No matter where I put the temperature control, the passenger side is always blowing warm air. The heat-vent-defrost control works fine. How do I replace the offending actuator?
NEED HELP Warm Air Only on Passenger Side
- Thread starter JimInRadfordVA
- Start date
Matt
Member
- Dec 2, 2011
- 4,023
It's in the radio stack on the passengers side, but you access it by taking out the glove box. I hate using TV as a reference but this is a good pic of where you're looking.
Mooseman
Moderator
aaserv
Member
Yup. Pulled fuses 36 and 39 for a few minutes. Reinstalled them, then put the ignition to “run” (not start) for two minutes. Listened to the actuators cycle. Started it up. No change.
Mooseman
Moderator
Update.
Part came in and I undertook replacement this morning. A few observations:
1. Getting the glove box out was pretty straightforward. Didn’t need to remove it—just had to release the spring latch and let it drop down, scattering its contents onto the floor mat and under the seat. Removing the surround trim was easy, but why did they hide an extra screw up underneath?
2. The actuator is right there, to the left of the opening. As expected, access to the left side screw was blocked by a large bracket. After researching for some “best practices “for this repair, it seems that “cut the bracket out with a Dremel” is the way to go.
3. How the hell you can get to the bracket with a Dremel eludes me. I have a flex shaft for it and I couldn’t get in the right position to make the cut. I enlisted the aid of my neighbor —a petite sideshow contortionist— and after a half hour she gave up.
4. Grabbed a hacksaw blade and, taking short strokes, I managed to cut the bracket out. Pro Tip— it’s cheaper and less painful to wrap part of the hacksaw blade that you grasp with duct tape, rather than bandaging your palm afterward. Ask me how I know.
5. Once the bracket is out, it was easy to remove the two screws holding the actuator in, pull it off the shaft and unplug the connector.
6. New part went right back in. I spent more time cursing and fishing for dropped screws than I spent actually attaching it.
7. Glove box reassembled just fine. Took a few minutes to throw out unneeded odds and ends before I stuffed the rest of the stuff back in. Do I get extra points for actually having gloves in the glove box?
8. Pulled fuses 36 and 39 to let the HVAC memory clear while I put tools away and changed bandages.
9. Inserted key and turned to “Run” and let the actuators cycle and relearn their positions. Sounded like the blend door joined in too. I’ll know how successful the repair was next time I drive it and the heat comes up.
All in all it was definitely worth it to do the repair myself. I shudder to think what the labor charge at my favorite shop would have been. Does anyone know the labor op number for this repair and how many hours it pays? My guess is “not enough”. Also does the factory repair manual direct you to cut the bracket or is there $600 Kent-Moore special tool that allows you to remove the actuator through the defroster vent?
At one point during the process I was planning on writing a simplified repair instruction: 1.Empty glove box and remove trim. 2. Pull vehicle out of service bay. 3. Pull replacement vehicle into service bay. 4. Reinstall glove box trim and transfer contents.
Thanks for your continued support and advice. You’re what makes this site what it is.
Part came in and I undertook replacement this morning. A few observations:
1. Getting the glove box out was pretty straightforward. Didn’t need to remove it—just had to release the spring latch and let it drop down, scattering its contents onto the floor mat and under the seat. Removing the surround trim was easy, but why did they hide an extra screw up underneath?
2. The actuator is right there, to the left of the opening. As expected, access to the left side screw was blocked by a large bracket. After researching for some “best practices “for this repair, it seems that “cut the bracket out with a Dremel” is the way to go.
3. How the hell you can get to the bracket with a Dremel eludes me. I have a flex shaft for it and I couldn’t get in the right position to make the cut. I enlisted the aid of my neighbor —a petite sideshow contortionist— and after a half hour she gave up.
4. Grabbed a hacksaw blade and, taking short strokes, I managed to cut the bracket out. Pro Tip— it’s cheaper and less painful to wrap part of the hacksaw blade that you grasp with duct tape, rather than bandaging your palm afterward. Ask me how I know.
5. Once the bracket is out, it was easy to remove the two screws holding the actuator in, pull it off the shaft and unplug the connector.
6. New part went right back in. I spent more time cursing and fishing for dropped screws than I spent actually attaching it.
7. Glove box reassembled just fine. Took a few minutes to throw out unneeded odds and ends before I stuffed the rest of the stuff back in. Do I get extra points for actually having gloves in the glove box?
8. Pulled fuses 36 and 39 to let the HVAC memory clear while I put tools away and changed bandages.
9. Inserted key and turned to “Run” and let the actuators cycle and relearn their positions. Sounded like the blend door joined in too. I’ll know how successful the repair was next time I drive it and the heat comes up.
All in all it was definitely worth it to do the repair myself. I shudder to think what the labor charge at my favorite shop would have been. Does anyone know the labor op number for this repair and how many hours it pays? My guess is “not enough”. Also does the factory repair manual direct you to cut the bracket or is there $600 Kent-Moore special tool that allows you to remove the actuator through the defroster vent?
At one point during the process I was planning on writing a simplified repair instruction: 1.Empty glove box and remove trim. 2. Pull vehicle out of service bay. 3. Pull replacement vehicle into service bay. 4. Reinstall glove box trim and transfer contents.
Thanks for your continued support and advice. You’re what makes this site what it is.
Mooseman
Moderator
If that’s the case, then my coinsurance and deductible for the doctor visit to get my hand stitched up still puts me dollars ahead!
