U-Joints & Drive Line Diagnostics: EVERYTHING "U" Ever Wanted to Know About Them...

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
This Seven Part Video Series from the Weber State University Department of Automotive Technology covers Everything you EVER wanted to know about Universal Joints and On The Vehicle - Hands On Drive-Line Vibration Problem Diagnostics, Measurements and Repairs… But were Afraid to Ask.

"Hell... It's just a "U" Joint Swap... Who needs Directions to Install them? What can possibly Go Wrong...?"

You'll be Surprised... As THESE Videos will reveal a Great Deal.

The series includes a comparison of Eight OEM vs. After-Market Companies including ACDelco, Moog and Autozone Duralast, etc... all involved with manufacturing these "U"nique, Highly Stressed Drive-Line Mechanical Components:

Part 1

Part 2:

Part 3:

Part 4:

Part 5:

Part 6:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyAJdInryj8&list=PL5zHWEeKMRpqNlfEbul_HQnFHSOwP7VjQ&index=6

Part 7:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10BhHuwnQ7I
 
Last edited:

TollKeeper

Well-Known Member
I do need to replace the U-Joints on the Voy. Like 90% of the truck, they are still OEM at 194k miles.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
It takes the length of the first video to swap a u-joint, but some do like to have a bunch of random info.

For anyone that has not done one on our platform, you do need a torch to melt out the factory one. Not a big deal.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Good info as I'm getting ready to replace them on my TB. However, I can't find the adapter for GM, at least not on Amazon. I might just bring it to a driveline shop but then my experiences with shops have not been good lately. I have done a lots of u-joints and may just chance it doing it myself.

Those videos are loooooooong. I had to speed them up to 2x. Only watched ep. 2, 4 and 5. Most of it probably can't be useful to DIYers since most don't have dial indicators.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
What adapter?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
The J9522-3 Spent-Moore. Instead of pushing on the cups, you push on the joint's trunion. I'm always afraid of distorting the yokes by pushing on the cups since they're sometimes in there real tight and rusty. I have done that once a long time ago and had to replace the drive shaft.
 
OP
OP
MRRSM

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
Even with having a "Clean" Bench and a Few Bench Vises on hand for this work... Trying to wrangle with Drive Shafts and perform R&R s of "U" Joints can be like trying to pick up a Hysterical 2 Year Old in the Supermarket having a Full-On Crying Temper Tantrum.

Before having to struggle with using a Bench Vise, “C” Clamps or even a Hammer and some “sized” Impact Sockets to drive the “U” Joint Cups out on multiple Drive Shafts … for $77.40 + FREE S&H over on eBay… THIS tool (or one similar to it, if the size of this one is either too large or too small) looks like it would Make Life EZR and be a better option than the Pricey" Spent-Moore" versions:

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&toolid=10001&campid=5338077216&icep_item=372843294231

UJOINTSEPTOOL1.jpgUJOINTSEPTOOL2.jpgUJOINTSEPTOOL3.jpgUJOINTSEPTOOL4.jpgUJOINTSEPTOOL5.jpgUJOINTSEPTOOL6.jpgUJOINTSEPTOOL7.jpg
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Saw that tool on Amazon and watched a video on its use however it has the same problem as using the C-clamp type tool where it could distort the yoke if a bearing cup is seized and may be even worse since it uses the yoke's structure as the C. And I think it's pretty spendy for what it is.
 

Online statistics

Members online
8
Guests online
226
Total visitors
234

Forum statistics

Threads
20,453
Messages
595,272
Unanswered questions
2
Answered questions
2
Members
13,557
Latest member
bullfrog1267
Top Bottom