that at random times for engaging ABS. It went away on both our trucks when we replaced the bad hub.
 

rcam81

Silver Supporter
When both of my hubs went bad, I never got an ABS light. All I got was the telltale growl. Hmmm....
 

Instrumental

Well-Known Member
I'll put in a vote for not changing both at the same time. I got like 20,000 more miles off of the left bearing before it went bad.

On this truck, no ABS problems for me either, just noise. My Aztek had the ABS go first on one of the bearings.
 

kickass audio

Well-Known Member
Yep same here. The growl and the vibration in the pedal when it engages. I don't think it will set the light for it unless its disconnected and can't read any continuity.
 

JerryIrons

Well-Known Member
kickass audio said:
Yep same here. The growl and the vibration in the pedal when it engages. I don't think it will set the light for it unless its disconnected and can't read any continuity.
If you have a wheel speed sensor going bad, it will cause the abs to kick on at low speeds, but it will not light up the abs light. You are correct if the wire is cut, it will cause an ABS light. (and traction control too I believe)
 

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