What year TB 4L60Es are compatible with each other?

SpeedUp

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Apr 15, 2017
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McKinney, TX
I have a 2008 4x4 and I found a 2005 4x4 core for $100. My truck is running fine, but was wondering if I purchased this core if it would be a direct swap with mine after I rebuilt it.

From what I have read it looks like most 4L60Es can be adapted to fit, but I was looking more for a directly interchangeable option.

thanks!
 

Reprise

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That would be pretty close to direct. The biggest 'transition' years for the later models are 2001 (some valve body & other changes), and 2004 (when GM introduced a separate TCM and split it off from the PCM). Since the 2005 should have provisions (wiring) for that TCM (it fastens to the case), you should be set. But I would swap the module from the 2008, just to be safe.

The other big thing would be if you were swapping a 2wd w/ a 4wd, or vice-versa, as there's an adapter for the 4wd that has to be fasten to the case (name escapes me - I'm only on cup of coffee #2 right now). But you're going 4wd <> 4wd, so you're set there. Happy swapping!

Since you're rebuilding, give some thought to addressing the weak areas of the 4L60e. If you're going 'all-out', you'll already know about this. If you create a rebuild thread, I'll certainly subscribe to it! :hail:
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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I don't think the TCM separation from the PCM played any part and that was only with the V8 trucks. I6 used the single PCM until 2009.

However, just looking at the tranny internals, there was a change in 2007 if you look at the shift kits available. Prior to that, 1996-2006 were the same kit. Looking up trannies on car-part.com, it lists only 2008 as a compatible year for the two versions it lists (TAD and TWD, whatever those are?). Listing for 2007 say 2006-2007 fit.

Who knows. Maybe they're all the same with just minor changes.
 
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SpeedUp

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Thanks so much for your feedback! This is probably going to sound dumb but I got the idea for attempting this project after watching those great 'transmission bench' videos. Those are so interesting, I could watch them like a good movie over and over lol. I figured for $100 bucks I wanted to get my hands on this.

And, if I had a working tranny I could use in my truck when needed it was a win/win.

I am not familiar with upgrading the internal weak components of the 4l60e.
 
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Reprise

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I am not familiar with upgrading the internal weak components of the 4l60e

Go back to 'Transmission Bench' vid '4L60e Common Problems' - he mentions them. At least one of them, he goes into in some detail on the later vids - the PWM / TCC valve, and the two solutions for it (he prefers the Sonnax 'reaming' method; most of us here have gone the TransGo route, with good long-term results.)

From my perspective, these are the things that need attention in a full rebuild:
- PWM / TCC valve
- Sunshell
- 3rd / 4th clutch pack
- Plastic accumulators
- New / hardened separator plate (and / or Torlon check balls in the VB)

If you want to go 'bulletproof', you can look at a new fluid pump (10-vane is fine for most, although a 13-vane is available) and 5 pinion front / rear planetaries (vs. the std 4). After that, the output shaft. But unless you're racing with this trans (and many have), or perhaps towing on a full-time basis (I wouldn't), the first group of items s/b sufficient for most users.

GM added some of the second list to what became the 4L65 / 4L70 / 4L75 versions (and all of them are derived from the old Turbo 350, including the predecessor of the 4L60 - the 700R4, which I had in a '98 Grand Prix - which had to be the smoothest shifting A/T I've ever had in a passenger car).

I've said it before - GM made some pretty good slushboxes - especially compared to their other two domestic competitors. Some of our members don't like the 4L60 so much - but I think history has shown it to be a pretty good unit (at least until GM started doing things to reduce production cost at the expense of longevity - like those plastic accumulators, for example.) Or the TCC valve, which improved FE (marginally) and perhaps 'user experience / ergonomics', but again, sacrificed durability to obtain it.

Probably the 'best' mod you could make -- is an external cooler (separate from or plumbed in series with the stocker). Get something in the 20K BTU range, and you'll never have to worry about overheating, even towing up mountains in +90F temps. If you're not towing, a 10K would prolly be OK -- it's what I have in my Voy, but if I were going to keep towing with it, I'd swap it out for a bigger unit.

I'll second those Transmission Bench vids - in fact, I may pony up for the 4L80 series and build a 'stump puller' version for my Sierra this winter to swap in place of the stocker (which is already regarded as pretty strong, but parts do wear out...)

However, just looking at the tranny internals, there was a change in 2007 if you look at the shift kits available. Prior to that, 1996-2006 were the same kit. Looking up trannies on car-part.com, it lists only 2008 as a compatible year for the two versions it lists (TAD and TWD, whatever those are?). Listing for 2007 say 2006-2007 fit.

Ok -- I stand (partially) corrected...LOL. I know the separator plates changed additionally (2001-up comes to mind, along with 1997-2000).

TAD / TWD are internal (engine) codes (not RPOs) - it looks like the TWD were the beefier (?) versions, as they are listed in V8 applications, for the most part. TAD were mostly 6 cylinder).
(Don't feel bad - I had to look that up, myself)
No, I don't know HOW they differed... I think in terms of RPOs - M30, M32, etc. :biggrin:
 

SpeedUp

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What do you guys think about aluminum deep pans on the 4l60e? Do you see a problem not having the pan magnets?
 

Reprise

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If your 4L60e is in / going into a GMT360 / 370, then it already has a deeper pan than, say, an automotive-based application (e.g.; A / F / G-bodies, etc.) Or if it came out of a pickup. In the 360s, you have a 'notched' pan, to account for the exhaust / body crossmember. If you see that (I believe the pickup trucks have that, too), you know you have the GM 'deep pan'.

Now...on aluminum pans...In my mind, they would have one (somewhat dubious) advantage - they would be lighter (but not too much, given the item - that's why I say 'dubious'). Heat dissipation vs. a steel pan? Marginal, IMO, given the surface area. (perhaps someone with more experience in alloys might contribute further; in my case, 'cookware' and 'engine heads / blocks')

Given that aluminum is non-ferrous, and conventional pan magnets would not be usable - I see this as a *big* disadvantage. Moving components cause friction, and friction causes wear. Wear inevitably dislodges material - even if it's nothing more than clutch material in minute amounts. With a plug / pan magnet to catch these in fluid suspension, and keep them from circulating further through the case & components, the chances of a catastrophic failure resulting from those wear items are minimized. That's why, when we do a filter replacement ('service', 'pan drop'), we usually see evidence of that wear on the plug & magnet; we clean those items, reinsert them, and they are ready to catch further filings, etc.

Without a magnet, I think (?) you would need to result to an external filter as a safeguard - which lends it's own risk factor - should something sufficiently large get into this filter, it might restrict enough fluid to starve the unit and cause failure in short order (about 90 seconds without fluid is sufficient to burn the 3-4 clutches, for example).

With all of those things being said - I'd be really reticent to forgo having something in the pan to catch stray particles. The pan magnet may prove insufficient on occasion, but I'd much rather have one in the pan, than not - because we know that filings / particles *will* be produced via normal wear. That's why filters (in the 4L60) aren't considered 'lifetime' units, and we occasionally have to drop the pan and put a new one in (at which time we check / clean the pan magnet and replace it into the pan.

Someone who has more knowledge may be able to comment further (or refute the above). But the above would be my approach. YMMV.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Ottawa, ON
You could just glue the magnet to the bottom of the aluminum pan.
 
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SpeedUp

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McKinney, TX
I thought about that, and then worried it would dislodge then I would have glue bits/residue in the pan. Let me ask you this - this is the pan I purchased from PML, it has filter support posts that elevate the filter. The round magnet that came with my stock pan could go around that post. Would that be bad? To put it around the post, and if it moved from hitting a bump or something, it would just hit the bottom of the filter???

Edit: Updated pic to correct purchased model

pml2.jpg
 
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Mooseman

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At first I was scratching my head as to a round magnet in a tranny pan since all I've ever seen were square ones. Then figured it's the same "round speaker" type as in the differential.

I don't think there would be any harm in what you are thinking. The magnet would also have to overcome the weight of the fluid around it before it would move significantly. Think dropping a quarter into a glass of water.
 
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SpeedUp

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Ahh yes, sorry my pan came with 2 of these donut looking magnets. Thanks again for the great info, you guys are the best!!

mag.jpg
 

Reprise

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OP,

You have the wrong pan. I'll save the 'why', as the info is on PML's website (unless someone wants me to go into my usual excruciating detail...lol)

They make part # 9427 as a direct fit for the GMT360s. If you really want more fluid cap (this pan gives 1.5 qt over stock), that's the one I'd get. And the cast one would be fine - unless this is a 'show' vehicle, who's going to be looking underneath it?

If you're wanting more 'cooling'...get an external cooler (and depending on the cooler you get, would probably add an extra .5qt on top of that). That will give you the most cooling for the $ spent. Just my :twocents: ...
 
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SpeedUp

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McKinney, TX
Yes sir, sorry for the confusion, that pic i posted was from their site as an example showing the standoff posts to support the filter. I did get the correct model, as well as an external cooler kit from PCMofNC. The receipt shows the rubber lines, I did upgrade those to the better braided lines. Good eye Reprise! :smile:

With those 2 things installed I have not seen my tranny get higher than 170-180 degrees on the hottest texas days in bumper to bumper stop-n-go traffic. At highway speeds it probably runs too cold, like 120-150.

pml.jpg
pcm.jpg
 
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Capote

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You could just glue the magnet to the bottom of the aluminum pan.
When I put in my last transmission I forgot to put the magnet back inside in pan.... That's what I ended up doing. It has caught all sorts of little metallic particles just from driving around, therefore I assume it's attracting any particles inside the pan as well.
 
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Dr.Fiero

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Dec 7, 2017
161
S. Alberta
This MIGHT only apply to the full size trucks, but....
Starting 2008 (mid 07?), a pressure sense line (wire) was added as an output of the 4L60.

So you can take a late tranny, and stick it in an early, but not the other way around (since the vehicle would keep looking for the signal from the trans!).
 
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SpeedUp

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McKinney, TX
When I put in my last transmission I forgot to put the magnet back inside in pan.... That's what I ended up doing. It has caught all sorts of little metallic particles just from driving around, therefore I assume it's attracting any particles inside the pan as well.

How long did you go before dropping the pan again?
 
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Capote

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Mooseman

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If sticking it on the outside of the pan, I would use a strong neodymium magnet since that magnet has to work through the thickness of the aluminum.
 

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