Picked this 06 up yesterday for cheap..guy had a transmission fluid leak and didn't want to deal with it..i found the leak in the cooler lines they were rusted right on top near winsheild washer tank..gonna order lines tonight and finish taking out the rest tmrw..
transmission cooler lines
- Thread starter Uncleenvoy
- Start date
ughh i hate transmission lines... they were the worst.... power steering lines were 5x easier....
Well that first part wasnt too bad but i imagine getting them off and back on the transmisdion is gonna be a test in patience..
Thanks @coolasice ..took off the trans pan..really black and smells burnt..i hope theres no trans damage..went to take off the lines theres no way to get to it without taking off the exhaust to get the cat out the way..those 3 bolts attaching the manifold are impossible..after pb blast and propane torching one bolt snapped one stripped..took a cutter to the stripped on but batt died on tool midway..try again tmrw
Attachments
I was able to do mine without moving the exhaust. 4 ramps makes a world of difference. the extra 6 inches are a must. I could see exactly where my hand was that way.... all I needed to do was lower the trans crossbrace/trans and pull it to the drivers side with a ratchet strap... It's still a tight fit, but much more accessible that way.
@coolasice what vehicle did u do that on...cause on this 06 the cat is completely blocking that whole area and ive got it up on 4 jack stands 5 notches
Doesn't matter now anyway since ive already destroyed those exhaust manifold flange bolts gotta keep going
Mooseman
Moderator
I just went through this. It is a PITA job. You have to lower the rear of the tranny for extra room to get to the lines on the tranny. It might be different on the I6 but on my V8, I couldn't figure out how to thread the new ones in so I cut them right at the hump for the disconnect and used compression fittings. And I don't even have the disco or axle in neither. I didn't need to do anything to the exhaust but again, this is on a V8. I had the rear on ramps and the front jacked high on 6 ton non-HF stands. Lowering the trans was key to getting to the lines from the rear. You don't see much and mostly by feel.
And I had this tool from Lisle for the removal of the clips but it didn't work worth sh!t. I wound up using a pic as usual. Wasn't that bad, just had to watch to not lose the clips. Maybe one like this instead would work better.
And I had this tool from Lisle for the removal of the clips but it didn't work worth sh!t. I wound up using a pic as usual. Wasn't that bad, just had to watch to not lose the clips. Maybe one like this instead would work better.
Last edited:
6716
Member
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
It totally is a PITA. Personally I think it is easier to unscrew the threaded piece that threads into the transmission case than it is to mess with the clips upside down and cramped in there.
I got these back in without removing the cat but yeah if you can lower the transmission that makes it easier for sure.
I got these back in without removing the cat but yeah if you can lower the transmission that makes it easier for sure.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Total pita.
I did mine last fall, had the exhaust off at the time but lowering the tail of the trans helps.
I reached from the tailshaft and spent a couple hours getting the lines re-threaded into the trans but was worth it.
The hard part is figuring how to contort your body to reach to the fittings, while looking into a small mirror placed above the trans.....
Just use the correct tools, don't round off the line nut.
I did mine last fall, had the exhaust off at the time but lowering the tail of the trans helps.
I reached from the tailshaft and spent a couple hours getting the lines re-threaded into the trans but was worth it.
The hard part is figuring how to contort your body to reach to the fittings, while looking into a small mirror placed above the trans.....
Just use the correct tools, don't round off the line nut.
@coolasice @6716 @Mooseman @gmcman thanks for the feedback where did u guys get the new lines..ive checked "lines to go" there's look good how they split it up into 3 parts but i also saw some on ebay and autozone or advanced for half the price but they're the 2 piece ones and routing them back in looks real difficult..i had to bend and snap one of the old ones to get it out...working on the other one now
Mooseman
Moderator
Got mine from RA. ACDelco.
If I had the tool to make the push fitting ends, I would use Ni-Cop lines. Saw a video by SMA showing it on fuel lines. The cost of pre-bent lines isn't bad, it's figuring out how to snake them through that's a bitch. After an hour or so, I gave up and just cut them.
If I had the tool to make the push fitting ends, I would use Ni-Cop lines. Saw a video by SMA showing it on fuel lines. The cost of pre-bent lines isn't bad, it's figuring out how to snake them through that's a bitch. After an hour or so, I gave up and just cut them.
got them both out..the third bolt on manifold snapped..so glad i didnt have to cut it..saw replacent bokts at advanced for cheap so thats a relief..how to get those old bolts out is the next problem..another problem i have is i couldnt get to the clip for the 02 sensor so figured ill cut it and replace but the damn nut stripped..and thats with using the rented 02 sensor socket, pb blast and propane torch.tried searching for any suggestions on here about it but too much returns with 02 sensor in it..anyone know of a thread that can help
Attachments
Mooseman
Moderator
Try using a 22mm deep socket. It's a little tighter than the 7/8 sensor socket. Use as much heat from the torch as you can on the manifold around it. I think MAPP gas burns hotter.
I replaced my transmission oil lines back in 2016 and since I was limited to one set of jack stands I did what Mooseman did - cut the lines off near the transmission and used compression fittings. Zero leaks as of today. Also, the Lisle 22930 3/8 low profile disconnect tool is the way to go! I've used mine several times on my other GM vehicles.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
When I change my 02 sensor, I'll hit the O2 threads with PB the night before, then when changing the sensor, let the motor run for about 2-3 min, get the exhaust manifold hot then hit the threads one more time with PB blaster and using this socket.
I agree MAPP may be the better choice since you cannot start the motor now, that manifold will suck the heat from a propane flame. Propane might work, better than nothing.
I agree MAPP may be the better choice since you cannot start the motor now, that manifold will suck the heat from a propane flame. Propane might work, better than nothing.
my go to method is... hit the item with a lot of heat (ie. torch), while the tool / wrench / socket is put in the freezer. Once cold, place the wrench / socket on the "hot item"... the thermal shock easily breaks the item free with a turn of the wrench / socket.
6716
Member
- Jul 24, 2012
- 821
For both 02 sensors I used PB Blaster, a torch and air-powered impact tools. The manifold sensor was pretty well stuck in there. I just kind of kept at it even after it seemed like it was never going to come out of there. It finally did. I also clipped off the harness. I think it took more patience than anything else.
The 22mm socket did the job on the 02 sensor..the new struggle is how to get those 3 broken exhaust manifold bolts out...might have to remove the exhaust manifold and pray none of those bolts snap off in the block during removal..ive got 3 days to figure it out new trans lines should be here by Wednesday
Attachments
Saw this video but i doubt ill have enough room or even if the bolts can take a nut.ill give it a shot
Mooseman
Moderator
That stuff on the magnet? That looks normal to me. As long as there aren't any metal chunks or shavings and just this black sludge, it's fine.
Mooseman
Moderator
I put everthing back together yesterday took it for a drive today but
-no reverse (goes into gear but wont move. backwards or foward)
-drives forward when in Neutral but wont go into 2nd gear
-goes foward in Drive but wont go into 3rd gear
-no reverse (goes into gear but wont move. backwards or foward)
-drives forward when in Neutral but wont go into 2nd gear
-goes foward in Drive but wont go into 3rd gear
Mooseman
Moderator
I just have a basic autel..guess ill get that torque...fluid levels should be good i put in 4 gallons new fluid and flushed out about 2.5 maybe and added 1 1/4
Also abs and brake lights are on dash. .checked abs with multimeter on the wire going to pcm got 8.73 ohms with key off and 000.0 with key on ..switched multimeter to volts connected abs sensor wire to wheel connection spun the tire and saw the voltage move accordingly..does abs serve as vss also...will that effecr transmission
Mooseman
Moderator
I have a feeling you will also get codes for the tranny. Sounds like an electrical or ground issue affecting the tranny and ABS.
I disconnected battery yesterday so all codes were cleared they were 3 codes 2 for camshaft crankshaft position and one for oxygen sensor I forgot the code numbers..oxygen sensor one was probably because I ran the engine to test for leaks after I did the cooler lines before I reconnected the exhaust mani and put in the new oxygen sensor.
@TJBaker57 i got the bafx plug today do i have to get the paid version of torque to get the TFP.? .downloaded the lite version to check it out
Not sure. I tried entering a 'user PID' in Torque Lite the other day and it wouldn't use it. And it was one of the standard 'legislated diagnostics' even! Makes me doubt the functionality of the user pids in the lite version.
Anyway, the PID will not be in either the free or paid app, you most likely can only get that PID right here on this website...
More PIDs for Torque App
A short time ago I posted a new pid I discovered for the Fan Speed of a 4.2 in a 2002 Trailblazer. It was properly suggested by MRRSM that I repost that information here so here I am. It is possible that this is my first original post! I have been spending a great deal of time fiddling with...
gmtnation.com