Vehicle Went Dark During Crank, Refuse to Jump Start, Key Stuck in Ignition

[Zaab]

So this just happened.

I just added new fluid in my power steering and ready to drive around to mix it in. Put the key in, turn to on, and turn to crank. Vehicle cranked for a sec, then I heard clicking, then the whole car went dark. I turn the key back and realize it's been locked in ignition. I turned it on and off tried to free it until the ignition switch locked my key to off position.

OK, maybe the battery finally quit, but I still have my jump starter. I pulled it out and connect to positive side and negative side of the battery. Jumper starter showed 'ready' with 14.4v. However, the car is still in dark and ignition switch remain locked even with external power. That's strange, I jumped out and fiddle with the positive cable. The car suddenly gave out a loud honk, I now have interior light with a battery light on dash. Hook up the jump starter and try again, but ignition switch still locked and don't let me pull key out.

What the hell just happened? Am I blowed a fuse, or our GMT360 will not recognize jump starter and require a disconnect to reset?
Any help is needed!

 

[Zaab]

Anyone?

 

[Mooseman]

Clean and tighten your battery connections. It's a classic loss of power when the key is stuck in the ignition. It's normal for the horn to honk when power is reconnected.

Anyone?

This is not a 24/7 support line. We're just enthusiasts helping each other out. Don't expect a response 10 minutes after your initial post.

 

[Zaab]

Clean and tighten your battery connections. It's a classic loss of power when the key is stuck in the ignition. It's normal for the horn to honk when power is reconnected.


This is not a 24/7 support line. We're just enthusiasts helping each other out. Don't expect a response 10 minutes after your initial post.

I apologize Mooseman, it's kinda getting into my head last night. Thank you for your input!

 

[TollKeeper]

I would also inspect the Mega-Fuse

 

[Zaab]

Update, fuse is good, I tried jump start again with negative on remote ground plate as the manual instructed. This time I was able to get a good enough voltage to activate my ignition cylindar and pull key out. But when cranking, my jumper starter is not to the job.
Now get a new battery and ready to install.

@Mooseman Thanks for the suport.

 

[Zaab]

Got the new battery in, made by east penn with three years warranty, should be a good, flooded battey. The old girl sounds much happier, no bouncy voltage gauge, no flickering lights, even giving me an immediate mileage boost of 50 miles. The computer probably feels such a relief that alternator doesn't have to run 100% duty all the time.


Examine my old battery. Where did the pre-owned car lot find such a gem? It doesn't even have CCA rating on it and last about 6 months only. When your battery is second gen "Scrap Dog" I guess that's not a good omen. And I quickly learned to disconnect the horn before putting negative terminal on, if I don't want to get noise complaint. LOL!
Anyway, the drama has ended. One more thing get crossed out on my recondition planning.

 

[Mooseman]

It's likely a used battery. Used isn't always bad as I have gotten some good ones, barely one or two years old with original stickers so able to determine build date. But that Scrap Dog I wouldn't buy as they peel all the stickers off and put their own so you can't determine maker and age. The car lot probably got it really cheap just to be able to get it off their lot.