Transmission Cooler line failed

[EyeAmRed2U]

2004 Buick Rainier with 68,000 miles. Tranny Cooler line looks like it rotted and exploded. Fluid everywhere, What a mess. I will replace the line, but should I go ahead and just flush the system and change out the filter? The car is just a daily driver, never towed anything, but figure why not just do it. Any advice before I start this job is always appreciated.

thanks,

Ken

 

[Sparky]

I'd replace all 4 line sections with new while you're at it. The miles are high enough I'd drain the pan, change the filter, and refill. Probably not necessary to do a whole flush. I'm wary of what "flush" means since some "flushes" are not good depending on how they're done.

 

[glfredrick]

I lost the transmission on my Trailblazer when that happened. Didn't know until it started slipping...

Simple fill and filter change will be sufficient unless you want to flush. You can do that at home by disconnecting the cooler line and pouring in new fluid as it pumps out the line until it runs red. That way the transmission pump does its own flushing. Count on using about double the normal fill amount to get that sort of flush done. No other real reason to flush except that it is good to renew the fluid on a regular basis instead of waiting until it is all burned up and the transmission toasted before changing (like most folks seem to do...).

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

Mostly agree with glfredrick. This would be a costly way to do it.

Check out this link to drain the tranny using the gerotor pump and then refill. You will need about 13-14 qts to do it this way.

http://forums.trailvoy.com/articles.php?do=viewarticle&artid=88

Having watched this i would recommend dropping the pan and replacing the filter. While the pan is off install a drain (so much cleaner the next time). This not a FLUSH this a CHANGE.

Some folks don't like running the pump dry but I haven't had any issues doing this. The last time i changed the filter and about 5 qt of fluid this will be good until the next time then it will be 5 qt and a new filter.

This is not hard you just need about 2-3 hrs.

Good luck

 

[Sparky]

Well technically you're not running the pump totally dry. As soon as it sputters a bit you shut it down so it never really runs dry.

That's how I did mine. 200k miles still fine, so I don't think I hurt it

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

Well technically you're not running the pump totally dry. As soon as it sputters a bit you shut it down so it never really runs dry.

That's how I did mine. 200k miles still fine, so I don't think I hurt it

I agree he just said it better.

 

[EyeAmRed2U]

Thanks so Much. Always great advice. It was just weird how the supply cooler line was just rotted and the return line looks like new. But I will change them all out. What does a slippage feel like? Would I see the RPM's go high and low when it slips? Will it Throw out a code?

Ken

 

[EyeAmRed2U]

Sorry, one more questions. RedEnvoyDenali mentioned adding a drain to the pan. Just buy a drain plug and add it to pan? Can you clarify what you meant?

 

[glfredrick]

Drain plugs can be added to any transmission pan by drilling a 1/2" hole then inserting a drain plug kit. There are tons of different ones on the market but all are similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/80250-Automatic-Transmission-Universal-Drain/dp/B00029WR78/ref=pd_sbs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GWJA5NJDZKCPQX24N5S

Make sure you do a bit of pre-instalation inspection to make sure that there is clearance for the part of the drain kit that sits inside the pan to not hit a valve body component. There is always room somewhere... Just look to see a spot with no clearance issues.

 

[sarg]

If you want you can also run AN lines. There are adapters that you can get an run stainless steel braid line or synthetic rubber lines. This is the way I did it on my Mustang Race car with the L33 and 4L80E transmission. Just thought I would mention it. -6 line should be fine.