Video: How to remove head bolts without breaking

Mooseman

Original poster
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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Just happened upon this video. Makes a lot of sense using a socket instead of a punch probably sends more of the shock into the bolt and hitting it again after the initial crack would relieve any held up tension.


Added it to the FAQ too.
 

rchalmers3

Member
Jul 11, 2020
207
Irmo, SC
Thanks Mooseman, the concept of breaking loose these stretched out bolts does work, up to a point. I however, prefer to use a 1/2" brass punch for striking the top of the head bolt directly, vs passing the shock through a multi-piece removal tool. I still use the 2 lb hammer, but now the strike is passed solidly into the bolt threads. Here is an example of the punch I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSBBI/?tag=gmtnation-20

And it does need to be stated, this method helps with some, but not every bolt. Hit 'em hard and often, and be thankful for every one that threads out.

Rick
 
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mrrsm

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Agreed, Rick...

As you can see from the attached images, I used the method suggested by @Mooseman vs. the Thick Brass Punch Approach. And while some of the GM 4.2L LL8 Engine Head Cap Screws MAY have been relieved of the Tension just a bit... these photos will testify as to just how much Serious Framming Energy I was imparting using a Ball Peen Hammer on top of the H-10 Hex Socket fitted inside of those (14) Head Bolts. Check out the Mushroomed top of the Sacrificial1/2" Chrome Adapter I was using in order to protect the Parkerized, Impact Grade Hex Tool from shattering ...and judge for yourselves:

43433040601_60d0c474b4_c.jpg29562234178_80a7e9af31_c.jpg

But in the end... I experienced only partial success ...and discovered after removing the Engine Head completely that the Terrific Force and Vibrations sustained therein had dislodged many a substantial semi-circular ring of Impacted Carbon that had previously collected around the Valve Seats after running that Motor for over 240,000 Miles and finding them laying loose on the tops of the richly decorated Carbon-Coated Pistons just below:

42511257785_02b7856e7e_c(1).jpg42511258155_f7afdfe89e_c(1).jpg42528540165_dd12566370_c.jpg43433038521_e1ce186a15_c.jpg42716905844_8e54a34e17_c.jpg29562246228_c18ce2c580_c.jpg

During subsequent Engine Head Bolt Removals... I skipped the dramatic "Hammer Pounding" efforts entirely, knowing that most if not all of any Leftover Broken Bolt Shanks would Yield with Ease to either being Reverse-Drilled ...or just as well overtaken by using EZ-Outs gently applied to get them all unwound and removed from inside of the Engine Block.

Ultimately, even if some of the Tension gets relieved... the internal crystalline structural damage experienced inside of the Bolt Shanks from excessive stretching after the Factory Final Torque To Yield Procedures took place surpasses the ability of many of these Fasteners to resist violent breakage almost as soon as the Reversing Torque is being applied. Some will come out fairly easy... and some... Just Won't.

Just make Damned Sure to COMPLETELY REMOVE THE ENGINE HEAD before attempting ANY Broken Bolt Removal-Extraction Efforts.
 
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rchalmers3

Member
Jul 11, 2020
207
Irmo, SC
Following behind MMMRS, I thought I'd post a few images and say a few words about how I approach the bolts that do break. To those of you reading this: Good news! Extracting the broken bolt ends is easily performed and can be done safely without ruining the block. There is a tool set needed though. Read on for the details.

I broke most of the head bolts on my recent disassembly: 9 1/2 out of the fourteen bolts to be exact. In attempting removal, I would whack the bolt twice, followed by an attempt at loosening until I felt the stress building up in the bolt, then strike the bolt again, repeatedly. I gave the bolts that broke about 6 tries each to un-stretch and loosen. They just don't want to cooperate.

Here's the oddball bolt that both broke and came loose, making the 1/2 bolt statistic.IMG_0258.jpg
For the removal of broken bolts left remaining in the block, first clean out any residual oil from engine disassembly. A dry recess area will facilitate drill chip evacuation.
IMG_0305.jpg
From the company seen on the business card, get yourself this drill kit, with drop-in drill guides, a right hand drill, extractor and bottom tap (to be used for assembly prep). I have no affiliation, I represent the company by being a satisfied customer only.
IMG_0304.jpg
Fit the proper guide over the broken bolt, and drill down just deep enough for the extractor to bite, about 5-7 mm. Remove the guide and clear the chips. Fit the extractor into the drilled hole and give it a light tap to set the flutes. The really good news is that the bolts un-thread easily and do not require any effort to turn.

Rick
 
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mrrsm

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Very Nicely Done. Got the Link to Freedom's Web Page as you said, listed on the Biz-Card. Does your Kit list any Part Number?
 
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jimmymac9285

Member
Dec 6, 2020
1
Long Island
Hi all so I just went through the torture of removing the head bolts this week, i used the method in the video with minimal success. I was striking the bolts with a center punch and a 5 lb hammer it is rough no matter what . So what worked for removing the snapped bolts was a left handed drill bit, for all the stress of trying to not snap a bolt. I removed all seven snapped bolts in about 25 min. Harbor Freight sells the bits for 10 dollars, well worth the investment
SKU 61686
 

mrrsm

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In a Parallel Thread... I mentioned using that same OEM Kit when it was On Sale at eBay. By the way Rick.... The OP over there just came back to post again and could use some advice from you about this very same problem:

 

Mooseman

Original poster
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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Along the same theme, if the bolts do break, our friend Nivlac57 shows how easy it actually is to remove them:

 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Using Blue Painter's Tape or Gray Duct Tape when applied over your Old Head Gasket and then laid back in place onto the Engine Block is your Very BF against Accidentally Dropping any Metal Drilling Dross, Motor Oil, Cleaning Solvent Materials, Bottle Caps, Cigar Ash ...or any other Noxious Bad Habit particulates into places where they ought NOT be...

...and might never get removed once they fall within
... :>)

43477134291_48eb755f54_c.jpg43477133421_932248a110_c.jpg43477134201_91a5d7bdb8_c.jpg43477134131_52b35403ba_c.jpg
 

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