What did you do to your GMT today?

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dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
Busy day. Packed in a lot of maintenance between the TB and F150.

Oil change.

20150322_150755.jpg

Tire rotation/put on summer wheels. Also inspected the brakes.

20150322_175400.jpg

While I was waiting for the Green intake filter to dry, I cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor. Also installed new wiper blades.

20150322_194533.jpg

Finally got around to repairing my rear defrost. Compound has to cure for at least 24 hours before hooking up.

20150322_202238.jpg
 

IllogicTC

Member
Dec 30, 2013
3,452
They came as a pair, they nearly went as a pair. RIP other brake light. Literally two days later.

Used an EZ-Out knockoff to help with screw extraction, I successfully got two out this time. Slight modding on the top post and she's good to go!
 

linneje

Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
Had one bad rear speaker, would work sometimes and other times nothing (actually, nothing most of the time, especially if my kids were trying to watch a movie). Switched sides last summer and the trouble followed the speaker, so it wasn't the wiring. Finally got around to putting some Pioneer 5 1/4 " in to replace the Bose originals. Much better sound now, and the kids can actually hear from both sides.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
Well I splurged a little more after buying new car. I showed the beaSSt some love too. Last year leaving the Midwest meet I blew out my subs. So I went and saw my brother from another mother (Glen, ghenny440) at his shop and dropped some,serious cash on a complete audio overhaul. I already have 6.5" components in each door but they're cheap and old. So I upgraded those to the Rockford Fosgate Prime Series Components. I had American Bass DX 12's in the cargo and I upgraded those to the new Rockford Fosgate punch P3's. I already have a Pioneer 7" DD (avh4300) and I have 2 Kenwood 1000W amps. I'll be swapping those out for either a Rockford 2000W amp or an American Bass 3000W amp. I'm going to have a busy few days,working on the beaSSt when she comes out of storage. I've stock piled a TON of parts over the winter........
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
Not me, but new window tint on the truck. [emoji2]
uploadfromtaptalk1427384951864.jpg
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,023
Loaded the new hood in the back and took it home.
 
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SnowBlazer

Member
Jun 9, 2014
5,775
Colorado Springs
Scheduled window tint and vacuumed her. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427394385.206986.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1427394396.892204.jpg
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
dmanns67 said:
Finally got around to repairing my rear defrost. Compound has to cure for at least 24 hours before hooking up.

attachicon.gif
20150322_202238.jpg
I let the Permatex defogger compund cure for 3 days with masking tape applying constant pressure. Pulled the tape off today and the contactor felt very solid. Hooked up the wire and I have a functional rear defogger again :celebrate:

I have read a lot of reviews about the Permatex kit and the majority of them were negative. Most of the reviews mentioned that the contactor fell off the glass in 2-3 days. Also the reviews mentioned that the compound is not conductive. If you followed the instructions on the package, then I could see why the contactor would fall off or be not conductive. Permatex has a how-to video on their site that is helpful, http://www.permatex.com/training/training-videos .

No matter what brand of rear defogger repair kit I looked up, they all had bad reviews with the same comments. The compound has an initial operating temperature window. If you tried this during the middle of winter, you might not achieve the same results which is way I have been waiting for a warm day.

Additional to the steps on the package, I used my Dremel with the sanding drum attachment to remove all residual compund from the glass and contactor so that I had a smooth surface on each. Applied the activator to both surfaces as well as the compound. Hold in place for two minutes to allow compund to setup. Says to let cure for 24hrs, but I went 72 hours with masking tape applying constant pressure.

Short term, the Permatex defogger repair kit works great. We shall see how the long term results look.
 

BlazingTrails

Member
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
dmanns67 said:
I let the Permatex defogger compund cure for 3 days with masking tape applying constant pressure. Pulled the tape off today and the contactor felt very solid. Hooked up the wire and I have a functional rear defogger again :celebrate:

I have read a lot of reviews about the Permatex kit and the majority of them were negative. Most of the reviews mentioned that the contactor fell off the glass in 2-3 days. Also the reviews mentioned that the compound is not conductive. If you followed the instructions on the package, then I could see why the contactor would fall off or be not conductive. Permatex has a how-to video on their site that is helpful, http://www.permatex.com/training/training-videos .

No matter what brand of rear defogger repair kit I looked up, they all had bad reviews with the same comments. The compound has an initial operating temperature window. If you tried this during the middle of winter, you might not achieve the same results which is way I have been waiting for a warm day.

Additional to the steps on the package, I used my Dremel with the sanding drum attachment to remove all residual compund from the glass and contactor so that I had a smooth surface on each. Applied the activator to both surfaces as well as the compound. Hold in place for two minutes to allow compund to setup. Says to let cure for 24hrs, but I went 72 hours with masking tape applying constant pressure.

Short term, the Permatex defogger repair kit works great. We shall see how the long term results look.
That's the reason people like us get results David, we want it to work so we look into it before we do it. I think it will hold up fine.
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
Here's a pic of the goodies...

20150326_164211_zpsvtkdvljh.jpg
 

redmaro42

Member
Sep 25, 2014
70
swapped out the winter snow tires and wheels for the summer wheels and tires :smile: Now to just detail the thing up after a nasty winter!
 

jpimp

Member
Feb 1, 2013
176
dmanns67 said:
I let the Permatex defogger compund cure for 3 days with masking tape applying constant pressure. Pulled the tape off today and the contactor felt very solid. Hooked up the wire and I have a functional rear defogger again :celebrate:

I have read a lot of reviews about the Permatex kit and the majority of them were negative. Most of the reviews mentioned that the contactor fell off the glass in 2-3 days. Also the reviews mentioned that the compound is not conductive. If you followed the instructions on the package, then I could see why the contactor would fall off or be not conductive. Permatex has a how-to video on their site that is helpful, http://www.permatex.com/training/training-videos .

No matter what brand of rear defogger repair kit I looked up, they all had bad reviews with the same comments. The compound has an initial operating temperature window. If you tried this during the middle of winter, you might not achieve the same results which is way I have been waiting for a warm day.

Additional to the steps on the package, I used my Dremel with the sanding drum attachment to remove all residual compund from the glass and contactor so that I had a smooth surface on each. Applied the activator to both surfaces as well as the compound. Hold in place for two minutes to allow compund to setup. Says to let cure for 24hrs, but I went 72 hours with masking tape applying constant pressure.

Short term, the Permatex defogger repair kit works great. We shall see how the long term results look.
Mines been on for more than a year, you should be fine.

This what I'm fixing today...
uploadfromtaptalk1427469523725.jpg
 
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DAlastDON

Member
Apr 6, 2014
5,550
Kentucky
Checked the fluids under the hood. Oil was nearly full and is stiil a light brown with ~6k miles on it.
 

mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
Had heard a rattle Thursday and grinding so was thinking it was a problem with the brake upgrade. Looked at it today. Seems the bridge bolt for the upper side of the driver's rear caliper broke or came out. The caliper was scraping the inside of the wheel.

Ordered that part (not in stock until Monday). After 6K miles and the oil indicator getting to 20%, the dipstick only showed about 1/2 way down in the acceptable range (no top offs) Changed the oil (it was conventional since they swapped the motor) so this one is on Mobil 1 Extended Performance full synthetic with a Fram Tough Guard filter. All the fluids looked fine. Also swapped out the reverse lights with the LEDs I had ordered. I'll see how bright those are tonight but they look good.

Want to get some lights for the bull bar now but $$ are super tight. Another client though that wants to some in trade and he's got an accessories store. I haven't closed the deal because I don't know how much I'd want from his store.
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
Replaced both hatch struts. Went to put some stuff into it and it came down on top of me.
 

DAlastDON

Member
Apr 6, 2014
5,550
Kentucky
djthumper said:
Replaced both hatch struts. Went to put some stuff into it and it came down on top of me.
Ouch...Happened to me last fall. Got me on the top of the head.
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
One strut just finally gave out. I replaced them both so they are matched. Now the wife has a hard time closing it.
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
It was winter tire to summer tire day yesterday. Looks likes any more snow will be short lived at best. Can't tell you how it feels to put the winter stuff away. Starting to dream about getting the boat out of storage and ready for summer. Cabin day is only 33 days away (they don't let us in until May 1).
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,681
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Not on mine, but helped the roommate replace the bump stops on his XUV. Old ones were crumbling to pieces.


24v 4.2 said:
Motor mounts. Old ones were pretty compressed.
:undecided: Mike did you ever get over to that tint shop and have your windows redone? Carlos and I were talking about that yesterday.


Matt said:
Putting the new hood on today...pics will follow.

ETA: New hood and old one showing how bad the rust is, yeah, it was that bad.

20150329_100213_zpso8kpgrhf.jpg
Those headlights though... :hopeless:
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,023
Blckshdw said:
Those headlights though... :hopeless:
Trick of the light and camera...they're as clear as the day it rolled out of the factory, just a bit dirty. :raspberry: :cool:

20150329_182046_zpsdstwn8mg.jpg


Saw both of my SMAXX rear end links had sheared/broken, so I got some Moogs and put them on...what a PITA.
 

24v 4.2

Member
Jan 16, 2013
430
Blckshdw said:
Mike did you ever get over to that tint shop and have your windows redone? Carlos and I were talking about that yesterday.
Yep. Had them redo the front windows with ceramic and put clear ceramic on the all the rear windows. Really cut down on the heat. :yes:
 
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Wishbone

Member
Dec 5, 2011
343
Wednesday I replaced the sway bar bushings all the way around.

Friday replaced the upper and lower ball joints and CV shafts both sides. OMG, I was really taking my life in my own hands, they were just wobbly all over the place... Can't believe my whole front end didn't fall off... Drives almost like a brand new truck now.

Saturday ordered new outer tie rod ends for both sides, should be here on Monday.

I still hear a faint squeak from what must be the passenger side control arm bushings or the Bilstien HD shocks (since I've replaced about everything else in the area).
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Drove mine all weekend with the kids. Both only wanted to ride in the "big truck" for everything. Makes it all worthwhile really.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Hosed it down at the car wash. It had salt and dirt gunk all over it again from this past Friday when we got a freak blast of snow.
 

mcsteven

Member
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
Friend helped pull the wheel and I got the bridge bolts replaced on the driver's side rear caliper. The inside of that wheel has some scrapes all around but luckily nothing too bad and nothing really on the caliper.

Cleaned it out, vacuumed, going to do the extra cleaning this weekend on the inside. Usually grab a bunch of stir sticks from Starbucks and with the disposable cloths use them to clean the vents and all the crevices. I want to get the outside done (maybe clay bar treatment) but I can't hold a buffer anymore so I'll see if I can find someone to trade it out. I doubt it needs much buffing, but I'd like it really shiny again.
 
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