Tranny line fun!! (Phrasing..) Also a tie rod issue?

[RayGumm]

I know, I know, I only pop up here anymore when I have problems.. But hey that's what forums are for, right?

JIC my profile info isn't there or whatever I have a 2006 trailblazer LS W/4.2L I6 and 4L60-E trans, and (apparently this matters to the issue at hand) dual climate control with manual controls.

So when approaching my vehicle in the garage Friday afternoon, I noticed some fresh oil puddles underneath the engine bay on the concrete. Cursory examination revealed that the fluid on the pavement is red and most likely trans fluid. Underneath the car is a veritable bloodbath of transmission fluid. When checking under the hood, I found that one of the lines is soaked with fluid and the other is bone dry. They are running so close to each other that if something else was dripped on them, they'd both be wet. That's why I'm thinking the line that's wet is leaking. See pic.



Also the bloodbath under the car:



At any rate, I've got a local AAMCO quoting me only $325 for the line replacement, parts AND labor, including the little bit they'll need to top it off. I think this is a great deal considering all other local shops are quoting $500+. I would just tackle this myself, but I have no lift or access to a lift, so that sorta nixes that plan. I've been told it's possible to do trans lines in this platform with jackstands, but without a mechanic friend to help me, I think I'm just gonna go the AAMCO route.

I suppose this post is simply to pick people's brains on whether or not it's worth it to attempt this fix myself or would it be better to go to the shop?

CONVINCE ME PEOPLE!!

The ride home from work after I discovered it leaking was fun. One eye on the rear view looking for smoke, the other eye on my Torque app monitoring trans temp, and my third eye keeping tabs on engine pull feel to see if anything was slipping. Trans fluid was only about 5oz low and I topped it off before driving. Didn't lose any on the drive home that I can determine, but has lost another 5 oz or so sitting in my driveway since. Hopefully it'll make it to the damn shop without blowing out completely and pumping all the fluid directly into my exhaust. That would be bad. Bad bad mojo indeed.

So I can make a different post if necessary but while poking around underneath the vehicle I also spotted this:



I'm thinking this is inner tie rod carnage. Can anyone confirm or refute this? Passenger side. Also what is entailed in replacing one of the inner tie rod ends? PITA? Easy? Help!

Thanks guys!

 

[MAY03LT]

I think you have what it takes to do it skill wise but it isn't a fun job even with a lift and tools. I can't find a labor op for line replacement so I can't say if the price is fair. I know a couple peeps who have done their own hopefully they will chime in.

 

[RayGumm]

I think you have what it takes to do it skill wise but it isn't a fun job even with a lift and tools. I can't find a labor op for line replacement so I can't say if the price is fair. I know a couple peeps who have done their own hopefully they will chime in.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I'm also kinda short on time and tools as well, so the shop will probably get it. I am gonna decline the 200 dollar 'flush (drain), filter and refill' and just do that myself soon when it's time to do the diffs and xfer case fluids. I think it's fairly fair price wise considering everyone else in the area is quoting $500+.
Hey May, how's that inner tie rod job? I also just remembered that with the wheel on the lock and while turning it had kind of a grinding popping noise that abated as soon as the wheel was off the lock. Probably related to that tie rod.

 

[{tpc}]

I can't comment on the inner tie rod, but as for the trans line, I will. When I added the factory trans cooler to my tahoe, it came with the replacement lines. I was able to do it on the driveway with only jackstands on the front I think....but this is a tahoe, so a bit different beast. Getting the one trans line out that I needed to remove wasn't so bad. I think I did that in about an hour (after I removed the front bumper and all that crap). Snaking the new trans line in was a major PITA. You have to have some serious rubiks cube type shit going on to get that sucker in. Snake it in this way twist it that way, turn it this way, all while trying to gently bend and move other shit out of the way without breaking it.

Then once you finally it all lined up you can snap it back into the trans and push on the clip and then the little plastic cpa thing. This is easily accomplished if you have hands the size of a 2 year old and x-ray vision, because you can't actually see where your putting it. The best part is when you go to put the clip back on and it slips and bounces into no mans land...thankfully this only happened once, and because the first trans line was so bent (shipping or constructed badly) they sent me a new kit, so I had extras to work with.

I'm still a bit raw about the experience. I would say putting the new line in took me the better part of 5 hours.

Now the kit with the lines was less than $100. But lets say they charge you $100 for the line. Thats $225 for labor, I don't know what labor costs nowadays but it doesn't seem overly excessive to me. But then again I know how I felt when I spent an entire day cursing at the truck and cutting up my hands, and I'd pay $200 to avoid it now that I know.

However, as for convincing, if "I" can do it, I'm sure you can do it. My hands typically spend their time soldering tiny components on boards, not trans stuff on trucks..but hey, I did it! Its probably gonna be a bitch without a lift, and I'm not sure how I'd feel with the whole thing up on jackstands while I was under it. Maybe there is room if you just jack up the front though. I know there was on the tahoe.

I'd just make sure they are replacing the line and not just cutting off the end and splicing something in or something like that. That might be why they can come in lower than every other place...

 

[RayGumm]

I'd just make sure they are replacing the line and not just cutting off the end and splicing something in or something like that. That might be why they can come in lower than every other place...

Ahh, yes. Good call. I mean it is AAMCO so I want to believe they are on the up n up, but ya never know...

Sounds like it's worth the $325 to have them do it. Seems like new lines are only about $50 if I get them off rock auto, so the extra $275 definitely seems worth the hassle you went through. My hands are even less adept than yours, I'm just a chef! I have to see everything I touch for it to be perfect.. Ha!

 

[{tpc}]

You should make them a meal then and see if you get get some more $$ off the job! just tell them they can eat AFTER they do it! Hehe.

 

[meerschm]

I used a lift, and purchased a set of

Jiffy tight connector tools

Lisle 22710 if you want to look them up,

you can use a pick to operate the clip on the lines, but it can be a bit tricky

I had access to a lift, and the first time, ended up giving up and coming back a couple weeks later (mine were not leaking yet)

ended up dropping a transmission support a bit for extra room. the manual said to disconnect the exhaust, but I did not do that.

with the loss of fluid, you may want a pan drop, change the filter and fluid, due at 100k anyway, I think

I have some photos somewhere if you are interested.

the tie rod is in those photos. you should be able to yank on it and if it wiggles around, it could be worn.

I would be more worried about the rack with that rubber off.

if the inner joint is tight, might want to hose out any gravel and dirt, and perhaps shoot some kind of lube on the rack, then seal that rubber back on with a couple big zip ties.

 

[RayGumm]

the tie rod is in those photos. you should be able to yank on it and if it wiggles around, it could be worn.

I would be more worried about the rack with that rubber off.

if the inner joint is tight, might want to hose out any gravel and dirt, and perhaps shoot some kind of lube on the rack, then seal that rubber back on with a couple big zip ties.

Cool, thanks for the info. What indication would I have of the rack having problems?

Also I am dropping the truck at AAMCO in the morning.

 

[Mooseman]

They usually fail by leaking power steering fluid. If it's working fine and not leaking, a new inner tie rod and boot will do it. Should check that the rack itself (the part that the inner tie rod screws onto) didn't get rusted or pitted otherwise it will eventually leak by destroying the seal.

 

[Wishbone]

I purchased the new trans lines a couple months ago and attempted the work myself. Fail... I paid a local shop $310 for labor only. Go have AAMCO do it, and move on.

 

[RayGumm]

I purchased the new trans lines a couple months ago and attempted the work myself. Fail... I paid a local shop $310 for labor only. Go have AAMCO do it, and move on.

10-4 good buddy.