TPMS Sensor Relearn / Matching

dmanns67

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
I recently installed new wheels and tires with TPMS sensors. They would not communicate with my system, so the error message "Service Tire Monitor" would flash on the dash. There are a couple of options. You can take the vehicle to a dealership/tire shop and pay for them to use their TPMS diagnostic tool to do the relearn/matching or you can follow the instructions below and DIY.

Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors or rotate the vehicle's tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver's side front tire, passenger's side front tire, passenger's side rear tire, and driver's side rear tire. Could not find a thread on this process, but figured it could benefit other owners with TPMS sensors.

1. Set the parking brake.

2. Turn the ignition switch to RUN with the engine off.

3. Turn the headlamp control from off to parking lamps 4 times within 3 seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light will begin to flash. The double horn chirp and flashing TPMS warning light indicate that the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue flashing throughout the matching procedure.

4. Start with the driver's side front tire. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire's air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, confirming that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position. If you do not hear the confirming single horn chirp, you will need to start over with step number one.

5. Proceed to the passenger's side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 4.

6. Proceed to the passenger's side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 4.

7. Proceed to the driver's side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 4.

8. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the driver's side rear tire, check to see if the TPMS warning light is still flashing. If yes, turn the ignition switch to LOCK to exit the sensor matching process. If the TPMS warning light is not flashing, the 5 minute time limit has passed and you will need to start the process over beginning with Step 1.

9. Set all four tires to their normal air pressure.

**You will have 2 minutes to match the first tire/wheel position, and 5 minutes overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer than 2 minutes, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than 5 minutes to match all 4 tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over**
 

Sib

Member
Sep 6, 2014
3,446
:bump:

Ok so instead of starting a new thread, I'll just add to this one, seeing that my questions goes along with the matching process.

I have rotated my tires a handful of times and just never bothered with the matching process until now, and I have never had any leaks/issues so I was never concerned with it.

But the other day I rotated my tires, and figured I would do the matching process. I did it like the Owner's Manual said to do, which is exactly how @dmanns67 said to do it above. However, when I turned the lights to parking and back 4 times, I heard the two horn chirps, but the TPMS light did not illuminate on the dash. I did this about 5 or 6 times and nothing.

Any ideas? I know the light works because occasionally when it's cold outside, and my truck sits in the cold for a long period of time, I will get the warning light on the dash and my DIC will say "Check Tire Pressure" until I drive a little and the air in the tire warms up. Then the warnings go away.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Try it anyway even if the light doesn't come on. Could be a difference in years. If you get the horn chirps, it should still be in learning mode.
 
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northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,310
WNY
Try it anyway even if the light doesn't come on. Could be a difference in years. If you get the horn chirps, it should still be in learning mode.
Yes...It doesn't always go as the book says, strange as it seems. Mine will not give me the beeps at the end to signal a successful relearn but, in actuallity it has ??
The newer GMs require a scan tool to relearn, can't just let air out. Had to spend the $70 (for the tool)to do the wife's Equinox...Mike.
 
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Sib

Member
Sep 6, 2014
3,446
Try it anyway even if the light doesn't come on. Could be a difference in years. If you get the horn chirps, it should still be in learning mode.

Yes...It doesn't always go as the book says, strange as it seems. Mine will not give me the beeps at the end to signal a successful relearn but, in actuallity it has ??
The newer GMs require a scan tool to relearn, can't just let air out. Had to spend the $70 (for the tool)to do the wife's Equinox...Mike.

Thanks fellas. I'll try it tomorrow and will report back. :tiphat:
 
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dmanns67

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
:bump:
However, when I turned the lights to parking and back 4 times, I heard the two horn chirps, but the TPMS light did not illuminate on the dash. I did this about 5 or 6 times and nothing.

I have experienced the same thing you described, but light or not light on the dash has not affected my ability to do a relearn after rotating tires.

I am not sure how everyone else does the relearn after tire rotation, but I let air out of each tire until I hear the horn chirp. After you turn the selector switch back and forth 4 times and hear the double horn chirp, go ahead and start the relearn process. As long as you hear a horn chirp after letting air out of each tire, the relearn process is OK.

The newer GMs require a scan tool to relearn, can't just let air out. Had to spend the $70 (for the tool)to do the wife's Equinox...Mike.

I figured this would eventually be the route of newer cars.
 
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Rich-MarionOH

Member
Jun 20, 2014
8
Marion, OH
What if I just replace one TPMS sensor, the right front one? Do I have to go thru the complete relearn process or is there a way to find just the one I am changing?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I believe that a full relearn is necessary unless, possibly, you have the appropriate scan tool to do it.
 
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dmanns67

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
What if I just replace one TPMS sensor, the right front one? Do I have to go thru the complete relearn process or is there a way to find just the one I am changing?

With the manual relearn process, you do not have the option to do just one tire. You would have to do all (4) tires even if you only replaced one TPMS sensor, but this is not a big deal as it only takes a couple minutes for the manual process.

You can go to a tire shop and they can use their scan tool to relearn the new sensor. Should only run you $10-$20 for them to do the relearn. I personally like the free method :yes:

I believe that a full relearn is necessary unless, possibly, you have the appropriate scan tool to do it.

You sir are correct.
 
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Rich-MarionOH

Member
Jun 20, 2014
8
Marion, OH
With the manual relearn process, you do not have the option to do just one tire. You would have to do all (4) tires even if you only replaced one TPMS sensor, but this is not a big deal as it only takes a couple minutes for the manual process.

OK, so I replaced the one bad sensor (driver side front) and did the relearn process as given in the manual. Got the initial chirps plus a chirp after each of the first 3 tires. Got no chirp after the last tire (driver side, rear) and the TPMS light is still illuminated. Did this several times with the same results BUT all tires are now showing pressure readings. Just can't get rid of the TPMS indicator light. And I was WELL within the 5 minute time limit. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Rich
 

dmanns67

Original poster
Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
OK, so I replaced the one bad sensor (driver side front) and did the relearn process as given in the manual. Got the initial chirps plus a chirp after each of the first 3 tires. Got no chirp after the last tire (driver side, rear) and the TPMS light is still illuminated. Did this several times with the same results BUT all tires are now showing pressure readings. Just can't get rid of the TPMS indicator light. And I was WELL within the 5 minute time limit. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Rich

I had that happen to me a couple years ago when I switched to my winter tires. No matter how many time I did the relearn, the light would not go away. I ended up taking my TB to a local tire shop and had them use their wireless relearn tool. Once they used their tool, the light went out. Relearn ran me around $15.
 
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l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
Am I the only person that has experienced the following:

Doing the manual re-learn process just as the manual says. Some days, the tires seem eager to 'learn', and you get your confirmation toots right away. Other days, everything seems stubborn and you don't get your beeps at all.

What is going on with that? The process seems pretty straight forward yet in practice, it can be a pain. Is there something unintuitive going on with the electronics that causes it to work better sometimes and not others?

The last time I tried programming mine, the three that were working normally sycned right up, and it was only the 4th one that was having a problem. Today I couldn't get any of them to sync up in a timely manor. I tried twice and only got confirmation beeps after I had given up and started to re-top off my pressure and put everything away. Which did make me laugh at least.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I've had that happen and still do. I would do the relearn and after the last one, I don't get the confirmation double-toot but it did work. It's a finicky system for sure. And I seem to have better luck with my $20 Amazon trigger tool than the Autel $200 one.
 

l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
What about the individual toots for the individual tires?

Is there some other confirmation you also get? Does the dash do anything identifiable the moment each tire is "learned"? Something I could stick someone in the drivers seat and have them call out, if the toots are being stubborn?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
What about the individual toots for the individual tires?

Is there some other confirmation you also get? Does the dash do anything identifiable the moment each tire is "learned"? Something I could stick someone in the drivers seat and have them call out, if the toots are being stubborn?
I'd get the individual toots but not the final double toot so ??? But they all register. No message on the DIC or light.
 

l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
I tried again today. I got the initial double toot but the dash light never started flashing. I tried deflating a few tires anyway and no luck, no additional toots. It's like the outside temp needs to be at a certain level for this to work or something crazy like that.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
I tried again today. I got the initial double toot but the dash light never started flashing. I tried deflating a few tires anyway and no luck, no additional toots. It's like the outside temp needs to be at a certain level for this to work or something crazy like that.
Just to confirm things as I think in the past (or some other thread), you posted that even a tire garage couldn't get a relearn done. So, you are now able to at least cause a relearn some times, right?

Also to confirm, you are getting a flashing "low tire pressure" warning with any key on event (ie. key off to key on) for a bit and then the light goes solid? This is what you are trying to fix? NOTE: this is different that having a solid light at key on.

One other thing, my understanding is you don't really have to start at the drivers tire and go around. That is for "book keeping" BUT in your case that you have listed above (indicating you can get the first three done but not the last), start at the troubled one first ... assuming you can even get into the learn sequence which you also seem to have issues with. Once done that one, do the others to hopefully get to the end result. See that works any better.
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
my understanding is you don't really have to start at the drivers tire and go around. That is for "book keeping

MY understanding is whatever wheel sensor is first learned will be saved as the front left, no matter where it actually is on the vehicle. Second learned will be registered to memory as the front right, and so on.

So while one may go round the vehicle any way they choose, the vehicle will not show the correct location of both pressure or alarms if the stated order is not done at relearn.
 

l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
Wellll, I didn't really want to hijack this thread but I guess since you asked. . . .

But yes I bought a set of 'no programming needed' TPMS sensors. The tire shop wasn't able to get them to work at all. I suspect they were trying to program them first, and that is what failed.

So a few days later, I fully let all the air out of all my tires, Made a legit lowrider out of it. Then pumped them back up with the worlds slowest 12v pump. This is supposed to be how you reset the sensors.

Then I tried the manual relearn process. Pull the E brake, flip the lights 4 times, get a double toot, then let air out of the tires until you get a single beep. I did this a few times in a few different orders and was able to get every tire to program except the front right.

So then laid in bed for two weeks with covid and then got back into action. I figured, let me at least reset the problem tire again. So I popped the core, fully drained the tire. Then pumped it back up.

That leads me to where I am now. I tried to reprogram them yesterday and didn't get anywhere at all. E brake, four clicks of the light, I got the double toot. But no sensor would 'learn' and the light on the dash never blinked after the double toot. It blinked before, like as soon as I put the ignition on, I get TPMS errors and the flashing light. But once I put it in learn mode, it was solid lit and none of the sensors would 'learn' .

So one scenario here is that the tire place was trying to 'program' a 'no program needed' sensor and didn't actually try a learn. The other scenario is that my computer is wacky and sometimes it just won't go in to learn mode. And there are others, maybe they overfilled the tires while mounting and so maybe resetting the sensors is what fixed them, but maybe now I'm having a different issue.

I don't know but the state I'm at right now is that I get TPMS and flashing indicator light as soon as the ignition goes on. And when entering learn mode, I got the double toot but the dash indicator never started flashing, and I was unable to program anything.
It's like it behaves differently every day I work on it.

If I can get learn mode to WORK again, I can either get all four working and be done with this. Or I can verify that one of the sensors does not work, and I can have them send me a replacement. But I'm stuck right now unable to do either :sadcry:
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
ok.... that's does sound "ugly" BUT at least at one time you were able to get "relearning" going. So I don't have much to add directly, I never reprogram mine as I just remember which tire was which when it is moved... :smile: further, when it alarms, I check all tires manually and address the situation there after.

So my next suggestion would be for you disconnect your LGM... give it a rest and see if that changes anything once you plug it back in as I believe the LGM is the "wireless contact point" for the sensors among other things.

Further, I had problems with signally when I was using bluetooth stuff in the area (ie. phone type things). Ensure your phone isn't around.

and that's leads me to the last thing based on your recent "new information". I think that you might have a "babbling" sensor that is basically continually sending bad info.... this is assuming from the information you provided that you indeed were doing something like I had suggested (order of sensor learning doesn't matter) and have found basically a particular sensor is at issue.

As you surmize, it possible that during tire filling that perhaps the tire was "heavy filled"... tire centers usually push a large amount of air with a "clamp on" air supply then let out area there after to reach proper fill. This is just a guess and I am not sure it is fixable as I suspect the "pressure diaphragm" is probably quite small. You might try opening the valve and leaving the tire at atmospheric pressure for a long period (ie. 24 hours) to see if that helps.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
What is the LGM? Also where is it, and how do I unplug it?

Worthy of note:

There are usually TWO fuses for the LGM. They are usually both under the rear seat.

Leave a window open if you pull these fuses to be certain you don't lock yourself out of the vehicle because with the LGM not powered your keyfobs will NOT work!!
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
By now you ALL know I'm going to keep hammering away, showing what is possible with some custom setups. :wink:

Custom PIDs with OBD Fusion.....

View attachment 107278
OK... great. My brain hurts now, what is the formula for the conversion and what are the chances that the pid exists in my 2008. My torque awaits with baited breath. I haven't looked at your running "pid post" in the scanner section (i think).
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
OK... great. My brain hurts now, what is the formula for the conversion and what are the chances that the pid exists in my 2008. My torque awaits with baited breath. I haven't looked at your running "pid post" in the scanner section (i think).

Wellll,,, there is always a "thing", isn't there?

You have a 2008. The 2008 and later have TWO vehicle data networks, the old familiar single wire Class 2 serial data SAE J1850 VPW on OBD2 pin #2, PLUS the ISO 15765-4 CANBUS on OBD2 pins 6 & 14.

Since I have no access to a 2008 or newer I cannot test this out to determine how to proceed.

Your 2008 ECM/PCM uses BOTH of the vehicles two networks.

I don't know which protocol is it that Torque connects to your 2008 with by default. The OBD2 adapters can only connect to ONE protocol at a time.

IF Torque Pro connects to your ECM with the Class 2 serial data bus then you should be able to read PIDs from the LGM, BCM, etc., etc.

But if Torque uses the CANBUS network all you can get are transmission or engine PIDs.

There is a way to set Torque to use a specific protocol but again, I cannot test this out without having a 2008 in front of me.

Anyway, these are the PIDs for pressure..

Mode & PID:
Left Front:22248E01
Right Front:22248F01
Left Rear:22249101
Right Rear:22249001

Equation: A

Header:6CA2F1
 
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TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
OK... great. My brain hurts now, what is the formula for the conversion and what are the chances that the pid exists in my 2008. My torque awaits with baited breath. I haven't looked at your running "pid post" in the scanner section (i think).


Well I had to go back to your post in 2014 about getting trans temp and current gear to work in Torque Pro There I see my answer. Torque Pro is using the CANBUS network in your 2008. The evidence is that you had to use a trans temp method that uses the header 7E0 and that is canbus.

Since Torque is only talking canbus, PIDs for anything other than engine or transmission won't work with your current setup.

It 'may' be possible to alter this but I cannot recommend to others to try things I cannot test out myself first. Too much risk in fouling up what is now working for you!
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
No problem... I was able to solve my "brain problem" with a "stiff drink"... :smile: My "question" was more about future info as opposed to an actual need although 1008com might find the information very useful. Actual, I think one of the other posts that you did might be useful where you wrote the id in (might have been mooseman maybe).

Having said that, my 2008 is still on originals which are probably close to their lifetime so it is likely I may travel thru this area sooner than later... hence my interest in the threads.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
Having said that, my 2008 is still on originals which are probably close to their lifetime so it is likely I may travel thru this area sooner than later... hence my interest in the threads.

My 2005 Yukon is also on the original TPMS sensors. That is what led me to learn how to bypass the relearn procedure and simply write in the sensor ID numbers in the proper memory blocks. I could not complete a relearn due to the low battery levels I assume.

It is neccesary however to have the ID numbers. Mine were already in the system so all I had to do was read them out and re-write them in the order I had rotated them to.

Mine are operating in low battery mode as reported by my Autel AP200.

There is a free terminal app that enables one to read out the stored ID numbers and then write them back to the proper vehicle locations.

The trouble with using Torque and such apps on a truck with both Class 2 serial data AND canbus is Torque wants to connect to the engine computer. So if you set it to connect to the older class 2 serial data network Torque 'fails' to connect because it is looking for the engine computer and doesn't really care about connecting with all those other modules on the older Class 2 network.
 
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l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
Well I had to go back to your post in 2014 about getting trans temp and current gear to work in Torque Pro There I see my answer. Torque Pro is using the CANBUS network in your 2008. The evidence is that you had to use a trans temp method that uses the header 7E0 and that is canbus.
Ok kind of off topic but I've always wanted to get trans temp out of my 2008 through ODBFusion, mainly for use when I'm towing. Got a link to this thread in question?
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
Ok kind of off topic but I've always wanted to get trans temp out of my 2008 through ODBFusion, mainly for use when I'm towing. Got a link to this thread in question?

Post #24 in the thread linked below is where I saw my answer.



I must note these were early days of folks trying to figure these things out and there is a raft of errors primarily in equations/formulas all over the web as users just threw stuff at the wall to see what stuck.
 
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l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
I've had some new happenings in my TPMS battle.

But rather than fully hijack this thread, I'll ink over to my own TPMS thread with the details:
 
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l008com

Member
Feb 19, 2016
886
Massachusetts
Anyway, these are the PIDs for pressure..

Mode & PID:
Left Front:22248E01
Right Front:22248F01
Left Rear:22249101
Right Rear:22249001

Equation: A

Header:6CA2F1

So I tried this today but it didn't like the header "6CA2F1". It gave me an error saying it was invalid and wouldn't let me add it.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
So I tried this today but it didn't like the header "6CA2F1". It gave me an error saying it was invalid and wouldn't let me add it.


No it won't. In OBD Fusion it takes a special character prefix to enable entering custom headers. And on top of that these PIDs won't work in OBD Fusion or Torque Pro for the reasons given in posts #27, & #28.

Here is why,,,, When you connect to your vehicle with either Torque Pro or OBD Fusion you might see a message like "connecting to ECM (or ECU)". In the background the app is sending out an OBD2 message requesting the list of SAE Standard PIDs supported. These are primarily PIDs for emmisions related parameters. As such it is the engine control computer that answers this request. The apps, OBDFusion and Torque use this reply to determine that they are indeed connected to the vehicle. Without that response the apps would report that they cannot connect to the ECU/ECM.

Now your 2008 has two networks with two different protocols and the one with the engine on it only connects to the engine and transmission. So when OBDFusion connects to that network it cannot see or communicate with all the other modules in the truck. This means you cannot get any data from the TCCM, the HVAC , the EBCM (abs), the BCM, door modules, liftgate module, radio, etc.



Now there IS a way to tell Torque and OBD Fusion what network protocol to connect to but if we set it to connect to the older serial data network where all the other modules I listed are then it is likely that when Torque or OBD Fusion try to connect to the vehicle with that request for supported SAE standard PIDs the app will not get the answer it is looking for because the engine is on the other network, not the one we are now connected to.

I said earlier that I cannot test out this premise fully as I don't have access to a 2008 or 2009. In theory at least, GM "could" have programmed the engine computer to respond to that query on BOTH of the vehicle networks since the engine control computer is the ONE and ONLY computer connected to BOTH of the two networks. But I suspect that they did not program it that way.
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Leading up to all of the previous instructions... If it comes down to cases and performing the R&R of any TPMS Sensors becomes necessary... THIS Clever VOP (Video Original Poster) demonstrates his ingenious idea for gaining access to the Errant Tire Pressure Sensors WITHOUT having to visit either a Dealership or a Pro Tire Shop in order to Break The Tire Beads Loose and gain access to these devices inside of each Rim:

No Exotic Equipment Required...

Autel TS-501 TPMS Programmer via Amazon:


Autel TS-408 Programmer ON SALE: $127.00 (April 16th, 2023) on Amazon:



Autel TS-508 TPMS Programmer $200.00 via Amazon:



Lisle Model #18810 Valve Core Tool @ $22.00 on Amazon:


LISLETIREVALVETOOL18810.jpg51AMXrh6J-L._AC_SL1032_.jpg71vCs3puANL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Lisle Model #5190 Tire Core R&R Tool @ $9.17 on Amazon:


71eoGd+o9TL._AC_SL1500_.jpg91EiBtGuhLL._AC_SL1500_.jpg51bmIiCxNuL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Eric "O" from SMA (South Main Auto) shows "The PRO-SHOP" side of TPMS Programming using the $200.00 Autel TS-508 during his Un-Boxing and "In-Wheel Install" Shop Demo of this Gear:


Here he shows how to program the Positions of where the Tires are located if Rotating them ...with or without using any Fancy Tools:


Even Paul "Scanner" Danner has issues with TPMS from time to time:

Thanks... Autel = FTW!


Getting the Wrong TPMS Sensor Warning on GM Vehicles...? Yup...:


What is the Correct TIre Order for Proper TPMS Resets on GM Vehicles?

LF, RF, RR, RF


NOTE: The Autel TS-508 can Read practically any TPMS Sensor regardless of Brand-Make-Model... However... it can ONLY Copy (Clone) Old TPMS Sensors' Data over to Brand New Proprietary Autel 1 TPMS Sensors, thus avoiding having to Re-Program the PCM-ECM.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The only issue I have with this is that you have to use THEIR programmable TPMS sensors. I have the TS401 which does not program sensors but does everything I need it to. In fact, I just used it today to do the relearn on the TB when I switched to the summer tires. It reports back serial numbers and battery state.

With the problems that another member had with the programmable ones, I'm not of fan of them.
 
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