Before
After
My time over the summer was very limited but I managed to make some much needed changes under the hood. I posted pics here and there in the what did you do thread and now here they all are in one place.
The first pic was taken in 09. In between that pic and more recently, the battery cover was removed and a red top was used as the underhood battery. I don't have any good pics of that but those were the only things that changed. The batteries were creeping up on 5 years in service, so they needed to be replaced. I had mismatched knu/welding/stinger/kicker wire, broken fuseholder (with a ziptie holding one of them together), and with every underhood add on that was wired in over time, the wiring was a mess.
I built this fuse/relay panel after I had a problem with an HID relay harness. All of the add ons like HIDs and underhood lights are tied into here. The benefit of doing this is that the next time I have an issue, the diagnosis should be a lot easier. For power, I used the fuse box stud that the mystery red wire is meant to go on. Also, the battery fresh air vent tube is routed down and away from the panel.
Another issue I had was connecting test equipment to the battery terminals. I used the dual top 555 ibars for the d3400. This gives me a dedicated positive and negative post when needed. The battery tray and battery brace had to be modified for clearance.
The alt was replaced with a mechman unit. I used the EXT shortie belt (90 7/8" IIRC) to work with the smaller pulley. No slippage under load.
I've got about 3K/3months on the alt, so far so good.
I also refreshed the wiring. Well, ripped it all out and redid it with one brand is more like it. After BlackLT showed me a cut open crimp and I saw how the wire/terminal was fused, I was sold. I got one of these crimp tools. Side note, there's my proof that SHCA 1/0 wire is bigger then AWG 1/0 lol.
I used adhesive lined shrink tubing. This particular brand is so thick that I have to go back and mod the fuse covers a little so they will snap on. Or I could just use a ziptie.
All in all I like the way that this turned out. I gained a little bit of functionality and it looks a lot better.
After
My time over the summer was very limited but I managed to make some much needed changes under the hood. I posted pics here and there in the what did you do thread and now here they all are in one place.
The first pic was taken in 09. In between that pic and more recently, the battery cover was removed and a red top was used as the underhood battery. I don't have any good pics of that but those were the only things that changed. The batteries were creeping up on 5 years in service, so they needed to be replaced. I had mismatched knu/welding/stinger/kicker wire, broken fuseholder (with a ziptie holding one of them together), and with every underhood add on that was wired in over time, the wiring was a mess.
I built this fuse/relay panel after I had a problem with an HID relay harness. All of the add ons like HIDs and underhood lights are tied into here. The benefit of doing this is that the next time I have an issue, the diagnosis should be a lot easier. For power, I used the fuse box stud that the mystery red wire is meant to go on. Also, the battery fresh air vent tube is routed down and away from the panel.
Another issue I had was connecting test equipment to the battery terminals. I used the dual top 555 ibars for the d3400. This gives me a dedicated positive and negative post when needed. The battery tray and battery brace had to be modified for clearance.
The alt was replaced with a mechman unit. I used the EXT shortie belt (90 7/8" IIRC) to work with the smaller pulley. No slippage under load.
I've got about 3K/3months on the alt, so far so good.
I also refreshed the wiring. Well, ripped it all out and redid it with one brand is more like it. After BlackLT showed me a cut open crimp and I saw how the wire/terminal was fused, I was sold. I got one of these crimp tools. Side note, there's my proof that SHCA 1/0 wire is bigger then AWG 1/0 lol.
I used adhesive lined shrink tubing. This particular brand is so thick that I have to go back and mod the fuse covers a little so they will snap on. Or I could just use a ziptie.
All in all I like the way that this turned out. I gained a little bit of functionality and it looks a lot better.
