I'm working on cleaning up my '06 Envoy SLT. Part of the under hood cleanup involves returning it to look like it came from the factory. I've repainted or replaced brackets, and other things that were rusted or just messed up.
My two biggest hold ups now are the emissions decals on the air box and the one on the battery. Please see pic.
My decals are gone. There's a company that will recreate new ones for you, but you have to send in your old ones. Uh yea, I have a computer and a printer. I can recreate them myself thank you, but I don't know what they look like or I would. I could download some that look similar and copy those but I want them to be correct and have the correct info on them if its possible. Does anyone know where I can get new ones or at least see a photo of one for my vehicle so I can create them myself?
These are the three I am mainly concerned with finding.
That AC pipe that runs along the top front of the engine on mine is not coated in black. Its shiny and now its REALLY shiny like chrome since I polished it.
In order to make this cleanup really look like the car is new is to cleanup the overflow tank, master cylinder reservoir and WW fluid tank not that important). I've watched some You tube videos on how to clean them "Like New" they claim but the videos are lame. There's nothing really unique that they use or do to get them cleaned up and they are far from new looking. I can come up with better solutions than those videos but still not good enough to make them look that new crisp white color. I can buy a new Dorman tank for $40 I think and I will if I can't figure out how better to clean what I have. Does anyone have any ideas on how to clean them?
I'm going to try to replace all of the wire loom stuff. The clips that hold wires in place that have broken off, replacing the valve cover gaskets, I painted the pulleys and brackets, cleaned up any rusted nuts and bolts I could see and replaced any that were missing. I replaced all of the caps for the tanks and Valve cover etc.. so that the wording on them is readable and painted like new, Oh I also plated all of the door and trunk strikers with nickel.cobalt to prevent them from rusting. I had the plating kit for another project so that's how that idea came about. All of my latches and strikers etc were so ridiculously rusted man. Doors wouldn't latch or the hood. I painted the hood latch mechanisms as well. etc. I want this sucker looking showroom fresh!
Oh I also want to replace the under hood insulation that's on the underside of the hood itself. Some company should produce a line of those things and offer custom ones. Guys who show their rides at car shows etc would go crazy for something like that. I'd maybe make them from thin aluminum plate. OK I'm getting way off track here.
Thank you in advance!!!
My two biggest hold ups now are the emissions decals on the air box and the one on the battery. Please see pic.
My decals are gone. There's a company that will recreate new ones for you, but you have to send in your old ones. Uh yea, I have a computer and a printer. I can recreate them myself thank you, but I don't know what they look like or I would. I could download some that look similar and copy those but I want them to be correct and have the correct info on them if its possible. Does anyone know where I can get new ones or at least see a photo of one for my vehicle so I can create them myself?
These are the three I am mainly concerned with finding.
That AC pipe that runs along the top front of the engine on mine is not coated in black. Its shiny and now its REALLY shiny like chrome since I polished it.
In order to make this cleanup really look like the car is new is to cleanup the overflow tank, master cylinder reservoir and WW fluid tank not that important). I've watched some You tube videos on how to clean them "Like New" they claim but the videos are lame. There's nothing really unique that they use or do to get them cleaned up and they are far from new looking. I can come up with better solutions than those videos but still not good enough to make them look that new crisp white color. I can buy a new Dorman tank for $40 I think and I will if I can't figure out how better to clean what I have. Does anyone have any ideas on how to clean them?
I'm going to try to replace all of the wire loom stuff. The clips that hold wires in place that have broken off, replacing the valve cover gaskets, I painted the pulleys and brackets, cleaned up any rusted nuts and bolts I could see and replaced any that were missing. I replaced all of the caps for the tanks and Valve cover etc.. so that the wording on them is readable and painted like new, Oh I also plated all of the door and trunk strikers with nickel.cobalt to prevent them from rusting. I had the plating kit for another project so that's how that idea came about. All of my latches and strikers etc were so ridiculously rusted man. Doors wouldn't latch or the hood. I painted the hood latch mechanisms as well. etc. I want this sucker looking showroom fresh!
Oh I also want to replace the under hood insulation that's on the underside of the hood itself. Some company should produce a line of those things and offer custom ones. Guys who show their rides at car shows etc would go crazy for something like that. I'd maybe make them from thin aluminum plate. OK I'm getting way off track here.
Thank you in advance!!!
They didn't come with o-rings so I bought some that I thought would work. I am hoping that I was wrong and that the only reason its leaking. I wish I knew exactly which ones to buy that came with the o-rings that will mate up with the AN fittings that I used. I am hoping all AN-6 fittings are the same throughout for instance Russell's will work with XYZ brand no problem. I only need the two fittings that go into the radiator. I will start googling again. I'm embarrassed to say that I got overwhelmed looking at this stuff. I bought a set that had the braided line AN fittings etc, but it didn't have the o-rings or the right fittings for the radiator. So I went searching for just thee fittings and then another place to locate the correct o-rings.
