What am I doing wrong? (Hub removal...)

[Dshow]

I have a 2003 TB LT. I've not been able to fix a anti-lock brake issue so I'm replacing the whole hub (the existing one hasn't been touched since... 2002?)

Anyway, I've removed the axle nut, wheel, brake, brake cable and the 3 bolts that I thought were holding on the hub... I've got a 'puller' on there that I thought I would give it a few cranks, and the hub would pop off...

Needless to say, I am cranking, but the triangular part of the hub is staying put... The cranking has gotten a little easier so I'm afraid I'm just pulling off the lug nut portion of the hub and the triangular piece will stay attached...?


What am I doing wrong? How do I get this hub off?

 

[christo829]

When I did mine, I tapped the triangular mounting flange slightly sideways with a drift punch. That broke the rust seal enough for it to start popping out.

I suspect what you're feeling as far as the cranking effort easing off is the axle shaft spindle being pushed back, as that's the path of least resistance. The axle shaft has nothing bracing it all the way back to the front differential once you take the nut off, and it's designed to flex, so you're just pushing it back through the hub but there's no leverage *on* the hub to make *it* pull forward.

You could also put the bolts back in just a bit and tap them to push the hub out, but be cautious not to damage the bolt threads themselves. You don't need to worry about the hub threads since you're replacing it,obviously. If you do that, check the bolt fit in the new hub before installing, in case the bolt did get deformed.

You can also put a drift behind the hub bolt flange from where the caliper mounts and give it a whack, turn the hub, hit it again, turn it, etc...

Good Luck!

Chris

 

[TollKeeper]

You cant use a Hub Puller on this setup. I have always just done what @christo829 said, and used a hammer, and start hitting the hub face from the back side until it breaks loose. Judging by the rust I see around the Flange hub face, I would say its going to take some effort. Dont forget to clean the spindle face when you do finally get it out.

 

[christo829]

Dont forget to clean the spindle face when you do finally get it out.

^^This...definitely! I forgot to do mine initially because I was in a rush, and had to take it all back apart. Before I cleaned it, it seemed like it cranked down OK, but I had a slight wobble/rub going on that I hadn't had before. Took it back apart and cleaned the spindle face, and all better!

Cheers-

Chris

 

[Dshow]

Thanks for the replies...
I finally got it. I used an angle grinder to put a notch in the hub, just large enough to put a chisel in and gave is several wacks, until the rust broke free... (The new hub fixed my ABS issue.)

Tell me more about your rubbing issue... The first time I worked on the ABS issue, I removed the sensor, cleaned everything (noticed the rust) and put it all back together. Still had the ABS issue. I used the same old rusty brake pads and hardware and had a noticeable rubbing noise (like the pads rubbing the rotor) Since I want to keep this car for a while, I decided to replace the hub. I put on new pad and hardware, but I kept the old rotor. I noticed I still had some rubbing sound as I drove. I will do the driver side tomorrow and listen for the rubbing... I was going to replace the rotors if I still had rubbing sounds... Now I will double check that.

 

[TollKeeper]

Is it like a metal rubbing sound, or something else?

Could be the dust shield got bent, and just needs to be flattened out.
Could be something rubbing on the CV axle, or the hub. Usually not good, cause this is likely to be a brake line, or ABS line.
Axle output bearing is another possibility, where the CV axle connects to the axle, the bearings hardly ever fail, but they do upon occasion.
Dont forget to check your front differential fluid level.

 

[gmcman]

Just a fyi, you should replace both hubs at the same time.

Like others stated, once the 3 bolts are loose, a couple whacks from a hammer from the back should pop it out.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

At the risk of hijacking the thread... a quick question.... There is an O-Ring behind the hub assembly. Is everyone replacing/reinstalling it or skipping it? I skipped it on both sides this time.

 

[TollKeeper]

The hubs I buy come with the sealing ring already installed. This is what prevents moisture from getting in, and eating/rusting out the tone ring for the ABS, and possible moisture intrusion into the bearings themselves.

 

[Mooseman]

Good idea on grinding a groove and using a chisel. Just clean out the hole in the knuckle and put anti-seize where the hub mates to it to prevent it from rust welding again.

 

[TollKeeper]

Agreed.. I would also grab a wire wheel, and clean off the heat/dust shields, and spray paint.

 

[christo829]

My rubbing issue was a combination of the dust shield being a little bent (from me being ham-handed), and the slight wobble from the hub before I cleaned it. It was a very light sound that I only heard on turning, so I couldn't duplicate it when I had the truck up on stands. I think it was the dust shield lightly touching the edge of the rotor, as that was the only place I could see that seemed to be in close enough proximity to potentially touch. When I took it all back apart to clean the spindle face, I set the dust shield down on a fairly flat surface and noticed it was a bit deformed. Flattened it out, and between that and the spindle face cleaning the rub and wobble went away.

Cheers-

Chris (Hm...I sent this earlier, but it's still sitting waiting to be posted...some days I get annoyed with technology...)

 

[TequilaWarrior]

The hubs I buy come with the sealing ring already installed. This is what prevents moisture from getting in, and eating/rusting out the tone ring for the ABS, and possible moisture intrusion into the bearings themselves.

Something doesn't sound right... the O-Ring I'm referring to seems to sit in the chamfer on the steering knuckle, between the knuckle and the hub. It didn't seem to "seal" anything when it came out. The hubs I'm getting don't have this O-ring in the box and the hubs seem to be a sealed unit. I didn't replace or reinstall the O-ring because it didn't seem to serve any purpose.

 

[Mooseman]

I think the original hubs had seals, replacements do not. Mostly useless in the environment the live in as water will get in from the back side.

 

[TequilaWarrior]

I think the original hubs had seals, replacements do not. Mostly useless in the environment the live in as water will get in from the back side.

That makes some sense as I can't find it on any parts diagrams either. </end thread hijack>

 

[JerryIrons]

Just a fyi, you should replace both hubs at the same time.

Why is that? I was under the impression you only need to change the bad one. That being said, if they are both of similar miles it may not be long before the other one goes bad.

 

[Dshow]

I replaced the hub on the driver side today. Took it for a quick spin and still heard the noise. I friend was over so I drove slow by him so he could tell where the sound was coming from. When I stopped, he said the sound was coming from the rear! Pulled the rear wheel off and there was essentially no pad left and the rotor was pretty thin as well... (I have never replaced the rear pads...) Anyway, tomorrow's job is new rear rotor and pads... (1 step forward... 2 steps back.)

 

[Matt]

Why is that? I was under the impression you only need to change the bad one. That being said, if they are both of similar miles it may not be long before the other one goes bad.

Because they're cheap enough to do in pairs and like you said, it won't be long before the other side goes.