What did you do to your GMT today?

[Mooseman]

Went to start the Saab and... click. Gave it a boost with one of those small lithium jump packs and it started right up. Voltage wasn't going any higher than 13.4V, which was odd as it should be giving it the beans to charge it up. After running the errand, hooked up my little battery tester and the battery tested good. Ran the alternator test and it failed with a low charging voltage. Cranking test passed. So tomorrow I'll be hunting for an alternator.

 

[Mike534x]

Got the coffee can removed earlier before work! Guy who runs the muffler shop wanted to buy the Envoy off me, said its the cleanest hes ever seen come through his place. I'd say it looks good. I may change out the tip, its an SS knock off from Amazon that's roughly an inch and half wider in diameter. Sounds mean though with the Magnaflow! So far drone isn't as bad as I thought, compared to the stock resonator I'd say its roughly 25% louder.

 

[TollKeeper]

So glad my Envoy V8 didnt have that trash can from the factory.. Although I never understood why it didnt.

 

[Mike534x]

So glad my Envoy V8 didnt have that trash can from the factory.. Although I never understood why it didnt.

I have no idea either, every 03-04 XL/EXT I've seen with the V8 didn't have it then all of a sudden 05 comes around and its there. I hated it mostly because its a pain to change out the reverse light with it in the way.

 

[Mooseman]

Changed the alternator. Went to a couple of places. My usual place only had a reman by some unknown company named OE Vision with a 2 year warranty for $185. No thanks. Went to another place that I also deal with but usually costs more. A new one with a 5 year warranty for $166. Same brand as the one I used on the old TB (Power Flite) that lasted longer than the truck itself. Running well with good voltages now.

Also swapped the thermal fan clutch with the one from the old TB. They are exactly the same, same markings, same orange seal, both marked Made in USA. Looking at RA pics, both Hayden and Four Seasons use the same pics so...? We'll see how this one handles the heat. It did slow down much faster than the one before, within a few seconds rather than a couple of minutes.

Then swapped the rear springs, again, from the old TB (love having free spare parts!). Anyway, as soon as I dropped the diff, these fell out:



That explained my Saab's sagging ass. No idea where they came from as they were installed by the PO. Rustier than the others. Now she sits pretty high and it rides very stiff since the springs are from an EXT. Since it's mostly relegated to towing duties, this might work out.

 

[Mike534x]

Woah! Did those just rust out because of the heavy salt use up there, or could they be some cheapo springs tossed in?

 

[Mooseman]

I dunno. Last time I looked at them was when I replaced the diff about 4 years ago, they were just as rusty. No idea where they're from. And this truck originally came with the air bags so they would have been replaced maybe not that long before I bought it.

 

[Mike534x]

Fiddled around with the spare tire hoist, looks like the locking mechanism is rusted out. Sprayed it with PB balster, and I'm going to try taking another crack at it tomorrow.

Spent the rest of the day doing some reading. I'm still unsure why the Envoy is giving me a very firm/hard shift from 1st to 2nd, enough to chirp the tires at anything more then 30% throttle. My conclusion is I either put the wrong 1-2 accumulator spring in (purple Sonnax one), or my accumulator housing has slight wear causing it to catch. I ordered up 2 Delco springs, both identical to the orginals to throw in there to see if it helps. It never did it before, until changing the piston out for the Sonnax pinless and the Sonnax purple spring.

 

[mrrsm]

2006 envoy denali shifting hards with no slipping

I have a 2006 envoy denali with 106k miles. Today(03/31/14) the transmission started shifting very very hard from 1st to 2nd. It shift so hard it will "bark" the tires. shift little hard from 2nd to 3rd and little less hard from 3rd to drive. I havent noticed any slipping. What could cause this...

gmtnation.com

 

[Mooseman]

Fiddled around with the spare tire hoist, looks like the locking mechanism is rusted out. Sprayed it with PB balster, and I'm going to try taking another crack at it tomorrow.

Which reminds me, I also tried to lower the spare on the Saab and the hoist won't even turn. It stripped the square tool. It's not the secondary lock since I had already flipped the wheel. Damn this thing has a lot of rust . I'll see if I can free it using a close enough socket.

 

[Matt]

Replaced the tensioner yesterday to stop a chirping...yep, it's still there. It may be the idler pulley.

 

[mrrsm]

@Matt... Bad Alternator Bearing?

 

[Mike534x]

2006 envoy denali shifting hards with no slipping

I have a 2006 envoy denali with 106k miles. Today(03/31/14) the transmission started shifting very very hard from 1st to 2nd. It shift so hard it will "bark" the tires. shift little hard from 2nd to 3rd and little less hard from 3rd to drive. I havent noticed any slipping. What could cause this...

gmtnation.com

View attachment 96142

Thank you! I'll try giving that a shot again, I did pull the fuses the first time around when I had the pan dropped to swap them out. So far its just 1-2, 3-4 is as smooth as its ever been.

Which reminds me, I also tried to lower the spare on the Saab and the hoist won't even turn. It stripped the square tool. It's not the secondary lock since I had already flipped the wheel. Damn this thing has a lot of rust . I'll see if I can free it using a close enough socket.

Mine is the opposite, the hoist turns but nothing happens. Part of the cable just comes through the bracket but the tire won't budge. I tried getting on the ground to her a few kicks to try and break the crude free, but no dice.

 

[northcreek]

Mine is the opposite, the hoist turns but nothing happens. Part of the cable just comes through the bracket but the tire won't budge. I tried getting on the ground to her a few kicks to try and break the crude free, but no dice.

Is it possible to install a cut-out junkyard well in place of the storage compartment to move the spare inside?
My JGC has the spare inside and still has plenty of room for other junk. I'm thinking frame rail clearance but, if it fits from the bottom, it should from the top, right?

 

[Mike534x]

@northcreek I'm not sure if it is, there's also trying to find someone to weld in the new storage compartment. After looking at a picture, the frame rail runs right underneath that area. I think with the money and effort spent, it might be more feasible to just replace the entire assembly and coat it in fluid film or something and just do a reapply every year. My next option is just removing the entire thing and just getting a spare tire hoist for the receiver and keep it mounted near the tailgate.

 

[gmcman]

Replaced the tensioner yesterday to stop a chirping...yep, it's still there. It may be the idler pulley.

I replaced my tensioner pulley and tensioner last fall, ended up with a slight noise, somewhat of a tap but high pitched.

Turned out the pulley was just a few thousandths wider than stock and slightly touching the timing chain cover.

 

[zkepler00]

Went for a Sunday cruise and took a bunch of pictures at a park before the storms rolled in.

 

[gmcman]

Went for a Sunday cruise and took a bunch of pictures at a park before the storms rolled in.
View attachment 96150

Very cool pic, thanks for sharing.

 

[Mike534x]

Pulled the fuses from @MRRSM post, for good measure I pulled the TCM fuse under the rear seat. Left it sitting for an hour, and put them back in and did another test drive. Its not chirping now thankfully, but it still shifts a bit harder then it should but much better! I suspect the extra firmness is from not running the second inner spring, which I think cushions it? I know the thick piston reduces travel also which more then likely plays a part in it. I ordered the OEM springs to throw in to replace the Sonnax spring on Tuesday while doing the shift kit. This should give me the firmer shift, while making it softer at the same time.

Also bright side with the coffee can loped off, I now know my TCC valve is a bit worn. I'm able to hear the slight change in exhaust tone while driving on the highway. Its very faint, but noticeable. So I'm glad I have the kit to get it swapped out before it actually gets worse.

 

[Matt]

@Matt... Bad Alternator Bearing?

Nope, it was checked when I had it out week before last.

I replaced my tensioner pulley and tensioner last fall, ended up with a slight noise, somewhat of a tap but high pitched.

Turned out the pulley was just a few thousandths wider than stock and slightly touching the timing chain cover.

Figures. I'm not overly concerned because it's just at idle, but it's annoying.

 

[Mounce]

Truck drops a lifter about 4 miles into my morning commute every other day now. Pretty concerning. Time for an oil change so maybe that'll help.

Had to leave work to check on the TB, check gauges light and oil pressure bottomed out. Seems like the sensor again, not leaking this time but whatever. Been a couple months short of a year since I replaced it with acdelco. Could be the connector but we'll see whenever I have time to check it out.

 

[mrrsm]

@Mounce ...Just sayin', but is it time for the Infamous Old "Hot Oil Flush" using some New, Cheap Organic 5W-30 Oil and a New, Cheap Oil Filter... Minus One Quart of Oil in Exchange for One Quart of ATF?

A 15 Minute Hot Idle ought to do the Trick and revive any of those easily clogged up tiny ports in those lifters and flush out the adjacent galleries. Probably couldn't hurt...

Anyway... A few days ago...I was just "Slumming on eBay" when I spied a Complete PDC for a 2002-2003 Chevrolet (4WD?) Trailblazer for Only $29.00 & Free S&H. Hell.. it was worth getting the Complete Damned Thing just for cost of replacement Fuses and Relays at that Buy It Now Price. They even threw in the Harness Block Connectors, too.

One "Proof of Purchase" Image is shown below and the rest of the 'close ups' are over on my "Flickr-Bucket" Image Album at the Link below. The other friendly aspect over there is having Fresh Images of Old hardware showing all of the Relay Part Numbers ...nice & clear and in living color:



https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157715440151082

 

[aaserv]

Pile of parts ready to go....wish I had someone to get out in this 105 deg heat index to put em on. Got my all OEM line up....Bilsteins, ACD OEM Grade rotors and pads and a new OEM ignition switch. Im thinking not many people use the OEM versions of these parts....The ignition switch is in a bag that looks to have been on every parts shelf across the U.S. for the last 15 years. This thing is the definition of NOS....... But I think these brake pads may have been on about half the shelves with them....gotta be 10 yrs old at least. How many times were these 2 parts slid off the shelf brought to the counter , the customer given the price and right back on the shelf they went!! Id really love to know.... Rotors dont seem to be as old but then again as heavy as these SOB's are the counter guys probably knew to quote them the price 1st before going and pulling them.. Maybe they just sat in 1 spot a really long time.
Got about 2 more weeks until it will be exactly 1 year since I parked it and started this adventure. Got upwards of $2.5k in new and used parts on it...Everything but the radio stone stock.
Only elcheapos are the rear shocks, they new but detroit axle junk and the 1 part that started the whole thing....the fan clutch. Hopefully by the end of the month Ill have an OEM 1 on the way but until then my $40 ebay will have to do....make that my 2nd $40 ebay ....in 6 weeks......LOL

 

[Mounce]

@Mounce ...Just sayin', but is it time for the Infamous Old "Hot Oil Flush" using some New, Cheap Organic 5W-30 Oil and a New, Cheap Oil Filter... Minus One Quart of Oil in Exchange for One Quart of ATF?

Used a quart of atf for my last top off on the oil change before last and drove her for a week or more with it. Didn't do much obviously. Also used seafoam the oil change before that but as directed, no lengthy soak and drive. Again, no apparent benefit. My motor isn't real dirty inside, at least on the top end, I change the oil every 3-5k, usually in the middle around 4k. Also doesn't help I used a new to me oil last oil change so I'll avoid that from now on for piece of mind. I believe I've just got a lifter going bad or something I though of today is an issue with a lifter bore that gets tight at certain temps. Hasn't been to uncommon for it to tap pretty bad occasionally but when it starts misfiring from it I worry about it and it's misfired every time it has collapsed here lately. I'll fix it when it dies.

Changed the oil today right at 3k. Went back to my oil of choice, 530 max life. Fingers crossed. So far oil pressure runs higher than with the last oil, a name brand dexos spec'd synthetic 530 (havoline). Good news is, no metal on drain plug magnet. Not even a dusting of metal. My parents 03 always had a fur of powdered metal filings on the plug but it only ran conventional and changed per olm. Who knows. I'm just along for the ride at this point.

 

[mrrsm]

FWIW... and NOT to keep plowing this furrow 'too deep' ... and without knowing whether you have tried out this particular idea or not in a dedicated Thread already... Brian from Briansmobile1 YT Channel solved a Seriously Ticking LS Engine using a combination of a Commercial Engine Flush as already covered AND... by the Direct Application of Berryman's Chem-Tool Spray as per this worthwhile video:

 

[gmcman]

@Mounce, I had a tick when starting a cold motor (4200 Vortec) for a year or two. Not all the time, but would go away after about 5-10 sec and I thought it was possibly being starved of oil.

I tried just about everything, including removing lifters and trying to clean them. What was odd is if I shut the motor off and immediately restarted, the tick would go away. Never happened while driving, only on start up.

My valvetrain was near spotless, but the pesky lash adjuster kept showing it's face. I finally caved and replaced all of them, been quiet ever since, not even a hint of a tap or tick.

You will need a momentary push-button for the starter and this tool., Kent Moore EN-47945.

 

[Mounce]

@Mounce, I had a tick when starting a cold motor (4200 Vortec) for a year or two. Not all the time, but would go away after about 5-10 sec and I thought it was possibly being starved of oil.

I tried just about everything, including removing lifters and trying to clean them. What was odd is if I shut the motor off and immediately restarted, the tick would go away. Never happened while driving, only on start up.

My valvetrain was near spotless, but the pesky lash adjuster kept showing it's face. I finally caved and replaced all of them, been quiet ever since, not even a hint of a tap or tick.

You will need a momentary push-button for the starter and this tool., Kent Moore EN-47945.

View attachment 96177

This is on my Silverado w/ V8. Good info though! Mine will also go away after a restart but it needs to be off for about a minute.

 

[Mike534x]

Got the Envoy to my buddies shop, right before the Derecho hit. We had it lined up to be lifted when the power ran out. No biggie, she needed to cool off anyway before pulling the trans pan. I was going to head over today, but his area is still without power until about an hour ago. Going to drop in tomorrow night and start working on getting the kit installed, he's got a friend of a friend coming in who does tranny work for a living. I guess he doesn't trust me enough to do it myself

 

[coolride]

Oil and filter change. Mobile-1 filter and 7 quarts of Walmart brand full synthetic. Also used a slag hammer around the front end to remove some rust, then applied a coat of Rustoleum.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Gave it a quick wipe down inside and out. Was too nice this morning to be inside and the 2 yr old wanted to play, then he wanted to take the truck out, so I made him help. Also let him pick a couple of the random offroad stickers to put on his battery jeep and my truck.

 

[Sparky]

Tail light bracket broke. Again - last time was a few years ago. Apparently I didn't do a good enough job on the repair. So I redid the repair.

 

[Mooseman]

Got a 12mm 12pt socket on the Saab's spare tire hoist, no-go. It's seized solid. So I'll have to cut the cable and replace it. I have the Dorman they sent me as a sample to review however, it may suffice for my needs since I would not be driving it in winter. Only problem is finding it in my pile, if I even still have it. Or I'll just go and find a used one at the u-pull.

 

[aaserv]

Was up early so decided to change some passenger side plugs while Ive got tires and struts out the way. got the 2 middle cyls 4 and 6 but i was soaked by the time i finished those. Just to frickin hot...Made a plan for #2, still havent layed an eye on #8. If i had an air conditioned shop with a full set of tools I believe it would be just as easy to pull the head off to change the passenger side plugs....unbelievable!

 

[Mooseman]

So I found that Dorman spare tire hoist and went to work on it. Cut the cable at the bottom end and it still wouldn't break loose. I was able to bend the ears of the bracket to slip it through the wheel hole. And what I saw was not pretty:



The rear bracket that locates the spare tire is rusted out. It's welded to the frame so I can't just get another one from a junker. So I'll just carry the spare in the cargo area.

Oddly enough, the bolts that hold the hoist came out without issues.

This truck's lifespan is getting shorter and shorter.

 

[Mike534x]

Was up early so decided to change some passenger side plugs while Ive got tires and struts out the way. got the 2 middle cyls 4 and 6 but i was soaked by the time i finished those. Just to frickin hot...Made a plan for #2, still havent layed an eye on #8. If i had an air conditioned shop with a full set of tools I believe it would be just as easy to pull the head off to change the passenger side plugs....unbelievable!

I know your pain, doing the plugs on these trucks are an absolute pain in the ass. It really shows how much the engine bay was designed around the I6 (from my point of view). I found removing the strut on the passenger side made getting the middle two easy-ish. I cut my knuckles and hand up dealing with #8. I think I used the shortest stubby wrench and swivel heads I can squeeze in to get the plug out. I've seen mentions of going up under the truck with the socket and trying to go from that angle (or through the wheel well with the strut still out).

The rear bracket that locates the spare tire is rusted out. It's welded to the frame so I can't just get another one from a junker. So I'll just carry the spare in the cargo area.

Oddly enough, the bolts that hold the hoist came out without issues.

This truck's lifespan is getting shorter and shorter.

Damn! That's on the Saab too?? That's wild, I did not think it would look that bad. We had a 15 Silverado come by from Ontario the other day and the frame looked like it was from a 20 year old truck with all the rust underneath.




Left my buddies shop with the Envoy an hour ago. What a freakin difference. We left it sitting overnight for a leak test, and I had to leave to take care of stuff so we left it for this morning. It honestly feels like a brand new transmission, shifts are a bit firmer, and quicker. I left when they did the separator plate install, and I'm 99% sure they drilled out the designated holes Trans-go recommended for the quick/smooth option. He also put the boost valve in for me. Otherwise it feels great having the TC lock up like a 5th gear now, and it actually downshifts (wouldn't before) when you really get on it. Out of everything I've done so far, I feel the shift kit is the best mod for the money (followed by the PCM tune).

After leaving work, 1-2 is back to chirping again like it was before. I've got the PCM and TCM fuses pulled again, I'm going to let it sit for a few hours to let it reset fully hopefully. It cleared up last time, but I suspect it could be that it needs to be driven to work the trans lube out of the accumulator bore, or the fact the OEM springs need to be worked in. Either way, it should clear up again hopefully. Its not an overly harsh shift like I mentioned days ago, but its still a bit on the stiff side.

 

[Sparky]

Closed the rear door and heard something hit the driveway. Meh, who needs rockers... sigh. 223k runs great but man she's looking rougher every day.

 

[Mike534x]

Closed the rear door and heard something hit the driveway. Meh, who needs rockers... sigh. 223k runs great but man she's looking rougher every day.

I'll never understand how the full-size trucks have such a huge problem with the rockers rusting out. My Avalanche wasn't nearly as bad, but it was ugly. My dad's Yukon has both rear passenger sides coming through, its only at 117k but we're contemplating cutting off the rusted parts and going with riveted slip rockers and then coating the inside with fluid film and a rust inhibitor. It might be worth the slip on ones for your truck, or well at least make it look a little prettier?

 

[Sparky]

Thought about it, but doubt it. By the time I do that and do the bed sides (those are gone over the rear wheels), the time and money for a 13 year old 223k mile truck... but it might help it hold together another 2 years.

Good thing is the frame is solid as far as I can tell. No holes there!

 

[aaserv]

Got a lil rain this afternoon ,cooled things off so I jumped on the struts. Well 1 anyway. I must have looked like a bomb squad guy taking this thing apart. Never done anything so slowly.....And when i made the last few turns on the retaining nut my heart was beating a zillion BPM! But i got it done.... Going to try to get out early in the morning and get the other 1 done...

 

[Matt]

Replaced the idler pulley...chirp still there. I'm done looking for it, when whatever it is dies, it dies.