Video: Broken S105 wiper motor ground splice

[Elizabetty]

Basically, I have a lot of resistance when I have the ground from the hood lamp/wiper motor connected to g105 and I found what appears to be a break in the s105 splice for the two. From the looks of the wiring and how they come out to the end, I'm thinking it's not the hood lamp wire or the wire for the wiper motor. I think the broken wire is the ground. I'm guessing the wiper motor and the hood lamp come together in s105 and then somewhere in there the ground to g105 breaks and that's what the bulge is and that's why I have no continuity. When flexing around what appears to be a broken wire in the splice, I am able to affect how much resistance I have when that ground is attached to g105. I can flex it and have it eventually say OL and I can flex it and have it show high resistance and I can smush it as straight as I can get it and I have no resistance.

I don't have the proper tools to get to the wiper motor itself but from the obvious bulge in s105 and the function of the wipers not being a problem, I'm thinking I don't really need to get to the motor right now and I need to solve the grounding issue for it.

 

[mrrsm]

Because this is very much like trying to "Find a Snake on The Head of The Medusa", it will help to know WHICH Wiring Harness Bundle you have "Burgled" by checking on WHERE the thing ends in Connectors at its extremity.

Also... To avoid a "Forest for the Tree" sort of problem... Try taking and posting up some Still Shots with an eye towards what A. HItchcock **** used to call "Staging The Shot and INFORMING The Audience"...working your way from a Wider View... inwards... finally hovering over that Black and Orange "Thingy". Such images can be very helpful in narrowing down the problem.

Oh... and regarding the "OL" image on your DMM:

What Does OL Mean On A Multimeter - Mystery Solved

In this blog post we explain what does ol mean on a multimeter and why that shows in some situation like testing continuity or resistance.

electrouniversity.com

**** Check Out "The 39 Steps" to get a Bird's Eye View of Hitchcock's earliest work in this technique:

Steps 39: A Alfred Hitchcock Old Time Movie : WDEE 986 : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

Steps 39: A Alfred Hitchcock Old Time Movie

archive.org

 

[Elizabetty]

I was not able to find much information on this little splice area but since temporarily pinching it flat and straight, I no longer have the hot smell in that bundle or odd readings on multimeter. I'm guessing something in that splice needs to be redone but I will have to get to that much further down the line when I have more time.

 

[mrrsm]

Since you are constantly trying to improve and broaden your base of knowledge on "Everything Automotive"... it is worth mentioning that whenever any Electrical Circuit encounters any Resistance along the Copper Wiring, the Voltage will always DROP and the Energy that would ordinarily allow the reasonable flow of Current gets converted into HEAT via a principle called PTC or "Positive Thermal Coefficient" in Plain English.

Having a decent, inexpensive FLIR Camera will spot these issues like Parasitic Draws or Lift Gate Modules and Radios NOT 'going to sleep' as well in automotive electrical circuits (and even behind plastic panels and fascia) with ease.

Once you find and obtain a Quality, Affordable Version ... it will greatly enhance your ability to "Look Under The Hood" and actually SEE things you have never been able to recognize before and eliminate any Guess Work about "What's HOT?" and "What's NOT?".

Here are some examples:

Oh... and FINDING One for Only $99.00 is covered RIGHT NOW... RIGHT HERE:

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gmtnation.com